I saw some RCCBs listed as 'High Immunity'. Is this HI the same as anti nuisance trip feature or it's something different?

HI is usually used to described advanced anti-nuisance trip (protect against switching transients and harmonics).
Those with anti nuisance trip (protect against switching transients) for residential use will suffice.

Thanks for the reply. Learned a lot from your various postings.

Thanks for the reply. On another note, I have one issue with my newly installed RCCB (brand EPS, 63A, 100mA). The RCCB will trip once the main power is switched on, even when all the MCB are switched off. Any idea why is this happening and how to troubleshoot? My electrician is telling me my RCCB is faulty and I'll need to get a new one.

Also by process of elimination, it should not be hard for the electrician to prove a component or the load is faulty by hooking up a test load like a lamp or something (ie disconnect everything else). Sometimes old wiring or old appliance can be leaky. A competent electrician can easily swap out your RCCB with another 100mA unit that he/she has in stock.

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, my electrician does not have a spare 100mA RCCB, instead he swapped it with his spare 300mA RCCB and it stops tripping. Therefore he is telling me that my newly bought RCCB is faulty and to get a new one. Just wondering, will it be possible it's due to earth leakage from a neutral wire?

That is where the process of elimination comes into play (if there is no load connected at all to the RCD you bought) then it should stay energised.
He can also slave the 100mA you bought into his 300mA onto a spare bulb as test circuit just to test the RCD functionality.

You should return it for more reputable brands if even a controlled test circuit refused to work.

I think it's time for me to get a certified electrician to get the job done. He has no idea what I'm talking about when I asked him to perform a test circuit to confirm if the RCD is indeed faulty. He even suggested for me to buy a new RCD that is less sensitive (300mA) just like the spare RCD he has installed for me. I do not want to be killed 6 times over so I just brushed him off. Thanks again for your reply.

I got headache with most electricians nowadays and I don't know where to find someone competent now to install ab RCD/RCBO 10mA for me.

The electrician that someone recommended does not know what is RCBO and tell me this is not for Malaysia one 🤦‍♂️. He further insisted that I'll need to rewiring everything when I install one.

Really headache and I don't know where to get someone competent. I've not used the water heater for months now.

i bought schneider electric RCBO for my home. supposed to be quite good in terms of safety, reliability. contacted schneider electric support and they directed me to nearest store. think online also have

Hi Guys, after reading the comments here I decided to check what's in my house. It's a 2 storey house in Melaka with 3 phase supply. 1 WH connected to dB downstairs which I will replace with 10mA RCCB. Will also replace the main 4P 100mA RCCB with 30mA from ABB.
Upstairs DB will also replace main 100mA RCCB to 30mA.... But all slots full so can't change to RCCB for each WH so looking at options...
1. Change 14way to 18way DB?
2. Replace with 10mA RCBO for the 2 WH...is this PnP or need also to identify the N and connect accordingly?
3. Maxguard or any other Sirim approved 10mA RCBO ok or recommended Schneider only?
4. All the WH are connected by plug socket in wall above inside bathroom. Will also replace this with splash proof socket as recommended... Can I connect the 10mA RCCB above this socket instead ? Or above switch outside bathroom?
Thanks

just curious, why you want to use the 30mA for the mains?

sorry ignore the questions above, just found out that my house also having the 30mA

This post has been edited by lowyat101: Jan 6 2023, 10:57 AM

Hi there, my house is a 3 stories terrace with 3 phase electric supply. Developer gave 0.3A RCCB. Is it safe?



This post has been edited by RagingCandy: Mar 17 2023, 05:15 AM

Wow, not bad that the developer give HAGER!

Completely useless for human life protection.
Its only good for fire protection.

0.3A RCD has NO PLACE in residential domestic use.

For single RCD (whole house RCD) your RCDs shall be a 30mA (0.03A) [one per house] to be code compliant; AND
a 10mA (0.01A) [one for each water heater circuit].


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Most welcome. Sorry late reply.

Got one, but you need to dig in FB "Chargeman & Wireman" group.

1) is always possible, I run 48 way for my small apartment; RCBO is space saving as it can replace existing MCB slot (1-to-1).
2) need to identify the return N for that specific circuit. bit mafan. but doable, and its a necessary step for proper installation.
3) Your life insurance provider. Personally if best-of-the-best, ABB or Hager has technical advantage being VI (voltage independent) in such that even if the voltage to RCD dips below certain V, the RCD still will operate even at 0 voltage. It is pure current imbalance detection. Whereas "for any other commonly available brand that is cheaper" they are highly likely to be the VD type RCD (voltage dependent). Nevertheless, understand that ABB/Hager 10mA costs upwards of RM150 each, I would recommend at least getting a Schneider 10mA.
4) Plug and socket is illegal because almost all WH already exceed 15A nominal. Change to splash proof centon connector.
4.1) The 10mA ideally should be at the DB box area for ease of maintenance but if there is no other better way, keep it OUTSIDE of the wet area (outside of bathroom) and before the 20A switch (i.e. RCD must always be powered).

30mA offers a "seatbelt" to cut power before your heart goes out of order "ventricular fillibration" at 50mA.
Since 100mA or 300mA is gonna cut power AFTER your heart goes out of order "ventricular fillibration" at 50mA... in short, it means bye bye

There is no mention of 300mA for domestic installation in the MS1979 COP at all.
--Yes this is old version @ 2007 but the 2015 one didn't change much.


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Bro, I have seen 300mA RCCD being used in Sarawak. The developer and all other electricians we spoke to claim 3-phase power supply requires 300mA RCCD which I think is bollock because ST guidelines suggest 100mA max.

And there's no 10mA RCCD for water heater too.

For single phase the RCCB is 100mA for power and 30mA for lighting. For water heater it is 10mA.
If 3-phase the main RCCB is 300mA (effectively 100mA per single phase) and 100mA (around 33mA for single phase). Dont think there is any application for 3-phase heater in a residential home.

This post has been edited by brutus: Mar 19 2023, 07:55 PM

Shitty developer. There is one sub-db which using a 0.1A RCCB. Shall I change the main-DB to 0.1A or lower?

Means using 300mA RCCB is okay? Noob here