On wiring side, you can use independent PS but you need to have the FPC to control the triggering of the FP when you turn the key to ignition standby as the FP need to prime 1st. Now all cars have the FP primed 1st before ignition.

Its the same. Draw in fuel from bottom and out from top. But the Walbro fuel pump I have the internal design is the new one using something like a turbine fin blade instead of the bearing georotor like our oil pump. The sound is a bit more silent and it does not have that small valve on the top outlet which I don't know how to describe. 

This is comparison between our stock Borsch FP bottom with the Walbro Georotor FP top. Same just Walbro body size bigger a bit. 


This is out stock FP casing assembly fuel strainer will fit Walbro inlet no problem at all.


This is our in-tank FP regulator. When you put in after market FPR on FLX this needs to be disable by plugging the top hole with a cap.


Here's a video how it sounds like when hot. Cold time the sound is much louder.

Feel is very subjective and your car setup and mine is different so result will differ....

respect you cause willing to do all kinds of testing on ur own car; eventhough there's no guarantee that it will work. hats off

if rosaked also he can easily get it repaired unlike all of us.

very very informative, thanks for explaining boss 
 
respect you cause willing to do all kinds of testing on ur own car; eventhough there's no guarantee that it will work. hats off

one more dumb question. the last bar on the fuel gauge usually lasts how many km ar?

depends on your fuel consumption.

i usually only light footed drive around 70-80km/h everyday to work

When you bump into trouble, it's either you face it or walked away from it. I just choose to faced it, learn about it and find a solution to it because no one is going to solve your problem for you. I thank you for the compliment but I'm also still learning. There's much to be learned and I barely skim the surface..

calculate your FC lor, then you can tell what's your FC. can't simply tell the FC based on that.

http://www.fuelly.com/about

On wiring side, you can use independent PS but you need to have the FPC to control the triggering of the FP when you turn the key to ignition standby as the FP need to prime 1st. Now all cars have the FP primed 1st before ignition.

Its the same. Draw in fuel from bottom and out from top. But the Walbro fuel pump I have the internal design is the new one using something like a turbine fin blade instead of the bearing georotor like our oil pump. The sound is a bit more silent and it does not have that small valve on the top outlet which I don't know how to describe. 

This is comparison between our stock Borsch FP bottom with the Walbro Georotor FP top. Same just Walbro body size bigger a bit. 


This is out stock FP casing assembly fuel strainer will fit Walbro inlet no problem at all.


This is our in-tank FP regulator. When you put in after market FPR on FLX this needs to be disable by plugging the top hole with a cap.


Here's a video how it sounds like when hot. Cold time the sound is much louder.

Feel is very subjective and your car setup and mine is different so result will differ....

Just got back my Flx yesterday. Did the repairs at Proton SC.

Well it was the pump that gave way. Luckily clutch all okay. Damnit... the pump made in China...   

Surely lah the quality like sheet....

Total cost Rm750 +..

Glad you're back. Still, 750 for a clutch pump, we're looking at Inspaliah pricing ady Quazacolt?

Glad you're back. Still, 750 for a clutch pump, we're looking at Inspaliah pricing ady Quazacolt?

if the fuel signal start blinking usually how many km ar it can go before it run out of fuel?

my fren just replaced in proton sc RM72x for inspira, mitsubishi japan part, if mitsubishi china i can get cheaper by 20% +- 

see this:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1771264...E%20%28M%29.pdf
item 186 and 187, not sure if the above few more required or not
then labor, gear oil, brake fluid...

actually, not that far off with the getrag? lol

I don't feel any lag in my throttle respond. Step..Go...Step..Go..

Your fuel pressure is regulated by the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR), on stock car the stock FPR controls the pressure via a spring attached to a diaphragm not the ECU. ECU only monitors the fuel flow rate and pressure then adjust the PD (Pulse Duration) of injector to control how long the nozzle to stay open and the PD reduces as engine RPM increase. For Borsch injector they are reliable up to 85% of their duty cycle anymore and they will start to fail.

By now you should understand how the injector works and how it is controlled. So you ask will the EU compensate the higher flow rate. The ECU will only control the PD of the injector. Your fuel flow rate will increase once you swap to a high pressure high flow FP. The FPR will detect the higher pressure due to higher flow and regulate it. But due to the higher flow rate even with the FPR trying to bring down the pressure to stock set level. Technically speaking your fuel delivery /hr is still higher than stock pump hence your whole fuel line is has a higher pressure than stock.

The ECU has it's own fuel mapping but it will change slightly to match with the increased fuel but to an extend only. As I have not fully let the Walbro run at higher efficiency so the stock mapping still an coupe with the changes but from my usage I've noticed Fuel Consumption has increased.

Why I change to a high flow fuel pump is because on dyno my AFR is showing leaning issues at Mid to High rev range and overall the AFR is on the lean side starting from low. As I'm preparing to redo my entire fuel delivery system (returnless to return type) I drop in the Fuel Pump 1st then later on will put in an adjustable FPR to regulate and increased the fuel pressure where the stock FPR will not be able to handle anymore.

I drop in the Fuel Pump as a testing actually wanted to see how a high flow FP whether will help to reduce the leaning issue to a certain level and it did. My Mid to high rev now is much stronger compare to before where I can feel the engine starving for fuel. The stock FP was not able to deliver quick enough to supply the engine needs hence on dyno the graph shows a constant ----- only instead of keep going upwards until the fuel cut off kicks in.

Since not much info have gone into detail of the problem, I took things to my own and use my own car as a test bed. I've tried using a SR20 fuel rail but it was not a fit. injector outlet was off by few MM and with the stock pump it will not able to supply enough pressure at all to the larger fuel rail so with now the increased pressure. I'm dropping in bigger fuel rails and see what happens.

Ayam glad that maikar is BLM, can kompatibulu with Datsun Sunny 130Y, oso can kompatibulu with many NISMO part that fits Langley 1.5 tebu If I were to consider upgred gebox, probably will be Personga/Gentut/BLM TAXI Mitshi gebox. Atleast I get to use Rallyart. Good lark with getrug gebox

Just got back my Flx yesterday. Did the repairs at Proton SC.

Well it was the pump that gave way. Luckily clutch all okay. Damnit... the pump made in China...   

Surely lah the quality like sheet....

Total cost Rm750 +..