Hi Alex,
Previously I have tried 0W20 and the answer is:

1) No oil consumption - which was my initial concern also.
2) FC may had improve a tiny bit, which is barely noticeable . The fuel brands will affect it noticebly.
3) Water temperature according to OBD remains normal

Do I still recommend 0w20? Yes still , if he drives the car for short distance. It may improve abit of FC like I say.
Although I have tested for various normal conditions and it doesnt exhibit oil consumption.
But anyhow I have reverted back to 5w30.

Now why would you go 50 weight? Thats very thick for even modern engine.
I can understand its for the turbo, but even Proton themselves recommend 5w30.
Putting too high viscosity and its even worse, cause the oil will flow slower than usual.
50 weight is best for very high temperature application and continous high rev.
Traffic jam is not considered high temperature.

This article will explain clearly about high viscosity oil on race engines:
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/...oil-track-and-/

Doesn't it depend on the car manufacturer's recommendation? most nowadays engines ask for 0w20 as EO stock even with Turbo. But Campro be it cps/vvt/cfe never gets with 0w20 recommendation.

I think my CFE is driven quite hard, and very less traffic jam. Average FC is 11L, and coolant temp hits the fan limit quite often.
Adding to that, it's 130k km liao, maybe will have more blow-by, and causing oil thinning.

That in mind, I have the old mindset of using higher vis oil so the oil can tahan the heat. All the while, I err on the higher vis side to be 'safe'. Maybe that's wrong. In a way, whenever I feel like WOT, I can do it with a peace of mind without having to worry about 'what if the xW30 oil cannot take it' in the back of my head. Once a while, I'd do it just to hear the engine roar at 3.5k RPM. Not sure you noticed, mine makes a different howl. Maybe there is a VVT effect after all.



Looking at the oil specs, maybe 5W50 is too thick but with very high TBN.

Yeah, I'm amazed, but they use in-house designed turbo, not like CFE taking a Borg-Warner KP39A.

For this I'm following the Proton owners manual which only gives a oil temperature chart. No clear recommendation written by Proton.
Luckily i still have the previous photo attachment in LYN. Click on the link (photo is very high resolution )

https://forum.lowyat.net/uploads//attach-16...-1547540204.jpg

As you can see, based on Proton's manual it says the 5w-20 is only up to minus 10C .
So I took my own risk and poured in the 0w20. Well, it survived throughout the entire oil interval.
Now I do not know why 5w30 oil chart is showing up to +10C only. If really its rated up to 10C or negative 10C with 0w20 , with our hot weather, the engine would had long seized up. There is no difference between the 5w30 and 10w30 except for the "cold" temperature viscosity.
Right now I'm using the Mizu 5w30. So far it has been running happily.

I totally agree with you that modern turbo engines, even Honda themselves, uses 0w20 in their turbos. My only guess is that Lotus did not test it with 0w20.

The front number by lower temp range, the back number by upper temp range.
The smaller the gap between front and back number, the better oil quality (old school thinking).
- For example: 15W40 is better than 10W40.

The Proton recommended oil is similar to generic oil visco chart from last time. Designed using 90~00's rule and technology. Modern engines running 0W20 to 0W16 are very different.

I'll go xW30 or xW40 after this.

Proton:


Generic:

if my car recommendation with 0w20, does it ok with 0w16?

I remember long time ago saw a Proton article on CFE engine. It says it was designed with mineral oil 10W30 in mind. Local ambient temp is around 30+C. Looking at the photo, 10W30 seems the most ideal, good for ambient temperature up to 40C. 5W40 or 5W50 only protects up to ambient temperature of 20C. 10W40 and 10W50 protects up to over 50C which is more for the Sahara desert. That is what I use and never have any problem.

haha, see your luck lo. But, I feel it's less aggressive than using xW20 on the CFE. I haven't look at the visco values, but that should be where I'll start.

maybe later I try xW20 on Exora and see how

There is 0w16 sold by Petronas, its rare, however once you see the price at RM 200+, you will think its not worth paying extra for thinner oil. I would think 0w16 is still alright for non-turbo cars, presuming the engine temperature is cool enough.

Here is an example of Liqui Moly 0w16 I found:
https://shopee.com.my/LIQUI-MOLY-0W16-SPECI...dc-c837d1f4f038

Liqui Moly MOS2 Oil additive
Earlier on you asked me why should I pour engine oil additives, this part I also agree with you .
I was merely testing this Liqui Moly MOS2 (plus now I'm using 5w30 instead of 0w20), which Liqui Moly claims can reduce friction to reduce FC and heat.
Its unfortunate I barely see any FC gains, just like the 0w20. However my feeling is that, with the MOS2 liquid, it adds addtional metal friction protection , which is vital for turbo engines under extra stress and heat.

Does it reduces heat? On my observation, it triggers less of the radiator fan on engine shutdown. Temperature still like to hover between average 87-88C, one time reached 90C due to hot weather and also standstill traffic (the car in front of mine, does contribute extra heat)

CVT cooler leak again - cooler hose crack
VVT leak



This post has been edited by alexei: May 24 2023, 07:02 PM

Just curious,
What was mileage or age, or is it a random thing, the cvt cooler leaks?
Didnt occur to me this thing can happen, or maybe I'm lucky it didnt happened on me.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: May 26 2023, 09:46 AM

100k over, first time I flew over speed hump and landed on the front. Changed absorber after that to handle the way I drive.
Second time, not sure, just started out of nowhere.

If u see the CVT cooler hose, is connected from the cooler and routed under the lower front chassis, and it's almost the lowest point behind the bumper

VVT leak has been for some time, at first I thought was OCH leak, then looked closer and found it
previous service changed the VVT oil seal
now is the VVT itself leaking on the back of the module

This post has been edited by alexei: May 26 2023, 01:30 PM

Rear cabin droning/booming noise resolved.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10172774-9999.pdf

In my case, the steering rack bushings seem to degrade rather quickly.

I have replaced them during warranty period, and several more after. Reasons I feel the need to change them, is when braking downhill, the steering will 'choose' to pull either left, or right.

Next, I am going to try a set of red bushings from shopee.

Steering rack bush. Happens to me every few months.
Change to PU silicone one now.

Will update.

Same as my last waja. Changed to PU blue color last long

One more thing, changed spark plugs. The NGK must've been at least 60k km.
Now on Denso. Noticeable less vibration and engine droning noise.

Initially planned to change engine mounting, but now will just live with it first. Current set are TRIM changed at SC 33k km ago.

Any recommendation for engine oil for my 10 years old exora bold? Latest one I use Petronas Syntium 800, but it's quite expensive. Any cheaper but still good eo to recommend?

Mizu Shopee mall fully synthetic oil

Thanks. Which one should I get? MIZU 5W30 https://shopee.com.my/-2022-API-SP-MIZU-5W3...4f-94f714a7bed6 or 5W40 https://shopee.com.my/2022-API-SP-MIZU-5W40...f1-b6ef73da1389?