Yup. For plate-mount like Ducky board, you need to desolder the switch then only can open the housing.

You can't do that on consumer grade keyboards. Those plates does not support opening switch top.

I think, the clicky sound for me make me feel spirited to play or typing..I love the clicky sound. And I don agree if too light actuation force in Topre because for FPS and DOTO 2, I must have the same actuation force like Blues.

This post has been edited by ZR46: Apr 27 2015, 09:08 AM

So I contacted this company called Lytox Engineering. They do carry Krytox lubricant, but the moq they require is 2oz x 5 for a proper quotation (I assume per type) from their Singapore HQ, that's crazy lots of oil or grease and the price will be "AMAZING" I suppose. If got enough ppl want the oil and grease, hopefully can get a proper quotation. At least 10 ppl is needed (per type). But the problem is distributing..

Like that might as well just buy from some foreign site..

Thanks for clarification. I've been thinking of opening the switch before but found out that I can't do that on my board without desoldering. The plate mount switch which is removable without soldering is due to the special plate designed for phantom keyboard.

Anyway, I'm thinking of getting a 60% board for portable traveling. Anyone know how much do I have to prepare for each component roughly? If possible, I would like the most basic one cause I don't think I would want to bring it out if it's too expensive.

I'm thinking of using gateron switches. Last time I calculated the cost for 1 switch including shipping from taobao would cost around rm1 per switch roughly. So i guesss it's roughly rm60-rm80 there.

Is it cheaper to get a ready made 60% board or is it cheaper to get a custom board?

Cloud8992 is doing Gaterons GB, price pretty good, go take a look.

not so soon man
my recommendation is that if you need it urgently, better get the cable from taobao or elsewhere. i can't guarantee or give any ETA at the moment.

the ones i mention doesn't need you to open the housing or desolder the switch. this is one easy way you can try before resorting to those methods.
1) remove keycaps from that affected switch
2) use ur finger or tweezer or any tools to press down the stem of the switch
3) blow air into the opening using your mouth or any tools that can blow air into that opening

per type?
meaning 5 different types of grade oil/grease?
or can it be 2oz x 5 of the same grade oil/grease?

i'm in for 10-20g of GPL 107 if you need any numbers of interested ppl.
FYI, GON is selling USD$11 for ~9-10g for GPL 103 or GPL 107.
if we can get the price cheaper than that, then it's justifiable.
but of course, distribution also headache since need to get proper bottle containers

alternatively, we can try to share shipping from GON haha!

example: GPL 105 2oz x 5 bottle, then GPL 100 2oz x 5 bottles.
Really crazy amount though, and many people have different preference of lubing their switches.

Share shipping from GON is a good idea.. But he only got 103 and 107.

i have GPL 104, and personally i think it's a bit too low in it's viscosity.
and i heard from a very reliable source that GPL 107 itself is very good.
2oz x 5 is about 283gm?
need at least 14 ppl to take 20g each and maximum of 28 ppl to take 10g each

For this project, I need GPL 105 or above and 205. tactile switch (MX clears) need slightly more viscous lube right?

That day 016 mentioned he personally like 107 for linear, and suggested 203/205 for tactile.

Cheaper to get ready made.

Gateron switches - Rm75
Stabilizers - Rm30
Switch stickers - Rm20
Switch lube - Rm35-40
Switch spring - Rm20-40
Stabilizer lube - Rm ??
LEDs - Rm15
Diodes+Resistors - Rm10
60% PCB - Rm100+-
60% plate - Rm45
60% aluminium case - Rm200+-
Mini USB cable - Rm15

Total of about - Rm550?

Here's a breakdown of estimated prices on making a custom 60% board. Prices are not 100% right depending on what you wanna get. PCB price is based on GH60 and not korean PCB. You've got to top up more for that. Prices are direct converted and haven't factor in shipping prices.

Sorry for disturbing ,

Is keycool87 doesn't have stabilizer ? And what if a keyboard without stabilizer , how will it feels ?

ahh, you are tactile user.
i'm not too sure about mx clears d, and i didn't use krytox's grease before, so i've no idea about that haha!

i have mx clears on my ergo dox, but i'm not sure if the housing has issue or because i didn't lube the stem, it sometimes can be..."stucky".
i need to find some time to test out different lube on my mx clears.
reason why i didn't lube it is because i want to get maximum tactile from the mx clears.

Hahaha, I'll consult the some big God of tuning probably.
If the GONs buy, you on I also on.. Can share shipping

for mxclears i've used geekhackers thick lube kit and it's fine. sometimes i miss unlubed clears too

US$ 17.10 (tax incl.)

shipping mahal siot!

Yup, more expensive than the oil itself. If got more people buying will be better

Thanks for the rough estimation.

Hmm, I think I wouldn't use stickers,leds etc. Is acrylic case cheaper than aluminium case? But then it will still be very expensive.
I was thinking of getting a ready made stock keyboard one but I wanted to use gateron switches. Or should I find some chinese keyboards which uses gateron switch?

Is it stucky because of the spring not enough force to push it back up? From what I know, the springs have to be a certain weight, can't remember what's the weight . Otherwise the mx clear will have problem rebouncing.

you are correct about the spring having to be of a certain weight to be able to push the stem and keycaps right back up.
but i used 62g spring for it, the spring force should be able to sprung the stem back up without any issue.
but because the mx clear i have was harvested from an old cherry board, i noticed quite a lot of the switch housing has dents on it, indicating that something heavy has been placed on top of the board. probably the boards are stacked up on each other before it was shipped to me.

i suspect that because of that, the housing might have internal damage to it, as in the "copper leaf" thing inside the switch, might have been bended more than it should, thus affecting the pressing and depressing of the switch.

probably the easiest way is to change housing altogether

This post has been edited by justnits: Apr 27 2015, 05:35 PM