i think its more to do with the car rather than heat. And i think however those that use the same brands in different config found differences because of manufacturing shifts, like when the germans decided not to make reliable cars anymore.

Perhaps your cars has a better design that allows the dissipation of heat or the flow of air from the engine. Example some batteries are located at the front behind the headlights at a lowered section like in Toyota Corona TT141 with a big engine bay with lots of space that prevents heat from reaching the battery. Whereas some makes, the batteries is located higher up in the engine bay example infront of the instrument panel like in the Ertiga or compact car with smaller engine bays, heat will always be the main issue.

Plus bigger sized batteries with higher power or capacity should always outperform smaller sized batteries. That is why a forummer here, is always encouraging others to select a battery with a higher capacity provided its compatible with the charging system example a Wira can accommodate both the NS60 size plus the NS70 as well.

Since we are on heat which is closely related to the environment, anyone here staying in Cameron Highlands. Can you please share your battery lifespan, battery size and type of battery plus car make.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Nov 1 2019, 05:11 PM

My last Regular Flooded Century Battery NS40ZL in my workhorse lasted a cool 4 years, thanks to Lowyat expert forrumers, without them, my batteries wouldn't have passed 2 years. One must be extremely diligent in the care of the electrolyte. I was religously monitoring the electrolyte level every week.

The current new Regular Flooded Century Battery NS40ZL is 7 months now, hopefully with the same care, it will last another 3 years 5 months. After which, I instend to try out Maintenance Free Batteries which does not require religiously monitoring of electrolytes. Life too short. 😊

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Nov 1 2019, 05:08 PM

Any driver that constantly subject the battery to all kinds of unnecessary loads, being in the boot ain't going to make any difference. With the economy in a nose dive, the funniest remarks I've heard is that the the rich with their expensive rides, wanting to save, insists battery sellers to install an under sized battery, just to save a buck or two.

Century's Warranty Card specifically states the warranty is void, if an under sized battery is used. Usually after that no 1 year experience, the customer will usually change to another brand.

My car battery as well - very good & long last. The brand of Varta; came original with the car.
My car with start stop function.

mind to share how u prolong the battery life? tq

Price is always subjective, depends on how much of premium that user willing to pay right? Starbucks might be sourcing cake from the local bakery but selling price aren't the same for sure.
Of course, these brands do have different specifications in play, hence the differences in price.

CCA isn't everything, especially when longevity is what we concern, if I'm not wrong, there are ways of making a lead acid battery to pump up higher CCA but sacrificing lifespan, the frame structure within, the acidic level of the electrolyte or something like that.




How do you get the idle power use of the car, say for 12 hours, how to get the 10W?

That's why most of the sifus here who are able to stretch the lifespan of their normal flooded lead acid battery to many years are those who frequently charge their battery.
Let's not talk about those AGM sitting at the back of the car comfortably, cars like BMW, Audi, and BENZ. These AGMs are designed to be lasting very long time with better deep cycleability, but AGM also dig deeper from their owner's pocket, but I think it's worth to have them.


Look forward for your project bro NIMH supercap hybrid
there have been many trying for many years to get alternative for heavy and clumsy lead acid battery, but the fossil burning cars still not running away from the lead acid

From what I have read, heat is a very big part together with "undercharging" (draining by parasite draw, frequent short distance travel) that form the failing equation.

Your small GP sealed battery probably is and AGM or GEL battery, or deep cycle battery that have thicker plate therein.
It's different from the very thinly plated SLI batteries in the car.

Sure, am also looking at alkaline metal based using salt water as well, they both show good promise but i wont be able to do them if i dont get a job.
Supercaps are the best way to reduce the CCA need, since it doesnt matter what battery you use with it, the supercaps provide a lot of amps but not much voltage as the voltage drop follows an inverse square drop which is big.
Actually for the lifespan of the lead acid battery, you need more lead for higher CCA. The more surface area of lead you have, the higher the amp output you can have. The capacity of a battery is determined by its electrolytes so size matters because of how much you can fill, but the terminals have a surface area for electrons to pass through so that limits the flow of amps there. Lead acid is different in that high amps will significantly reduce capacity temporarely as the charges need to even out. So if a lead acid battery outputs a lot of amps, it will pull the electrons closest to the terminals while the rest of the electrolyte needs to react to pass electrons to even it out which takes time. It seems that lead acid is used for cars because its the kind of battery that likes to be charged when other batteries are the opposite in nature. since now cars are filled with computers, nothing wrong with the battery having its own for charging and managing its charge level and when to recharge.

the small GP sealed battery is approximately 100Wh.though i wouldnt say it didnt have heat. It was placed close to the ceiling which is where the temperature is higher, inside a case containing a larger transformer so heat wise theres plenty, but its used in small drain only as backup power.

I didnt get the idle power, its the typical power an efficient laptop uses when you are doing basic tasks with it like emails, documents. Since the battery is used with sensors and such i can estimate how long it is for a car, and 10W is considered efficient. Typically we are looking at 0.5W or lower for a car when it is turned off, with the only thing running being the alarm which only has to check if a circuit is connected, so thats very efficient, along with momentary LED usage. Screens use a lot of power so even 1W is a reasonable estimate as well as some depend on the car's design as well. So with 300Wh being the usable amount of power, 1W can mean 300 hours which is 2 weeks though it could go a lot longer, especially if the draw is lower. What i find is that the reason for the battery lifespawn to shorted in the case where you leave the car for a month is that when you get to the low capacities long, you get sulphation where suplhur from the acid coats on the therminals in an ionic bond which isnt easy to separate. So you can recover some lead acid batteries that have weakened because of being left on low drain for long and it can be really tough to break the sulphur away. So batteries die not because the lead desolve since most of the time its caused by sulphur fully coating the terminal with the electrolyte turning to gas. Looking at the molecular composition, when the sulphur bonds to the terminal, hydrogen is released and the acid concentration decreases.

I posted a 2 or 3 part series on how to prolong the lifespan before somewhere on Lowyat Forum. Sorry I cannot recall exactly where but you would have to search for it. Just that I haven't put down in writing the last series that is, When does one retire a battery. 😊

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Nov 2 2019, 03:12 PM

I reckon that would be to total surface area of all the positive and negative plates, minus the hardcore lead sulphate.

Someone posted earlier that a battery test was done and was recommended to replace the battery. Whether the technician was telling the truth or otherwise, we wouldn't know. What is more important is when the test was done, were the correct data entered.

I did a battery test for a friend and it registered Replace Battery. However this friend insisted that the battery is still in "good condition". After a month, the battery really died.

If you want your battery to last long, make sure you are not driving short distance everyday.

Does anybody know where to get RAMCAR din55r ? It seems there is nobody selling this brand in malaysia.

If I am not mistaken, this word Ramcar I have seen it on Century Battery website. Most likely what happened was that the car assembler approached a battery manufacturer to create a new battery for this particular car model. Since the production for this car model has stopped, so would the appropriate battery. However, the word Ramcar technology is what you should be looking for. Don't look for Ramcar battery anymore. 😊

A top notch DIN55R battery unit with Ramcar technology would set you back by Rm380. Curiosity got the better of me.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Nov 2 2019, 03:51 PM

Oh when I wrote taking care of electrolyte levels with 4 year battery lifespan, I sincerely meant topping of with battery water. Definately not completely changing out the old electrolytes with new electrolytes. I maybe curious but not that curious. Besides that, I dont think completely changing out the electrolytes would make any difference at all, despite whatever is found on Youtube. 😊

Bro., would you happen to know the chemical equation for the "corrosion" at the terminal ?

i figured this out after researching a bit.
total surface area is the maximum amps, terminals determine voltage (how far apart or the type of metal used), and the electrolyte determines how much capacity. Capacity is defined in Ah which is a huge unit for amps which is the rate of chargers per second which in some manner relates to the rate of electrons. Hence the more electrons we have the higher the capacity in Ah, but not Wh. voltage is the energy each charge gives off.
depends on which battery you're asking about.

The Regular Flooded Battery costs Rm190 and with a lifespan of 48 months, that works out to Rm3.985333 per month.

A friend of mine asked why is Century Marathoner more expensive than his previous MF battery. When I worked out the average costs per month, at 17 months suddenly his cheaper MF battery ain't that cheap anymore.

While I haven't used Marathoner myself, I strongly believe it is possible to smash the 48 months mark. A sweet lady her Marathoner used to last 13~14 months on average, but since she has following my advices (though not all) her last Marathoner lasted 29 months.

What is true is good no cheap and cheap no good.

Thank you your sharing for it really did strike a chord. My latest ride coming to 3 years with mileage less than 7,000, I noticed that the CCA measurement is starting to go downhill despite using every trick. Peace of mind, now thats precious. 😊

Spot on. A battery must run the miles. I was doing Melaka-Muar-Melaka before I achieved 48 months.

This post has been edited by Roman Catholic: Nov 3 2019, 08:39 AM