Tried gaterons 35g on pcb mount itself vs on a acrylic plate mount. Couldn't tell the differences in feel or perhaps i didn't go through extensive typing to tell the difference. But i'll definitely get a metal plate for linear switch if i could. The metal plate sound resonance is too good to miss out.

Hmm, .
Guess I would have to try that out for myself. I don't know how does a metal plate resonance sound sounds like.

Or maybe there is a difference between acrylic plate and metal plate. Anyway, I don't even know whether my current keyboard uses a metal plate or a plastic plate.

I've side by side comparison so i could tell the sound difference is pretty huge. On the acrylic one the bottoming out is muffled out while on metal plate it sounds more 'full' and loud. But well thats just my opinion i love the sound of linear switches bottoming out.

Guys, I'm currently looking for keycaps which suitable for ducky shine 3 orange led. All of my current keycaps are in black, any suggestion where to can i buy others colour keycaps and what colour is suitable to match with black keycaps and orange led. =)

Some koreans like it, but personally I prefer purity/control over something as finicky as a PCB mount, especially something as light as 35g gaterons.

I personally massively dislike PCB mount as they have less stability IMO, but you can give it a shot if you want...

check my ducky shine 3 post there is a vortex keycap pm me if you are interested

Hi dude, do you have any picture for your keycap?

A simple test is, Filco MJ2 vs Ducky Shine 3/4.
Filco MJ2 is using a metal plate while Ducky is using a metal plate too but lighter(got mixed with other materials to reduce cost I think).
The Filco MJ2 sounds much louder(Pak pak pak) when the keys are bottoming out compared to Ducky Shine 3/4(puff puff puff).

Good example, I will try it out when I get the chance. Then I guess my current keyboard might be the same as the ducky shine as it's also a ducky and the sound is more puff than pak to me.

yea, I think it is up to individual in the end. Everyone have their preference.
I just searched a few threads on GH and those who like PCB mount generally prefers the not so solid or natural feel. They can't really explain it but after testing the same switches on a poker 2 and a filco. The ones who like pcb mount can't go back to filco, so they say. The flex makes it a very nice experience for them. But I worry about the solder joints though. As solder joints generally don't like flex.

Guess I'll most probably be saving up funds and get the parts without the plate first. If I happen to not like the pcb moutn feel and decide to have the plate for stability later on, I will just have to resolder the switches and buy the plate.

Don't do retarded stuff. Much harder to desolder and resolder. The "flex" leads to inconsistent keypresses all around and is only suitable for glide typists anyway. Not good for gaming at all.

However, it is your money that you're wasting, so, up to you I guess.

I am looking for a mechanical keyboard but there are a large variety of mechanical keyboard in the market. Could anyone suggest which keyboard should I get?

By the way,I would be using this keyboard more often in typing and programming.

Is it retarded to desolder switches? That's new to me. I thought to change a switch or open the housing from a normal plate mounted switch, you have to desolder the switch? or am I missing something here or misunderstood your sentence?

Anyway, I know hard pounding on the key will lead to more flexing therefore the keyboard will probably will not be suitable for gaming, but I have no intention of gaming with it yet. For now the purpose is for normal typing and portability as well as a cheap investment to test out gateron switches.

This post has been edited by ck.chunkeat: Apr 28 2015, 02:18 AM

retarded as in not using plating. as i said plating is very important most keybaord having at least a plate even cheap keyboard.
its up to you since you are the one paying for it we can only give advice.

I just did a search around, and I couldn't find many results of 60% mass produced keyboard with Gaterons. The closest thing is probably Nano 75, the Noppoo one usually use Cherry and other clones. If you just search "Nano 75 Gaterons", something will pop up in those Chinese forum explaining about it.

Like you said, cheap investment, then don't think aluminum case already, will add a lot more to the cost. I think plate mount is the way to do it now, only very less keyboards are pcb mounted nowadays, except you really want to find it on GH. Just do a basic build with the Gateron switch you want to try, go with plate mount option, plastic case, no LED, and maybe a set of nicer (thicker) key caps and never regret your portable kit. Aluminum case also will make it much heavier, and you might not be happy bringing it around. Just my 2cents, I'm still a noob, just trying to help you make a choice.

Please refer the first post for suggestions. If you're more to typing, go with either tactile switches or maybe Topre, linears need some time to get used to, and "generally" more preferred for gaming, not entirely. MX blue is most popular if not mistaken(it's everywhere), but it is an clicky switch(first post explained that), and it's pretty noisy to be used in a quiet environment let's say office.

Then the other option will be MX brown, many prefer this over the blue because it's tactile, not clicky, less noisy, but still have that satisfying bump when pressed down. Topre I haven't try before, just imagine it as a common rubber dome switch on steroids, some user will say Topre > all, but it all comes down to self preference.

Best is go try in a shop that have display unit, I find that a switch tester will not give you the whole image of typing on a keyboard, rather just to show you the difference in feel. Hope some other sifu can give more input.

What programming? Will you always use arrow keys?
Highly recommended tactile switches for typing.

i think the retarded stuff he meant was soldering without plate and then desolder and resolder with a plate, because considering that each time you desolder, there's a chance for you to damage the solder pad on the pcb and probably feels that there's a high chance you will desolder them to install plate.
so if you still want to go ahead to do without plate, i suggest that you don't solder in the led first.

but personally, i'd suggest to use plate, even an acrylic ones. i don't like the idea of dust and hair and other particles falling down straight to my pcb. with a plate, at least there's a layer of cover for your pcb. that's just my personal thoughts lah but do take note that i didn't try plateless keyboard before, so my suggestions may be biased towards using plate

Thanks guys for explaining what is retarded.

I was afraid that I have to bring out the kiddies dictionary.

Some people are stubborn, and some people are just stupid. Worse case when both combine.

Go Taobao and grab yourself a plate, RM 30-60 should able to do it already.