I drib selow. Bai

Hi Guys,

I have an old Saga 12v Megavalve. The ODO/Fuel meters are broken.

I was reading here, we can use a VR4 meter and some other analog meters. Is it a perfect fit ?. I am not sure about the wiring though. Are the sockets/wires compatible as well ? Can I use the auto meter for a manual car ?

Also can you advise what meter which is currently cheap, easily available and least troublesome to fix for this car ?.

Thanks

How much the price for steering rack?

Hi guys....
Its my first time posting here.
Just wanna ask something.

Where to find LMST antenna? The slim-thin-black-metal-rod kindda thing on LMSt roof that one.
Mine is broke liao. So wanna look for replacement. You guys know where to get @ you guys know someone selling it?

Please let me know as I need this quite urgently. Cannot hear radio in car right now.

When you say it is broken you mean it is not working, but the thing is still intact, no visible damage?

I am not sure about whether VR4 meters are compatible, maybe sifus here can help. However, some of us have DIY repaired the VDO meter which is notorious for the defects especially the soldering. If you are interested, see:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=64423749

and also the discussions in many places in V27 thread.

According to the price list posted here recently the ori price should be in the extract below attached.



Attached thumbnail(s)

Is it possible to repair it ? The antenna is just a small wire inside the plastic, if the wire is not broken, the screw portion is ok, it can be reattached back with super glue, tape etc (I also broke mine, and I repaired back this way)

Thanks for the reply bro.
Really ah? Can just fix it like that? Coz radio still can turn on and still got receptions but sometimes its got buzzy sounds and the volume constantly ups and downs.
If like that, I'll try and fix it first see how. Thanks so much bro.

And one more guys.
Know where to buy this LMST handbrake knob? I'm in KL area BTW.

Thanks for the link,

The meters are still intact. You are correct, broken as in not working. I have been driving like this for a few yrs already.

ODO needle is non responsive but RPM is good which means the cable is ok. I was hoping to get a replacement for the ODO meter instead of opening it up.
The temp gauge (sorry not fuel), was completely static but i manage to open up a few yrs back and adjust the elements inside. Its only working till 3 1/4 way.

If there is no meters from other cars that can help, maybe ill try to DIY repair and if that fails, buy a new ODO/temp meter. I hope can still get the VDO ODO meter from Proton. Temp gauge I believe can buy from Brothers.

Rgds

The RPM meter actually does not use the mechanical cable, but is connected by wiring to the distributor; I think it uses the firing pulses to read the rpm.

The km/hr speedometer, the trip / mileage odometer are purely driven by the mechanical cable, no wiring involved. There is a possibility of cable fault, or meter fault : does the km count increase as you drive?

I had a problem with the fuel meter, and I found a cracked solder joint which I repaired with soldering iron.

Your temperature gauge indicates between 3rd & 4th bar means engine temperature is ok, not overheating. Does it behave normally i.e. slowly rising from bottom as your engine warms up?

If youwant to replace, here are some estimate prices:
http://www.lelong.com.my/proton-iswara-gen...7-01-Sale-I.htm
http://www.ecsenang.com/goods.php?id=1838
http://www.ecsenang.com/goods.php?id=1866

From the parts list posted:
446 [Meters complete] Instrument Cluster PW516201 = RM712.68
447 [All] Instrument Cluster Glass Housing PW516581 = RM39.69
448 [Gray] Instrument Cluster Surround PW516597 = RM60.62

634 [All] Speedometer PW516578 = RM184.85
686 [All] Tachometer PW516584 = RM191.19


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For the instrument cover, should be this one as I had mine changed before. Still in stock Proton Glenmarie 2 years back. You need to get the meter cluster out by putting hand in fuse area and push the meter cluster and the meter cluster cover. 3 clips in total. Will post pic next time if you need it, need to dig. Estimated price and part number from the list that forumer shared should be below:
404 Instrument Cluster Hood PW594438 38.94

And for the dashboard crack, its common issue for LMST version. I had enquired before and 0 stock for Proton Glenmarie. Few part stockist in my area also 0 stock. Think you better get a glue and get it done. Listed price list is 180 or 280 last time I asked the Glenmarie. (no stock still ask price funny me)

Proton Glenmarie original around RM30-RM40 can't recall. Mine broke during drying from washing my car. Advise to get outside any brand no need so expensive nia.

Want change absorber belakang before April. Planning with budget max 300. Stock spring+ Performax / Monroe Reflex / GAB SA mana recommend?

EDIT: Added ARB I guess absorber changing process is same? Or need unscrew ARB baru masuk abs then masuk ARB?

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Mar 3 2015, 06:00 PM

Thank you Albert.

My car is the old saga, with the metal bumper. The Fuel gauge is to the extreme left and the temp gauge is to the right. Are the sample links above compatible to this car, looks like Iswara's parts.

I believe I also change cables sometime back, no difference. The km count does not move as well as the speed indicator(needle).

regards

After 1 month of hu ha, i finally got my car after the accident...
However, I now have a depressing problem.
My wiper is swiping so slow i feel it takes eternity to complete 1 circle.
The supposed fastest stroke is like the second slowest stroke when it was good.
I changed the wiper motor in Dec 2014 so pretty sure should not be the wiper motor problem. Another thing i suspected is the wiring of the car somehow goes haywire.
This is because my radio also go haywire after the accident. It plays songs from USB well, but when i switch on my radio, it acts like it is constantly auto-restarted
Is there any ways i can DIY check it first before sending to the mechanic?

Anyone has totally redone their car wiring before? Want to ask about the price and the time for doing that.

This post has been edited by chrisstse: Mar 3 2015, 09:35 PM

Sounds like ada short circuit or earth tarak cukup. I repair my iSwaga on an ad-hog basis. Mana rosak, tampal mana.

I had also managed to figure out (as the ''Gemini Sharti'' guy did
in the above link) as to the common small gear to the left of the
odo/trip meter unit being the culprit, and tried taking it out, but
had a tough time as he did.

In the end, I sprayed some silicone oil into the unit, then turned the
big gear to the right to move the digits of the odometer backwards,
and to my surprise, both meters were functioning again.


Both fuel and temp gauges for the Iswara are the moving coil
type. The coils get stuck after some time in the intense heat of
the hot sun. Try gently lifting both needles upwards with your
finger or a testpen a few times and they might start moving again,
as in my case.

The same gauges in the Saga are also like to be moving coils as well.





This post has been edited by Tham: Mar 4 2015, 06:04 PM

Can share where to start looking? My engine bay wiring is so messy i only know everything starts from battery, and then the wire just dunno go where. Try to trace just now, so far got wires from battery to:
1) Thermostart
2) Headlamps
3) Air_cond
4) Wiper (maybe, need to recheck with my mechanic)

The wiring to radio need to start from where?

For radio auto restart issue is most probably the constant 12V leads to the radio has been disconnected, or only connected to ACC position (Those half baked wireman especially for insurance claim). For a radio to work, a constant 12V is needed to provide memory, and ACC to signal the radio to turn on. For now, you'll just need to get the constant 12V lead to working again. The constant 12V lead wire linked to our radio is from the fuse LAMPU BREK, which means that if your brake lamp is dead, your radio does not function, unless you replace the brake light fuse. The constant 12V also has a inline glass fuse, check that too, from experience less probability of it blown.

However if found out fuse for LAMPU BREK is the culprit, replacing the LAMPU BREK fuse won't solve the problem as your current constant 12v lead from your radio is most probably connected to other ACC wire or something. Suggest to check your lampu brek fuse, then get to accessories shop or back to the mechanic to fix it properly.

EDIT: For DIY, check the LAMPU BREK fuse. Take out radio, check inline glass fuse. Then check whether you can get constant 12V on radio connector pins with a multimeter/test light. FYI the 12V constant lead should be connected to green/grey wire.

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Mar 4 2015, 01:38 AM

If you have any friend who is an electronic hobbyist, ask him if he can
build this project for you :


Digital multimeter for your car..


http://www.instructables.com/id/Digital-mu...r-for-your-car/






This post has been edited by Tham: Mar 4 2015, 06:06 PM