OH... ok... thanx man...

Spread wing one by one? Ok, got it!

To all sifus here, need your help......
I've done some HG gundam before, never bother to paint them, just cut out and snap em on ! Now that I've gotten myself a MG Titan MK-II, would really like to build it nicely. I've been following the posts here, very informative stuff, in fact some are really too "deep" for me to understand, ok, here goes:

1. Can I use the Mr. Surfacer to cover the gap lines between 2 parts snap together (called seams right?)

2. Can Mr Surfacer act as primer or base coat before painting?

3. I don't have airbrush, and model spray paint are hard to come by here in where i live. So if using industry spray, what should i take note of?

4. Will flat topcoat cover up the glossy feel of paint?

Thanks.

1. yes, lines can be less obvious after mr.surfacer depends which 1 u use. (I would recommend you to use super glue or tamiya basic putty to cover those lines)
2. It is a base coat.
3. Industry spray cans are not recommended as they tend melt ur gundam plastic. you still can use them but make sure u spray it at a distance.
4. Flat topcoat will cover up gloss effect.

This post has been edited by Kyoshiro: Aug 12 2007, 01:09 PM

1. mr surfacer cannot cover seam...u need either super glue, cement, or putty to cover seams...

2. mr surfacer IS a primer...

3. like people said...its not recommended. sometimes it melt the plastic and sometimes i wont...
depends on the brand i think and also your luck...where you live anyway?

4. topcoat flat will change ur glossy plastic feel into dull effect...basically yes..i do cover glossy..

i just primed my model, but the surface turn out to be a bit sandy (not smooth), which can be felt with my hands.

I wonder is this normal or something wrong i did. I use bottle tamiya primer thinned with 3:2 ratio with lacquar thinner.

do i need to sand it before i start painting ? thanks

Thanks for the replies guys, I live in Sarawak. You guys mentioned using super glue to cover up seams, any guide to do that? Won't super glue create those white mark once it's curing?

If I cover up the kits with Mr. Surfacer first, will that help in preventing those industry paint melting the plastic?

yes..super glue does leave those white marks after dry...but you going to prime it what after that...then paint it...so no worries about that white thing lo

even with surfacer...you will still have the risk of melting...
surfacer just to make your paint stick better on the plastic...not to prevent from melting or make your plastic stronger

OK, looks like that I should start ordering some gundam spray can paint soon, or is there any alternative spray paint for modeling that is easy to get and reasonably priced?

Also, is the Tamiya plastic cement meant for advanced modeler or can also be used by beginner like me?

Thanks.

tamiya cement or whatever cement for model kits can be use by anyone...expert or beginner a like...it just a glue for plastic anyway...

gundam kits never use any cement at all or sometimes use very little cement...but tamiya model like cars, tanks all that, then cement is a must

This post has been edited by VincC454: Aug 13 2007, 02:19 PM

i not sure la...my sifu says boleh guna industrial paint...wanna try...but havent see how nice the results is...

industrial srpay cans can use, there are better ones on sale in hardware shops. but be sure to use it carefully. i've never tired using those b4 coz i'm afraid they wont turn out great as in having those bubbles coming out or tears drop.

i really wanna ask le... inudstrial paint as good as hobby paints? coz damn hobby paints are expensive...maybe one colour can lar...but too many...no way...lol.

FINALLY, I have manage to take my courage to try Lacquer Paint with AB. I just test up the front silver part of my OP truck. This is the first time i successfully:

PRIMER + LACQUER PAINT + TOPCOAT Gloss

The paint feel so solid and durable. GOod satisfaction Although somehow.. I get this kind of rough surface on certain parts.. Im not sure is it bcause i sprayed too far.. thus the paint dry b4 reaching d surface of d model.. or bcause of the dusty surrounding.

The silver paint on the truck front doesnt really turn out like CHrome.. (but still better than original grey plastic). I tried another technique on the Tanks at both side of the truck with... Chrome markers + Topcoat Gloss. The effect is nice.. but i can only apply that to small parts. As markers tend to leave ugly brush strokes on the large surface. I still left the Big LOWER TANKS unpainted and was wondering which technique should i use.

After finishing all the CHrome parts.. I was thinking to make the Truck Bonnet (the blue yellow flame part) glossy. If any1 has OP leader class like this, u will notice some parts of d truck is painted with really glossy finish. while some other parts are just unpainted mold colour...very plastic. I wonder how to make these part to have the glossy effect as the originally painted parts. The way I use TOPCOAT GLOSS on the silver surface doesnt seem to show the Hi GLoss effect. or should i Spray SUper Clear on it first, follow by TOPcoat?

I wan the Gloss effect like EVA REvoltech series. Gloss n look heavy..

Sifu.. pls comment


Meantime.. im also starting on my rx 78 oyw project .. but With Handpainting with Tamiya Acrylic... Can see some brush stroke marks.. Anyway..i might make some wheatering effect to it.. so hope those can cover them up.


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Actually I was thinking to use cement for the plastic to melt and bond together, then sand it (so that I can cut the step of putty filling the seams) and straight on spraying color to the kits. Will that work?

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Added on August 14, 2007, 12:59 amMay I know waht brand are you refering to?

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Added on August 14, 2007, 1:05 amclivengu, I really salute you, untill now I don't dare to hand paint my kits. And that's why my kits are still lying around unassembled coz I have no AB.

This post has been edited by jlkueh: Aug 14 2007, 01:05 AM

industrial paint wont be as good as hobby paint. i was told that they are thicker n tends to cover up details so it's not recommended to use it on model kits.
I'm not sure which brand is suitable to paint model kits, but as far as i know most industrial paints melts plastics, this is told by this tauke of grafiti and one of my fren told me that he tried but it doesnt turn out great, he din mention bout the brand though.

2 different thing...and their price different for a reason

industrial paint are made for multipurpose or heavy duty usage...so the pressure are stronger and also the paint are more strong against kits plastic.

model spray are made for model kit plastic...so they are mild and wont harm your plastic even if you accidentally spray them too much.

same goes with hardware thinner and model thinner...
hardware thinner can be use for clean up btw.

about ur cement question..yea that will work.

and no need to wait till you got AB only start assemble your gunpla...just assemble them first...and can always paint later...
wanna wait for ab, considering their price, calculating your budget...then your gunpla will never see the light of being build at all

You are mighty right on that on, I've got one mg sazabi still in sealed plastic bag since 2004.

By the way, can some one pls enlighten me on the below:

acrylic-->water base-->use ?? thinner
lacquer--> ?? base--> use ?? thinner
enamel-->oil based--> use ?? thinner

Thanks.

let me try to help u out

Acrylic:
-water base
-can be dilute with water
-can be strip using washing detergent

Lacquer:
-( not sure .... some kind of thinner base .. )
-can be dilute with hardware shop thinner
-can be strip using back the dilute thinner

Enamel:
-oil base
-can dilute and strip with lighter fluid

acrylic use acrylic thinner...

lacquer use normal hobby paint thinner...those like mr hobby thinner or leveling thinner

enamel can always use zippo liquid as a thinner

This is what I used so far.