regarding flowrate. Many brands state like 2L per minute or 3L per minute but that is not the actual flowrate that u will be getting as it depends on your incoming water pressure.

So, to understand better and for comparison, i recorded this video. If your kitchen tap has a flowrate of 12sec per litre, you can expect to get 30 sec per Litre after going through Aquaphor. If your kitchen tap flowrate is better than 12sec, then u can expect better flow for Aquaphor as well.

Note : 12sec per Litre is consider moderate flowrate. Most new houses got better flowrate.

This post has been edited by zheilwane: Jan 29 2018, 01:57 PM

How much did you pay for it? Can it filter heavy metal and rust?

a basic carbon block can be used to reduce heavy metal and rust. But for higher % reduction, Aquaphor has invented Aqualen and it is compressed together with the carbon block.
https://aquaphor.com.my/aqualen

bro...need to replace crystal eco dy...old filter trade in still got rebate?

Lol, someone deleted my post. Maybe one of the mods works for Aquaphor...

Basic carbon block does not reduce heavy metals. It only reduce chlorine-bromine group, but not even chloramine. What reduces heavy metal in your system is UF hollow fiber membrane.

Aqualen... I wouldn't trust their claims at all. They say it "reduces bacteria because silver". I call BS on that. Silver impregnated filter does not filter out bacteria. It simply prevents the growth of bacteria on filter surface.

Not sure if you're misinformed yourself or trying to confuse others.

This post has been edited by hestati: Jan 30 2018, 01:22 PM

Ultrafiltration membrane in it is supposed to remove heavy metals, rust etc, in theory. Depends how much you trust their UF filter.

But can someone from Aquaphor please comment on "tap water pressure - doesn't matter". Hydro shock or high system pressure and any filter can burst. So what is the max pressure for Aquaphor?

This post has been edited by hestati: Jan 30 2018, 01:24 PM

Max operating pressure: 95.5 psi (6.5 bar). Normal Malaysia incoming pressure is 2 - 3bar (consider quite good pressure), some area less than 2. While water pumps such as grundfos can generate 4bar of pressure.
https://aquaphor.com/crystal-eco

If mod things you are selling a product, they will delete your post. You can post useful info here or debate without getting deleted. i got deleted and suspended as well. Cannot post pricing or promotion here.

Carbon block can reduce heavy metal but not effectively removing them. The proper terms use for water filtration is REDUCE as no filters can filter 100% for everything.

If you google, you can check Carbon Block can reduce heavy metals such as Heavy metals such as lead and mercury.
https://www.wqpmag.com/carbon-block-manufacturing

Another Example, 3M C-complete filter consist of carbon block only is tested by NSF to be able to reduce LEAD & MERCURY (Heavy Metal)
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/756872O...-cooler-pds.pdf

So, this shows that carbon block is able to reduce heavy metal but to achieve higher reduction % as mentioned, aquaphor added aqualen into their carbon blocks. Aquaphor also has hollow membrane, so that is even better for some brands that only have carbon block.

This post has been edited by zheilwane: Jan 30 2018, 01:55 PM

Yes, there are carbon blocks that can remove anything you want, even fluoride, chloramine, lead etc. However, these are specially formulated blocks. Normal, ordinary carbon block you see in most filters cannot remove any of it. Well yes, reduce, but it's a very generic statement. They "reduce" it because they are usually 10-5-1-0.5 micron rated, so let's say you have a large piece of lead coming, it will be filtered out, just like any sediment filter would do it as well.

On the other hand, UF (hollow fiber) filter in your system really does remove (at least supposed to) all lead etc.

Just my 0.02$

sorry correction, aquaphor filter uses hollow fibre membrane not UF memrane

Does NSF has certification for UF ? If no, how to identify a good UF filter ?

Wanna ask about carbon block filter able to remove heavy metals, rust, odor and also some of the contaminants, how about the water contains germs and bacteria ? Any idea aquaphor filter can to remove it?

hollow fibre membrane is able to reduce bacteria. Water borne bacteria such as e.coli is rated 0.2 micron

If there is no NSF cert then there may be some lab tests from independent sources? Also, even if there is NSF cert, check what number it is, the standard will indicate to actually what it can filter.

Sometimes there's a trick. They will put NSF label, but test it to material requirement only. That essentially means "it's ok for this to touch your water, but we haven't tested whether it filters anything or not".

Search from the link below to what it was certified to:

http://www.nsf.org/certified-products-systems

What is the size of the hollow membrane that aquaphor use? How many microns? As i know the industry standard size is 0.2 microns.

I haven't come across any NSF certified UF filter. I'm interested to get a NSF certified UF filter as the final stage filter for my existing system because I don't have a power point underneath the sink to add an UV filter.
What's your take on UF vs UV ?

Ok, this time I will post without any links or any sales.

My background is water treatment. I worked in Canada, USA and South America on various water treatment projects mainly RO projects though. I was also appointed by one of my employers to go to establish manufacturing in China, which didn't go well, but whatever.

So what a good home system must have? Right now we're talking about 3 stage system only. Why 3 stage? Surprisingly, it's the most economical and easy solution. You can do 2 stage as well, but it's not worth it, I'll explain why.

Stage 1 MUST be a sediment filter. It's cheap and it takes the first hit and you should replace it often (3-6 month). There are 3 types, string, pleated and melt blown. Just use the melt blown one. Cost for a good, USA made one is roughly 20 RM, change it 3 times a year. So 60RM yearly for this one. Choose 1 or 5 micron (I prefer 5 for better flow)

If your system doesn't have a sediment filter as a first stage, then all the large kaka goes to your first filter and reduces it's lifetime and performance dramatically.

Stage 2 is your main filter. Normally it's sub-micron, hollow membrane or other technology (in USA they don't even make UF, they have other sub-micron filters). This is the heart of your system and it's also must have. Make sure it removes: bacteria, viruses, cyst, lead, arsenic, ferrous iron, mercury, pharmaceuticals and plastics. Pretty much everything except: fluoride, chlorine, bromine, iodine and VOC. Change once per year. Roughly 160-200RM for a very good one (US made)!

Stage 3 is your carbon block. This will remove chlorine, bromine, iodine and VOC. Change once a year, roughly 80-100RM for a very good one (US made, coconut activated carbon).

So you're looking at 300-350RM per year worth of outstanding quality filters.


So see the logic here: first, remove large particles. Then, remove all nasty stuff such as bacteria and heavy metals, then get rid of bad taste and odor.

What's left? Normally it will be minerals and fluoride. But, sometimes you still have a bad taste, how come? Answer is chloramine. Nasty nasty stuff. Widely used in USA now instead of or together with chlorine, but can also form if ammonia is present in your water. You need a special chloramine carbon block and these are not cheap. EVEN THE BEST SYSTEM without chloramine filter will produce nasty water. Chloramine is not removed by any UF or sub-mic or anything else. If you have chloramine, your cost of carbon block (stage 3) becomes close to 160-200RM.

So say you don't have chloramine and let's assume you don't have any radiation (unless it's well water, hopefully not). Then what's left is fluoride. They do add crappy fluoride to our water in USA and in Malaysia (Western Europe banned it for example). You need a special filter if you want to get rid of it, so an extra stage. I personally don't care, but choice is yours.

Now to plastic leaching. If components of your system (not filters, but everything else) are made God knows where, then there are high chances that they leach chemicals into your water. Anything before stage 2, we don't care, since our stage 2 will take care of it, but anything after it goes straight to your cup. So know where each and every COMPONENT that touches the water is made. (example, does your faucet contain lead? if yes, then what's the point if filtering out all the lead before?)

Last but not least, I HIGHLY recommend a system with standard housings and filters. We call them 2.5 by 10, 2.5 by 20 and so on. Even if the manufacturer of your system jacks up the price for replacement cartridges or goes out of business, you can always buy cartridges from reputable US companies at reasonable prices.

This is it for now. If you have any questions, please let me know

This post has been edited by hestati: Jan 30 2018, 04:36 PM

What is your system? Can you show photos of it?

I would not recommend UV at all. There are cheaper and more efficient solutions to almost any case when UV is used. You plan to use UV just to kill bacteria?

My system are stated below. Yes, to kill bacteria if any.

Culligan US-EZ-4


3M Ap Easy Complete

http://nasdonline.org/1470/d001269/bacteri...hold-water.html

This article state that inappropriate sitting of drainfields, and poor design, construction, and maintenance of septic systems, coupled with improper well and spring box construction, can lead to contamination of household water. And Chlorine also has its limitations. Its solutions are only moderately stable, and organic matter as well as iron and manganese can interfere with the action of chlorine.