hi, I am looking for a chrome paint but the closest i can find is metallic silver.

Anyone know how to get better results than metallic silver ?

I'm also looking for Chorme paint.. so far.. the best i come across is the gundam marker: GM100(300).. introduce by XL staff.. Good service..at first i donno n want to bought the Silver Marker..than he introduce me this.. n even test out for me.

The Result are quite good..compare to other metalic paint.. but there are 2 problems with dis marker:

1st. the metal paint wont really dry ..n can be easily wipe away by ur hand.. so you must coat it ..
2nd: very good for small parts like guns.. details.. anything bigger than a surface of 1 inch x inch you can easily see the pen stroke.

i need u guys help me out a little...i want to paint my infinite justice...but thn i scared i screw things up...so i want to get a model gd and paint with industrial paint ... test it out first...the problem is...model gd can fix anot...i got a lwdragon one b4...cant fix at all le...lol...

does spraying flat top coat on a kit that has no paint gives any effect?
does it take away those shiny plastic feel?

This post has been edited by beckzaidan: Aug 6 2007, 10:10 AM

its does flatten the shiny plastic feel but not sure how much if compared to the painted kits..
u may want to try this way i guess:
1. clear coat of gloss or semi gloss on ur snap fitted kits.
2. do the lining and decals.
3. flat coat it.

its similar technique to painted kits w/o painting it.

u can always try on spare sprue 1st and c the results or any sd's if u have..

have fun..

yeah. i read about it at dannychoos, the no paint technique... but cant understand it really well coz its in japan...

i think i'm gonna give that technique a try... only the problem is, HG is so small... sanding is hell...

u sand using the banzai free hand or using self made sanding sticks?
i use both style, sticks for larger areas and the banzai fold sand paper for tight spots..
for me, HG quite ok lar, but if u do cars and want the make the details better, i feel that my eyes gonna popped out of the socket for details of the undercarriage and parts that will be fitted under the car where no one would see..

Hi, I just wanna make something clear before start painting my first tank model. After reading posting from all expert here, I concluded the steps as below.

Step 1: Prime
Paint use: Mr Color Prime 1000, 1200, Tamiya Prime etc.

Step 2: Base Color
Paint use: Lacquer type

Step 3: Weathering
Paint use: Acrylic type

Step 4: TopCoat

There is an enamel type and saw someone use it for weathering also. Please correct me if i am wrong.

its actually a mr surfacer 500/1000/1200

and actually whatever type of paint also can...doesnt mean only can us lacquer type

do weathering is a hard stuff...especially when you never done it before...so take it slowly

and for tank model...better make sure u topcoat it with flat

I think it is best to use lacquer as base, and enamel for weathering. Coz, u can use Zippo fluid(substitute for enamel thinner) to perform wash technique, and the Zippo fluid won't react to lacquer base and it won't crack plastic.

Of coz u can use Acrylic as weathering but u need to get acrylic thinner to perform wash.

and u can try chalk pastel as weathering tool, it work great on tanks~!!!

hope this help~!! and happy modeling~!!

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Added on August 6, 2007, 5:25 pmif u using Airbrush, u can go for Gunze Mr-Color SM06-Chrome Silver.



This post has been edited by StormV: Aug 6 2007, 05:27 PM

Thank you for the info.

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Added on August 6, 2007, 6:09 pmthank you. i heard bout chalk pastel for weathering but never saw the real thing before. is it the same chalk that use in the class room or special for modelling only ? where do they usually sold ?

This post has been edited by sooyewguan: Aug 6 2007, 06:09 PM

you can use those normal pastel for drawing one for model kits also..but of course u need to topcoat it cause the color can come off one if you not.

chalk pastel and i dont mean those buncho style crayon...lol
pastel can get at art shop and those big big stationary shop

I want to try using Mr surfacer 1200 with my Airbrush. (nvr try lacquer paint for AB b4) but do i still need to add Mr surfacer with thinner? or can i just use it directly from the bottle?

add with thinner...i hate using surfacer with AB...it somehow always clog my AB and hard to clear it back

me always end up with the spray can only...but bloody expensive one can and most of the time we use surfacer alot!

me too having problem often wt surfacer clogging in AB..

any tips to handle this type of problem?

add more thinner, adjust needle position or whatelse?

How bout using AB like this ? think will reduce the clog

^ thing the same problem happens to all type of AB..the clog happen at the tips end of the gun...so wherever the feeding cup is located also..think it wont solve the problem primer clogging the AB

i see, thought it was bcoz of neddle to cause to clog. thanks

This post has been edited by sooyewguan: Aug 7 2007, 02:39 PM

i always prime my kits with AB, no clogging problem for me. I will use 1000/1200 primer, then thin it with Mr-Color thinner 1:1 ratio. Then wash it immediately after usage using industrial thinner. The spray can is too smelly and very waste.

if u can afford try to get a 0.5mm single action AB specially for priming purpose.

btw, here is what a chalk pastel look like.



and here is the weathering product by Tamiya..."especially" for model kit.



This post has been edited by StormV: Aug 7 2007, 04:08 PM

Will the primer become too dilute if add in 1:1 ratio thinner?

And by the way, how much is that chalk pastel and also Tamiya branded one?
Can share the price here?
Thanks.