Erm.. the picture shows RM129.

Actually - there's a business reason for the change. In the past HSC used to fill with their Honda 5W30 oils until the 0W20 FS oil came in to cater for their hybrids. Apparently there's more profit in the more expensive 0W20 oil, so much so spare part shops are having difficulty ordering this oil which I happen to use as well. There's no harm using this oil in your car but you should be able to have the option to go for 5W30 at the SC if asked. You need to specify it to them. Unless they give the ultimate excuse of "no stock", then you really don't have a choice.

Besides, if it's filled by the SC, anything happens to the car the SC is responsible to fix it since they warranty everything anyway.

Dude, it's like comparing a Evo vs a Subaru. Both have their advantages, both are great, but there are some difference, like price, maintenance costs, reliability, etc. But would you say either is bad? Nope.

So in the case of these oils, whilst I have my reservations about Caltex Magnatec, if you're comparing semi with semi, same viscosity with same viscosity, both are reputable brands, then you can't go wrong either way.

Personally, I hate Magnatec for what it is and supposedly claims. The other thing is with semis, you won't really reap the benefits of the oils compared to fully syns. So the differences might just be so minuscule it's pointless to compare and just go for the cheaper alternative.

Both are pretty decent. If I have to choose I'd go with Syntium.

@Outpace : I think that's normal for an engine that wasn't flushed. Shows the oil is doing its work and as long as you don't feel any performance loss, it should be fine. You want the oil to be clean longer flush the engine a few times until the output is clear, then only fill your own oil.

Also, a lot depends on your environment. Dusty roads, sandy roads, haze, etc all will contribute to dirty oil to some extent.

This post has been edited by izso: Aug 28 2015, 08:08 AM

big balls!

Which Penrite lube you using? They have this kinda weird +10 tech that's unique to them. I'm still researching on how that works. Also, their prices are quite competitive cuz for around RM240 a bottle (thereabouts) they give 5L bottles.

Actually - the 1 arm bandit test does have some merit to it. If the pressure or force used to press down the arm is the same (meaning a weight is used instead of human effort) then the results will show for itself. JTX won't survive this test vs the other brands like Royal Purple and Penrite.

And to be fair to me I did say it was a "simple" test. At that point of time all I could really test was engine heat and constant high revving to simulate track environment. With Pennzoil and some other oils I've actually seen the temperature reach 140 to 150 deg Celsius which is a little too hot for my liking. Rock oil and Penrite plus one other brand Ravenol has ever managed to keep the engine temp below 100 Deg C no matter how hard I revved it and kept revving it. Worth noting I only ever use fully syn oils. JTX would die man.

And yeah, I know both Michael and Daniel. Very animated blokes and are willing to go the distance for their brand (not technically their brand, just the brand they are marketing). They've taken up 2 challenges so far, one was me thrashing the car on track with the oil and comparing it directly with my favorite (Rock Oil) and the other was economy/performance test on my fuel guzzler other car. Economy so far hasn't produced any results but performance wise in terms of the car starts to deteriorate after being stuck in a jam in hot afternoon weather seems to be working. Hard to justify though so I'm thinking of some sort of test for this.

This post has been edited by izso: Sep 8 2015, 07:09 AM

RP has awesome detergents. It'll superclean your engine internals really aggressively. For me I had the same experience, 5k then change. But the longer I used it the longer the OCI was (based on butt feel like you). Eventually I reached 10k km OCI. It's not a bad oil, just aggressive detergent additives.

That's a good video, I've never seen that one before. Ok good info though. As for gauge, I got the 4-in-1 depo gauge and set it up myself. Quite easy. If you buy a reputable brand sandwich and install it properly, it won't leak la. I've used it on my Wira for so long no issues.


Usually I'd just recommend going to any spare parts shop nearest to your house. The more you go there, the better you can build a relationship with them and the more they'll share good stuff and good pricing with you. The shop that I deal with even ajaks me for the sometimes.

This post has been edited by izso: Sep 9 2015, 03:08 PM

Ah damn. I haven't extracted my oil yet. It's not due for another 3000km.

I haven't found a pneumatic tube pump that can extract oil from the top. Any recommendations?

And you're right about the contaminants, so will have to do what the quazcolt said, drop, sample, seal and keep for next round.

Dude, you're a bloody genius! Ok will try that tonight

Check the smoke from your exhaust. Any White smoke? Some minor consumption is expected from old cars. If you have smoke, you're right about the rings. Probably better to do a full top overhaul and get those valve seats checked

I personally think 0W20 for daily driven cars is fine. However using this on track might prove to be a challenge for the cars performance

Do yourself a favour and get reputable brand one la.

1. Tesco is a global brand. All they need to do is buy 100 units each shop globally per shop and they already have enough bulk to press down the price. It's the same for the Mobil 1 that they sometimes sell for ridiculously low prices. They buy from Exxonmobil Europe by bulk and ship globally worldwide. Local Malaysian Mobil 1 is 200+, Tesco Euro Mobil 1 is 140 bucks only. Economies of scale.

2. Shelf life for unopened and sealed oils is very long, 3-5 years easily from manufacturing date. If opened, seal with cling wrap for airtight seal and cap it, it'll last easily a year if not exposed to direct sunlight.

They are genuine la. Just not from Asiapacific sources. And most of the time they are from European ExxonMobil, not Middle-East. The Middle-East produce oil but they don't blend engine oils.


Erm.. I forgot. But if it's in the future it's probably shelf life. If the date stamped is 20/10/2020 - that can't be the manufacturing date mah. Hahaha.. but generally it should be manufactured date. They don't usually put shelf life on the print.

It'll be a long time before you see 0W30 on Tesco shelves. Very rarely you'll see 5W30. It used to be an uncommon viscosity which is why you don't see it often. But these days cars are requiring these thinner oils so you might see them more in future.

This post has been edited by izso: Oct 22 2015, 03:49 PM

Mobil 1 has a 5 year shelf life, some other oils is 3 years like Castrol. Redline and a few other brands claim theirs have no shelf life. But generally just make sure to shake the bottle if it's old to stir up whatever that might have settled at the bottom after a long period of shelfing.

As for yours, I'd rather not buy to keep. Buy it next year closer to the period you're using it.

- nasa
- Bardhal
- [insert other brands here]

Yes it is. It's more well know for their mineral oils though. Elf has been around for a long time

This has been discussed way too many times.

Think logically - if such a big supermarket chain was caught selling fake oils and someone sued the company, let's say Exxonmobil sued the supermarket brand for selling fake Mobil1, you think Te5co would have a chance? Worlds 2nd largest company that is cash rich suing a supermarket chain supposedly distributing 'fake' Mobil1 world wide, the damage to Te5co would be huge both financially and reputation wise.

These large supermarket chains get their oils from their European counterparts. How do I know? I work for Exxonmobil. Local distributors are quite annoyed that Te5co and all can sell the oils so cheap but if you look at the local packaging it's different and apparently so is the additive package in the oil. So it's up to you to choose Euro blend or Asia blend Mobil1 when buying.

Heavy oil? xW40 is one of the most widely used viscosities in the whole world. It's only just recently (in the last 5 to 10 years) that cars started focusing a lot on efficiency and tighter tolerances that's why you start seeing xW30 and xW20 oils as a base requirement for cars. Don't compare with countries that require the low viscosity to run optimally la, I'm talking about in general.

SM and SN isn't that big a deal breaker. Look at what Quazacolt has shared in the thread (I think the first page).

Old oil is a possibility. I don't know the Te5co purchasing cycle but since they ship their oils from Europe, it's minimally at least 6 months to 1 year old once it's in the stores locally.