Not really lah, I am a retired chef. Bike repairs are not really my bread and butter. I just provide services out of passion but many tends to treat me like a shop doing business so I only do if I wish. Many don't really appreciate it and also just because I ask for some compensation like for grease/oil and parts payment, I am like doing business. The little tube of Finish Line lub cost me RM45 too, you know. My wife has been warning me to either stop doing or charge accordingly so I decided to quit.

PS/ I was also a boatyard manager before in Langkawi so technical items fascinates me. I was a mountain biker there and repairing and assembling bikes becomes simple to me. You just need to understand the theory of the components. I started when I bought a Dahon Eco C7 and wanted more gears on it. I took to a shop in Bdr Mahkota Cheras and the shop keeper said it cannot be done and started telling a whole load of bull! So, I bought a set of tools and started doing my bike and I managed to put in 27 speed onto my Eco C7. Then my wife's Boardwalk also got the same treatment and we travelled places with it. That's how I started to understand folding bikes. Those times, nobody ever modded foldies before and many shop thinks it cannot be done and should not even be done. Another good modder is Fei Lee from GW Cycle but he charges high fees for modding, I mean it is just fair right? It's a specialised field.

Other than that, most good modders are DIYs. Bike shops don't really have the time to actually find ways to do this or do that. And many shops are handled by foreigners anyway. So, when other riders sees what I did, some wanted too so that's how it started.But I think if you are serious in riding, you should also get a tool set and start fiddling. It's not rocket science actually.

For the sake of knowledge, let's say if I start something like coaching, anyone interested. Complete dis-assemble the whole bike and then assemble it back. That way the A to Z of bike maintenance in all inclusive.

This post has been edited by etigge: Sep 3 2015, 02:36 AM

Aiyoyo.... now down to speed & vigor & MU... price about the same.

I assume speed frame will be heavy due to steel & maybe rusty but better comfort ride compare to MU & Vigor.

While Vigor frame are meant for speed ??

NOt sure about MU thought.





DIY.. i think i can la. i DIY install and dismantle car accessories. Bike mechanism should be not that difficult i guess

previously i own vybe c7a formelly known as eco c7 before i sold it to my sister.that frame doesnt have any chainstay.from what i can say,
i prefer a frame with a chainstay as it does give more stable feel comparing my verge, speed and vybe.thats why i forget about the mu frame accept mu slx (if i can recall it correct).

besides, i also mount the cateye strada double wireless cyclocomputer that can read cadence on my verge.those cyclocomputers with cadence capability does need a chainstay to mount it on

speed is crmo steel.it do rust if u not maintain it well.but as long as u keep it clean and well taken care, rust will be the last thing happen.

comparing my verge and the speed i do admit that my speed is more comfort than the verge.but now after upgrading to carbon fork on my verge the feel is almost the same if both bike using durano tyres.

well, its all based on personal preference after all, if u like the design, then just buy it.gearset, wheelset and other things can upgrade later.i've seen my friend upgrade his cheapo oscar bike before.

can try once and see if you can overcome the fear and like it over your usual mode of transportation. the fierce drivers will not go away, but we can try to ride very carefully I was scared too, yesterday, at first, but just try my best to ride carefully. and think about the first time we ride a car independently in a busy highway, it's the same feeling that will go away.

sankyu sankyu, people like you inspired me first!

btw, i wanna ask about pump, and other essential items to carry around. is the cheap slim hand pump in mr d.i.y sufficient to do the job or that's trash? do you guys install the pump on your bike? On other items like patch kits and spare tube, where do we put it? the small saddle bag that put under the saddle? if needed to fold the bike and put in bike bag for trains does it need to be taken off? also those who install pannier bag to carry clothes etc. can it still be fold to be brought in train? or that only suitable if you need not to fold bike on your way?

thanks for sharing!

save some more and get a floor pump instead.i got my floor pump at diy around rm40++ with meter.as long u can know how much preasure u pump, that its good

bydaway for handpump i always buy a good one, and wire type one like the topeak race rocket.a bit pricey, but its a good pump.

i had bad experience with cheap pump already since those pump give my tube koyak when pump the air.lucky me that time got my friend to help around!

oh something like this? http://bicyclebuysell.com/item/293932/orig...si-free-postage

so you have both floor pump and also the carry in your bike one?

if we pump, how much pressure is for the standard packaged tyres?

stdt package tyre i think around 60-70psi

anyway, the hand pump always had bracket and can attach to the bottlecage hole.tube and lever i put besides lowet seat tube and tight it with black tape

Make sure you have a very bright tail light and use it, yes even during the day. Be Seen!

my bike arrive safely in Sabah altho i sense airport fellas throw here and there. lol
Since UMS bc eco-campus recently,the whole campus is covered with bicycle lane. And quite tough to cycle,hilly areas. Struggling with my 7 spd Ugo. Really cant imagine cycle to my classes. Sure sweat heavily upon reaching.
BUt lots of nice sceneries and beach too. At night saw a lot of bikers on rb cycling around. Was told a lot of bikers came to the campus juz to cycle.

Dear sifu's / master,

newbie in foldie report in,....

now, we few buddy plan to get a foldie to start our cycling hobby, and due to space constraint, we decided go for foldie..

have been survey for last few days, went to many bike shop in klang valley...

looking at luxury & budget range,...

beside branded stuff like Dahon, Birdy, Tern, Bropmton, Tyrell I have tried,...

I do spotted many fancy brand, like Java, TrinX, Twitter, XDS, ...

Have also test ride, have almost full spec (full speed), compare with branded only 8/9 speed...
and surprisingly the handling also quite comfort and well...

I am MTB biker, really newbie in Foldie,

Can I know & to seek for advice,

1. What are the major difference between the branded and the 'cheap' foldie
2. Some biker told me cheap bike will brake the joint, is it true ???
3. What are the major & minor upgrade needed to beautify foldie ?
4. Many foldie choose brand to get together, this is what I understand from some foldie group?
5. What speed shall we start with for a real noob?

Please share your view...
Appreciated your advice...

Cheers,
Jungle Boy

Hi D3vilsim,

I have a java fit and dahon route which is around the same price. From my experience, java is easier for a beginner as it have wider gear ratio. 52/42 with 11/32 which you can go faster and easier to climb hills.
As for dahon route, the gear ratio of 52 wirh 14/28 is a narrow and you tend to struggle in climbing hills.
I've let my friends who just started riding bicycle to test both bicycle and all of them choose java fit over dahon route.
I like dahon route folding mechanism. It's easier to fold and it feels really solid. The frame are longer and it feels better for me to cycle. I can stand up and pedal with more confidence than java fit. However with such a narrow gear range, it just don't perform as it should be. Unless you upgrade the gear set components. It's like a unpolished jewel.
As I need another bike, I've consider dahon speed but with that kind of price I can get a java IRA 451 cromoly body with carbon fork and comes with 18 speed. Body frame are longer and it's much more stable than java fit.
What beginner need is a wider gear range so that we can cover more terrain. But as your leg gets stronger, you do not need such a low gear anymore. As for me, given me a dahon route, I can climb the same hills with more joy compare to the first time I'm using it.
As for upgrading a dahon to dual chain ring, it didn't make your bike faster, it only makes your bike climb hills easier.

Thanks PaulKong brother for sharing the knowledge.

I most probably will go for Dahon. But up to this point i still can't decide to get Vigor or MU D8 or Speed D8. Price around the same.

Was shortlisted Vigor & MU but saw many rider here own Speed and give very good comments on Speed.

So ................................. Pening


hhahahahhaa

I went with Vigor because:

1. First I ruled out Speed as I don't want to worry about rust, and don't mind the little hasher ride of aluminium body of Vigor/Mu.
2. Second, between Vigor and Mu, I prefer Vigor's design, and also it has chainstay with benefits mentioned by ettige and azamunekurone.

So.................................. Simple

Thanks whateva2k ... !! Thanks !!!!

What is the 1st change/mod to make Vigor a better bike ?

Should i go for lighter seatpost & comfort saddle 1st ?? or add crank / upgrade FD ? Or ???



In order to understand and communicate with you all here. I need this dictionary




This post has been edited by D3vilsim: Sep 4 2015, 11:59 AM

I agree with you regarding the comparisons but folding bikes were meant for commuting and was never meant for long distance touring and also never meant for hill climbing. Although it is possible and it's a challenge for many to do so, it really doesn't hurt in fact it should be encouraged. Off course, the FIT will be favoured if you test it but that's for the wrong assumption. Just like the Dahon Boardwalk, it uses 52 chainring in the former models and lately they switched it to only 48T. This means the ride will always be lighter and many newbies perceived it as an improvement because it is easy to pedal as it was lighter pedalling effort. What they don't realize it was the gear ratios that made it lighter and the bike moves slower than before. You know 48T , one revolution means 4.36 turns at the rear (let's say if you are using 11T at the rear) compared to 52T which turns 4.72 turns. The figure looks small and seems negligible but when you are doing it 80 times per minute ( this is cadence) that's 28.8 turns per minute and if you ride 30 minutes that's 864 turns that you lost to the 52T crank. That my friend is, ) assuming it is a 406 tire with 1.5 inch width, the circumference of the tire is 1.54 meters, this is per revolution ) 864 turns which means 1.33 kilometers for the same revolution.

Too technical already My opinion is, it is better to start riding hard and progress rather than start easy and never progress as it will get harder and harder. Eg. in my case, I started on 7 speed. Changed gear furiously when doing Putrajaya Lake 12 km loop. Later started to change less and after 3 months it gear was stuck to 15T at the rear and never changed, then do 2 loops or go over the bridge to the Aquatic Center side to complete 20 km.
Then I moved to triple chainring and it became too easy and started moving to other venues like Genting Perez, Genting Sempah and finally Fraser's Hill. If you start with an 18 speed, you will never increase your pedal effort as the lighter gears are all there. Once you hit a harder slope, the 18 speed won't be enough as you are so used to using it on a flat.

If you are riding with a permanent partner, make sure both bikes are the same specs. This will assure that both will advance equally. if not in later stages , the lesser one will slow down the other.

First rule is comfort when riding. That means, the contact points which are your saddle, bar grips and pedals, in that order. Once your butt ache, that's practically the end of your ride for that day. It will take some time to ease the pain. So, get suitable saddle. Sadly, in our country, you cannot return your saddle if it is not right. In my case, I have bought 7 saddles except Brooks (why I still can't comprehend) already. Started with Selle Royal , those big big ones (thought they are comfy but are not) , then slimmer ones and then Fizik Gobi, then Morgaw Trium , then back to Selle Royal Dardo and then finally I got one that suits me, A CHEAP 50 BUCKS one. I bought 3 of those and keep. So now I have a whole bike of expensive components but a 50 bucks saddle

Contact also means a good riding gloves. Yes, gloves are not only for protection but also for grip easing so you won't get numb!

I suggest you get the bike first and start riding. Slowly you will know what you want to upgrade.

My first 2-3 rides, my butt aches. I have not been riding bicycle for many years before that.

Because of that, I was planning to change the saddle. After weekly rides for about 1-2 months, the stock saddle doesn't bother me at all now. Its comfortable enough for me now. So I didn't change.

Another thing that bothers me at first is the Neos twist shifter. So I decided to change it. I bought the shifter, but no time to change until now. haha... By now I've learned to adapt to it so its not as annoying as before. I will change it soon....

So basically I've not change anything. But I've added speed and cadence sensor, bottle cage, front and rear LED light, side mirror, saddle bag, and a bell .

Unless you leave your bike outside in the rain and sun, a steel bike could outlast you! :-)

My 30year+ old steel bikes have no rust whatsoever. Look after it and it will look after you!

Very smart advice and likely to put bicycle shops out of business! LOL

Haha...not true la.

For me as I start riding, I will find new needs and will make purchases accordingly.

But, before getting the bike, I had all sorts of plans to change this and that. After getting the bike and riding it, you will know whether you need this and that for your riding.

Everyone rides differently.