Apart from the two caps, what minor mods can be done to further improve the sound? Getting bigger resistors/caps to replace those SMD will make the T-Amp look ugly
DIY T-Amp User V2, TA2020 AIR CORES!, ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DIY T-Amp User V2, TA2020 AIR CORES!, ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Nov 28 2008, 07:23 PM
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#1
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My second pot from JP fail again..1 channel is louder than the other unless I really crank up the volume that both will be balance. Now the T-Amp is left aside waiting for Alps pot to be in..
Apart from the two caps, what minor mods can be done to further improve the sound? Getting bigger resistors/caps to replace those SMD will make the T-Amp look ugly |
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Nov 28 2008, 11:01 PM
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#2
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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 28 2008, 08:25 PM) You're one unlucky bloke! I both all these pots from Jln Landak. 3 pots from RE, only 1 works. 1 from Nixie and doesn't last..ALPS is here in Malaysia but not with me I have bought many pots from JP.. so far they're ok. Guess I am lucky You gotta be careful where you buy stuffs in JP. My stuffs mostly from NIXIE. My next alternative choice would be MAPLIN. Now that your ALPS is on the way.. SMD replacement is no minor mod. Ugly or not, its not about looks, its about SQ. Its gonna be in a box/casing anyway. You worry about how your T-Amp looks? I will not get any box so soon as I have another project (CD63) that need to finish up. Therefore look is quite important when the amp is still naked. I will be bring this amp to test with my client (also hifi kaki) setup in Penang next month and I sure don't want to scare him away with all those resistor sticking out Added on November 28, 2008, 11:11 pm QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 28 2008, 09:19 PM) Mixed up parts sometimes happen.. Gabanyayaya, instead of multimeter, we should bring bro jazzy to buy parts from JP/JL(andak) Never brought my own DMM, but if you ask for it, they will lend you one. One shop even offered the DMM if I want to use.. Normally those cheap passive components, I will buy X2! Just for spares.. and stock up. So far I have been lucky.. I think for my case, it is quite difficult to measure with an analog multimeter. 50K pot and if there is a slight few hundred ohm diff, analog multimeter might not be able to detect it. The only DMM I got is Rapport and I sure won't bring it there as it will make me look like meter reading man from TNB Added on November 28, 2008, 11:15 pm QUOTE(bsl555 @ Nov 28 2008, 09:13 PM) Errr.. you can get unlucky on other components too..like other value resistors accidently mixed up with the actual values you want. Thats why I bring my own multimeter and magnifying glass. My eyesight ain't all that good nowadays. As mentioned before, the quality is so much diff during my college days...I wouldn't mind paying extra if the quality is good. Hope Farnell was like last time where to stock the parts locally.This post has been edited by cyl1000: Nov 28 2008, 11:15 PM |
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Nov 29 2008, 08:28 AM
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#3
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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 29 2008, 12:06 AM) I have several.. last bought from NIXIE at RM4.50 each! Now two has been used, one for Junior's T-Amp(buffered), one in my buffer pre-amp.. so far so good! Initially the pot from Nixie is ok but after sometime, the problem start. I've even tried a little contact cleaner (I thought my environment is very dirty |
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Nov 29 2008, 08:48 AM
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#4
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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Nov 29 2008, 12:44 AM) CYL, you sure are unlucky or been extremely critical of JP volume pots. Lai and I also bought ours from RE Spares but there is no problem so far. You already changed the input and power buffer caps? What caps did you opt for? How's the SQ so far? Actually the price I'm paying for JP/JL pots is too good to complain but when the pots keep failing, just imagine the frustration...though I'm unlucky with the ports but I'm lucky that I found T-amp If you feel the presence of discreet resistors and caps would make your T-amp board look ugly, you could instead opt for better grade SMDs from Vishay or others which are available at Farnell. Bsl is right that changing SMDs to discreet components would dirty up the sound and increase distortion figures. I would not be worried with that myself as that is exactly my aim here. Most critics of T-amp find it too clean-sounding and some of us here do know that absolute accuracy, neutrality and sounding clean could not be equated with musicality and ultimate music enjoyment. Tonal colour is important and should music lovers worry too much about dirty sound and distortion figures, many of them would not have ventured into "valves and vinyl". I am happy your friend got himself a T-amp too. One more guy converted, who is next? For the caps, I've use the recommended MKT1822 and Panasonic FC 470uF. The SQ, not really run in yet and it is left idle as the L+R channel is not balance now. For discrete upgrade, can you guys comment more on its sonic improvement? How much different does it make with SMD..Do you like it with discrete? Since its picking up noise, the result would be different for each of us...if it is not to our liking, hard to revert back unless spend another RM55 and time to run in the T-amp again... |
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Dec 2 2008, 11:31 PM
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#5
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I've just ordered 3pcs from Xtorm last few days
Looks like there will be more t-amp owner out there... |
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Dec 4 2008, 08:27 AM
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#6
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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 2 2008, 11:48 PM) cyl, due to the simplicity of the amp,there is not much to tweak unless you do something on its peripherals like pre/buffer and a nice casing like yours by the quantities bulked by xtorm, there are a number out there! They're forum shy I supposed! My T-Amp has no more progress. I have also stopped at my current buffer pre-amp which to me complements the T-Amp rather well.. whatever leftovers of sharpness/roughness in the sonics has been smoothened by the buffer pre-amp. Its totally so musical now... |
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Dec 5 2008, 06:53 PM
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#7
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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Dec 4 2008, 01:19 PM) My almost completed 3rd T-amp board (supposed to be with full discrete parts) which would eventually find its way into the casing of my 1st T-amp: It looks great but I was wondering you must have use some sort of "surgery" instrument to put up all these puzzles (caps) so close together [attachmentid=700344] As of now, there are only 2 SMDs remaining on the board: R7 and C5. R7: 8.2K 1W resistor, the discrete resistor from Farnell is ¼W and I don’t quite trust the JP resistor (I bought both). C5: 1.0uF capacitor. I’ve yet to figure out the placement of polarity of Panasonic cap for it. No specification from the schematics, this is output from pin 36 of TA2024 chip going to VDD. The T-amp board with full discrete components doesn’t look too ugly, ya? |
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Dec 24 2008, 08:50 AM
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#8
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ah..finally got my Alps Blue Velve pot..do a quick soldering and tested for 30mins..the sound is much more better than JP pots. I have bought my casing and will do some drilling after Christmas and then send to repaint
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Dec 25 2008, 02:21 PM
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#9
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QUOTE(bsl555 @ Dec 25 2008, 12:26 PM) Oh really?.. I've seen many commercial amps with JP type pots and they're just as great sounding. Its quite true that Alps blue have a more accurate (because its logarithmic type) and heavier feel that makes one think the sound has improved a lot. I too can fall for that. The Alps pots is not that heavy as compare to JP pots but it sure make a difference compare to those cheaper pots. I have an 10yrs++ Aura that is using Alps pots and it have never give me problem I sometimes wonder who is Alps biggest consumer of this item as I've only seen this very very rarely in commercial amps. |
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Dec 27 2008, 08:40 AM
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#10
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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 25 2008, 07:41 PM) The JP pots that I am using with the T-Amps and a few other amps sounds great.. will not change them for the time being I think its just a matter of pure luck as the pots I've bought from JP is always giving problem. I hate to buy spares as I've a bunch of other components left in the drawer and not being used. And for sure I will not bring a DMM to JP to buy parts Since the T-amp is up and running now, its time to work on the casing..still thinking for the volume knob to use... |
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Dec 27 2008, 12:58 PM
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#11
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QUOTE(March05 @ Dec 27 2008, 11:34 AM) The casing seems to be the most difficult to source compared to all the other modding components...and I'm still stuck here. I absolutely refuse to start work on my TA2022 without acquiring a nice looking casing first. I just got 1 of those alum casing from Nixie and plan to send it to be respray..maybe like Ipod bone white |
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Dec 28 2008, 06:21 PM
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#12
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QUOTE(ar188 @ Dec 27 2008, 01:41 PM) nice, post the pic after respray.. gloss pearl white.. yummy.. Thought of anodized but hard to get a good job done..send to a shop at sunway before but they just did a "chin chai" job. As for power LED, thought of getting a circular LED light pipe to put around the volume knob. So far, no luck yet from Farnell, RS or Futurlec . I will have to get these parts ready before I can proceed to drill and then spray.or you can go anodized black... with 3mm diffused blue LED "on" indicator. Added on December 28, 2008, 6:26 pm QUOTE(March05 @ Dec 27 2008, 02:16 PM) Which one did you get? I went there early last month to get one, but they had sold out the RM28 one. I picked up the almost all the other parts....RCA sockets & the binding posts (I got really slimfit ones! I got the big casing measuring 253x167x87. Hmm...what do you mean by the slimfit RCA n binding post? Have you tested the pots? Which shop you buy from? One of my friend JP pot is failing So I only need to order the Vishay/ERO MKT 1813 2.2uF 63V caps from Farnell, and it's just the casing that's missing. cyl1000, please show us the pics after the respraying. I might copy you. BTW, anyone can help to source for a circular LED light pipe??? This post has been edited by cyl1000: Dec 28 2008, 06:26 PM |
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Dec 29 2008, 12:50 AM
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#13
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Dec 29 2008, 12:57 AM
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#14
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QUOTE(ar188 @ Dec 28 2008, 07:09 PM) how does your circular LED light pipe look like? If you look at those midi hifi, some have lights illuminating form the volume knob (Y.C. JVC micro have it). I have attached a picture from another thread..looks something like this.you need LED or not? I got lots.. SMD white, blue etc.. Attached thumbnail(s) |
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Dec 30 2008, 08:48 AM
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#15
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QUOTE(ar188 @ Dec 29 2008, 02:00 AM) thanks for the pic, maybe the inner knob holder (to clip and hold to the pot's fluted or geared shaft) is made of transparent plastic material? and can be used to act as "light guide" I can't wait and have started on the casing. I have drill most of the holes for the RCA, volume control, speaker binding..for power switch, thinking to use round (push in to ON) or rectangular (push up/down). For the volume knob with LED, I've got a big knob from an old donor amp (Denon) and most probably drill 4 holes in casing but hide inside the knob. Use VR to adjust the LED brightness and hopefully will get the effect. |
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Dec 30 2008, 06:25 PM
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#16
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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 11:58 AM) VR as in voltage regulator? hee...hee...I'd not want to construct a voltage regulator for a few LEDs 3V is what u need depending in LED types and the brightness that u want... Added on December 30, 2008, 6:28 pm QUOTE(ar188 @ Dec 30 2008, 02:22 PM) Jazzy is right that it will not work proper..just for me it is "proper" enough for my application..Just got the Tocos pot (VR Added on December 30, 2008, 6:32 pm QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 02:27 PM) pot would not work proper.. Took out some pots from an old Denon amp with 250K and I think will be sufficient to dim the LEDs. Got some big transformers with shielding but the voltage is too high for t-amp..I have tried that! a variable voltage regulator, may be .. a 0 to 5V would be 'workable'.. with the necessary current limiting resistor, that is! This post has been edited by cyl1000: Dec 30 2008, 06:32 PM |
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Dec 30 2008, 06:51 PM
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#17
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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 06:38 PM) Actually I cannibalize a Denon and Onkyo amp yesterday and got some parts out to use. I have change one of the pot for my friend's ailling JP pot. These pot still work well and I'm confident that I wont encounter same problem as JP pot (maybe I'm in bad luck). As for the transformer, it looks big and "solid" and would be a waste to throw it away..the smoothing caps is rated 50V, so I think the transformer secondary voltage should be around 40V?? Lets see if there is any use for other future projects or just keep in store... |
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Dec 30 2008, 07:12 PM
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#18
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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 06:53 PM) ar188, Will have to wait till I finish with the t-amp casing and also another t-amp with discrete... I need some! Some blue ones would be nice! This is for my 'new' amp.. Added on December 30, 2008, 6:56 pmcyl1000, a 40V tranny would be a good candidate to power a GainClone! Added on December 30, 2008, 7:14 pm QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 07:00 PM) kww, I've seen some China Belden too I have seen belden and canare in JP but not mogami. I need to make a few interconnects too.. time to drop by JP This post has been edited by cyl1000: Dec 30 2008, 07:14 PM |
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Feb 1 2009, 10:46 AM
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#19
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Hi guys, Gong Xi Fa Cai..been busy with my newborn baby and now only finish 90% of my T-amp in a proper casing..attached is the picture (taken with camera phone, not so clear). It is spray painted in champion white (that is the color code I was told) as my friend do not have the pearl white which I initially planned for. I've not touch up the power button yet.. For the blue LED at volume knob, its a bit too dim, maybe have to get a brighter blue LED as I thought the low brightness type is sufficient...
Attached thumbnail(s) |
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Feb 1 2009, 11:30 AM
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#20
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QUOTE(LittleGhost @ Feb 1 2009, 11:14 AM) No..send to Honda workshop and they use the Type R white....but I really would prefer pearl white...maybe add in a red color line at the volume knob would look sportier Added on February 1, 2009, 11:43 am QUOTE(milen007 @ Feb 1 2009, 11:28 AM) nice touch. is that the aluminium case? where do you get it? i saw one guys sell it on ebay, been thinking bout that but havent pull the trigger Bought the alum case from Nixie. The difficult part is to get a nice volume knob so I salvage from an old Onkyo amp..but I still need to get allen screw and painted it white to replace those ugly philips screw..This post has been edited by cyl1000: Feb 1 2009, 11:43 AM |
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