this r the effect after those wat i did...

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Added on August 26, 2007, 11:21 ami understand...that's y this thread are for....giving guidance n let them improve ma.....

like the tank that sooyewguan did, if didnt giv flat coat plus enamel wash effect...the tank will be wasted...

i just hope him to success in his 1st tank built...this may giv alot of encouragement to him....

This post has been edited by sunnyboy: Aug 26 2007, 11:21 AM

erm, today i take out my MG SF for some cleaning n......i broke the stick-like thingy on the rifle.



da silver-colored stick. so how can i effectively fix it? actually it's already broken few months ago, n i used cement to fix it. it seems alrite, but then suddenly it break today...

gotta use my OOB pic to get tat part coz din snap a pic of it jz now.

This post has been edited by ShinAsakura: Sep 5 2007, 12:48 AM

whats the different between top coat and clear coat tin spray from mr hobby ?



This post has been edited by sooyewguan: Sep 5 2007, 05:44 PM

i oso had been wondered wt ur question before..

the blue tin one is definitely for top coating.
actually both oso same purpose.

but if i'm not wrong, the right (grey color tin) one is more expensif coz got uv protective agent.
i believe it shud serve a better protective layer against an underlying paint from UV, such as yellowing or discoloring.

i also wish i can do well in my first tank. i will use this as my try and error model to apply some weathering techniques and practice my skills. Already bought another M1A1 Aim last week hope to get better result this time.

Here the tracks for my panzer after some pastel powder. Did some drybrush on the tank also but its too ugly to show


anyone can suggest wat color normally used for rust during drybrush?? I tried dark copper but the result wasnt really good

This post has been edited by sooyewguan: Sep 5 2007, 06:20 PM

u can try orange tone color for the rust effect.

anyway, i think u did a great job on the tracks~!!!

This post has been edited by StormV: Sep 5 2007, 10:52 PM

Cools The tracks looks pretty good

What kinda paints r u using btw? I'm asking 'cause of the tricks that can be done by using different paint types for different purposes.

For example: what I would do for the tank tracks is to start by giving it a pristine color, using lacquers. Then switch over to something like acrylics (or pastels like u did) for the rust effect, then finally take acrylics mixed with baby powder (to give it more texture) and dab it onto the tracks to simulate builtup of mud. This way, should I mess up, I can just dip the whole thing into alcohol to remove the weathering effects while keeping the original layer of lacquer paints intact, then start again.

For rust, there's no one color. Orange like what StormV suggested is good, u can also try various mixes of colors to it. Some areas, use the dark copper that u've tried before, some areas, use orange, some areas, use a mix of dark copper + orange, and some areas, u might wanna mix in a bit of black as well.

sooyewguan,
I think u better head over to these guys in ScaleModelsMalaysia ... there are more concentrated AFV lover over there ... aka Cineleisure Workshop Guys .... their site:

http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...dex.php?act=idx

btw ur Rusty Track look great ... your tank just step into a muddy pot hole? ...

i have a question. for gunpla, if i don't sand the surface and straight applying primer (by brush not can spray) will the primer "sticks" onto the surface?

yup, it'll stick. The sanding before priming is only to remove any visible markings, or rough spots from when u cut the piece out of the runner.

But keep in mind that applying the primer using a brush can be rather difficult due to the quick drying nature of the primer making it difficult not to have brush marks on the plastic. (I'm assuming that u're using Mr. Surfacer). U'll need to have it thinned down quite a bit (and then u need to be careful not to thin too much otherwise u'll risk having the thinner attack the plastic).

thank you for the input. i'll keep in mind regarding the brush marks. can't wait till i get my paints ^___^

i am using acrylic paint on the track and the pastel i mixed with some drops of thinner to make it stick better. didnt using enamel paint because its really expensive compare to acrylic or lacquar.

lol...enamel is expensive...and little also

Finally ..





Wanna add rust and rain mark but dunno how, so i guess this is consider finished for currently time.

This post has been edited by sooyewguan: Sep 7 2007, 04:17 PM

[/QUOTE]sooyewguan Sep 5 2007, 05:43 PM
whats the different between top coat and clear coat tin spray from mr hobby ?


Hi Sooyewguan, as i know the blue one is oil base and the gray can is waterbase. I dont have much experience in this matter usually i airbrush coating. However, once i use thewaterbase (gray can) coating on top of a very thin layer of gunze acrylic paint, the coat melted the paint. so i can visually see dots on my kit. The top paint is white, and the underneath paint was gray. So the whole thing was like with gray pocky dots all over it.
Since then, i never use can spray coating.

Hope that helps. Also please lemme know after you try it. I m curious to know too.

This post has been edited by rayloke: Sep 7 2007, 04:19 PM

actually both both them is water based, it was writen on the can. I never tried grey one yet. However, i am using blue one on my model, which had lacquar and acrylic paint on it, so far everything looks fine luckly.

Guess this grey can's thinner is bit strong until melting the paint ?

WOW... i like the mud effect.. very nice..

Looks good. For the rust effect, first look at where to start on that.

Looking at your model, I can see some spots where the paint has came off (the silverish looking spots near the edges). That's normally where u start on the rust effect, as its those spots that's no longer covered by paint that's where the rusting starts.

I'm assuming u did a dry brush for such spots? If u did, then just build the rust effect on top of such areas, but using either acrylics mixed with baby powder or using pastels to get more texture so its easier to differentiate between the metal and the rust. Start off with a darker color (maybe black + copper), then build it up to a lighter color as u go along.

Then the rain mark, u can build on top of that after. Basically trails coming down, especially at the rusted areas where the rain marks r stained by rust.

I thought the blue can supposed to be water-based while grey can is solvent-based?

Oops! r28, you'r right! bad me..... he he wrong info