**very important that you guys dont mess up +VE and -VE terminal on the power supply, it will burn the chip!**

check out post no 3 for modding details, and pdf file to be donwloaded

t-amp? what izit?
its a type of amp produce by tripath, basically a much refine class-d amp.
there is ta2020, ta2024, ta2022, the 1 i brought in is ta2024, bang per buck you cant beat it
some good reading abt the ta2024
sonic impact T-amp which make this chip really famous!
http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/t-amp_e.html
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/sonicimpact/t.html
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/1/193312.html
________________________________________________________________________________________________

since most of you guys that ordered will be getitng thier parts by today, let me start off with some of my built 1st
doing it very slowy as this is my 1st built, altho simple but not femiliar with it.

i got 2 boards with me, 1 i will mod as i build the other completely stock wana compare the difference, altho im planing to run active setup with 4 channel.

stuff you need to start for those new to DIY

for 1 board you need
solder and lead ofcos
multimeter if available, else be very carefull with what you are doinglor...
some cable. cat 5e or cat6 are easily available and easy to work with
a housing that you like
on/off switch x1
power supply terminal x1 set (male and female)
rca female x 2 (1 black 1 red)
speaker terminal x 4 (2 black 2 red)
a stereo volume port

some parts are not shown here


speaker terminal.
pretty straight forward, solder 1 wire to each terminal pin, red goes to +ve and black goes to -ve


RCA female
the middle pin will be the signal, side pin for ground.



so which is which?
middle pin is ground
right pin is the right pair
left pin is the left pair
left and right channel will share the same ground


switch
when you buy a switch measure for connectivity when you off and on it.
for mine its the middle and top pin


volume
taken from ESP, well im not too sure how it works either , didnt check it out cos im not using it, so here's wat i got form ESP

hmm...same for 2 pot? sifu please advice so i can update, newbie here....



cabling
from RCA female to board input im using rs 485 data cable,
i gounded the shiled (connect it directly to 12v -ve)

the rs 485 cable

other then that it is cat6 for all the power supply wiring, and cat5e braided for speaker terminal, wanted cat6 but i dont have much as you can see i remove all the terminal and solder directly.

capacitor power supply are cheapo jalan pasar stuff, 2x 10000uf and farnell 3 x 3,300uf.
in the middle you can see a 40amp relay use in car. i believe those transfer voltage better then the switch alone.

Attached bellow is the evaluation board by tripath, our board follows tht design minus the input coil, most ta2024 amp follow this design

This post has been edited by xtorm: Oct 2 2008, 12:26 AM


Attached File(s)
 ta2024evaluation.pdf ( 630.75k ) Number of downloads: 372

i have complete building mine with input voltage cap, seems like the unit is working hotter then before...hm...

1 of the board is modded with M-Cap 2.2uf input cap, elna for audio 1000uf on the power supply rail to the chip, the sound is quieter and not as ear piercing compare to stock unit. it sounded softer tho, should be bcos it is much quieter now. im running my mids free air, btw, the tweeter frequency seem like its been pull down. too tired to set it up in my car edi, only gona do it tomorrow, i got a bad headache today and took MC, ended up doing the amp

how should i measure the inductor impedance? just by using the multimeter? im measuring 1.3-1.5ohm for those inductor, will a lower impedance inductor improve the sound? it should right? found some nice 0.07ohm unit in farnell but ferite core tho...no air core to be found

more listening, hmm some ape file sounded really nice while others crap, this amp really do relly alot on the source, garbage in garbage out

back of my amp


internal


left with tank cap and input cap modded, right stock.


initially i tot the box is so damn big, luckily im wrong, lots fo space for me to play with.


sorry abt the quality of the image, camera phone arent good with indoor lighting

This post has been edited by xtorm: Aug 16 2008, 08:19 PM


Attached File(s)
 ta2024evaluation.pdf ( 630.75k ) Number of downloads: 165

the modding guide, sorry if the write up is not good enough, i tried

BEGINER STAGE
-the easiest modding and makes the most difference will be the input capacitors, those thing covered in black
get the best capacitor you can afford here, higher value will enhance the bass and roll off the highs, 2.2uf and 3.3uf are recomended here, non polarize.

-change the supply capacitor, those 2 small caps in the middle just beside ta2024 chip, higher value will enhance the charity and bass, low esr caps are recomended here, panasonic FM seems to fit this job well, 3300uf 16v will be enough, change both of them ofcause...
here a review from 1 of the guru here on power supply cap


these mod will probably be enough for some, but i bet most will not stop here as once you start modding it you dont wanto stop, the diferences are just amazing


ADVANCE
indetifying the component for input stage (image credit to jazzy939)



from here please refer post 1214 by jazzy939 for pictures, i cant seem to save the pics he posted
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=19884882 <--direct link

-input resistor and gain resistor, smd component are never known for sounding good, the input resistor on the board are probably 5% tolerance, i measure 19.6xk to 19.8xk on them, changing to 1% metal film or better will improve the sound, espcially imaging.

-as you can see some biascap and others being change as well in the picture, not sure how much they effect the sound, jazzy939 did this mod in 1 shot and are quite surprise by it

-bypass cap for power supply, just beside the power supply cap, c6 and c7. good power supply make a noticeably difference in t-amp

-soldering copper wire directly from 12v terminal to chip, again, a good power supply is important in any amp, since the original root is quite thin in size, soldering 2 copper wire to the ta2024 pin will let the chip have plenty of power to work with, espcially with bigger panasonic FM in. sorry for the lousy pic, it is solder to pin 25,26,29 and 30



-output filter capacitors, c22, c25, c27, c28 (sorry no pictures yet), some say these are as good as changing the input caps, polyester 5% or better are recomended here.

-output filter coil, those 4 black thing, ferite coil gives dynamic and vivid signature to the t-amp, while aircore gives smooth and relax feels to it, up to the listener. other then that shielding the coil will make the amp sounding clean, haven try it tho, but good feedback from those who has done it.

bellow files belong to bro jazzy939, i upload it here for the convenient of others..

This post has been edited by xtorm: Sep 28 2008, 07:06 PM


Attached File(s)
 TA2024_mods_draft_STAGE1.pdf ( 1.35mb ) Number of downloads: 457
 TA2024_mods_draft_STAGE2.pdf ( 1.4mb ) Number of downloads: 376

xtorm,
Good thread although I did not expect to be this soon!
what value did you use for your stereo pot? Linear or log?
Will you cover the power supply?
Maybe it would be nice if you mention where you source your parts.. if other than Jalan Pasar or SS2 la..

haha cheapo stufflor, im not using it anyway i boguht 20k, should get 50k or so...

hmm i duno how to diy the power supply, im pretty much a newbielah...hehe

meanwell 8.5amp smps is selling for under rm100ler...

all my suff jalan pasar...haha

wan exotic 1 goto go octave

This post has been edited by xtorm: Aug 11 2008, 02:59 PM

Wah!.. newbie up to a great challenge ya?..
Anyway, an ample (huge?) PSU is very essential for lifting the T-amp (or any chip amplifier for that matter) to great potential. A 100kohm Alps blue log volume pot will do justice here too. Don't skimp too much if your expectations are high. Good luck!.

Thank you for the advice bsl!
Shortlist:
1. 100kohm Alps blue log pot
2. 'huge' PSU
Saw some great snubberized PSU for the GainClone, guess with 'little' mod should work well with the T-amp

alternatively, for even better quality, u might want to get a step volume pot, i forgot about the stepping, but all are good grade resistor

p/s: anyone interested, i have 1x 100k for sale

This post has been edited by vincent_audio: Aug 11 2008, 04:42 PM

Won't step volume pot costs a 'bomb'?
Expensive as you really need an audio grade resistors, am I right?
That 100k, alps or...

what brand and picture please?

http://www.diyzone.net/article.php?sid=369



resistor is exactly like in the picture, all Dale

Look nice.
But would much prefer a budget (but not so low quality)build as I bought the board to "save money"..

Bro xtorm,
Thanks for opening this thread.

This post has been edited by BSOD: Aug 11 2008, 09:29 PM

i have this at home, it has been running for 2 yrs





sounds great until... i found tubecad design hahahaha... then there's no turning back on tubey

edit: btw, i have the sonic impact t-amp too

This post has been edited by vincent_audio: Aug 11 2008, 09:38 PM

btw you guys should have gotten the amp right?

btw for those who like open and lively sound mayb should lower value input cap, just a theory tho, mayb ill try it with the other amp

my god that volume pot is nice! TA2022, other then bass some say there is not much different? how true is tht since you have both.

i got 1 of those resistor soldering type as well...haha what you call them?

---

Added on August 11, 2008, 11:52 pmjazzy and bsod, waiting to see you guys nice casing, mine is pretty plain and simple, im more concern abt the sound

This post has been edited by xtorm: Aug 11 2008, 11:52 PM

My package was delivered yesterday but won't be doing anywork on it till this weekend ler.. Need to go to JP to get the 'stuffs'!
I'll post the pre-work done pix first.. I have set my mind on this cute 'lil casing...

haha good good..

litsten to it before you mod the input cap, you will be very happy with the mod

btw the packaging i send nice ah?

This post has been edited by xtorm: Aug 12 2008, 10:19 AM

The TA 2022 has more power, that said it is capable of pushing lower sensitivity speaker with not much of load and thus less distortion. You got quite a loud noise at 2-3 o'clock on ur dial, but also quite a lot of distortion. That is easily archievable with the TA2022 @ 11 o'clock. The lower frequencies, not only the bass but also the vocal is more solid

guest tht is aspected from a more powerfull amp

Hi all, T-amp board with Tripath TA-2024 chip at only RM55? Where could I order one if I am keen?

diyparadise dot com selling the Charlize board with TA-2020 chip at RM350.

Y.C.,
You have to ask xtorm if there's going to be a second bulk for this. Maybe after this thread, there will be interested parties..

jazzy, thank you so much, will liaise xtorm.

Walau bro xtorm, u senyap-senyap then open a thread in Audiophile
Me still playing around with the T-amp, sound just great especially for its affordable price

bro xtorm, i think the volume control can't works on this amp as it only got single pot, you need double for stereo right?

This post has been edited by ongbs: Aug 12 2008, 10:46 PM

haha eh tell lah how does it compare to your old amp...

just install in my car, my impression is wow...

the moded amp is runing my mids, tight bass, kinda suprise they are so low power

the tweeter also sweet and the soundstage...yum yum...

hm my U-dimension amp is faulty, gona cost alot to repair it, gona try my USAmp later this week to compare, tht amp is 4x25w

for those don't have casing, try find some kaput car amp casing, it will fit in nicely and look pro!

Some more shielding should give better SQ
Just an Idea....

Noob Question : Does T-Amp sound like intergrate stereo amplifier?Like those marantz onkyo denon NAD cambridge?

to me it sound better (playing music, not AV) than my Kenwood DTS AV AMP, damn expensive about 8 years back. (the DVD from the same family cost me RM2700 that time, this AMP even more)

I am stuck to SQ that I like, not an audiophile thought....
but for sure the SQ for this AMP will fulfill most ppl, don't know about audiophile lah

This post has been edited by ongbs: Aug 12 2008, 11:06 PM


Attached image(s)

yea, pretty much, mayb just comparable to thier low end products, anywa gona go my friend house for a comparison when im free, gona cook them 1st

don forget ampzilla

hehe, the soundstage i feel better then the ampzilla lor...
maybe the ampzilla really too old liau

This post has been edited by ongbs: Aug 13 2008, 03:16 AM

Good idea indeed!
A metal casing have it's advantages, shielding is one of them.
Hmm may I have one to spare

where to get nice metal casing other then car amp

ill come up with a list of mod to be done during weekend soldering iron spoiled edilah

---

Added on August 13, 2008, 1:21 pmpm rply hope to hear from you soon

This post has been edited by xtorm: Aug 13 2008, 01:21 PM

Terribly good question!
In this bolehland we do not have access locally to good casings..
we're limited to whatever that are being offered in the shops(JP), pricey, limited and pathetic designs.
If you can afford it, can be custom made but, definitely 'costly'.
Only you can justify the extra cost over a chip/'cheap' amp.

haha im trying to forget tht im actually modding a very cheap amp with expensive parts hahaha

the board is cheap but the sound is not, and those mods bring good outcome! this board is so simple tht most of the component count

Agreed! The physical value may be 'small'; but the sonic value is 'awesome'.. hence, I will definite make an equally awesome casing!

Just replied to your PM reply, TQ

Guys,
This just came to my mind.
The computer switching power supply typically have a +12V DC rated anything from 12A to 16A! I think this would be a great power supply to the T-Amp, no? I have read somewhere switching power supply works well with the T-Amp.
I think the casing is big enough to house the T-Amp entirely! Of course, a separate housing for the amp is another option.
Possible?

Should be able to use the PC PSU, just worry if the board put inside, will it affect the SQ due to high switching frequency?
I am using external 12V 4A switching PS to drive my floor standing speakers, no noise/humming sound

This post has been edited by ongbs: Aug 14 2008, 07:31 AM

yep was planing to do tht, but my antec 480 when into anoter pc edi

get those with active pfc, put in a variable resistor to tune the voltage to 13v!!

ongbs, you very shioklah....me wan listen to proper setup also canotler, can only listen in car which is noisy like hell, goto put back my firewall sound insulation edi, also my floor carpet

xtorm,
bring the T-amp back to your house mah can test lor
Another option is send me your T-amp so I can test kaw-kaw for you...
I will blast it with FS speakers together with bookshelf (ya, will connect all together)

then i didnt go wat for i send youlah send my ears also ah



im loving the sound in my car, it is much more compare to my old setup which cost quite abit for the amp, but tht was in an old iswara which the whole acousitc is very different compare to this car.

the soundstage is good, there is depth, and it is wide, position is kinda good and the source is my handphone, hahaha, so no time aligment.

im happy, but it really is garbage in garbage out, some mp3 file sounded nice while others not really good

the highs is abit eggy now, changing the input cap should solve tht easily.

my unit is less then few hours run, still far away from the recomended 100hours burn in, it will take me a month or 2 to get tht figure if its in my car

This post has been edited by xtorm: Aug 14 2008, 09:55 AM

No need send me your ears lah bro ....
Drive your car "into" your house will give your better listening experience

I got a few higher uF caps now and gonna mod it soon, Nippon 16V 3300uF, ELNA 56V Audio cap 8200uF
Wanna try out Panasonic audio NP cap but it is 4.7uF...

This post has been edited by ongbs: Aug 14 2008, 10:21 AM

wah how much u got those!!!

must be damn big cos mine 50v 1000uf edi damn big

huhu...wanna know ah? pay lah!

sad, no time to mod the amp lately...just listening

This post has been edited by ongbs: Aug 15 2008, 01:41 AM

I finally got to open the package and assembled my T-Amp!
xtorm, your packing was excellent, thanx! Items arrived undamaged.

I have a 0-30VDC 3A bench power supply so powering the T-Amp is a cinch
Managed to listen for about 2 hours last nite!
Source was a SONY DVD Player connected to a YAMAHA pre-amp. Speakers are TDL's RTL3 Transmission Line speakers.
My speakers are rated 90dB at 1m for 1 watt.

This is my 2 hours of listening impression:

1. Upper frequencies from midrange and up; very accurate, vivid and detailed. I could picked up instruments so vividly. Vocals is the area where this T-Amp really shines, infact they are superb! I took out Diana Krall CD. She was singing and playing the piano right infront of me! In fact it made my reference amp sounds a bit 'smeared' in this department.
2. Low frequencies are all there: tight, but somewhat shy although well controlled. Probably due needing further burn in, the lower extension just wasn't there. Kick drums wasn't kicking enough, bass were generally without any 'weight'and 'attack'..I am a bass head and my speakers are definite bass heavy. I guess in a 'normal' setup, the T-amp may sound a 'lil bit bright.
3. Soundstage, depth and ambience were all there, solid and precise. All this from a 'RM55'?
4. I managed to add a 10uF cap to the existing input cap.. this somewhat improved the low end extension, need further listening and burn in!
5. I tested it and it handled from 21.5 Hz to 16kHz pretty well, just like my Technics! I did tried 20kHz, too bad, I just can't hear that high!

Initial conclusions:
1. For RM55 amp, this thing is hard to beat! This would be THE best Bang per Buck amp! Will give amps costings 100X over a run for the money!. I was comparing the T-Amp with my audiophile's Technics amplifier and a 40 W/ch DIY amp.
2. In it's stock configuration, very suitable for vocals and orchestral music, live recordings too! wow!
3. After 2 hours I can already detect improvements, so further listening and burn in is on the way! This is what weekend is for I guess
4. Will I sell off my Technics? Nope! There are reasons why it costs many many times over!
5. Since I have 2 boards, I may go into bi-amping...
6. Do we need 100W RMS/ch amp to drive a set of hifi speaker? Not if you're using this baby!

Sorry guys, no pics yet. Was terribly busy pulling out all my fav CDs..

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Aug 15 2008, 08:18 AM

Finally, I don't feel so alone anymore. The LYN T-amp club is now swinging!

oh man you review is supperb!!!

yea the bass is tight but it cant go low, probably bcos of its low wattage, 2.2uf cap is recomended as input cap, put in the best you can afford, tht make the most different, and be surprise as everything get wider and better also some good low esr cap at the power rail, im ordering 3300uf panasonic fm, gona make it 6600uf each side, the output filter (the coil and a cap) also make as much different as the input cap, but inductor is hard to source, make some good 1 for me jazzy? i dont have inductance meter

btw out of the box the sound will be abit edgy in the high, but it depends on speaker too..input cap solve tht problem easily

i told my friend tht this fella beats my old setup in my car he totally dont believe it, i was using a 2k++ amp b4 with same electronic crossover and speaker, the only different is the car, i dont think the car alone make so much different to the sound. and i was using blaupunkt 2nd to top of the line HU vs my current mp3 player tro handphone

thts my initial tot, and i haven even mod my tweeter amp yet, gona compare it with my cheaper but equally good USAmp (comparing to my rm2k++ amp) tis weekend if i can resist my self spending the time moding the amp

---

Added on August 15, 2008, 9:48 ambro they are coming

2nd shipment coming, doing the tt today

This post has been edited by xtorm: Aug 15 2008, 09:48 AM

xtorm,
the pleasure is mine! thank you for 'bulk'ing it

yes, the input caps does affect the sound. I did 'play' around with it last night. More experimentation to come!
you reckon 6600uF will do the trick? I may have to consider that too. I'll wait for your further input on this!
the output filter, what is your direction? I have in hand a few ferrite rings that was meant for some other project but was put on hold, I guess it's the time now to utilised it!
What values of inductance (uH) are we dealing with? I could make one, well two in this case for one board! Just furnish me with the values, ya? Refer attached pic if that is what you/we can use?
You sure this thing is useable in the car?
anyway, keep us posted with your mods ya? pics if possible.. I will too as soon as I am done playing around with the input caps and output filters.
I have to decide whether to use a linear PSU or switched mode. I also have a DIN55 battery at home. May use that to see any worthwhile sonic improvement running on a car battery!
I finally have the opportunity to test out my DIY preamp with T-Amp. Will do that this weekend.
Wait till you guys see the casing that I am saving for the completed integrated T-Amp...

Bro march,
WE brothers will not let any brother alone in the audio world!
Any plans for your T-Amp?

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Aug 15 2008, 11:08 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)

yea more is beter for power rail, those 220uf is recomended to change to better unit same value, and leave the 6600uf away nvrmind cos its kinda big

the inductors are 10uh, low resistance and low capacitance will be great, eh you need 4ler for each board

smps sounded the best from what i see online

mine is runing in my car fine! sounding very good too

oh ya, four per board! price wise, no big deal!
ok, 10 uH. Will do that next.. hmm so much thing to ler !

If thats the case, will give smps a shot. i have a few computer's psu laying around.. 12V at 16A may do wonders!
BTW, I was running the PSU at 12.6VDC last nite. The TA2024 chip is just warm to the touch. I am impressed!



This post has been edited by jazzy939: Aug 15 2008, 11:24 AM

voltage wise..

13.8 for more power!! hahaha

and put some metal around those inductor and ground it, shielding make quite a difference i heard, gona do tht tomolo

This post has been edited by xtorm: Aug 15 2008, 11:28 AM

13.8? I might give that a shot!
yes.. while I was testing/experimenting with the input caps, I noticed a little hum when i got close to the input caps and the inductor area (output filter).. If we were to enclose the whole board and ground it, it will be much better?

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Aug 15 2008, 11:37 AM

A honest and excellent write-up, jazzy939.

The shy low frequencies of Sonic Impact T Amp also using Tripath TA-2024 chip was also mentioned in a TNT review on Trends 10.1 amp of which its author pointed to as attributes of "how the circuit was designed around chip" and "quality and value of capacitors and resistors used". See article here. To seek better bass, we may need to experiment with better caps of different value.

Thanks Y.C. The pleasure is mine!
Experiencing the sonic performance is nothing like reading the reviews! Although 6moons and tnt-audio have a good write up, I was initially sceptical on the audio performance of the little 'thing'.. Hearing is believing, they say, now I know!

Yes, a lot has been mentioned on the caps, resistors and inductors alike.
As good as it is in it's stock configuration, what I like about this 'kit' is that there are still room for some 'tweaking' to further fine tune the audio to your liking.. A DIY enthusiast 'lil toy made in heaven..
Thank you for the link, will share/update my findings in this thread...


This post has been edited by jazzy939: Aug 15 2008, 02:34 PM

Well said, jazzy939.

I too have placed my order for the Class T amp from xtorm and is eagerly awaiting for their arrival. In my excitement, I poisoned 2 friends around me and shall have company in assembling our amps into their casings with the connectors required.

Will need to go parts hunting in JP / Octave Electronics during the weekend. BTW, do you think I could find Neutrik RCA connectors or others with equivalent quality for RM6.50 each or cheaper there? And, would a 50k ohm pot be a better choice for this kit amp than one with 100k ohm?

This post has been edited by Y.C.: Aug 15 2008, 03:11 PM

bro jazzy,

Damn...you really wrote a good and detail review of the TA2024
I dunno how to write such review but really like the SQ of T-Amp
Some more I dun have as many "ka chang" as you

What is your speaker configuration? (size of driver)
My T-amp pairing my Yamaha bookshelf (BS) 1xtweeter plus 1x6.5" woofer /ch, but the Yamaha 6.5" drivers been replaced with Mission M3 driver, refer here:
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=766126&hl=

The soundstage, mid and vocal is outstanding Just the bass not that "kick ass" type, maybe due to the smaller speaker enclosure box.
I am another bass head like you

I tested this amp with Yamaha floor standing speaker (FS), 2x8" woofer, 1x8" Mid + 1 tweeter per channel (just afraid T-Amp not powerful enough to drive FS)
Surprisingly it drives my FS speakers well, if I turn up volume till 80% at night sure will get complaint from my neighbour
Bass is much more improved compare to BS speakers, but the bass is kinda "soft", maybe due to the low power (15W?) output of this amp.
Even driving FS for 30min the TA2024 still can be touched with hand...around 45C I guess....damn nice.
AVG current draw at 50% volume with FS still less than 200mA!

bro, please wind another 4 coils for me can? Like for xstorm bro one, he really recom me to replace the coils...pm me the cost, thx!

This post has been edited by ongbs: Aug 15 2008, 03:48 PM

Wow.. you must have been a good salesman eh, selling items which you yourself don't have!!

I have NOT seen Neutrik RCAs in JP, they might have them but I never need them (yet). I normally got mine, a normal gold plated RCAs from NIXIE Electronics. I know one shop, at the end of the road after the traffic light heading towards Kg. Pandan. They have 'Neutrik' connectors there.. the one that I saw and bought was an audio jack for my headphones.. I'd say the best bet would be a 50K log pot.
As I am turning the T-Amp into a pure power amplifier, I have a separate preamplifier to drive it.

Btw, when will the stuffs be coming?


This post has been edited by jazzy939: Aug 15 2008, 04:12 PM

yea when i read the article i was like...hmm wtf, for real or not?
yes is pretty fun to play with TA10.1 basically same with our board, same evealuation board...

hopefully the item reach within 10days, previously around 8 days or so only, my suplier mention he might send it on monday. sending tomolo the stuff will be left in the office till monday, which serve no point

yea probably bcos of the wattage, but it got kickmah...no meh, no deep basslah...
haha those neutrik fake ah
saw some mondter RCA b4, the design totally look alike

Bass got lah..actually bass too loud with my FS, need to reduce a bit my bass setting.
I mean those "kick heart" bass feeling lah!
Normally with only get this "kick heart" feeling with higher output power amp.

Thanks bro ong
It was a pleasure writing it as much as auditioning the little marvel..

My speakers have two 7 inch bass drivers per unit.
Initially, on my preamp, the volume setting was around 10 to 11 o'clock positions.. at the end of the two hour sessions, the level I need is just at 9 o'clock. Any higher, I think my neighbours might be knocking on my door! It's hard to believe that it can be that loud!

I'll make the coils first and see how it performs, then I make some to you guys. Noproblemo!

jazzy how's your power supply configuration???? I mean how does the power supply circuit looks like? I though T-amp uses 12V PSU???? and did you snubbed it or what ever you could call it????

After much reading I have decided to go with a DC power supply using SLA or in my case, a DIN55 battery.
Have not done any sonic evaluation on this but I believe, the performance will be many times over a linear PSU. This is to the fact that there will be more than ample current from the battery to cater for transients requirement. No doubt, a linear PSU is able to do this but at a higher cost(better high quality circuits).
On top of that, it will be the cheapest way to power up the T-Amp...



This post has been edited by jazzy939: Aug 16 2008, 06:48 AM

It's the KISS principle, bro jazzy.

BTW below is my T-amp in current testing configuration. Waiting for more inspiration from you folks ...probably it'll go into a defunct but solid AKAI amp chassis for proper shielding, rip off the useless front facade/control panel, and voila, I guess it's something I can live with the next 10 years.

This post has been edited by March05: Aug 16 2008, 09:31 AM


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Of course! How can I forget!
Bro March, still 'testing'? Long test eh?
Hey whats stopping you ler? Chassis/casing sudah ada...
But then again, looking at what you have.. I can live with that for quite awhile... long while even!
Hopefully mine can last that long also.. unless something (better and cheaper) comes up!


This post has been edited by jazzy939: Aug 16 2008, 10:31 AM

ermmm, what is KISS damn those trans are sexy, ta2024? i think its a 2022 right?

cheaper and better then this..you goto kill me then, rm55 each ler

yesterday my friend try my 9 watter, then water come out from his mouth

This post has been edited by xtorm: Aug 16 2008, 12:19 PM

xtorm,
Its' Keep It Simple, Stupid or
Keep It Short (&) Sweet or
Keep It Sweet (&) Simple...
Take your pick. They all mean the same...

Your friend, lucky not water coming out from his eyes...

First pix here, showing the T-Amp on top of two 'massive' 10uF caps.. still process of burning in.
Playing Sean Ghazi's album SEMALAM make my hair stands on end...




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wow...

you should take out those original caps, 10uf is kinda too much tho

I know but I kinda like what I hear now!
Let's see, the onboard caps (2 in parallel,) I measured to be 2uF plus my 10uF, total caps is now 12uF. Too much?

As the burn in process is progressing.. it gets closer and closer to my preference sound...

Will removed the the existing caps after I am satisfied that the burn in process no longer make any improvements.. See if there would be any/much difference..

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Aug 16 2008, 01:30 PM

jazzy, my friends and I actually heard the Charlize amp (with Tripath TA-2020 chip) at the KLIAV 2008 in the diyparadise room; I thought the sound was very natural and hence the eagerness to build and own one.

Thanks for the info. Neutrik RCA connectors are available at Farnell for RM6.50 each and not really expensive unless the normal gold plated ones are much cheaper in JP. At diyforums, some diyers are saying that the 20Kohm non discreet type of potentiometers actually suits the class T amps more. The recommended PSU seems to be 13.5V DC 5A.

My T amps are expected to arrive in roughly 10 days from now, as xtorm puts it.

I look forward to read the sonic improvements brought about after your tweaks. Meanwhile, enjoy the music.

Y.C.,
Wahhh no wonderlah you are 'sold'..
At RM6.50 from Farnell, I think its a 'steal'..
For the pot, I can't help much as I don't use them at this point of time

Further update:

I took xtorm advice and remove stock caps from the 'virgin' second T-Amp board...
Bear in mind, this second board has 0(zero hours) burn in..
Plug in the board and... voila!
My jaw kinda dropped! Now the low end frequencies are somewhat 'heavier' and almost full bodied.. it definitely sounds better than my first T-Amp that has clocked 11 hours of burn in... Is this the same T-Amp?

I think the problem is the polarised 1uF input caps that came with the T-Amp.
I will remove the polarised caps only on the 1st. T-Amp and re-connect the two big yellow unpolarised caps in parallel, we'll see whats gonna happen next...

Here's the moded second T-Amp:

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Aug 16 2008, 03:05 PM


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walau bro, what is the brand/type of your little "cute" 10uF NP caps?

This post has been edited by ongbs: Aug 16 2008, 04:12 PM

It's EPCOS. Taken from my Yulong's PCM58 DAC board. That board no longer have any input caps

some how I'm in the corner between gainclone and tripath.....which choice should I choose....???

Hi all sifu here, can this T-amp power up by using my Honda EX5 battery?

oh rm6.50 is good to buy? then i might get few too as im ordering stuff form farnell next week.
yea those input caps kinda crappy actually, those input caps makes quite a different

prices vs performance...hmmm, and this unit basically you will need a 12v battery only

yea probably if its 12v

jazzy, all I could add after seeing the picture of your 2nd T-amp with gigantic caps is that I'm really excited and awaiting eagerly for my own T-amp to arrive.


xtorm, FYI the part numbers for Neutrik connectors are: Red NYS 367-2 (5008529) at RM6.50 each and White NYS 367-9 (5008566) at RM6.54 each. BTW how much did you pay for your RCA connectors? Problem with Farnell is, they don't stock up anymore in Malaysia and will courier the items ordered after payment directly to us if the minimum order exceeds RM20.

mysghooi, the recommended PSU is 12V DC 2.5A

This post has been edited by Y.C.: Aug 16 2008, 05:37 PM

Yes. I think its a 12V 4A battery. Definitely can power the TA2024 T-Amp!

Hi jazzy939 is the Honda EX5 battery DC battery, So I can direct hold up the wire to the battery. Is the Honda EX5 battery will lower the performance of T-amp?

Y.C.
Your patience will be worthwhile! The blue 'gigantic' EPCOS cap was recommended by my son as he says, that cap received rave reviews about it's sonic performance, and I concur!!
It is definitely better! Best part is, it cost me nothing!

Using premium parts will be worthwhile here as we're trying not to reduce a 'super duper' amp performance.
I'd say if you can afford it, BUY IT. Don't regret not buying it later..

I am running my PSU at 12.5 VDC max.. I did try 13VDC, there's a touch of graininess.. just. 12VDC would be the absolute minimum!

Hi mysghooi,
yes. all batteries are DC Your EX5 battery included!
Yes.. you can connect the battery terminal wires to the T-Amp, observing the correct polarities...
Nope, will definitely NOT lower the performance!


This post has been edited by jazzy939: Aug 16 2008, 06:00 PM

hi jazzy939 the EX5 battery got Red and black which one to connect to +12v and which one to connect to ground?

Wah, now anak can ajar the ayah, bagus nya!

Do you guyz think any of your cap mods will work on my TA2022 board....feeling so left out lah.

This post has been edited by March05: Aug 16 2008, 06:17 PM

Red to 12V+ and black to GND, make sure your battery is fully charged

See attached picture for reference.

The RED wire on the right is the positive, ie "+"
The BLACK wire on the LEFT is negative or GROUND, "-"

These will be clearly marked on the T-Amp board. Don't mess up, otherwise the board/chip will be permanently damage!



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