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DIY T-Amp user/diyer come here :), TA2024 complete build board diy

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Najmods
post Aug 18 2008, 08:32 PM

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QUOTE(gabanyayaya @ Aug 18 2008, 07:58 PM)
jazzy during operation between your 'two patient' you've change different capacitor to experiment the sq....can you tell me what factors that need to consider when changing caps???? value...type brand.....and different characteristic between each mF value???
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What jazzy change is the input caps. For input caps generally there is few things that should be considered:

1) Its best to use non-polar caps, or better non electrolytic caps. It is best to use non polar caps here if its electrolytic, and best to use non electrolytic (film caps, like polypropylene, polyester, or its metallised variant) but there is some good electrolytic caps like non polar Rubycon Blackgate NX HQ that is suitable for circuit that carrying audio (like input caps)

2) The capacitance: Best to stick with stock value, but if you want more bass, try a higher capacitance. Like jazzy change to 10uF from stock 2uF, it improves bass response considerably

That is based on my experience and my knowledge. Perhaps a more veteran and hardcore modder like empire23, LittleGhost or Ijan can give more info regarding this smile.gif
Najmods
post Sep 4 2008, 03:54 PM

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T-Amp driving headphones? Its a big NO. Read here
Najmods
post Sep 14 2008, 11:55 AM

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QUOTE(anima @ Sep 14 2008, 11:46 AM)
errr guys this t-amp how to connect with soundcard and use with normal speaker like altec lansing? or cant connect?
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Altec Lansing already have amplifier build in inside them, you need to remove it first to use this. If you don't know what am I saying or how to do it, you better stay away....or do some reading first
Najmods
post Sep 14 2008, 12:03 PM

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QUOTE(anima @ Sep 14 2008, 12:01 PM)
i read also confuse..so we use this with stereo passive bookshelf speaker only?
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Yeah, you can use any passive speaker to use with this. PC speaker already have amplifier build in, so don't do double amplification
Najmods
post Sep 14 2008, 12:20 PM

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QUOTE(March05 @ Sep 14 2008, 12:15 PM)
You are not confused it seems.

I first tried my T-amp with a Philips PSC805 and used it to drive my 25 year old Heybrook Bookshelf Speakers. The sound was fantabulistic, to say the least, a real eyeopener for a pc based music source, I have to say.

Hey, Najmods, have you got your own T-amp setup, or are you in Joint Venture mode with Jazzy?
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I'll have my own T-Amp soon. Maybe after he finishes his modding than he can build me one, which he plan to use my PC PSU to power the T-Amp smile.gif
Najmods
post Oct 26 2008, 02:14 AM

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Hmm...weird...no one ever done the review on yesterday's meet? hmm.gif
Najmods
post Oct 27 2008, 10:18 PM

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Should I write my reviews here too? tongue.gif Actually I can't hear at high volume, all I hear is noises inside my head, plus the small room bass is killing me actually, its resonate in my head tongue.gif
Najmods
post Nov 1 2008, 08:36 PM

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Well, not really sharp, but the treble sounds a bit harsh for my taste, not piercing, but harsh. But I satisfied with it, even at stock it sounds excellent, the stereo separation is just excellent, I don't need to focus myself to hear the details, plus I do hear a bit more than before and it sounds very clean too. Its a bit dry though, maybe because I don't connect my subwoofer yet. I shall say it does outperform mine...I mean Senior's Technics SU-V7 amp tongue.gif

I have some caps somewhere, I have ELNA (real one that is biggrin.gif) 470uF 25V, I think putting it to replace stock 220uF

Attached Image
Najmods
post Nov 4 2008, 02:30 AM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Nov 2 2008, 01:15 AM)
Good comments, Najmods or Jazzy Junior.  tongue.gif

The TA2024 chips are designed primarily by the now defunct Tripath as a multimedia amplifier, its main characteristics - ultra clean sounding and prominence to the highs and mids. Bass is slightly lacking. Use of suitable 470uF 25V electrolytic caps would restore the balance slightly (I found success with Panasonic FM ones). Replacing SMDs with discrete components and/or using a full resistor attenuator will further 'cure' the ultra clean sound and render the T-amp slightly more 'dirty', colourful and musical. All of us heard Jazzy's discrete compo board, its sound as what I have ascribed. We also heard how the Vishay/ERO MKT1813 metalised axial caps made the T-amp even more musical, especially in the midrange. All harshness and hardness from the stocked input caps were totally eliminated.

It is the next t/t session(s) that we could come up with further findings and conclusion.  biggrin.gif
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Thanks wink.gif Yeah I been reading a lot in this thread so I have some plans what to do on this amp, like the aforementioned 470uF tank caps and replacing SMD. But I think I skip the SMD part, as I have shaky hands and I tend to be notorious of destroying things tongue.gif

I done some more mods on the amp. Three stages of mods, but I can't post it earlier due to unreliable internet connection (thanks Screamyx) but I wrote it to WordPad biggrin.gif

Initial mod, Senior replaced the stock input caps with his famous 2.2uF F.ELNA and his big 10,000uF caps on the power input. Initial testing reveals smoother vocal and treble, and a bit more bass without the uses of subwoofer, but too much 's' distortion (sibilance) on some female vocal at high volume, but it seems to have more weight on female vocal too. Sound are well balanced throughout the spectrum, a bit flat, but I liked it. But I think it can improve with time, as it burn in.

2nd mod, I paralled 180uF Sanyo OS-CON with stock 220uF on tank caps, it sound very harsh, I ditch it quickly, so don't use Sanyo OS-CON on this amp.

3rd mod, I paralled 220uF 16V Rubycon caps I take from my dead Prodigy HD2 and paralled them to stock 220uF, plus I take another 1,000uF and paralled it with 10,000uF on power input for tighter bass, and my final mod is I take the stock input caps, removed the harsh 1uF electrolytic and paralled the whatever-film-it-uses caps to F.ELNA 2.2uF (for a total of 3.2uF), now the vocal has been smoothed nicely and the sibilance ('s' distortion) is minimized, sound much sweeter. I now use subwoofer at this stage. The bass is too much for my liking at high volume, but its beneficial for gaming biggrin.gif

Another mod I plan, is to use proper volume pots, the volume pot I use now is unbalanced, on certain volume its more to right, and to the left on others (its JP volume pots I think), and at the lowest volume, there is still sound leaking out of it.

What I particularly like about how T-Amp sound is it give the sense of 'space' all around, and the precision it 'displays' on instruments is amazing. I'll post some picture later. Currently, the amp has only run for about 17 hours, still in burn in stage smile.gif
Najmods
post Nov 7 2008, 06:27 PM

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QUOTE(justblair @ Nov 7 2008, 05:40 PM)
I thought you may be interested, A chap called Ales has submitted an article to www.justblair.co.uk about the boards that you have been working on. 

I have one on its way to me so I will be posting some more articles on the amp module in the future.

The article is here....Ales article on the TA2024 amplifier module

Hope its of interest...
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Thanks a lot Justblair! It would be more better if the picture is bigger though.
Najmods
post Nov 12 2008, 07:56 PM

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QUOTE(Dybre @ Nov 12 2008, 07:55 PM)
So basically, could this be used as headphone amp?
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NO, this is used to drive speaker, not headphone
Najmods
post Nov 13 2008, 06:13 AM

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QUOTE(Dybre @ Nov 13 2008, 03:23 AM)
could this be used to drive Aego M?
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Do you have any clue what you talking about? Do some reading first, if you don't know what you're talking about you better stay away from it
Najmods
post Nov 13 2008, 09:45 PM

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A bit of update on my T-Amp. My final mod to it is I put two 3300uF high quality Rubycon MBZ in series (totalling 1650uF) on power input, I don't think I need the enormous 10000uF like Senior did. I even try several values of tank caps up to 690uF (470+220), finally I settled at 440uF (220uF stock paralled with 220uF Rubycon caps)

After it reaches 20-ish burn-in hour, it started to sound different a little bit. No longer harsh like before, its smooth the high a little bit. Even though my current amp is without buffer unlike Senior did, but I like it sound to be a bit dry, for me its better to be dry than been surrounded by bass since my room is small

Oh, I forgot, I powered my T-Amp with my computer PSU, all 33A continuous current available on 12V rail at my disposal laugh.gif It sounded great, with no noise whatsoever, except if I play games when the PSU is been loaded, but I minimize it with enabling Vsync (limiting framerate to vertical refresh rate of the monitor). Something on my graphic card generating that noise, most modern mid to high end cards develop that annoying noise when in 3D games
Najmods
post Nov 19 2008, 01:23 PM

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Th thread gets quiet again hmm.gif here is some pics of my T-amp case, I lost the backpanel, I don't know whether I or Senior loses it, but finally I found a way, just drill the top and put the speaker terminal there tongue.gif
Attached Image

The innards, nothing special
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Najmods
post Nov 19 2008, 07:48 PM

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QUOTE(gabanyayaya @ Nov 19 2008, 07:36 PM)
you don't got any troubles with those cheap binding post that senior bought to you....????

and i see d'dac......strip naked....how does it sounds without input cap with the t-amp???
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Trouble? What trouble? It works just fine smile.gif

Its not input cap its output caps tongue.gif Without it it sounded more detail, maybe a bit dry but I liked it. But because this T-Amp only have passive volume pots, it sounded too dry, maybe I wanted senior DIY buffer now tongue.gif

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