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 Folding Bicycles v4 - Not only Folding Bikes, Folding bicycle discussion

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edmundcwh
post Sep 4 2015, 02:48 PM

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QUOTE(D3vilsim @ Sep 4 2015, 10:53 AM)
Thanks PaulKong brother for sharing the knowledge.

I most probably will go for Dahon. But up to this point i still can't decide to get Vigor or MU D8 or Speed D8.  Price around the same.

Was shortlisted Vigor & MU but saw many rider here own Speed and give very good comments on Speed.

So ................................. Pening  rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif 
hhahahahhaa
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Ahh.. Under such circumstances, you should get the one which give you the most macam yes riding look biggrin.gif
D3vilsim
post Sep 4 2015, 04:46 PM

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QUOTE(etigge @ Sep 4 2015, 12:35 PM)
First rule is comfort when riding. That means, the contact points which are your saddle, bar grips and pedals, in that order. Once your butt ache, that's practically the end of your ride for that day. It will take some time to ease the pain. So, get suitable saddle. Sadly, in our country, you cannot return your saddle if it is not right. In my case, I have bought 7 saddles except Brooks (why I still can't comprehend) already. Started with Selle Royal , those big big ones (thought they are comfy but are not) , then slimmer ones and then Fizik Gobi, then Morgaw Trium , then back to Selle Royal Dardo and then finally I got one that suits me, A CHEAP 50 BUCKS one. tongue.gif  I bought 3 of those and keep. So now I have a whole bike of expensive components but a 50 bucks saddle  tongue.gif  blush.gif

Contact also means a good riding gloves. Yes, gloves are not only for protection but also for grip easing so you won't get numb! icon_rolleyes.gif
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QUOTE(whateva2k @ Sep 4 2015, 12:38 PM)
I suggest you get the bike first and start riding. Slowly you will know what you want to upgrade.

My first 2-3 rides, my butt aches. I have not been riding bicycle for many years before that.

Because of that, I was planning to change the saddle. After weekly rides for about 1-2 months, the stock saddle doesn't bother me at all now. Its comfortable enough for me now. So I didn't change.

Another thing that bothers me at first is the Neos twist shifter. So I decided to change it. I bought the shifter, but no time to change until now. haha... By now I've learned to adapt to it so its not as annoying as before. I will change it soon.... tongue.gif

So basically I've not change anything. But I've added speed and cadence sensor, bottle cage, front and rear LED light, side mirror, saddle bag, and a bell  tongue.gif.
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QUOTE(edmundcwh @ Sep 4 2015, 02:48 PM)
Ahh.. Under such circumstances, you should get the one which give you the most macam yes riding look  biggrin.gif
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Thanks all for the advise !! greatly appreciate !

Edmund, damn all 3 model also macam yes ler !! hahahaha.


i got this just now before i got my ride yet hahahahha. self poisoned kao kao





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TSH2D
post Sep 4 2015, 04:59 PM

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jdm dahon....

double standard... biggrin.gif

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D3vilsim
post Sep 4 2015, 08:42 PM

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Dash 2016 is far far more sexy than 2015 !!!

PaulKong
post Sep 4 2015, 10:31 PM

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QUOTE(D3vilsim @ Sep 4 2015, 08:42 PM)
Dash 2016 is far far more sexy than 2015 !!!
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Any dash is sexy 😍😍😍
PaulKong
post Sep 5 2015, 07:27 AM

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QUOTE(etigge @ Sep 4 2015, 12:28 PM)
I agree with you regarding the comparisons but folding bikes were meant for commuting and was never meant for long distance touring and also never meant for hill climbing. biggrin.gif  Although it is possible and it's a challenge for many to do so, it really doesn't hurt in fact it should be encouraged. Off course, the FIT will be favoured if you test it but that's for the wrong assumption. Just like the Dahon Boardwalk, it uses 52 chainring in the former models and lately they switched it to only 48T. This means the ride will always be lighter and many newbies perceived it as an improvement because it is easy to pedal as it was lighter pedalling effort. What they don't realize it was the gear ratios that made it lighter and the bike moves slower than before. You know 48T , one revolution means 4.36 turns at the rear (let's say if you are using 11T at the rear) compared to 52T which turns 4.72 turns. The figure looks small and seems negligible but when you are doing it 80 times per minute ( this is cadence) that's 28.8 turns per minute and if you ride 30 minutes that's 864 turns that you lost to the 52T crank. That my friend is, ) assuming it is a 406 tire with 1.5 inch width, the circumference of the tire is 1.54 meters, this is per revolution )  864 turns which means 1.33 kilometers for the same revolution.

Too technical already  rclxub.gif My opinion is, it is better to start riding hard and progress rather than start easy and never progress as it will get harder and harder. Eg. in my case, I started on 7 speed. Changed gear furiously when doing Putrajaya Lake 12 km loop. Later started to change less and after 3 months it gear was stuck to 15T at the rear and never changed, then do 2 loops or go over the bridge to the Aquatic Center side to complete 20 km.
Then I moved to triple chainring and it became too easy and started moving to other venues like Genting Perez, Genting Sempah and finally Fraser's Hill. If you start with an 18 speed, you will never increase your pedal effort as the lighter gears are all there. Once you hit a harder slope, the 18 speed won't be enough as you are so used to using it on a flat.

If you are riding with a permanent partner, make sure both bikes are the same specs. This will assure that both will advance equally. if not in later stages , the lesser one will slow down the other.  nod.gif
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Yes, I agree. Most first perception is how easy is it for a person to ride a bike. Most people are not good in modifications or doesn't want to do any upgrade. They just want to buy a bike as it is. It really depend on what kind of passion a person have. Are you just a leisure rider or you like to upgrade your bike.
Options to upgrade is always expensive. It could cost half of your bike price. And that bring us to think. If I buy RM 2k plus for dahon speed and upgrade later and it's going to cost RM 3k plus, why not just get a better dahon bike like dahon dash?
As for riding with partner and kids, I always let tham ride the easy bike and I'll ride the harder bike so as to equalised the leg power we have 😁😁😁
However, as everyone says here, just buy a bike that you like and start from there. There's no right or wrong choice.
etigge
post Sep 5 2015, 11:04 AM

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QUOTE(PaulKong @ Sep 5 2015, 07:27 AM)
Yes, I agree. Most first perception is how easy is it for a person to ride a bike. Most people are not good in modifications or doesn't want to do any upgrade. They just want to buy a bike as it is. It really depend on what kind of passion a person have. Are you just a leisure rider or you like to upgrade your bike.
Options to upgrade is always expensive. It could cost half of your bike price. And that bring us to think. If I buy RM 2k plus for dahon speed and upgrade later and it's going to cost RM 3k plus, why not just get a better dahon bike like dahon dash?
As for riding with partner and kids, I always let tham ride the easy bike and I'll ride the harder bike so as to equalised the leg power we have 😁😁😁
However, as everyone says here, just buy a bike that you like and start from there. There's no right or wrong choice.
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Though many do not follow what I have said, I have always stress to new riders to start with a good frame. That's the paramount criteria IF you are serious in riding for long. I say that because there are many who are just 'tahi tahi ayam' kind of riders. They just conform to others without actually getting involved. Once you have a strong and good frame, it doesn't matter if the upgraded components cost twice or thrice or even quadraple the cost of the initial bike. Good components cost a lot and the very reason is durability and precision. You don't want to go riding and then halfway problems crops up. Of course this doesn't apply to 'taman riders'.

A branded entry bike rides better with good components than a 'so so' all have' bike. But bike companies do not really want to put good components as many use price as their main attraction factor. So, they just 'OEM'ed outdated or discontinued parts in bulk and incorporate into their lineup. This is to make price attractive but still the price is high if compared to the same specs. Sadly, here in Malaysia, there are still NO custom builders for foldies where frames and components are sold separately. What we do is just get the best and cheapest good frame and start with it.

Even if you change frame, the good components stays with you. As I did with mine long ago. When I wanted to change the Eco C7 to Speed P8, I took out all the new components from the Speed P8 and assembled on the Eco C7 and vice versa, The Eco C7 can still be sold for the price I bought new as Speed P8 components are better than the original. Another alternative is keep all the new components and assemble them back when you want to sell them.

It really makes a lot of difference when you ride and your bike works perfectly. Good components stay better tuned longer than the entry level components. Doesn't it make sense to use them if you don't know how to repair and depends on a local bike shop to tune and service the bike. It's a one time investment. If you use a Dahon and upgrade to the max, the price still won't be higher than a Birdy with stock components which are entry level. Or a Brompton which the price has now gone to almost 8K already. A Dahon Route with 2 x 10 Shimano 105 roadbike components and sealed bearing hubs will most definitely ride smoother than the boutique bikes ( a term I coined for those expensive bikes ). And this is just mid range and even if you take the best Dura Ace components, the price is just about the same. IMO, I rather have top components and mediocre frame and fork than a top range frame with lousy components. icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by etigge: Sep 5 2015, 11:08 AM
PaulKong
post Sep 5 2015, 02:10 PM

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QUOTE(etigge @ Sep 5 2015, 11:04 AM)
Though many do not follow what I have said, I have always stress to new riders to start with a good frame. That's the paramount criteria IF you are serious in riding for long. I say that because there are many who are just 'tahi tahi ayam' kind of riders. They just conform to others without actually getting involved.  Once you have a strong and good frame, it doesn't matter if the upgraded components cost twice or thrice or even quadraple the cost of the initial bike. Good components cost a lot  and the very reason is durability and precision. You don't want to go riding and then halfway problems crops up. Of course this doesn't apply to 'taman riders'.

A branded entry bike rides better with good components than a 'so so' all have' bike. But bike companies do not really want to put good components as many use price as their main attraction factor. So, they just 'OEM'ed outdated or discontinued parts in bulk and incorporate into their lineup. This is to make price attractive but still the price is high if compared to the same specs. Sadly, here in Malaysia, there are still NO custom builders for foldies where frames and components are sold separately. What we do is just get the best and cheapest good frame and start with it.

Even if you change frame, the good components stays with you. As I did with mine long ago. When I wanted to change the Eco C7 to Speed P8, I took out all the new components from the Speed P8 and assembled on the Eco C7 and vice versa, The Eco C7 can still be sold for the price I bought new as Speed P8 components are better than the original. Another alternative is keep all the new components and assemble them back when you want to sell them.

It really makes a lot of difference when you ride and your bike works perfectly. Good components stay better tuned longer than the entry level components. Doesn't it make sense to use them if you don't know how to repair and depends on a local bike shop to tune and service the bike. It's a one time investment. If you use a Dahon and upgrade to the max, the price still won't be higher than a Birdy with stock components which are entry level. Or a Brompton which the price has now gone to almost 8K already. A Dahon Route with 2 x 10 Shimano 105 roadbike components and sealed bearing hubs will most definitely ride smoother than the boutique bikes ( a term I coined for those expensive bikes ). And this is just mid range and even if you take the best Dura Ace components, the price is just about the same. IMO, I rather have top components and mediocre frame and fork than a top range frame with lousy components.  icon_rolleyes.gif
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You have the point. Actually, I'm more inclined towards dahon too. I'm always admire the way you guys upgrading your bike. Maybe I'm trying to resist the dark side ( poison) of this passion. It's a expensive hobby 😄😄😄

azamunekurone
post Sep 5 2015, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(etigge @ Sep 5 2015, 11:04 AM)
Though many do not follow what I have said, I have always stress to new riders to start with a good frame. That's the paramount criteria IF you are serious in riding for long. I say that because there are many who are just 'tahi tahi ayam' kind of riders. They just conform to others without actually getting involved.  Once you have a strong and good frame, it doesn't matter if the upgraded components cost twice or thrice or even quadraple the cost of the initial bike. Good components cost a lot  and the very reason is durability and precision. You don't want to go riding and then halfway problems crops up. Of course this doesn't apply to 'taman riders'.

A branded entry bike rides better with good components than a 'so so' all have' bike. But bike companies do not really want to put good components as many use price as their main attraction factor. So, they just 'OEM'ed outdated or discontinued parts in bulk and incorporate into their lineup. This is to make price attractive but still the price is high if compared to the same specs. Sadly, here in Malaysia, there are still NO custom builders for foldies where frames and components are sold separately. What we do is just get the best and cheapest good frame and start with it.

Even if you change frame, the good components stays with you. As I did with mine long ago. When I wanted to change the Eco C7 to Speed P8, I took out all the new components from the Speed P8 and assembled on the Eco C7 and vice versa, The Eco C7 can still be sold for the price I bought new as Speed P8 components are better than the original. Another alternative is keep all the new components and assemble them back when you want to sell them.

It really makes a lot of difference when you ride and your bike works perfectly. Good components stay better tuned longer than the entry level components. Doesn't it make sense to use them if you don't know how to repair and depends on a local bike shop to tune and service the bike. It's a one time investment. If you use a Dahon and upgrade to the max, the price still won't be higher than a Birdy with stock components which are entry level. Or a Brompton which the price has now gone to almost 8K already. A Dahon Route with 2 x 10 Shimano 105 roadbike components and sealed bearing hubs will most definitely ride smoother than the boutique bikes ( a term I coined for those expensive bikes ). And this is just mid range and even if you take the best Dura Ace components, the price is just about the same. IMO, I rather have top components and mediocre frame and fork than a top range frame with lousy components.  icon_rolleyes.gif
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couldnt agree more with you bro!
my verge got the component nearly the best like the new verge x20 with the cost of upgrading didnt achive the price for new verge x20

still, i custom all my component and upgrade it slowly depends on my budget
rkhairulrijal
post Sep 6 2015, 12:22 AM

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Putrajaya - KLIA2 - Putrajaya

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Rev (^_^')
post Sep 6 2015, 01:57 AM

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Thanks so much for sharing! notworthy.gif

Guys, I am looking for a used Dahon bike. Anyone want to sell?

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D3vilsim
post Sep 6 2015, 01:58 AM

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GUys,

Went to tommy's shop today. very sorry trouble him so long but never buy anything from him yet. was plan to get Vigor but saw IOS9 is really temping.


Any bro review here ? thanks
edmundcwh
post Sep 6 2015, 03:30 PM

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QUOTE(D3vilsim @ Sep 6 2015, 01:58 AM)
GUys,

Went to tommy's shop today. very sorry trouble him so long but never buy anything from him yet. was plan to get Vigor but saw IOS9 is really temping.
Any bro review here ? thanks
*
24" wheel folding bike.. No good..
azamunekurone
post Sep 6 2015, 04:46 PM

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its been a while didnt post picture

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etigge
post Sep 6 2015, 05:11 PM

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QUOTE(D3vilsim @ Sep 6 2015, 01:58 AM)
GUys,

Went to tommy's shop today. very sorry trouble him so long but never buy anything from him yet. was plan to get Vigor but saw IOS9 is really temping.
Any bro review here ? thanks
*
Who is Tommy? tongue.gif According to Kimbell Jaya, the IOS has brake problems. The hydraulic disc brake ( Yes, hydraulic shocking.gif ) is problematic. Jimmy replaced a Shimano set for the one he sold the other day. No extra charge.
D3vilsim
post Sep 6 2015, 06:11 PM

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QUOTE(etigge @ Sep 6 2015, 05:11 PM)
Who is Tommy?  tongue.gif  According to Kimbell Jaya, the IOS has brake problems.  The hydraulic disc brake ( Yes, hydraulic  shocking.gif  ) is problematic. Jimmy replaced a Shimano set for the one he sold the other day. No extra charge.
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oh ..what about the bike it self? compare seems more solid than vigor. and also the component. brake is not a concern .. i dont mind he change me with V brake. according to all bro all claim V is better that disc for fold.

azamunekurone
post Sep 6 2015, 07:43 PM

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QUOTE(D3vilsim @ Sep 6 2015, 06:11 PM)
oh ..what about the bike it self? compare seems more solid than vigor. and also the component. brake is not a concern .. i dont mind he change me with V brake. according to all bro all claim V is better that disc for fold.
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consider u like to backpacking later, the 24" are quite big rather than 20".20" can slip nicely into buses or others.

besides, tubes are hard to find at village small bike shop compare to town.

thats my 2 cents only laugh.gif
desastar
post Sep 6 2015, 08:10 PM

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I spent some time tinkling with my Miss Tikit today. Wanted to increase gearing and was considering changing to a larger chainring. Was about to do that and then I remembered this bike had 165mm cranks and I really preferred 170cm. Tried a set from my Surly bike but the chainring did not fit. Then I remembered having a spare set of 54T cranks for the Brompton. Had to in the end replaced the bottom bracket for a slightly wider one, and they all fitted! Now my American bike is part English, hahaha!




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PaulKong
post Sep 6 2015, 09:42 PM

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Hi,

Anyone are using schwalbe durano tyres? Is it good? I'd there any other recommendations other than this tyre? I'm looking for 20" 451 tyres
My main concern is comfort and performance in stopping.

This post has been edited by PaulKong: Sep 6 2015, 09:58 PM
D3vilsim
post Sep 6 2015, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(azamunekurone @ Sep 6 2015, 07:43 PM)
consider u like to backpacking later, the 24" are quite big rather than 20".20" can slip nicely into buses or others.

besides, tubes are hard to find at village small bike shop compare to town.

thats my 2 cents only laugh.gif
*
thanks mate ! appreciate your charing rclxms.gif

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