Thanks mate.

What about Camel EFB & AGM Batteries ?

Buy new every 2 years, peace of mind.

The only real peace of mind is to retire the battery, when its warranty period ends. Should anything happen for example like a battery explosion after the warranty period, then I guess its tough luck.

So that's the trick. Been wondering about it for a long time now. 😁 Thank you bro.

That's what I have been doing all these while....

AGM and EFB should be 1 Yr

AGM can last beyond 1 year la, even EFB more inferior also can last that....

If you're doing precautionary procedure like this all along, either :
1) you're loaded enough to do that, consider changing battery like yearly insurance policy premium
2) you're chose a battery size smaller than required, thereby draining the battery much faster
3) you're car has some phantom load, draining the battery unnecessarily after shutting the car off
4) you're car only go for supermarket drive, per drive timing before turning off within 10 minutes, car haven't fully warmed up already reached destination

So which you belong?

currently im running on amaron battery for 2+ years... so far so good...

Whomever is selling you batteries must love you much as his customer. Maybe I should start selling batteries too. 😊

I was referring to the warranty period bro....

Even Varta offers 1 year warranty for AGM DIN100 for my dad's F10

Understand. That's the problem with communicating online. 😊

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Oct 18 2019, 10:16 AM

Do old carburettor cars have better lasting battery than modern EFI cars?

Not necessarily longer lasting as old car has its own set of problem

Poor alternator output
Bad ground
Parasitic/phantom load due to old wires
Etc etc

But if everything is in good shape, carb car should hv less electrical load than an EFI car, thus longer alternator n battery life.... barring manufacturing defects on batt n alternator

What's the mileage over these 4 yrs? No point lasting 4 yrs when it's used only 3 months once or so....

Good question bro., mileage.

I have tried using that method before running the car every 1~2 months but ended up losing the batteries instead over the years. Definately due to stratification and sulfation. Even with the negative terminal disconnected, I thought it would make a difference, alas no !

Really regret not taking down the mileage during installation of the battery that lasted 4 years. Now every new battery is dated with its mileage recorded during installation as well.

Wait a minute about data, if I am not mistaken its our bro. Veejay whom has achieved 81 months with 15,000 mileage on average per year with Century Marathoner NS70L on his Sorento, if I had interpreted that correctly.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Oct 18 2019, 03:51 PM

i wish i could help you here, but all i can say is that it depends on the type of battery and its manufacturing, and how well you care for it.

For type you have sealed and unsealed. Sealed will last for usually 2 years or more, while unsealed you need to top up every no and then but will last longer, countered by battery fluid costs, so thats something to consider. people consider time important and dont like to open the bonnet to top up the battery or do the usual maintenance checks. Also when you change your battery, most places will sell you a sealed unit.

For taking care of your battery, turn off as much stuff as you can when you leave the car or turn the engine on. The less load you put on your battery, the longer it lasts. Its not just heat and humidity (which can make unsealed batteries even worse), but how much of the battery is actually used. Thats why if you leave the car sitting for longer it can reduce the life span of your battery. The life span of a battery is calculated by watt hours total over a period before it starts to degrade from time. For example lithium is said to be 500 charges or 5 years before it starts to degrade, this means that after you have discharged and charged it 500 times in total (if you only use 50% capacity thats 1000 times), then it will degrade after. So battery care actually places a more important role. Before you plug that key in, make sure your AC is off, lights, everything, even what you plug into the cig lighter or any other electronics you can turn off.

Lead acid batteries used by cars can handle higher amp drains for shorter periods of times, but have a lot less capacity, so draining the capacity like as if its a regular NIMH or Lithium battery is a bad idea.

In the US there is a very good recycling facility for batteries, everything of the battery is recycled.

Start stop cars also need a better battery too, so this would be an important point to separate when gathering data. Hybrids will simply use the lithium (or NIMH in the case of toyota) for the engine as the huge packs of batteries, and perhaps if they did add capacitors for the load will do the job better. There are attempts at using super caps mixed with lithium so the caps are used to start the car while the lithium keeps the alarm and computer powered when the engine is off. It was found to be lighter and more efficient in fuel too with the start being instant.

Bro., you've been a great help and you don't even know that ! 😊 Thanks man, what you have written reinforces what I have been thinking.

I do acknowledge that other countries has strict guidelines about used lead-acid batteries and I am still trying to figure out what actually happens these batteries here, once they are done.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Oct 21 2019, 06:06 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJhJ5TfQ6DU
This would be the best replacement for modern day cars to get that 5-10 year battery life period we used to get long ago. For malaysia i would suggest NIMH over lithium. It not only is lighter than lead acid but even better when starting the engine and more efficient.

The only limitation is that you cant have a higher amp drain over a long time period like you can with lead acid battery if you plan to strap a KW inverter to it to power something else. The design is very similar to those portable engine starters when your battery is too weak, as its just a small battery with a bunch of super caps.

Amaron battery for Honda city 2015 typically comes with how many years of warranty?

A shop offered me only rm 170 while the rest rm 200+, is the shop trustable?

And amaron battery seems to be recommended by many and last longer.

But how about varta?

My 2 cents on car battery

Batteries hate:
- heat
- low charge (below 80% for car battery)
- deep discharge (0%)
- hard work (under-specced batteries work harder)

So, if you want a long lasting battery
- relocate battery to the boot (if possible)
- drive everyday and more than 15 mins per trip
- trickle charge your battery when you dont drive
- get a more powerful battery than the OEM spec

Following these tips, you may get 3-6 years of battery life

If I not mistaken, Amaron has 3 specs ...low, medium and high spec....the only that selling RM170 could be the lowest spec....(I could be wrong)

Try camel la...cheap cheap...city only use ns40zl...got 18 months warranty somemore