Thanks. I saw people selling two models of bosch tiles drill bits, CYL-9 and HEX-9.

Then I found this video.



What do you think. It looks fast but what are the disadvantages?

It looks like an improvement over the old CYL 9 ceramic, seems to have more than one cutting edge so its like a mini TBM (tunnel boring machine).
Shank wise being hex shank can go into any drill or impact driver which kinda makes good sense in terms of maximising tool compatibility since to work this tile bit you just need something that rotates (NO impact).

The only potential caveat I see in HEX-9 is the tip is not as sharp pointed as the previous CYL 9, so care need to be taken to hold the drill precisely otherwise it might skitter horizontally, you can solve this easily with masking tape and drawing a dot for the hole.

For all tile bits the heat kills the bit so although they say cooling not required, you can make a single bit last longer if you constantly cool it with a trickle of water (if it doesn't make a mess such as in bathroom, no issue with wetting the place). Bits can be used dry mode also but don't rempit them until smoke come out. My POV is either run it pure wet all the time or just pure dry mode as frequent hot cold hot cold stress the bit tip and more prone to cracking in the case of CYL-9.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Apr 5 2021, 12:25 PM

Hahaha it does "save money" especially for smaller jobs like install shelves and curtain rails. I think I made enough from a few small paid jobs (neighbours and friends) to pay for the rotary hammer itself as compared to calling contractors which naturally won't be too inclined to show up for minor minor jobs.

For Ikea kitcab as I did need to invest in additional tool i.e. circular saw to chop the countertop and cut out the sink hole it was just over half of what the usual installation fee circa RM600 would cost.
Ignoring the cost of the rotary hammer since other jobs already paid for it

I cannot agree more. It saved money at least initially. It is true pay contractor is more for than to buy cheap drill. I owned the hammer drill and it still cost less after few jobs around the house. Then you find out you need more specific tools for specific job because it is easier than older tool. Like rotary hammer drill can do jobs 1/10 faster than hammer drill in certain job.

At the end I have many tools. that I probably used once or twice in a year, like circular saw, planer, etc. Still restraining my self from buying table saw

Tools cost probably more now than paying contractor but I still get satisfaction by doing myself because I do work more careful than contractor. More neat

Thanks. I'm worried about the drill skidding in the beginning of the job looking at the shape of the drill bit, but then probably masking tape would solve the problem.

I think I would buy HEX-9 first and try in places where I only need one hole. If it skid so badly, then probably I would buy CYL-9 for multiple holes job (to make sure everything is perfectly level)

How much do you normally charge for drilling a hole? I need to justify my purchase by calculating holes x price per hole

Whatever ceo684 is charging, I offering 50% less

Whatever ceo684 is charging, I am charging 50% more to myself to justify my purchase

hello all sifus, i am new to the thread, any recommendation for home DIY usage, budgeted & not so branded is acceptable.
May not use so frequent but perhaps for concrete drill & screw driver.

Hahaha the HEX-9 seems to be a newly launched product. I think you can get by with one HEX-9 bit alone.
Price actually quite variable for jobs as tile drilling take more time (5-10mins ea) and bits cost more (CYL-9) already 12-15 bucks and they wear out pretty fast.

Hahahahha I should hire you to do my house drilling!

Hard to cari makan for "tool funding" like this jor

Generally on masonry where wall plug bits are cheap, pretty cheap per hole.
If customer makes life super easy i.e. does most of the legwork i.e. premeasured and marked, I do not need to do extensive measurement and just final check levelling, and stays in same project all I have to do is basically close one eye and get the hole done it can be even cheaper

Costs more if I need to climb up and down for curtain rails.. as the measurement is a pain to get perfect level.
Tile drilling or TV bracket with drop in anchor are the expensive ones but usually it evens out the cost to about RM8-25 per hole average.
I think it will safely cover your HEX-9 bits

I see keyword "concrete"
To avoid "misery" when drilling concrete.. use rotary hammer, nowadays not that expensive already, for a confirmsure can drill a wall plug size hole.
Misery is defined as using an underpowered drill that takes 5-10 minutes per tiny hole and it is almost the end for permitted hours to drill.
With rotary hammer, you can do 8 holes easily (including climbing up and down ladder, moving the ladder, depth finetuning, pick up wall plug) within 10 mins in concrete wall. Coz each hole takes only 6 seconds for 2" 5.5mm.

199-230 bucks got choice of Daewoo, Stanley, Total..
320 bucks gets you a Bosch rotary hammer. Some seller may bundle with SDS masonry bits for few bucks more.
See for more details on rotary hammer:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=100415833

Drill driver
if Bosch can look for GSB120LI or GSR120LI if for light usage, more towards a cordless screwdriver rather than a drill (since the above-mentioned rotary hammer will cover all heavy drilling work). It is a capable screwdriver.
GSB = B for bang (impact) can drill brick wall a little bit. Has impact mode. Has reverse function. Cost bit more than GSR.
GSR = R for reverse. Has reverse function. Cheaper than GSB.

Those china amoi electrician also get by with the GSB120 - https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=211347934082616

Equivalent in the 12V class would be
STANLEY SCD121S2K - RM239 on Lazada

Cordless Tool wise its not that expensive for the tool, cost about the same as corded/wired tool for drills, the one that makes it expensive are the batteries (+charger).

This post has been edited by ceo684: Apr 5 2021, 08:53 PM

I see keyword "concrete"
To avoid "misery" when drilling concrete.. use rotary hammer, nowadays not that expensive already, for a confirmsure can drill a wall plug size hole.
Misery is defined as using an underpowered drill that takes 5-10 minutes per tiny hole and it is almost the end for permitted hours to drill.
With rotary hammer, you can do 8 holes easily (including climbing up and down ladder, moving the ladder, depth finetuning, pick up wall plug) within 10 mins in concrete wall. Coz each hole takes only 6 seconds for 2" 5.5mm.

199-230 bucks got choice of Daewoo, Stanley, Total..
320 bucks gets you a Bosch rotary hammer. Some seller may bundle with SDS masonry bits for few bucks more.

See for more details on rotary hammer:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=100415833

Thanks for the advise.

Hi I need some advise. I m a swiftlet farmer, I m thinking of adding grooves to the overhead wood planks. Shall I buy makita m1902b planer or bosch gho 6500? I'm going to use the blade that make grooves.

I like my Stanley
STEL630 with 700W and 2 year warranty
Makita M190 580W 1year(?)
Bosch GHO6500 650W and 6 months

I bought a Stanley angle grinder and an angle grinder stand with sliding function
Very nice

https://www.lazada.com.my/products/i1209760...s131474369.html

https://www.lazada.com.my/products/i1726814...6602506416.html

the sliding function of the stand is really good
with a 4" wood cutting disc, I used it to cut 4" wood planks.

I think using angle grinder as a wannabe circular saw even stand mounted is highly dangerous coz they operate very differently, the grinder is too high rpm to cut wood safely.
Why not get a circular saw instead?

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 27 2021, 08:04 PM

Get this -> https://shopee.com.my/Worx-Professional-Too...b0aAhkwEALw_wcB

With stand probably still okay. The wood to be cut is still small size. Acting more like miter saw.

If hand held, then very dangerous cut like using cutting disc to cut sheet metal. It is impossible to hold firmly perpendicular to cut material and any twist will break the cutting disc flying all on=ver the place. Most contractor just ignore the cover and even safety goggle for convenience.

A twist when using saw blade with hand will snap the grinder off your hand and can land anywhere.

angle grinder + wood cutting disc = recipe for disaster...

please avoid at all cost. it is just worth the risk.

one hand slip or even just one time the wood got stuck, it usually ends in injuries

Okay thanks for the advice everyone

I have seen contract workers using angle grinder without protection and cut their fingers off and also blind after the blade chip off.
So don't play play with angle grinder...it's a disaster awaiting to happen if not handle properly.