Further update to the sound of my T-amp with full discrete components: A full week has elapsed since I completed the modification; the sound of it now varies very substantially to when it was newly done. Who were arguing that amplifiers need no running in?

Okay, back to how it sounds now. I have used much bigger caps of Vishay Roederstein MKT1813 2.2uF 250V in the input stage and Vishay BC 1000pF 400V in the output biasing stage and a result of this is my T-amp sounds very much smoother and fuller. (I like MKT1813 2.2uF 63V caps a lot and whatever they do to the sound, the effects of these bigger 250V ones are even more pronounced. Monkey King only used an adjective to describe them: 'goosebumps' to which I totally agree). Absolute speed is just a tad slower compared to my other units of T-amp with SMDs or even Jazzy’s unit where a substantial lot of SMDs were replaced with discrete components. I have not installed any additional PSU cap(s) so as to maintain the same level of 'micro details' and overall balance of sound. I thought its timing now is almost perfect. Bsl has commented in this thread recently that replacing SMDs with discrete components will induce noise, distortion and make the T-amp sound 'dirty'. I think he is right but whatever noise induced is certainly not audible (although I must admit the T-amp is less clean and clinical-sounding now) and could the distortion be the 'even-order harmonic distortion' which are pleasing to our ears? Yes, you got me correctly, I am inferring that my T-amp with full discrete components (without a single SMD on board) is sounding pretty close to a valve (tube) amplifier not only in its smoothness, warmth and micro dynamics but also with its timing gotten right, lots of rhythmic bounce and sufficient bass and bass weight we could possibly seek from an amplifier.

And I believe I am certainly not the only guy to have raved that the T-amp sounds pretty close to a valve amp as many others have actually indicated their preference of T-amps over their other exotic valve amplifiers they also owned. Hmmm… life is certainly good to me.


This post has been edited by Y.C.: Dec 11 2008, 11:32 PM

:thumb:
Great update Y.C.! Just when we thought things could not be any better!
Life is certainly good!

Hi YC, thank for your components. I spend the whole day on t-amp yesterday. Check my old equipment, check the discrete components from you and my left over from other project that done years ago, went to JP to get the balance that i don't have. Putting it piece by piece until 2am this morning. I just test for functionality but not yet connect to my bookshelf speaker yet. No smoke come out, got sound to testing speaker. Tomorrow will find time to do more testing. I do hear hissing after the upgrade, will test further.

Here is some pictures.

This post has been edited by kww: Dec 12 2008, 11:41 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)

kww,
pretty good work there! .. although it looks like those components are like after being hit by a tsunami! It is not the looks that matters, its the sound!

Do report after your listening session!

You T-amp modders are really scary.

I'm not putting my T-amp through that kind of surgery!!!!!!

Heh!.. their boards cost only 5 meals. Its perhaps busting it up won't hurt the pocket to acquire another one for another hack session.

Actually there is an add on board holding the C14, 15 18 and 19. That is really messy wire at the back of it as I am too tired to cut to correct length and twist it.

I think is fun to work on and give some satisfaction. At least I don't see white smoke or dead.

jazzy, thanks for the 'tsunami' complement, i really don't know how to put so many components with limited space. I saw most of you put it straight but i think it is harder to work on as compare to tilt it a bit. that give more space for my big 60W soldering iron and my clumsy hand.

bsl is right, it is cheap to work on and try out. I listen for a week before modding, I think this little thing is quite clean and accurate. If it is good i will order another and get better components for it. Another hell of the day.

For me, it's not the money.....I just can't stand the sight of too much molten solder.

kww,
I meant it when I said it was 'good work'! I did on mine, I know how hard it is as we're working on a small board meant for SMDs! Must have an articulate and rock steady hands and nerve to do it!

My hat to you as you're using a HUGE 60 watter!

The real 'tsunami' is more on the SQ later on! Once you heard this version, you'll never look back..

Welcome to the club!

my germany made Ansmann travel adapter decided that 12V isn't enough and gave 30V to the board.
and in the process burned 2 of my boards.

it's branded for god's sake. wtf

paskal,
Your travel adapter 'decides' 30V? How come? A converter you mean?

yeah. i've told (and set) it to 12V. and then it decides to gave out 30V instead.

Kesian... you know what to do with 'disobedient' adapter, right?
So, you got your T-Amp running proper, now?

before this, yes. i got one board under extensive mod process so that one can't be use currently. and that one is the only working chip i've got with me right now.
so now i don't have any working setup. it burned 2 of my boards demmit. that adapter is now history.

any of you guys would be kind enough to get me one of those Meanwell and ship it to me? would be much appreciated..

paskal, how badly burnt is it?

Pardon my lack of electronics knowhow...but I see this smd capacitor C5 in the 12v+ circuit leading to the TA2022 ic. Wouldn't this burn out first?

no, caps dun burn. they die But it wont protect crap.

Just wired my T-AMP after...ntah ho wmany months, finally baru mau on since im fcuked up with GC not having proper psu n casing..so there lie my naked tamp with all the necessary mods i deem necessary only, non-superlative.

Impression, compared to LM4766 sub-par GainClone that i haf been using, the T-AMP has SIGNIFICANTLY more detail, leaner mids, however less soundstage and low-end extension, its what i would consider BRIGHT. Not really my cup of tea..yet..temporary use till i get my crappy GC online, then ill do sumthing about the T-AMP.

But hell, ITS FREAKING SMALL!!

i burned one of my board as well while trying to connect it to car battery.

bloody burn chip smells like buncho watercolour

u guys haf to be extra careful, most power supply/adaptor are not up to standard voltage, they haf the no-load voltage output and full load voltage output, sum manufacturer will state no-load voltage out, sum will say full-load voltage out. since the tamp use that lil power, it usually use almost to no-load full voltage, unregulated adaptor will full blow ~15V eventhough rated at 12V. car battery, high capacity, full charge out ~14++V of voltage with extremely high output current.

If u read technical info on the t-amp, max in voltage is strictly 13.2V, so u guys go over the border liao. Funny thing sumthing as advance as the T-AMP with digital filter dun haf over-volt protection...

Neways, seems like my current hiFi setup cannot even see the smoke on my headphone setup...

kww, from the pictures your T-amp mod looks fine to me. How is the sound now? Share with us?

paskal and Monkey King, my regrets that your T-amp boards are ruined by the charger/car battery.

There is a lot of noise, i think is because of long connection for C14, 15 18 and 19. I check all the connection, is all secure. In the process to relocate the cap i broke my desoldering sucker. Ordering one in farnell now, don't trust jalan pasar thing any more.