You mentioned hissing sound earlier on. If the level of noise is low, these should go away after running in. The level of noise should not be too high. I only know as a general rule legs of discrete components should be kept as short as possible but have never personally heard the noise induced as a result of long ones. Perhaps other forumers who have experience in this area may like to comment further.

wow nice update Y.C.
i have yet to start with the final stage...haha, lazy nowadays...

ijan , let the t-amp run in for a while

monkey king, mine was runing fine with car battery for months, but i did connect a few big cap near the supply of t-amp just to smoothen the voltage.

it's not burned or anything. doesn't even heat up or end up in smokes. the chip and circuit looks absolutely fine without any burn marks.

the only thing is, the chips are now shorted to ground. the input have a connection to B+ and GND. both boards exhibit the same simptom. considered dead.

Can't you 'unshorted' it?
Just wondering, how does that happened?

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Dec 20 2008, 07:52 PM

Finally manage to find the problem, it is because of the loosen connections of C22 and 27. In the process to secure it, i accidentally pull off the whole base (I think because of reheating multiple times). I need to glue it back on to secure it in the original location even the base is out, and use jumper wire to connect to where is suppose to be. Finally it is singing again on my test speaker, sound a bit harsh, clinical and still a bit of hissing. Will try to let it burn in for some time and see how it is.

paskal, in my opinion, this little thing is quite hardy, I sent a clipping signal to it and C8 smoke and the heat melt the solder lead! I solder it back and it still sing. I think the IC will burn only if you connect the power supply wrong.

kww, that is the spirit of diy audio, keep it up.

I am happy for you that your T-amp starts to sing finally; do allow it some time to run in.

next is to find a casing that can fit it, right now too many wire hanging around and the components are all expose unsecure.

ah..finally got my Alps Blue Velve pot..do a quick soldering and tested for 30mins..the sound is much more better than JP pots. I have bought my casing and will do some drilling after Christmas and then send to repaint

few holidays ahead

gona get the tannoy up and running with t-amp for my pc

picture as bellow


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Oh really?.. I've seen many commercial amps with JP type pots and they're just as great sounding. Its quite true that Alps blue have a more accurate (because its logarithmic type) and heavier feel that makes one think the sound has improved a lot. I too can fall for that.
I sometimes wonder who is Alps biggest consumer of this item as I've only seen this very very rarely in commercial amps.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Dec 25 2008, 12:34 PM

The Alps pots is not that heavy as compare to JP pots but it sure make a difference compare to those cheaper pots. I have an 10yrs++ Aura that is using Alps pots and it have never give me problem

The JP pots that I am using with the T-Amps and a few other amps sounds great.. will not change them for the time being

my unit is runing, my ear is so posion by multimedia speaker i cant get use to the highs at 1st,i hear no highs especialy im using a fullrange now....

i think t-amp will suits full range nicely as full range tents to loose out abit on the highs....

This post has been edited by xtorm: Dec 27 2008, 12:45 AM

xtorm,
its a matter of preferences and how your ears have been 'conditioned'... prolong your listening and you'll be ok soon!

*- this thread is almost 'dead' ler.. hehehe.. Happy Holidays T-Amp fans!

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Dec 27 2008, 12:53 AM

im getting use to it edi

listening to kiki dee concert which i copy from pcworks...........nice!!!

kiki dee?!! thats a good one!

I think its just a matter of pure luck as the pots I've bought from JP is always giving problem. I hate to buy spares as I've a bunch of other components left in the drawer and not being used. And for sure I will not bring a DMM to JP to buy parts

Since the T-amp is up and running now, its time to work on the casing..still thinking for the volume knob to use...

The casing seems to be the most difficult to source compared to all the other modding components...and I'm still stuck here. I absolutely refuse to start work on my TA2022 without acquiring a nice looking casing first.

I just got 1 of those alum casing from Nixie and plan to send it to be respray..maybe like Ipod bone white

nice, post the pic after respray.. gloss pearl white.. yummy..

or you can go anodized black... with 3mm diffused blue LED "on" indicator.

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Added on December 27, 2008, 2:01 pmwow, nice "surgical" job putting radial film caps into SMD 0805 solder pads..


This post has been edited by ar188: Dec 27 2008, 02:01 PM