The same question why car got different prices... I think its a common sense to see what it features and offered than expecting same price.

And no way MG Sazabi is affordable than RG Sazabi...

Ah! That's the one! So this daban is bootleg... I see. That explains quite a bit.
But ooof. RM360 is a very painful purchase.

I know where you are coming from..... lot of newbies to this hobby buy the cheaper bootleg only later to realise and regret that rm 360 is well worth it after assembling the pirate version lol...

1) sticker wont stick
2) uneven parts
3 ) peg holes sometimes very hard to go in
4 ) no warranty... any problem with your kits...good luck. At least with the original ones you can pass back to the dealer and they will pass it back to the distributor
5) plastic finishing diff quality

I kinda feel that if I'm putting in RM360 in, I gotta go all out with it. In that, I gotta get water slide sticker, panel lining, polishing etc. that's kinda why I wanna improve first, before i try one

Bandai MG Sazabi ver ka is affordable only if compare to RG Sazabi special coating version.

The MG Jesta looks kinda cool.
But what does this mean?
"Model House Coated Steel Bullets"
Does it mean it's different or bootleg or?

Would this model be a good one to experiment with customization? Or would you guys recommend a cheaper model to mess around with.

I mean things like sanding, painting over plastic cuts etc. Maybe a bit of weathering to give it a nice look etc

"Model House Coated Steel Bullets" happens to be some janky translation of Mobile Suit Gundam. "钢弹" from 机动战士钢弹 literally mean steel bomb/bullet.

We talk about normal release vs normal release here. Even MG 1.0 is still above RG price

This post has been edited by nazrul90: Mar 13 2021, 07:05 PM

Ah i see! So safe to buy then!

Any tips/guide for weathering as well as matte coating?
Is there anyway for me to reverse/remove the extra "customization" that I do on the model?

I'm quite new to GunPla, just started and so far I've only done
- 1 Red Zaku HG
- 1 Barbatos MG

Both didn't panel line or use sticker because my fingers too fat to stick them properly. And i'll probably spend hours struggling to fix any mistake I do.

I'll probably pick up the MG Jesta as my next build but I'd like to learn to do matte coating, some custom stickers, MAYBE some paint work and weathering.

So far I have a pair of Nippers (which have oxidised for some reason) as well as a hobby knife (which has also oxidised - probably cause I bought the Popular brand one)

I assume this 0.1 uni pin fine line pen is not good enuf for panel lining.

I have a couple of Q regarding customization/modding
- is it possible to remove the matte coating? I'm worried I decide to change my mind/apply too much/uneven. Is it remove-whenever, or Must-remove-before-it-dries kinda deal?
- how often is sanding required? how do i hide the uggo sand marks
- If I wanna do custom paint job, must it be spray on, or can I use brush?
- How "reversible" is all this customization?

This post has been edited by xKeneshirox: Mar 13 2021, 08:50 PM

As usual, check the seller's customer review and what not before you buy.

Sure sure! Ah, but my luck so bad. All the ones i wanna build all no stock

my first time seeing all these old classic kits... most yet to be reissued by Bandai

MSV retro kits are indeed hard to find. I would take that Psycommu Zaku if ever get reissue.

The main line however is easy to find. I bought few of them

Yeah, hopefully bandai will reissue them soon

Look in to water decals. It's way more forgiving than stickers. It's easy to work with and will give you plenty of time to shift the decal around as long as the surface is wet. You mean rusted? As for top coats, it's often made to last. Meaning there's no easy way to remove them once they're cured/dried.

You can hand paint, spray can paint or paint with an airbrush. I've tried all of them. Spray cans are very accessible but you'll waste a lot of paint and there's risk of you pooling the surface if you don't know how to control the spray. Hand paint is a pain in the ass for me. It's takes too much effort to get an even coat without any brush strokes. Airbrush requires an initial investment of buying the compressor and the airbrush itself. You'll also need to buy paints suitable for airbrush. Thankfully in malaysia, there's plenty of prethinned paints. All you need to do is just pour the paint in to your airbrush and you're ready.

Everything takes practice to master and some amount of messing up to learn. I suggest you get some Mr.Diy plastic spoons and spray cans. Then try out painting them. Ask away if you have more questions and what route you decided to go with.

Here's me testing out the colors of the paint.

Wow thanks a bunch for the info. A lot to read up. So far, I've ordered a Tallgeese. But i don't really see any water decals for the Barbatos or this Tallgeese HG.
I think i wanna try doing a matte coat then some weathering first, before I consider going into paint jobs then. Any tips for weathering?

Where are you located btw ? i would highly advise you to visit a local hobby store to get hands on tips

hi, sorry I hijack a bit.

i stay at Ampang. which hobby store would you recommend?

also does Godhand nipper really cuts without leaving any stress mark? my current nipper leaves lots of stress mark. really stressing me.

first time gunpla builder here. pls be gentle.

also, may if Godhand nipper is really recommended which specific model shud i get as i see it has so many model/type. and what's the RRP for it?

This post has been edited by karwaidotnet: Mar 15 2021, 07:39 AM

1) Ampang - go to Angel Trend Trading OR PLA + Studio . These 2 will be nearest to you.

2 ) Nipper - i would advise you to try AT nipper or YT Kojo nipper ( all above RM100) . Local brand but damn sharp single blade. Please dont use single blade nippers with clear plastic parts as they will break.

3) and follow awesome toys tv for gunpla news (shameless self plug)

look at what Carpathia said below. Meanwhile, for me, I prefer light weathering. It depends what level of weathering you're going for. The best advice for weathering is always "less is more". It's very easy to go too heavy on weathering.

Carpathia is right here, it might be beneficial to visit a hobby store, they can straight away recommend tools or paints that you need for weathering and give you some good tips.

Honestly, godhands are not really recommended for beginners. You'll see a lot of photos of people breaking their godhand nippers. Try some local brands like what Carpathia said, I personally started using AT Abe-Sado nipper and it's pretty good. Godhands are good but it's very fragile and it doesn't mean that you won't need to do any cleaning up, just less......