my germany made Ansmann travel adapter decided that 12V isn't enough and gave 30V to the board.
and in the process burned 2 of my boards.

it's branded for god's sake. wtf

paskal,
Your travel adapter 'decides' 30V? How come? A converter you mean?

yeah. i've told (and set) it to 12V. and then it decides to gave out 30V instead.

Kesian... you know what to do with 'disobedient' adapter, right?
So, you got your T-Amp running proper, now?

before this, yes. i got one board under extensive mod process so that one can't be use currently. and that one is the only working chip i've got with me right now.
so now i don't have any working setup. it burned 2 of my boards demmit. that adapter is now history.

any of you guys would be kind enough to get me one of those Meanwell and ship it to me? would be much appreciated..

paskal, how badly burnt is it?

Pardon my lack of electronics knowhow...but I see this smd capacitor C5 in the 12v+ circuit leading to the TA2022 ic. Wouldn't this burn out first?

no, caps dun burn. they die But it wont protect crap.

Just wired my T-AMP after...ntah ho wmany months, finally baru mau on since im fcuked up with GC not having proper psu n casing..so there lie my naked tamp with all the necessary mods i deem necessary only, non-superlative.

Impression, compared to LM4766 sub-par GainClone that i haf been using, the T-AMP has SIGNIFICANTLY more detail, leaner mids, however less soundstage and low-end extension, its what i would consider BRIGHT. Not really my cup of tea..yet..temporary use till i get my crappy GC online, then ill do sumthing about the T-AMP.

But hell, ITS FREAKING SMALL!!

i burned one of my board as well while trying to connect it to car battery.

bloody burn chip smells like buncho watercolour

u guys haf to be extra careful, most power supply/adaptor are not up to standard voltage, they haf the no-load voltage output and full load voltage output, sum manufacturer will state no-load voltage out, sum will say full-load voltage out. since the tamp use that lil power, it usually use almost to no-load full voltage, unregulated adaptor will full blow ~15V eventhough rated at 12V. car battery, high capacity, full charge out ~14++V of voltage with extremely high output current.

If u read technical info on the t-amp, max in voltage is strictly 13.2V, so u guys go over the border liao. Funny thing sumthing as advance as the T-AMP with digital filter dun haf over-volt protection...

Neways, seems like my current hiFi setup cannot even see the smoke on my headphone setup...

kww, from the pictures your T-amp mod looks fine to me. How is the sound now? Share with us?

paskal and Monkey King, my regrets that your T-amp boards are ruined by the charger/car battery.

There is a lot of noise, i think is because of long connection for C14, 15 18 and 19. I check all the connection, is all secure. In the process to relocate the cap i broke my desoldering sucker. Ordering one in farnell now, don't trust jalan pasar thing any more.

You mentioned hissing sound earlier on. If the level of noise is low, these should go away after running in. The level of noise should not be too high. I only know as a general rule legs of discrete components should be kept as short as possible but have never personally heard the noise induced as a result of long ones. Perhaps other forumers who have experience in this area may like to comment further.

wow nice update Y.C.
i have yet to start with the final stage...haha, lazy nowadays...

ijan , let the t-amp run in for a while

monkey king, mine was runing fine with car battery for months, but i did connect a few big cap near the supply of t-amp just to smoothen the voltage.

it's not burned or anything. doesn't even heat up or end up in smokes. the chip and circuit looks absolutely fine without any burn marks.

the only thing is, the chips are now shorted to ground. the input have a connection to B+ and GND. both boards exhibit the same simptom. considered dead.

Can't you 'unshorted' it?
Just wondering, how does that happened?

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Dec 20 2008, 07:52 PM

Finally manage to find the problem, it is because of the loosen connections of C22 and 27. In the process to secure it, i accidentally pull off the whole base (I think because of reheating multiple times). I need to glue it back on to secure it in the original location even the base is out, and use jumper wire to connect to where is suppose to be. Finally it is singing again on my test speaker, sound a bit harsh, clinical and still a bit of hissing. Will try to let it burn in for some time and see how it is.

paskal, in my opinion, this little thing is quite hardy, I sent a clipping signal to it and C8 smoke and the heat melt the solder lead! I solder it back and it still sing. I think the IC will burn only if you connect the power supply wrong.

kww, that is the spirit of diy audio, keep it up.

I am happy for you that your T-amp starts to sing finally; do allow it some time to run in.

next is to find a casing that can fit it, right now too many wire hanging around and the components are all expose unsecure.

ah..finally got my Alps Blue Velve pot..do a quick soldering and tested for 30mins..the sound is much more better than JP pots. I have bought my casing and will do some drilling after Christmas and then send to repaint

few holidays ahead

gona get the tannoy up and running with t-amp for my pc

picture as bellow


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