thanks. will check it tomorrow morning underneath the engine. so far no oil mark on my garage floor.

this some of the reason why i do every 5K service as i mentioned earlier, and replaced the air filter element at 10K interval.

The oil doesnt leak that much till it drops to the floor, it sips out and can see the oil stain around the rocker cover
looks similar like this

My car service by sc every 10k and instruct them to follow the service booklet.

Dear guys,

Need some help here. Am planning to get the new Exora. I noticed the side mirror cannot rotate out as much as the previous, meaning at the max I can see half of the cars body and the other half, see the road. This would pose a problem while overtaking. Any news of any replacement?

Secondly, the new Exora comes with DRL but without the "needed" fog/sport lamp. Any options on that?

TQ

This post has been edited by drpetra: May 24 2015, 12:04 PM

wow. this is pretty bad for a new car.
mines seems looking good.. also no sign of crack to the turbo hose going to the air filter unit.

I'm unlucky perhaps, few preve owner at facebook also had change this cam cover gasket before.
but I'm still enjoying my EB, ride is so awesome


but somehow i notice my fc is higher compare to when it was less than 30k km. FC meter currently ranging from 12.3-12.6
last time use to be 11.2-11.x

perhaps after 60k km major service fc will drop back to normal due to new spark plugs, fresh cvt oil, new air filter, and 10w30 eo

i also do the throttle body service for the 45K servicing. dont know, maybe just my feeling, but i its give better respond, at present i'm getting below 9.5. the best was 9.2. maybe can drop more if less idling.

the new BOLD SP got this side mirror problem? its the same design. how come like that?
i drive with my sit at the max position, and very comfortable with my side mirror, where it can be adjust in such a way that i can only see the last part of the rear window. 1/4 the body, 3/4 the road.
for the DRL, nay be you can 'tukar suka sama suka' with the seniors here. coz i remembered somebody did asked about the DRL before. i still prefer the fog lamp.

Recent 30k service I used shell helix ultra. Morning time harder to start, haha.
Using fully synthetic so I presume it's safe to do 10k service. Difficult for me find time every 5k.

tehsarbat the oil won't leak much so won't drop on floor. Arza's case is different. His type incident been reported before, so watch out.

arza04 the filter box is upside down and sort of have CAI, naturally will attract more bugs and external dirt. When the hose leak, it takes in hot air from engine room to cause FC increase.

drpetra I'm used to the side mirror, to me not different than other cars. No option to change DRL, need to sell aftermarket.

This post has been edited by alexei: May 24 2015, 04:41 PM

Bought the intake hose. Part number PW910011

RM50. Feel more flexible

The counter also said many owner also complaint bcoz crack easily

thanks arza04
How does it compare, in terms of appearance, to the older version? Mine is like shiny plastic.

Any update on brake pads?
I checked online, and it seems that my brake pads are considerably new, like the one in the left below. That's still a long way to go, if worn brake pads are supposed to look like the right one.

looks the same but more flexible and a bit thicker

Hi, Alexei,
Remember me about the Turbo die at 67K km? From the painful experience, I learn
(1) Don't use fully synthetic for 10K, it is best last for 5K only. For your information, my engine oil is Shell Helix Utra at 9+K when turbo die.
(2) In future I will use semi synthetic for every 5K, not more than every 3-4 months.
(3) To check and clean your engine oil pipe to turbo if you are not pratice number (2) above. 1st batch pipe may be smaller (not sure-need confirmation)
(4) Consider to use engine clean up treatment just before change engine oil at reasonable interval.
(5) Consider to change exhaust pipe to direct heat from turbo unit (not sure- need more study)
I can't reveal some of the information, if U follow above, ur turbo unit can last longer

Hi all,

New owner PEB 2015, Black. Just done my first 1000km service at Section 13, PJ. The location is near to my work place, the waiting area is big and nice. It would be nice if the car can be attended promptly, as still got abit of wait time when I'm there for the earlies appointment.

The other thing that I miss out and felt abit cheated that when I pay I found out the the EO used was Syntium 800 Semi. Was expecting fully like Syntium 1000. The explanation that was provided that all of their service, used semi and only fully when requested. I know part of my mistake is that I should have ask, but didn't expect also that they didn't explain. Lesson learn and also was mentioned S800 can use up to 10K km, can anyone verified? Any owner just did first service with S800, and is it RM 160+ ?

At this point, will point out 1 issue the car have come out (more on QC). The inner / inside part of the front right side dashboard have rattling sound, obvious when going through uneven roads and yellow lines. Didn't have the time to leave the car there to be rectify and hate / sad for the new car to start dismantle.

Other thing observe but not sure is consider a problem or not:

1. Can't get the breaking ABS out, breaking at 80kmh and 100kmh, the car will stop with good breaking (very short distance, that I like) but can't get the ABS engage.

2. When the car slow accelerate and then release the paddle, the car felt that small jerk with some small sound, not sure if this a the car problem or the characteristic of the car.

At this point satisfied with the car with the space, comfort and speed / acceleration (although only go 80kmh, and will try more after this first service)

edit: recheck the forum and last few pages that alexei provided the link / information on car service and that stated the use of the EO Semi Synthetic.

This post has been edited by KidsCode: May 26 2015, 01:11 PM

Really thank you for taking the time to share your experience. My mileage is halfway there, would want to do anything within my power to prevent it from happening. Can you PM me those sensitive information that you can't reveal? It's ok if it's personal and I don't need to know.

To be honest, I disagree with you. On #3, the oil pipe size, it that should not matter because it is the oil passage internal to the turbo that cooks engine oil, not the oil line that supplies oil to the turbo...

My car just done 30k. First 1k oil was unknown, 2nd oil is Syntium 800, 3rd oil is Syntium 1000, and 4th oil Helix Ultra.

The turbo that EB use, the KP39A is very established in VW Turbo Diesel since 2005, I have read a few things here and there. Basically, it is a must to use fully synthetic. According to VW service manual, it is good for up to 16k km oil change interval. In other words, for VW TDI engine, as long as using fully synthetic that certified VW502 or better, it can last that long.

Reference: 2006 VW service interval
What oil to use for Jetta engines...

For your case, what were the oils used before switching to Helix Ultra? Turbo or engine failure can be problems built up over time. If it is sludge, it is formed immediately, and also over time, under heat, engine stress and many other factors. Engine oil needs to have good sludge control. If you use semi-syn, or oil with poor sludge control, eventhough the change interval is short, the sludge will still form. Changing oil more often, vs using a good oil for longer interval, I choose the later. Also, sending to Proton for oil change is bad for wallet. They charge RM60 for labor.

One page I read about poor engine design, specifically dealing with Turbo engines, is using any oil other than fully synthetic, can cause dramatic sludge build up, and clogging up the turbo oil line and causing it to fail. Source: Engines to avoid

Another thing about oil is, P1SC is giving out older packing Syntiums, which are only API-SM certified. Although it is recommended by Proton service manual, but, at that time, API-SN is very new. Newer Syntium have qualified for API-SN, but not sure if there is any change in formulation or not. The thing about API-SN over API-SM is that, it includes ILSAC-GF5. GF-5 specifically tests for sludge control, among other things. Later, API-SN incorporates ILSAC GF5. If you want more info, can look up how the test method for ILSAC GF5. In other words, anything less than API-SN, or ILSAC GF5 is not suitable for CFE.
Source: ILSAC certifications
Now, ILSAC GF6 is under draft, and focuses on more interesting things that affects our cars...

I just want to share my thoughts and knowledge, no mean to offend you.
If you think I'm wrong, feel free point it out.

This post has been edited by alexei: May 27 2015, 10:25 AM

that is a very accurate explanation.

weird, after service the car doesnt felt like the same, engine slightly noisy and not so smooth

you sure thats the problem? Mine EB 2015 had noise too when accelerate slowly n let go. Ask SC to check in the end they identified its a gearbox mounting problem. After changing it no noise at all... Accordingly common problem for EB 2015 model.

Hmm, then I need to check again with them, let me drive abit more and identified a few more issues. Can I know when you mentioned that change, check the whole gear box or change the mounting?

just change the mounting...

thanks for the info, anyway other issues your EB2015 you encounter?