david, what do u think about 2 leg braking technique?
i find brake force increase a lot becos pedal can reach bottom easier than 1 leg. especially if the car stopping power is weak

also practising left foot braking at the same time

Gaga can do heel n toe.

If u say not pushing out exhaust fast enough means the exhaust gas flow is restrictive or it colds down too fast due to too big exhaust piping n becomes heavy and need more energy to push it out. I don't think adding a billet will help much.

put ur foot higher position. Thats the key.
gaga can do it no problem

Sometimes, it takes an extra chamber to buffer air speed, rather than straight flow From where these people get the idea of adding a bullet will make the exhaust flow faster

ok, i go face wall suck thumb...
i got drive gaga blm sometimes
i will try make one, but need sponsor tripod and fuel

A little update to share with you guys, I just changed one of my car's rear wheel bearing and of course no more humming noise. 
Meanwhile I was at the SC, I asked my friend (my friend work at SC) to update the ECU firmware, but he updated the TCU firmware at the same time. My car is a Saga FLX CVT Executive. At first, the improvements are not noticeable when I drove out of the SC, but can notice a slight improvements on the throttle respond. However once I hit a traffic jam, I quickly notice the jerky of the car during low speed had significantly reduced to almost non, near to torque converter. I previously curse the CVT jerky-ness to death, but after this update, I start to love the car again.    CVT users here, maybe you can have a try to update your ECU and TCU firmware. 

you'll get many chances to practice. As time goes by, the clock will be getting slower... and slower... and slower...

Admit it, you just wanted more bars in the car(be it cheap and useless) to "look" fast and "feel" stable. The rear lower bar of Ular Cacing has a total different function than what 3MAX ARB does. It's a cross member brace that will enforce the chassis rigidity beneath the rear passneger seats. It's not about how cheap the bar can be, it's the functionality

Please bai Ular Cacing rear "STRUT" bar. From the name, 1 can expect the bar supposed to strap on the STRUT, which 3MAX idiotic kind of design conveniently strapped on the seats. What an idiot

p/s: NOT trolling, in addition to the latest incident that involved our TS

300 out of 475 is for workmanship, becos they have to open up ur dashboard before can take out the condenser to service.
A good workshop will tell you the truth that is not worth to service aircond, the shop you went most probably want to con your money.

Don't fix it if not broken. Our aircond no need service one. if you feel not cold, you can ask to check for coolant level, they will estimate if there is any leakage by looking the % moisture inside the coolant. If they check no sign of leaking but coolant level is reduce, it is normal, you can refill the coolant and test for 3 months. I refill my coolant after my car reach 5 years, nearly 50% gone, but no sign of leakage, they refill coolant for me and now adi 6 months the aircond still very cold. If leakage due to condenser, straight away change condenser + refill gas all those thing only cost you around RM600.

Aircond service is for those cars that doesn't need dashboard dismantle, definitely not our Saga.

200? They dismantle anything?  Mine RM100 for same job done.

Hello everyone
I would like to know if we want to change CVT oil, let bawah pokok mechanic or get back to proton SC fix will better?
I just not sure what procedure will involve during CVT oil changing cause my mechanic dont have pc or relative technology stuff to fix if needed.

NO

It is for torque converter based CVT. Can be used in Inspira, BUT NOT for Saga.

Oh, too bad, then i just use back Proton CVT oil ba   

Or any alternative brand I can try? Appreciate if recommended 

On wiring side, you can use independent PS but you need to have the FPC to control the triggering of the FP when you turn the key to ignition standby as the FP need to prime 1st. Now all cars have the FP primed 1st before ignition.

Its the same. Draw in fuel from bottom and out from top. But the Walbro fuel pump I have the internal design is the new one using something like a turbine fin blade instead of the bearing georotor like our oil pump. The sound is a bit more silent and it does not have that small valve on the top outlet which I don't know how to describe. 

This is comparison between our stock Borsch FP bottom with the Walbro Georotor FP top. Same just Walbro body size bigger a bit. 


This is out stock FP casing assembly fuel strainer will fit Walbro inlet no problem at all.


This is our in-tank FP regulator. When you put in after market FPR on FLX this needs to be disable by plugging the top hole with a cap.


Here's a video how it sounds like when hot. Cold time the sound is much louder.

Feel is very subjective and your car setup and mine is different so result will differ....

I don't feel any lag in my throttle respond. Step..Go...Step..Go..

Your fuel pressure is regulated by the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR), on stock car the stock FPR controls the pressure via a spring attached to a diaphragm not the ECU. ECU only monitors the fuel flow rate and pressure then adjust the PD (Pulse Duration) of injector to control how long the nozzle to stay open and the PD reduces as engine RPM increase. For Borsch injector they are reliable up to 85% of their duty cycle anymore and they will start to fail.

By now you should understand how the injector works and how it is controlled. So you ask will the EU compensate the higher flow rate. The ECU will only control the PD of the injector. Your fuel flow rate will increase once you swap to a high pressure high flow FP. The FPR will detect the higher pressure due to higher flow and regulate it. But due to the higher flow rate even with the FPR trying to bring down the pressure to stock set level. Technically speaking your fuel delivery /hr is still higher than stock pump hence your whole fuel line is has a higher pressure than stock.

The ECU has it's own fuel mapping but it will change slightly to match with the increased fuel but to an extend only. As I have not fully let the Walbro run at higher efficiency so the stock mapping still an coupe with the changes but from my usage I've noticed Fuel Consumption has increased.

Why I change to a high flow fuel pump is because on dyno my AFR is showing leaning issues at Mid to High rev range and overall the AFR is on the lean side starting from low. As I'm preparing to redo my entire fuel delivery system (returnless to return type) I drop in the Fuel Pump 1st then later on will put in an adjustable FPR to regulate and increased the fuel pressure where the stock FPR will not be able to handle anymore.

I drop in the Fuel Pump as a testing actually wanted to see how a high flow FP whether will help to reduce the leaning issue to a certain level and it did. My Mid to high rev now is much stronger compare to before where I can feel the engine starving for fuel. The stock FP was not able to deliver quick enough to supply the engine needs hence on dyno the graph shows a constant ----- only instead of keep going upwards until the fuel cut off kicks in.

Since not much info have gone into detail of the problem, I took things to my own and use my own car as a test bed. I've tried using a SR20 fuel rail but it was not a fit. injector outlet was off by few MM and with the stock pump it will not able to supply enough pressure at all to the larger fuel rail so with now the increased pressure. I'm dropping in bigger fuel rails and see what happens.

Ayam glad that maikar is BLM, can kompatibulu with Datsun Sunny 130Y, oso can kompatibulu with many NISMO part that fits Langley 1.5 tebu If I were to consider upgred gebox, probably will be Personga/Gentut/BLM TAXI Mitshi gebox. Atleast I get to use Rallyart. Good lark with getrug gebox

Just got back my Flx yesterday. Did the repairs at Proton SC.

Well it was the pump that gave way. Luckily clutch all okay. Damnit... the pump made in China...   

Surely lah the quality like sheet....

Total cost Rm750 +..

No, the ECU won't need to take few days to re-compensate back the chance in fuel pressure. It will know immediately since there's an O2 sensor. They ECU will know if you running lean or rich once the engine start and drive. It will control the PD on the injector reduce the opening timing. But just look it like this since the pressure is higher before the injector and when the injector opens it will still spray more fuel due to the higher flow rate n pressure.

Just imagine your house water hose
example at
10psi - you open the hose nozzle for 2 secs it spray velocity is 30
20psi - you open the hose nozzle (ECU change) for 1 secs it spray velocity is 50

You see the relation here? it's just example la for easy understanding. As you increase the input pressure the spray out velocity will increase it measn you get more fuel into the CC faster at higher pressure.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Oh just a small info, your sage injector is 6 holes in an arrangement like this ---> ( ) 3 holes on each side. Spray pattern is in circular form surrounding the spark plug.

My mechanic said my engine mount is bad that's why car is vibrating. Shall I get OEM engine mount? Since Proton engine mounting doesn't seem to last.   

Use protong manual oil lor..

Bro. You and Bazinga based in Malacca is it? Ok my next trip down i let you guys know.
I am more based in JB/Singapore and some say Batam...

Campro is a funny engine. On stock form it had good AF ratio but once u do something to improve the air going into the engine it goes lean. Because Campro is using MAP sensor instead of MAF. It cannot detect the changes in air volume, the MAP sensor only senses vacuum level in the IM to determine the engine's load vacuum example no vacuum = ECU detects WOT, vacuum at max = ECU detects idling.

Do you get the idea now? Why Campro can run lean. correct me if im wrong, our O2 sensor is not wide band type.