thx butthead. any idea of cost estimation of those keo classic or keo 2 max? browsed through Look's website and it stated there keo 2 max is for maximum power and maximum realiability..how is that differs from keo classic in terms of providing more power? hurmm..

about the carbon thrashing thingy...aah..finally..what a relieve to hear such statement..haha. my concern is on the front fork..thought it couldn't bear the rough roads..especially when you are speeding downhill..well at least I gave the bike a taste of the hills..i have not try other bikes yet but I kinda love my bike..when I push hard the frames feels responsive..catapulting me forward and forward..feels gr8! i wonder how does those super duper expensive frames feels like.

btw im gonna have my 1st long distance ride this coming weekend..around 60km..hopefully can make it.

keo2max is about RM330 i think.. classic about RM260 or so... don't constantly buy pedals but should be around there...

the keo2max has a wider pedal platform than the classic... the classic is more or less based on the same platform as the easy but with adjustability built in... also the classic has 1 less bearing to support pedal loads on the spindle i think...

the fork won't break unless you crash into a walll...carbon forks has been around since a long time ago.. in fact they were made common before carbon frames were.. only recent years they started to make full carbon forks (including the steerer is also carbon)... more expensive carbon frames would generally feel even more stiffer and responsive yet it can be forgiving on road shocks compared to alloy...

60Ks should be too hard as long as it is majority flats...

hi.

wanna ask something..

if i want to buy a bike from ebay then the package arrive at malaysia, how must i must pay for the custom duty..

anybody here buy a bike from outside malaysia?

TQ

i have bought parts before but never complete bike... too much risk on top of customs taxation issues... maybe i was lucky.. .but i never get taxed for my parts before...

check here...

http://tariff.customs.gov.my/

it states there is for bicycles except racing bicycles....

but frankly... i don't trust this... being in malaysia... you are at the mercy of the law upholders.. so if customs decides to detaine your bike and demand you to pay a fee... you can't do anything other than pay it or leave your investment to them and don't collect it...

don't know what you plan to buy... but, best bet for a complete bike is a "no go"...

double whammy for contador... saxo bank contract termination... it's logical that who wants to fork out 8mil euros for someone who isn't doing any riding for the team..

http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/cont...uspension-33133

now, here is a ride to go for... contador's fans in the town of pinto will be riding to rally for support of their national hero...



just hope they can see the road with that mass and not end up in a massive pileup...

how to train the legs to pull and push working together for efficiency paddling ?

pull and push on one leg is ok, but when come to both legs, mind cant function to ask legs to pull and push...

is this technique take years to train up?

actually it isn't a push pull method... it is more towards developing a efficient and perfect pedal stroke... and you are right... like driving a manual car... it takes time to perfect it and not just one or 2 days..

but first thing you need is at least a toe strap if not a clipless pedal...

i posted some links some pages back... but here is one which is shorter in explanation

http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutritio...ct-pedal-stroke

my lousy explanation basically, there are four pedal zones... let us us put it as 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock position

1) between 1 to 5 o'clock position, this is where you generate the most amount of power where you are pushing down on the pedals... whether you are a ankle or toe pedal sort of rider is your preference..

2) from 5 to 7 o'clock, you imagine you are dragging your feet against the ground or trying to scrap some dirt off your shoes...

3) 7 to 11 o'clock position you lift your feet up

4) 11 to 1 o'clock position you imagine you are trying to lift and flick your feet over an obstacle and return to 1 o'clock position

Thanks for details.... looking forward to practice it.

yes, i'm on clipless pedal...

btw, is hill will be good training ground for improving the pedal stroke where you can feel the much resistant !

i guess this is a personal thing... i personally think that flatter ground with mid pedaling speed is better... 60-70rpm cadence...

the reason is that it is trying to help you maximize pedaling efficiency... while on climbing you are putting in a lot of pedal forces...rather than concentrating on spinning smoothly, you are concentrating more on pushing your pedals down and then pulling it up to propel yourself up a slope...

i say start on flat grounds and don't spin too fast until you get the hang of it... feels automatic without having to control your movements.. then proceed to do whatever you like (flats or climbs)...

as i say.. it is a subjective matter and applies differently to different people.

Hmmmm.. not too sure if this helps, but try to imagine yourself running with ankle weights strapped to your legs to get the upwards pull part (3 and 4)

Guys, Any opinion on the Selle Italia Shiver saddle. Seems to be made more for MTB but might spring for it as reviews appear to indicate that its a comfy saddle and wide...enough to accomodate my fairly large rear end

saddles are hard to extract an answer unless the person answering owns a simillar one... what's right for me isn't necessarily right for yours..

don't worry whether if it is meant for MTB or road... as long as your are comfy on it then go for it..

best if you can find one and ride on it... feeling the padding with hand is a different thing when you are sitting on it or you might possible find your thigh rubbing the nose a bit too much... very much a personal thing if you ask me...

thanks for the reply butthead. helps me a lot with my decision. cheers!

sorry, you replied so fast...

was actually looking for a link to an article that offers some explanation on saddle types (like round, semi-round shape) and different nose types but couldn't remember where it was...

basically my experience with cutout saddles are mixed... i like the type like yours which extend 1/4 or 1/2 way from the nose till the end... the ones with a hole in the middle sort of feels like sitting on a cookie cutter for me.. or maybe i bought a cheap one back then...

some people also feel that cut out saddles feel very strange for them but i suspect they just have too much meat on the rear end

the problem with this sort of cutout saddles are it could be quite stressed on the railing since your loads will be handled by practically 2 halves of the saddle help by a small bridge near the end (refer to the pict below white color part with specialized logo)... sometimes the bridge will crack or in some bontrager models the railings might bent...



some people like long saddles as you have more real estate to maneuver around... some people like heavily padded nose as they sit more towards the edge...

really a lot of factors into saddle selection...i always wonder when i look at saddles how one feels compared to mine...it will always remain a mystery...

basically trial and error...

Again, much thanks butthead. I tend to find myself at the front edge of the saddle. tried adjusting the saddle height and saddle position, still cant quite get the sweet spot..haha

Was originally looking at trying out a Tioga spyder but chickened out after reading about people who snapped their saddle. Anyone out there tested out a spyder?

i see that spiderman looking saddle i also scared... if it brakes.. it means the seatpost is going up your ahole... and it looks like it is going to break 9 out of 10...

definitely no go for me... i sat on one though... quite comfy even without padding... like a sprung mattress..

I tried to pump my tayar to 110 psi (max is 120 but since my weight is low so ya) But i cant able to pump to 110psi only able to pump to 100 most of time. I am using bontrager pump btw... Too skinny perhaps?

What is the maximum psi the bontrager pump can put? is it a mini pump?

talking about saddle..is prologo a well known brand for saddle? im looking for those mushy2 and comfy saddle..not sure which model..specialized one quite expensive..

btw bont a2 is around rm580...rough estimation of price quoted by ksh s.petaling..i wonder the recent member here bought for how much? and they don't have keo max..only keo classic..

This post has been edited by mrjgx: Feb 9 2012, 10:19 PM

Not mini pump, the big one...

the name is "charger"