when you get that error message means your battery gonna die in near future

just go and claim the battery warranty in sc

if you always activate your i-stop it will shorten the battery life (how much i not sure) from those frequent engine restart

Still much cheaper than installing body kit or doing coating which is purely cosmetic. The TPMS has real usefulness, safety and convenience value. It's not being paranoid about tyre pressure but being informed when it needs to be pumped up or when there is a leak. Checking your pressure every fortnight is troublesome and if you want to go to that extent may as well install a TPMS. In case of a slow leak you won't notice it until it is half flat or totally flat (usually the next morning) so you'll be driving on underpressure for a while. the TPMS also gives you an alarm if your tyre temp reach dangerous level. It can save you from a blowout at high speed.

I see.... I did ask the salesman about i-Stop affecting the battery life. But the salesman mentioned that it will not be significant.
And it's not even 1 year that I have been driving it around too (bought last year september)...

Ok lah, just need to do what needs to be done lah.
I'll be switching off the i-stop liao.

Thanks for the tip bro!

Your points noted. My opinion serves just as an alternative method for people to consider.

Does anyone know how much does the original spark plugs for Mazda 3 (2.0) costs? I was quoted RM50 per piece... bloody expensive!

It is iridium type, that's why more expensive.

Guys, need some advise.

Last week, while driving, my car was jerking during low gear shifts. Then I serviced my car. Changed ATF, engine oil, oil filter, air filter and spark plugs.

After changing the spark plugs, the engine vibrated a lot. My mechanic said it may be due to faulty valves. He advised me to do a computer tuning/checking to identify the problem. So I took my car to another workshop he recommended and upon checking, the mechanic noticed one of the spark plugs' ceramic casing was cracked. I got that replaced and the engine was fine, no more vibrating.

Now there is no more jerking during low gear shifts but I feel the pickup is lethargic. It feels like something is holding it back when I press the accelerator at low speed.

Do I need to do a computer tuning or could it be some other issues that I need to look into?

Thanks in advance.

May be psychological. Mazda 3 2.0 (if this is your model) has a slight lag when you press the accelerator. The torque at low speed is also not very good. Are you getting good pickup at higher speed?

I did consider the psychological factor but I still couldn't verify if that was it. Maybe you are right!

Yes, the pickup is good at higher speeds.

Thanks.

Change so many things at one go, if is the spark plug having problem then ask them give you back the previous sparkplug, that's what I did last time, at least if something wrong I can change back the old part, unless the part is really bulky

Maybe drive feel more days see if the ECU relearn or not

Yeah, had to change all because >200k mileage already.

So, there is a chance the ECU may re-tune by itself after a few days driving?

thxs for the recommendation

been doing a few mazda 3 recently ( mostly driving video recorder ) and pedal lock

anyway to answer ur question, installation of the side mirror autofolding and autolock module doesn't requires any tapping of original wiring

ECU self learning only need 15-30mins depends on driving habit, and what it can tune is limited so dont expect it to solve all problem, it can change AF ratio, retard/rich timing to reduce knocking and better shifting point, but dont expect sudden boost in power

you went to the workshop i recommend you? i dont think their workmanship is that bad

No bro. The workshop you recommended sounded like they do not encourage to bring our own things like engine oil, filter, etc. So I went to my regular mechanic.

Since my warranty period ended, I always buy the parts myself. I find it to be cost effective.

Anyway, thanks for the recommendation.

It's possible to tune the Skyactiv engine to improve low end torque but the problem is finding someone who can do it properly. A few local tuners I've checked out can't even show a proper before/after performance curve so I wouldn't let them mess with my M3. For the moment there is no creditable ECU tuner for our M3 but I stand to be corrected if someone can prove me wrong.

haha....no wonder, because they dont charge labour for normal servicing, that's why

but the lack of power at low end is quite normal even for current gen m3, the engine tends to wake up only after 3k rpm

This post has been edited by amduser: Apr 25 2016, 05:44 PM

have anyone here know where to find KnightSport bodykit?

Hi guys,

Been an owner for the M3 fullspec for about a month now.

Just wanna get some opinion from you guy. Are you guys experiencing any problem with your brakes?

As like it's less sensitive and you have to floor is quite 'deep' for it to 'makan'(engage)?

And also the brake pedal is quite soft as compare to my previous car thatr I have driven which is a Nissan Sentra. My nissan will be very responsive with even a slightest tap on the breaks but for my new M3, I need to floor it quite abit before the brake 'makan'.

I find it quite dangerous especially when u r driving in the highway. Is kinda hard to judge the distance of the breaking when the car in front of you hit the break.

Anyways, I've google and say that it might be air going into going into the brake system and you need to bleed it out. I've send my M3 to the SC today and they told me the same thing.. they bleed it for me and change the shell brake and clutch fluid but i've notice it doesn't make much differences. Break is still not as sensitive as I want it to be and is kinda spongy.

And when you park your car without your engine on, your brake is suppose to stiff rite? Mine is soft.. dunno whether is normal or my brakes have somekind of defect.

Anyone of you experiencing this as well?

Thanks.

This post has been edited by garkit: Apr 25 2016, 09:35 PM

mine is the pedal action is not as smooth as my previous car, but after driven for a month now the pedal seems to be smoother and braking distance and power is consistent all the while

indeed you need to press a bit more to feel the bite, every car is different la, if there is air in your brake system you should be able to feel that your braking distance and brake force is not consistent, is like suddenly brake is strong and suddenly is weak, and did your brake pedal vibrate when doing hard braking?

oh yea the car also will 'intelligently' downshift when you are braking to provide some engine brake, so if you feel like there is a sudden pull, take a look at your rpm meter as well

I'm also experiencing the same thing. Very hard to judge the braking distance. Plan to change to aftermarket brake pad and possibly disc if after 20k the feeling still soft.