https://www.google.com.my/maps/place/Nasi+M...#33;6m1!1e1

Toms Auto Part. Carik tauke Ah Peng. Suh die kasi tukak trus. Xpaya skim. Cheebye rotor only 19mm, selepas skim tinggal 17mm lagi cepat bengkok. Suh die cek dulu apahai bunyik bising dulu, jgn bagitau mau tukak disc/buat skim. Nasihat sudah bagi manyak kali. Amik pertindakan, bukan asyik tanya. Klo tak mau penasihat aku, sendiri pi carik kedai sepepat/werksiop. Harge smua sudah kasi. Tanya 10 kali pon sama. Sekian.

Betol SC sakap. Sekira banjir, konfem ECU koyak. Klo BLM MT morah ciket, sekitar 500 sebab BLM model lama pakei 16bit komputer je. Yg FLX pakei 32bit, mahai ciket.

Base on Kosong spec.

Direk owner sell/Retail around 25k. Trade in around 22k. If no buy kar from dealer straightaway sell to them, then 20k.

All prices listed above are base on full cash settlement, not including bank loan early settlement penalties and depreciation balance settlement. If you're on 9 years loan with 0 down payment, there's a chance that after sold the car you still owe the bank some 30k

Get it changed as soon as once clocked 80k km and or above. Try not to stretch it too much. By right, it is still safe to use, but who knows? Getting the belt changed will only cost you some RM300~400. Breaking the belt may cost you the engine overhaul of RM2000. You decide. Remember to change the belt tensioner as well. It's a little expansive, some RM120 if not mistaken. Usually technician will ask you to skip that, but what if before your next belt change then the bearing koyak? It's a good chance you gotta spend another 200~300 to open up the timing belt and change the tensioner again

Sudah la bukak, lagi mau cek? Trus tukak lar

Go UMW, ask them install VIOS alarm, then ensure put TRD spoiler, then it's all good

Due to crappy Plotong keys


Have changed to Toyol Kamri

afaik, certain reputable alarm module can be attach with Plotong immo module, only the reputable 1s. Other ciplak may not. If go for ciplak, usually undertree magician will take out 1 of the immo, plant it at the steering column so your car can setat - however, it may kill the fuel pam immaturely due to 24/7 activation by immo. drfeelgood has changed his alarm module without kacauing ori Plotong immo.

As above.

When the alarm set off midnight while you weren't able to sleep, had to disarm it, please don't do it inside the house. Take the opportunity walk out to the porch look into the dashboard cluster, see whether the door opened indicator is lite up? If yes, good chance is 1 or more of your 4 door switch malfunction/stuck. If there's no door opened indicator whilst alarm automatically set off, then it's possibly due to the rear boot lock switch.

Solution for door switch:
Open up the condom, spray conductive lubricant(namely Q20) into the shaft. Press/release a few times and respray lubricant again just to make sure everytime you release the switch, cabin light will lite up. Check also if the shaft is bent, if it is, see whether you can push it back straight so the shaft can thrust properly.



Solution for rear boot locking mechanism:
Use a screw driver to press the middle "tongue"(spray lubricant before/after press the tongue) until it clicks, don't shut the lid yet. Go back to your driver seat and pull the lever to release. Go to the back and shut the boot. Go back to driver seat and pull the lever to release again. Spray lubricant on the tongue again, use screw driver and press the tongue again until it's lock, then spray lubricant again. Once again, do not shut the lid, go back to driver seat and pull lever to release. You may use your key to open the lock after you press the "tongue", so you don't have to go back/forth.



Good luck in troubleshooting. This is as far I can share, the others need extensive experience.

I only practice LFB when going on track, and particularly hyper speed corners. It's a very good method to use foot brake to limit rear tyre traction, whilst front wheels are continue sprint forward, by having easy weight shifting, 1 can practice minimal steering action, yet the car is changing to your direction

U listen to him point u to holland lar. That bugger is a veteran ady Ebo owner impossibulu can't do LFB geh

U r the inspaliah gai from pinang rite

Sometimes, it takes an extra chamber to buffer air speed, rather than straight flow From where these people get the idea of adding a bullet will make the exhaust flow faster

Quazacolt



The handling "issue" that has been discussed by TDi, the drop spindle design for TT made it so versatile that it almost can make a 90' sharp turn at any speed without flipping over the car. The trouble is, even the commentator said it wasn't safe to drive at high speed due to the over agility. Hence factory made a recall, removed the "weapon" from the car and from MKII onwards, they handled NORMAL and with lots of understeer

Metallic 350 is reasonable. Solid should be 200. Spray paint usually not expansive due to pricing availability and competitive. However, if talking about knock body/restore job, that is very subjective. You wouldn't know whether you pay cheap, the knock job will be good; neither will you know if you paid expansive the restore job is up on par. The only shop that I trust for knock job is in Kuala Pilah, but wouldn't go that far just for the heck of knocking out a small dent on my fender and bonnet Other than that 1, you may consider Satria(authorized Plotong SC) at 227

http://protonservicecentre.blogspot.com/

The last I got quoted to restore my bonnet+fender+solid white paint job for RM350 nia.

Previously discussed, for BLM/FL designed, the front and back is different setup. The front bearing is 1 piece design, the whole spindle is coupled in the bearing. The front bearing itself is already RM300ish. Whereas the rear bearing is flat tapper roller bearing, costing is much cheaper at the range of RM60~100 depending on brand/quality.

Viceversa for FLX, the front and back bearing are same type, both are 1 piece design. Be it front or back, is around RM300ish.

Labor charge for changing bearings for a front wheel drive car, usually the front is more expansive because it require to detached more driving related parts before can take out the bearing, whereas the rear has nothing there other than the braking equipment. For a rear wheel drive car, on average basis both front and back are equally expansive like a FWD front module changing bearing. And ofcourse, for a 4x4, both front and back bearing changing labor charge is averagely more expansive than FWD and RWD regardless because both front and back are related with driving/steering equipment.

On an unrelated note, please also check your tyre condition before jump into conclusion. Do not tell foreman what to change. They hate it much when customer behave xingalan and definitely will give you a piece. Walk in, be humble and tell them you hear humming noise. If the foreman gonna test drive your car, please politely insist you're following on the passenger seat. Tell them what you hear, when you hear, under what circumstances the noise will appear. Ask pricing after diagnostic, be sure if you think the price is outrages, tell them your concern and ask why. There's no way you argue with foreman because your life is on their hand, the bad 1 I've experienced, all they gotta do is purposely FORGOT to tie the locking pin, my bearing lock nut fly off and my Ganjil lose a wheel while driving There's absofuckinglutely no point to hide your financial weakness infront of foreman also, these foreman usually richfag and doesn't like customer walk in like a you're on a different category. If you feel the damn thing is over your current budget, just gradually tell them you're short of how much, discuss if there's alternative that will meet your budget whilst get things done.

If you're within Klang valley, highly recommend our very own nestum shop in Jalan Ipoh. 1 of the best tayar shop I've visited.

Go to passenger side, squat and hang the damn thing behind your shift console. That is the exact place where your aircond receiver withdraw air. The funky smell after rain are all due to wet carpet/moist in cabin, and receiver is the 1 taking all the air from the carpet and blow them right on your face! I myself being too lazy, just chuck it inside my glove box compartment

You preferred to breath moist air? No offense please, such small pack of charcoal weren't enough to dry up active flowing air at high speed. Unless you shut yourself in the cabin drive for 5 hours straight exposed under hot sun with all windows shut. At its best, that pack of charcoal will help to dry up certain area when the car is unoccupied.



Let's not forget, human body fluid is consistently releasing moisture to the atmosphere, your saliva, your smelly sweat, your nose discharge when you sneeze



If you're free enough, can read the PDF also. Even sleeping bag also they do research on how human moist will affect cigaoxin

Studies

Korek. Kat belakang sana, atas ECU mia tempat ada lobang sedut angin. Kat sana la paling best. Nak gantung freshener ke, perfume ke, smua bagui




Masok atas kabin filter? Camni ke?



The package too fat, won't fit Your's is FLX rite? The receiver door open from the right, correct? If FL/Shawie, even worst. Masok boley, but wanna take out that time... You'll probably scared the package get wrecked and drop those charcoal into the blower fan

p/s: If you rajin enough, can go buy those kopi filter, open up the daiso pack and fill it into the kopi filter make it smaller package then can fit in the cabin filter liao



This post has been edited by davidke20: Mar 8 2015, 11:11 AM

If you're referring to the aircond blower receiver intake, yes that's the same place both BLM/FLX draw air from. Which is also why if you have a passenger with yeti foot, your whole car smells like a rotten corpse because the aircond receiver draw air from that exact place where passenger place their feet

Nope it's not a design flaw. Not only our crappy Plotong GaGa, all other cars draw air from the lowest possible place in front of the car, for the reason of colder air is more dense, hence aircond design is always trying to draw colder air to maximize their cooling performance.