not necessarily...

but larger capacity/upsize, that will help a lot...

oh my god, thank you for telling me.

I didnt know got few different specs

So far, none of the shop i know sell camel. Got a lot of them sell Varta though, even got a larger Varta unit.

Oooppps I think I must add a qualification to that post. A good battery charger must be able to raise the specific gravity to 1.27, to indicate 100% State-of-Charge. Inability to do so, would suggest an inappropriate battery charger for the job or the lead-acid battery has suffered way too much sulfation internally for it to retain its galvanic properties.

At the end of the day, I think trying to maintain the chemical properties inside the battery is of primary importance. My suspicions is that, if that is even "possible", then lead-acid battery can most plausibly last indefinitely. At least thats my hope and at the moment, only Veejay has proven that its possible with an even longer lifespan of 81 months.

For now I have 2 other batteries thats fast approach 3 years, time will tell. However I wonder if size of the battery would make any difference say NS40ZL against DIN88 under same operating conditions. Hmmm

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Oct 23 2019, 04:50 PM

Certainly....my NS60R battery can only last less than 2 yrs but my DIN100 still kicking after 3.5 yrs

The battery SOH reach 56% still can last for how long?

What the minimum % before it die....

May I know your NS60 is it high life?

Do u have any reading on the Impedance/ressistance of the battery? The impedance will determine the % of the performance loss during cranking. High impedance will result lower power cranking capability.

Uh, based on what I heard from the tech dudes from the manufacturers. According to them, SG 1.27 is considered overcharged(which will result faster plate corrosion) already.
Our local climate suggest using the SG 1.25 not SG 1.27. As the SG 1.27 is needed for those area which has winter season (to prevent the electrolyte in battery from freezing during winter).

This post has been edited by yhsiau: Oct 26 2019, 10:29 PM

375 CCA, SOC 98%, R=7.98, 12.84 V, SOH = 56%
Last mth reading, 395 CCA, SOC 98%, R=7.54, 12.82 V, SOH=62%

I'm using Amaron high life pro on my old Persona. During usage of 2 years, the SOH still good, now is 2 years and 3 months, can see the SoH keep dropping... with some acid flow out on cover. Sign of end soon... i just hope can last few more months....

You're using the unsealed battery? What would you recommend for a regular sedan but im also a power user in that even my laptop is already 260W, and planning to get an inverter capable of continuous 2KW+ though mostly for passenger to use when driving (will ask workshop to run separate wire with the right terminal inside). Though not planning to use a lot of power when the engine is off, only thing to power before starting the engine are the dash cams (planning on front and back), and a custom reverse camera (screen + camera) which would get powered when the key is inserted.

Any way to replace the electrodes after it wears out or must the whole battery be replaced? I'd like to do DIY but supercaps cost a lot, was thinking of having a supercap + NIMH solution in the future when i have money as i can do the circuit part myself even the assembly, only thing is the caps itself are very very expensive.

They might use lithium in the west, but in malaysia i find lithium to be a poor solution since it tends to go bad faster.

I gave up trying to look for a battery that’ll last 4 years. For some reason the original battery that comes with the car lasts 3-5 years (Bmw and vw in my case). I tried replacing with the highest spec I can find.. even Varta agm which costs 1.6k, and it died after 2 years. For vw it’s worse, can last probably 1 year or slightly more. I’m charging the vw battery regularly so it has been 1.5 years, don’t know how long I can push it. Battery on vw is Exide. Before this was Varta.

This post has been edited by p_otential_c: Oct 27 2019, 10:27 AM

sit on the rear trunk of your BMW and the another one sit on your front engine bay of your VW?
that's normal if without top up charge every few months.

VArta or Varta aftermarket AGM here in Malaysia is not from the German Varta, it's manufactured by the same Korean factory (Johnson Control Delkor) that manufacture Delkor, GP, Bosch, Energizer and some other sticker brands

Based on the impedance reading, it's still in good shape. It might probably last for another 2 - 4 months(my estimations). If it hit below 300cca or the impedance reading is more than 10, your will notice that the cranking is slow during starting the vehicle.

This post has been edited by yhsiau: Oct 27 2019, 11:44 AM

I'm using those maintenance free battery, which is sealed.

My car all stock, no dash cam, no HID light, even headlight also not always on. I almost drive everyday more than half an hour. But still it won't last very long.

Thanks, bro. This is nice info.

Because the device straightaway stated 'Replace' , and the staff ask me to change as well, make me uncomfortable.

Lot of people manage to use Amaron almost 3 years or more...

I manage to find my old photo which i snap before i change my last battery, SOH =7%, SOC 98%, 12.62V, 115A, Rated 425A.

I notice my current battery when new SOH is 88%, should it be 100%?

You and those tech guys are right. It was my mistake for not taking into account the climate that we are in. Perhaps what I should have written is that the readings should be on the green zone, instead of the white or the red zone. 😊

Currently using Yamasaki Super Power NS60/L battery in a 2001 Honda Accord, already more than 2 years and still going strong, not maintenance free and have to top up battery water if you see the fluid level is getting low.

I always trickle charge it every 4 months. Disconnect the negative terminal if going for holiday and not driving. The car always go on short trip only to nearby shops, and still can use.. hope it will last 3 years or more.

This post has been edited by ghostcommand: Oct 27 2019, 04:53 PM

I have never tried to change the electrolyte before. What I have heard is that, this is a common practice of resellers of used lead-acid batteries with no warranty whatsoever.

A better practice would be to follow the manufacturer recommendation instead. Personally having a DC on 24/7 is not economical I guess. A good battery must be able to hold its charge after charging it up. If it ain't doing that, then something has gone wrong with that particular battery.

Eliminate sulfation, its a yes and no answer. It will most likely to be able to breakdown newly formed lead sulphate crystals, instead of the old hardened lead sulphate crystals that has built up overtime.

VARTA AGM died after 2 years ! 😨😨😨 That's a shocker.

Ah that clarifies things! Thanks

@outpace now can you tell me if they’re specced the same? Pretty sure Bosch costs way cheaper vs varta. If it’s the same factory why should I pay extra for brands sake.

This post has been edited by p_otential_c: Oct 27 2019, 05:36 PM

What I would do is, when the battery fails to crank the car, immediately measure the battery's CCA reading. That would be use as a basis of comparison, so that when the next battery CCA gets nearer to the failed CCA reading, that would be the time to change out the battery. Of course there are many other reasons that would spoil a battery but having a base for comparison takes out a lot of guess work. 😊

Your battery should be DIN55R right ?