The lower of the trip current, the higher sensitivity of detecting current leaking.

300mA better dun put la. Confirm six times killed, then only trip

The higher the better for them only because 1. Lowest price (lousy sensitivity is dirt cheap on 3phase) and 2. very hard to trip (no callbacks from owner). Which is ok for industrial use but at home, what good is human dying 6 times over ☠☠☠☠☠☠ before it decided oh ok..lets trip.🥱

All the expensive specification i.e. 63A max load, 30mA top tier sensitivity, 3phase supply and good brand like ABB/Hager using VI design (works regardless got voltage or not) will cost 290-300 bucks for RCD alone easily exclude installation.

At 300mA 🤦‍♀️, VD type (won't work if no voltage), non high end brand (Schneider and below) easily half the price but ZERO life protection. ☠☠☠☠☠☠ It only protect building for FIRE 🔥 protection. Not to mention, its illegal to use 300mA in residential...CHEAP mah! 😅

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 29 2022, 07:03 PM

Yes, lower mA trip current is safer.

Humans die at 50mA current.

Pick your poison between 30mA, 100mA, 300mA.
Two of them can and will ☠. Just a matter of whether ☠☠ or ☠☠☠☠☠☠

Holy cow. Lucky I asked. kknccb contractor.

Spent 10k to upgrade to 3 phase thinking can get better safety. Manatau...

So this EPS brand ok? Saw they use EPS brand in the whole DB box.

Going to tell the contractor to change this RCBO...Which brand should I tell him to change to?

Should I call other electrician to double check or audit their work? Scare kena electrocuted.

3phase and 10k reno should use ABB or Hager for the mains RCD 30mA (0.03A)
EPS boleh pakai lah..local brand.. but I personally prefer ABB. Safety item really you get what u pay for

⚠️ Also ensure you have individual 10mA (0.01A) per each water heater unit.

If MCB is EPS, can still mixed with Hager RCD?

So I just tell the electrician to change the 300mA to Hager/ABB RCD 30mA?

If I got 4 toilets with water heater, then have to use 4 individual 10mA RCD? Or just use 1 10mA RCD?

Suddenly feel like kena kencing by contractor... Damn sienzz...

If MCB is EPS, can still mixed with Hager RCD? Yes

So I just tell the electrician to change the 300mA to Hager/ABB RCD 30mA? Yes

If I got 4 toilets with water heater, then have to use 4 individual 10mA RCD? Yes 4WH = 4x 10mA RCD's is best. If DB no space issue, can use Schneider 25A 10mA RCBO

The best way to install RCCB for water heater is installing it nearby the water heater, if you don't mind aesthetic

my 14 years old house main db with 63A 100ma RCD and 40A 100ma, 3 WH with 20A MCB only (zero protection)



recently swapped with new db and upgrade to 63A 30ma RCD and 40A 30ma and 3 WH with 25A 10ma RCBO

Appreciate your reply.

The Hager/ABB RCD 30mA can support the whole house? Even with 3 phase wiring?
I only have 1 DB box for story terrace house. Contractor say 1 DB box enough liao.

Can, I'm using single (whole house) 30mA RCD w 3ph supply to type this

So complicated

So 1 number of 63A Hager 30mA RCB for whole house, replacing the EPS 300mA 63A.

And 1 25A Schenider 10mA RCB for water heater

hager 63A 30mA RCD for power socket and 40A 30mA RCD for lighting and fans, then 25A Schneider 10mA RCBO for water heater

no need lah, this is 2022
we are not in the business of selling RCDs
MS1979:2007 COP55 mentioned can put one single whole house RCD [at origin of installation]


the code in force is Electricity Regulations 1994
back then:
a. nobody use LED light. all use leaky fluorescent tube.
b. nobody use inverter at home for AC and fridge.
c. my Sony VCR also leak current, always kena zap from metal body. it came with 2 pin plug.
d. people use CRT TV

nowadays
appliances are made better with much lesser leakage current
meaning to say there's no actual need to use so many mains RCD's [this is in relation to some who propose one 30mA and one 100mA]
when one single whole house RCD 30mA can comply fully.
note its "maximum tolerance allowed" not "identical die-die must be exact"


----

as for your suggestion it is not wrong.. actually split load design is to have half the lights and half the sockets on each mains RCD (two mains RCDs), not split by lights vs sockets. Because again, 2022 everyone using much better made items with much lesser residual leakage current.

to expand on your suggestion, 3 phase supply CAN also be protected with 3x single phase RCDs.

split load pro: so in the case one RCD trips, you still have half the things running until user figure out what's wrong
split load con: cost of extra RCD

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 31 2022, 12:05 AM

Panduan_Pendawaian_Elektrik_ST_Edisi_Baru_2015


Attached File(s)
 Panduan_Pendawaian_Elektrik_ST_Edisi_Baru_2015.pdf ( 7.24mb ) Number of downloads: 74

This is really interesting stuff, wished last time Kemahiran Hidup class got learnt this things.

Hi all, my current water heater is not connected to RCCB. I plan to install RCBO instead of RCCB due to limited space at my current DB box.

Question, since the neutral wire from double pole switch for water heater is connected directly to the neutral busbar in db box, how can I identify which is the neutral wire for it, so that I can divert it to the outgoing at the RCBO? Many thanks in advance for your reply.

By the process of elimination.
Obviously, it won't be the 1.5mm thin wires.
So out of the 2.5mm pile..
disconnect half and test continuity. (isolate the bunch u disconnected - make sure it doesnt contact elsewhere). if its not lighting up the double pole switch LED then u have isolated that "half" - its somewhere in that isolated pile.

Its not hard, but its annoying coz you don't know which is which at the neutral. But it is a necessary evil and salute you for installing a 10mA RCD/RCBO anyhow.