nippon pylox will do....

this one need to ask striderozy.

I've done at least 4 fully painted kits using industrial spray cans and probably the most important thing to remember is to always prime your kit before spraying. Masking on top of painted surfaces is almost impossible as the paint will almost always peel off with the masking tape during unmasking. However, priming helps but doesn't guarantee that the paint will stick. I'ved used bosny acrylics and the paint doesn't stick that well (it chips off easily). Nippon laquers are probably the best, as most forumers here would attest to it. I've found a few at my local shop and tried them out. Used mainly flat black and abit of gray. Finishing was fantastic and you could probably fool most people into believing that it was painted using an airbrush. Paint sticks much better compared to bosny. Sadly I don't have pictures of my model kit with me.

This post has been edited by cherub: Nov 4 2008, 03:12 AM

Hv been stop doing model kit for a LOOOooooooooooong time... and just found a kit (mg hi nu) haven't assembled yet... feel like wanna start this now.

So far i have nvr yet successfully painted a kit with AB... my AB too easily clogged.. could be the AB (a 2nd hand gift from a friend's brother who do graphic long ago) or it could be because im using Acrylic? Is it true that Acrylic very easy to get clog when used with AB?

so im thinking to try Gunze Lacquer this time... Im trying to recall watever information n process i remember from last time. pls correct me if im wrong:



Step 1: sand kit. wash kit. dry kit. Spray with Primer (Mr Surfacer 1200 Can/ bottle) I hav tried bottle one and again my AB very often clogged by it.

Step 2: Spray main colour.. This time i will be using Lacquer paint instead for AB. is there any difference between thinner for acrylic and lacquer.. I hav a big bottle of Mr Colour thinner. I can use industrial thinner to do my Ab cleaning right?

Step 3: Decal....

Step 4:Top Coat... Flat Matt. only available in Spraycan? I find it very difficult to spray all the parts with can..

Step 5: paneling? Using acrylic paint with tiny brush? since Acrylic doesnt mix with lacquer paint below.. Am i correct bout this? or shall i do d paneling b4 do Top coating to it?


how's d procedure? Did i do anything wrong? anymore advice? tomorrow shall go to time machine to buy some paints to start the job

ok i have use tamiya Acrylic and have not mange to get my air brush clogged and it not the best quality one too. so ok what did you do to get it clogged ?

Acrylic does not get ur AB gun clogged easily, there are few reasons y...
1. u din not have enough thinner in ur paint hence, paint too thick and get clog.
2. u din not clean ur AB gun properly so tat's y easily clog...

Ok, let me correct ur steps...
Step 1. Pre-assemble kit, sand kit, wash/wipe the dust off, spray with primer.... Primer bottles are the easiest to get clog, tat's y u must spray fast and dun leave it lying there.. the ratio for primer and thinner is 2:3, must put a lot of thinner.. remember

Step 2. spray Main/Base color, there are difference for acrylic and lacquer but i found that most ppl use lacquer for AB and YES u can use industrial thinner to clean ur AB. That should be the way..

Step 3. Paneling. Do not use acrylic paint. Acrylic DOES mix with lacquer paint, i'll give a chemical reaction.

Step 4. Top coat a layer. Top coats come with bottle not only spray cans...

Step 5. put decals

Step 6. Last layer of top coat...

You're Done~

added up to what zero posted... step 3 the paneling... use enamel for panel lining...

actually acrylic can one, but the the gunze hobby acqueus one, that one quite weak, u use windex for cleaning, no affect lacquer layer. use water to dilute for washing panel line.
if got enamel, go for enamel.

guys I wanna ask what type is this paint ......


Brought from Famitoy ..... the shopper said is an oil-based paint and can mixed with normal thinner to used?

So this paint is acrylic or enamel or others type?
Did it nice for hand painting?

enamel is oil base, acrylic is water base. unlest they have a new fomular that how thing will be for paint

same type with Mr. color (tomahawk cap), acrylic with solvent base. u'll need "Mr. Thinner".
btw.. it's stated clearly on the bottle it's "mr.color" ma

look like i better stick to tamiya color and Vallejo model air (no tinner needed and can clean with water:P )for AB , Vallejo modle color for hand painting..

This post has been edited by Revliss: Nov 4 2008, 04:08 PM

Hello Revliss,

May I ask where to get Vallejo model air?
Thank you.

ya but ..... must use the Mr.Thinner for painting?
Normal thinner ya will melt the gunpla but the shopper said use the normal thinner is fine ?? =~= confused .....

never try never know.
no big deal k.
mr. thinner or normal thinner also can.
u already know the consequence of using both.
if still unsure, test on scrap.

normal thinner from hardware shops will melt your gunpla.

right now Singapore or mail order it from the uk ..unlest some one bring it in

Can I asked....
What is useful of cement?
I will make my weapon because my gundam weapon is broke.
I will buy Pla-plate but I don't know whait is it,give some pic.
I remember that is a soil like brown-yellow colour to make model,what is it?

all paints and thinner's smell is surely sickening de... please wear mask when AB-ing...

I suggest you try out the normal thinner and see how. By the way what shopper said normal thinner is fine?