You can go to MKB shop to see if you like the graywoods. Prelubed and cheap! Also quite a few sounds demo in bilibili site.

The GMK stabs arent the best but ever since i got this i never use my keychron v1,

Bear in mind im just a casual hobbyist though.

My Monsgeek M1 finally arrived.
Did the tape mod and force break mod.
Akko lavender purples (factory lubed).
Ninja style PBT keycaps that also fully support rgb if I really need to look at the font in the dark.

Contemplating if I should change the stabilizers. A tiny bit of rattle.



This post has been edited by LegendLee: Feb 10 2023, 10:28 PM

LOL..how your m1 arrive late than me?.... i literally buy days maybe week after you.

i am fine with default space bar. only the sound quite different with other key...not sure why.
the only downside is, my darling keycap not shine through type....

This post has been edited by josh5671: Feb 11 2023, 10:36 AM

you should try tuning stock stabilizers first.

after-market stabilizers are used mainly because we buy parts to make boards from scratch, and there is no stock stabilizers provided. over 90% of stock stabilizers can be tuned to become better with common modifications, if done right. it's just that due to hype and marketing, some people tend to purposely boast about 'superiority' of their favorites over the others.

btw most 'innovations' in stabilizers were based on common practices in mkb community. some have been improved over the years. beside stabilizers, you can get a prepackaged pads that are used to do common modifications. these are for your convenience, you can still do the same without them. for instance, do not use band aid in a band aid mod. use other materials (e.g., ptfe, silicone, poron, with the right thickness) instead. these mods are optional and conditional. the key is always to identify actual problems first, then apply the right mods to resolve/minimize them.

of course, it's your choice. it's good to find out yourself that after-market stabilizers need tuning as well hehe

links to keycaps pls
tq

as of this writing, tx keyboard has added more options for springs, mainly made based on stock springs in cherry mx switches.

a typical height of stock spring for cherry mx is 15mm tall. all are still linear rated.

1. s series, 14mm;
2. m series, 15mm;
3. l series, 16mm; and
4. xl series, 18mm.

bottom-out spring weights for each series are 45g, 50g, 55g, 57g, 60g, 62g, 65g, 67g, 70g, 75g, 80g, 85g, and 90g.

for those who are concerned about relatively weight consistency, tx spring is a good option. average deviation is controlled at +- 1g.

This post has been edited by horns: Feb 11 2023, 02:20 PM

Got it from here

https://shp.ee/dia84w2
Or can just search for this one on shopee
【JKDK】polar-day-PBT-keycaps-font-transmits-light-OEM-profile-gray-and-white-gradient-color-keycap

A bit pricey for a no brand keycaps.
The fonts are ugly imo, but I can’t see much with the ninja profile and/or rgb off.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Feb 11 2023, 02:39 PM

Hmmm. Good point.
Mods with other commercially available materials are a good idea too. I’ll try that out.

yes. mods like lubing, and band aid mod are reversible. so with such tests, you can find out the right materials that you prefer for each mod. (e.g., lube type, dampening materials)

the general idea of these stabilizer mods are to make long keys feel like 1-u key when you type on them. anything unusual should be cleared, e.g., wire rattles. i hope you can learn a thing or two about other stabilizer modifications, and their purposes. this is because each solves different issues, so it's better to apply the right ones only, to help solve/minimize issues.

for instance, the purpose of band aid mod is to dampen out sound when stabilizer stems hit the pcb. however, with the wrong materials and thickness used, the typing feel of these keys can become mushy, which is not optimal.

edit: stabilizer mods can be stacked to achieve desired outcomes. but in general, the less mods applied, the better.

also, make sure the stabilizers are installed properly, because bad installation can also cause weird things to happen.

This post has been edited by horns: Feb 12 2023, 10:37 AM

New to MKB here.

Is it a good idea to start with Keychron k4 pro brown switch?

Or could I get better keyboard base with the money spent?

if you're interested in silent linear switches, without mushy feel, you should try out wuque's ws, https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=691808903763



based on the stem design, they are made by haimu. also, note that it's not compatible with cherry mx style switch opener. (at least not mine; i used tweezers to open them up)

This post has been edited by horns: Feb 13 2023, 11:21 PM

for beginner, keychron k4 full kit with switch hotswapping should be ok to start with.

as for value for money, no idea. however, you should look for similar options, based on what you want as features first.

--

although i don't like clip-in, tx stabilizers with stoppers kind of changed my mind. they are working relatively well. i bought some more.

the pcb-mount stabs by wuque are on the way also. there are two variants, for 1.2mm and 1.6mm pcbs.

these days things are getting slow, so i just check out new stuff every few months.

after using the 75% aka 80/81 key m1.
i also eye-ing on 98% keyboard. gonna to use it as office keyboard to replace the tecware phantom (certain key pressed with metal sound feel annoying already)
office work cant really miss that keypad, unless i get external keypad but again external keypad also not cheap if you plan to get same mechanical style.
maybe will get barebone kit for 98%, if it exist.

i see you have started to notice differences between boards. good

for 98%, they are relatively rare compared to 60/65/75/tkl. there are a number of them, but not sure if they are still available. i think they have different layouts as well.

Keychron just launched their Q5 96%.
Then there's kbdfans odin and wind x r2 is in gb with southpaw available at rebult.

If the Monsgeek m1 works for you, can consider the m2 if you want the numpad. No knob though.

Releasing in a week.
Thinking of getting it and pairing with some silent switches.
Either the haimu recommended above or the boba silent switches.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Feb 15 2023, 04:10 PM

the m2 is 98%?...i tot m2 is TKL.
but again, if my m1 already cost 6xx. m2 surely shoooooot upward going 8xx, especially that 20+ more switches. and m2 itself priced higher
aluminum hurt wallet:w but again, again....can consider lol:hyper:

This post has been edited by josh5671: Feb 15 2023, 04:27 PM

actually i notice the metal noise on key, not that annoying until i get the M1 with diyshop hand lubed switches lol.
probably middle layer of it causing shaking when i press, but i not even bother to diy fix it as the switch i try to pull, it wont even came up at all.

yep, thats why 75%+numpad also in my consideration, but i personally yet seen any 'good' numpad that match with mechanical keyboard..
mostly is random usb numpad for officer+laptop user

The M2 is 96%
You can technically already buy it, but the international version is only out next week.
M2 Kit alone should cost less than USD 120 excluding shipping.
The M1 Kit only cost USD 100 by the way.
Can buy straight from the Monsgeek website.
When it comes to value for a solid aluminium keyboard.... hard to beat Monsgeek for the time being...
It is much cheaper than the Q5 or the WindX R2.

My MathewTech (Unknown China brand) Keyboard isn't too bad.
But the keyboard kit itself isn't significantly cheaper than the M2 too.
If I can choose again, I might go for the M2 over this.


This post has been edited by LegendLee: Feb 15 2023, 04:51 PM

ya. even my friend that using good keyboard say m1+greywood v3 is good combo.
m2 can consider if shop carry in with good price, as m1 i buy 320+- locally. it absolutely less than 100usd
and if i pick m2 that will be similarity on the build quality, and no need to looking for external numpad



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