For readily available kits, there's the KBDPAD MarK II from KBDfans.
https://kbdfans.com/collections/kbdpad-mkii

From time to time there are also group buys but you really have to keep an eye out for them.

Personally I was previously using Keebio Sinc with 2L1P NUM:
Now I just use Keebio Fold. My numpad is on a layer:

I saw the Monsgeek M1 and it looks good for my use case, wanted to try some different 75% kit, but no wireless and bluetooth is a deal breaker.

I was using the Akko PC75B previously and I need to purchase another 75% KB. Is the any recommendations that is similar to M1 in pricing, features, quality but with wireless connectivity?

Monsgeek M1 with bluetooth is coming out next month (March)
Alternatively there is the Keychron Q1 pro.

Both are technically budget, full aluminum housing keyboards with bluetooth.
Monsgeek (akko) and keychron should be reputable enough that the Q1 pro / M1 Bluetooth shouldn't suck.

after brief tests on the alpha area with kbd67lite r3 + ixpe switch foam, i think the mushy feel still presents in wuque's ws silent linear. however, the level of mushiness is relatively lesser than other silencing implementations.

i have compared it with silent linear switches from cherry, gateron, and durock. you should know that for cherry mx silent/pink, beside mushiness, there is inherited scratchiness.

there are ways to make a build relatively 'quiet', with normal linear switches, e.g., a plateless build with a flex-cut pcb. one of my builds is jwick black + dz60 v2. it's relatively quiet. it's a tray-mount, with a low-profile case from ymdk, that has no standoff in the middle section of the case.

just noticed the tray-mount case maker has added zt68 case as well.



i really hope they make copper/brass weights as alternative to fill up space for battery, or to cover the bottom case entirely with it. that will be super awesome.

if u want to test your keyboard keys, this is a good site for that
https://www.keyboardtester.com/tester.html

basically to check for faulty keys not registering as they should.

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Feb 17 2023, 04:22 PM

you can also use the key tester in qmk toolbox, and via (web)

gonna to ask, is there any decent and prebuild 98% keyboard?'

PS: of course, other than keychon

This post has been edited by josh5671: Feb 17 2023, 11:47 PM

i was doing my mkb cleaning, so i left it to dry for a day, then tested that everything was working. so thats why i was using that. but i'll try yours the next time i do that

i also used a vacuum blow drier to make sure everything is as dry as possible. i also use a hand brush with bristles to clean the keyboard.

https://www.lowyat.net/2023/294388/razer-bl...verload-rm1149/


RM1149?

I think you can get a decent mkb for half the price already ( we aren't dying for choices in the past few years, FORTUNATELY). so what exactly are you paying extra for i wonder?

it's important to have these types of discussions least people end up paying more than they really should have

the first thing i would ask, if they asking for that price, they better have decent durable lights, good keycaps and switches.

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Feb 18 2023, 08:52 AM

that pricing and no optical switches?
no offense, as the budget to mid end keyboard are performing so well,
people who buy this either rich that doesnt care, or just branding effect.

i don think razer is durable branding lol
especially when i watching the logitech G series durability going hill down. (maybe i get the lemon/jackpot about this)

haha yes, regular cleanups are essential to maintain hygiene, and i think it helps reducing the chance for key chattering. believe it or not, i never experience key chattering.

after going through its feature list briefly, i think it's meant for those who will pay for a full-size, and ideas like controlling rgb lighting for the board and wristrest, or playing games with 8000 mhz polling rate. yeah, crazy stuff.

while it uses double-shot abs keycaps, i do hope the wristrest uses durable materials as well. it would be an eye sore if they don't do that after a year or two.

Unfortunately branding / ads is working very well for Razer. Many kids these days think that’s the end game keyboard.

Having used their optical switches (huntsman elite pro) for a pretty long time, both clicky and linear… I don’t really like the feel nor sound of it. And these 100% gaming keyboard takes up way too much desk space too.

Their double shot abs shines/smoothen out very easily. For those with razer keyboards, I highly recommend getting the pbt keycaps upgrade…. It’s actually quite decent for the price.
The wristrest has rgb…. But other than that it’s quite meh too.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Feb 18 2023, 06:35 PM

i just completed a new reference build with haimu midnight blue. this time i just use the switch as is. surprisingly it's ok. there is no obvious spring pings.

haimu midnight blue is factory-prelubed linear switch, pom-based housing, upe stem, and 18mm 2-stage 60g spring. it has a shorter key travel distance (3.5mm, like cherry mx speed/silver), with actuation point at 2mm. hence it will have early bottom-out.



This post has been edited by horns: Mar 3 2023, 01:43 PM

with community efforts, mkb stuff have been relatively improved for new users.

the current market is progressively replaced by prebuilts and custom kits that are relatively convenient for new users to achieve what we wished for many years ago. things like pcbs with switch hotswapping support, different layouts, pre-cut foams, and bare bone units, are meant to make the hobby more economical than before. beginners have the convenience to replace stock parts with those they are comfortable with, or choose to use foams or not, based on own preferences. there are always solderable pcbs for them to have a even solid build.

i remembered back then there were vendors that told us it's impossible for them to provide all these options in retail market, because of higher costs, warranty issues, and all other bs. however, the last time i checked i already saw them releasing hotswap models, kind of quietly.

edit: things have changed. with the continuous improvements in structural support for switch hotswapping found in recent models from different brands, we have established a relatively good starting point for everyone, so that we can tune almost everything conveniently. beside the above, areas like switches, stabilizers, and prepackaged parts for tuning, have also received practical innovations, and a number of them are always readily available. (while some of them are still playing hard to get. it's fine, because we can ignore them safely)

beginners should leverage on this new environment to explore more, at least learn to tune their boards for own long-term comforts.

This post has been edited by horns: Feb 20 2023, 12:50 PM

Custom kits are starting to get a lot more mainstream now.
Those keyboard shops are now packed with people.

I remember back in 2010, I was quite impressed with my friend's HHKB.
But the need to solder and the price just chased me away.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Feb 20 2023, 05:26 PM

yea. imagine soldering 75% aka 80~82key.
and every switch have 3 pin. oof


but all these 'mainstream' also grow another issue, where everyone can get product from oem and slap their own brand.
they honestly not really sure what user want, and some sh*tty final product too.

correction: the key switch in hhkb is called electrostatic-capacitive (ec), or topre switch. it doesn't need soldering.

another correction: for cherry mx style switches, there are only 2 pins to be soldered per switch.

I saw my friend soldering on his hhkb back then.
Likely not the switches but some other mod/repair I guess

When I got my filco majestouch back in 2015.
I did think of changing the mx cherry browns too… but when that requires a lot of soldering, it’s not really worth the effort too.

ok i got it now. there are custom builds with hhkb layout as well.

right, it's a relatively cumbersome process to modify existing soldered commercial boards. many got stuck at the initial stage, which is switch desoldering, mainly due to inexperience, bad tools, that led to bad outcomes. if only they chose to build their own, they would learn that switch soldering and desoldering are actually the simplest of all in a typical build process.

like i said before, the differences between modifying existing commercial prebuilts and building their own boards have been brought up many times by seniors, but no one actually understood what they meant.