Konichiwa

BUy the bearing from bearing shop...can get less than 100/pc and send to workshop do...please refer last thread.

15 inch is enough already no point to go bigger coz your engine not SR20..

How to 2 leg braking on a pedal? Feet step on feet?
I'm also noob dont know LFB...sad...

Gaga can do heel n toe.

If u say not pushing out exhaust fast enough means the exhaust gas flow is restrictive or it colds down too fast due to too big exhaust piping n becomes heavy and need more energy to push it out. I don't think adding a billet will help much.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Mar 7 2015, 08:12 AM

This!!!

Probably is ur camshaft timing sensor out already. Because on the rocker cover on the top right is a cam timing sensor.

Taxi spring is another type of spring they talking about which is on blm taxi.
Rear tire run mudguard is because tire is wider or the rim offset to outside. +30 rims at rear will definitely rub the body already one even u n 50 series. I've tried this setup +35 also will rub if you full load at rear and when go over high speed wavy part. What I did was I DIy rolled out my rear fender. Problem solved and with adjustables it was not rubbing. I think with rolled fender maximum the rear u can go is +33 only front 40-35 is good already

Pardon my kindergarten like drawing because I use finger to try on my screen.

1. the 2 outlet from rocker cover I use a T joint and a brass reducer to make this. The right side rocker cover breather hole is bigger than the 1 on left so you will need to different sizes of hose then you will know how to joint them up with the T joint and the reducer. Then I pull a single hose from the 2 joined ones into the OCT and the OCT outlet I just let it vent into atmosphere.

2. How about the hole at the intake pipe and at the intake manifold? I just plug them off with an silicone end cap where you can find in performance shops or spare part shop. cheap stuff only.

Wahla you are done. 1 more thing, make sure you mount your OCT away from the hot engine as far as possible or a place away from heat where the oil an cold down and pleace the OCT lower than your rocker cover so the condensed oil will flow into the tank..my when clean has a lot of oil inside

For your OCT you can use tupperware to make also. drill 2 holes into the side and put 2 male nipper into the tupperware and connect with hose. good tupperware..that can stand oven mia

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Mar 11 2015, 05:31 PM

air intake piep side iinm 10-11mm

Intake manifold side very small i cant measure just sumbat the stock hose with a besi

My both outlet also oily...hahaha

Hahaha lately just changed to Walbro E85 255l/hr pump lagi power...

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Mar 11 2015, 10:21 PM

I bough for 400 Genuine and DIY install. A note though Walbro got 2 types of in tank fuel pump although most the reference is not clear. Our stock FP body diameter is 37mm IINM the Walbro are 38mm and it will not fit, you need to find the Walbro pump with body diameter which is smaller and the internal design is different. It looks similar to the GS series but body just different diameter. I got the wrong pump and had to replaced them to the right one.

Also our stock harness will be enough to power the Walbro given that your supply is above 12V. With AC and load I'm getting 13. 87V and when rad fan kick in the V dips to 12.50V and back up again. I've already wired my relay kit to power the pump but not utilized it yet because the stock FPR will not able to regulate the fuel pressure if I increase the FP duty cycle. So I will need to run new fuel lines and ditch the returnless system to a return type before I up the supply to 14.60V to the FP and change out the stock wiring to the pump.

I will check again the stock FP diameter and let you know.

Takda ah...

Slow Slow wait...

APA NI BUDAK TADIKA BISING BISING!!!! TAK PAYAH KERJA KA!!!

APA LACING LACING NI?? TESCO OR GIANT MIA SHOPPING CART LACING KA?

Funker, no need honda I race you with lorry sampah

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Mar 13 2015, 07:03 PM

Fuiyoh...that smoke..WIN..

I have side bar and rolling on adjustables. From my usage in road n track. The front end n back of the car felt more in 1 piece rather than 2. Rear is now more following the front.

On wiring side, you can use independent PS but you need to have the FPC to control the triggering of the FP when you turn the key to ignition standby as the FP need to prime 1st. Now all cars have the FP primed 1st before ignition.

Its the same. Draw in fuel from bottom and out from top. But the Walbro fuel pump I have the internal design is the new one using something like a turbine fin blade instead of the bearing georotor like our oil pump. The sound is a bit more silent and it does not have that small valve on the top outlet which I don't know how to describe.

This is comparison between our stock Borsch FP bottom with the Walbro Georotor FP top. Same just Walbro body size bigger a bit.


This is out stock FP casing assembly fuel strainer will fit Walbro inlet no problem at all.


This is our in-tank FP regulator. When you put in after market FPR on FLX this needs to be disable by plugging the top hole with a cap.


Here's a video how it sounds like when hot. Cold time the sound is much louder.


Feel is very subjective and your car setup and mine is different so result will differ....

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Mar 17 2015, 11:28 AM

I don't feel any lag in my throttle respond. Step..Go...Step..Go..

Your fuel pressure is regulated by the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR), on stock car the stock FPR controls the pressure via a spring attached to a diaphragm not the ECU. ECU only monitors the fuel flow rate and pressure then adjust the PD (Pulse Duration) of injector to control how long the nozzle to stay open and the PD reduces as engine RPM increase. For Borsch injector they are reliable up to 85% of their duty cycle anymore and they will start to fail.

By now you should understand how the injector works and how it is controlled. So you ask will the EU compensate the higher flow rate. The ECU will only control the PD of the injector. Your fuel flow rate will increase once you swap to a high pressure high flow FP. The FPR will detect the higher pressure due to higher flow and regulate it. But due to the higher flow rate even with the FPR trying to bring down the pressure to stock set level. Technically speaking your fuel delivery /hr is still higher than stock pump hence your whole fuel line is has a higher pressure than stock.

The ECU has it's own fuel mapping but it will change slightly to match with the increased fuel but to an extend only. As I have not fully let the Walbro run at higher efficiency so the stock mapping still an coupe with the changes but from my usage I've noticed Fuel Consumption has increased.

Why I change to a high flow fuel pump is because on dyno my AFR is showing leaning issues at Mid to High rev range and overall the AFR is on the lean side starting from low. As I'm preparing to redo my entire fuel delivery system (returnless to return type) I drop in the Fuel Pump 1st then later on will put in an adjustable FPR to regulate and increased the fuel pressure where the stock FPR will not be able to handle anymore.

I drop in the Fuel Pump as a testing actually wanted to see how a high flow FP whether will help to reduce the leaning issue to a certain level and it did. My Mid to high rev now is much stronger compare to before where I can feel the engine starving for fuel. The stock FP was not able to deliver quick enough to supply the engine needs hence on dyno the graph shows a constant ----- only instead of keep going upwards until the fuel cut off kicks in.

Since not much info have gone into detail of the problem, I took things to my own and use my own car as a test bed. I've tried using a SR20 fuel rail but it was not a fit. injector outlet was off by few MM and with the stock pump it will not able to supply enough pressure at all to the larger fuel rail so with now the increased pressure. I'm dropping in bigger fuel rails and see what happens.