It's only a matter of time before I become a troll....

If you're just choosing between the four, this is my pick in this specific order :

1. Amsoil Signature
2. Castrol Edge
3. Mobil 1
4. Redline

It's good la. But how good it is , really it depends on preference. My Wira ran quite well on Amsoil but was quite rough with Mobil 1 Gold. My current Nissan runs very rough with Prince but runs great with Penrite. Right now I'm running on Penrite HPR for all my cars.

Can la. Not gonna kill you if you go with 15W40. Your engine is probably leaking somewhere anyway. Better than running zero oil.

My preference would be (Mind you.. personal preference)

1) Shell Helix
2) Elf Evo
3) Repsol

I've used all except the Elite Evo Repsol. I've used the formulate elite or whatever you call it from Repsol, the semi. Wasn't too happy in my Wira. Broke down pretty fast. But just a note, my Wira wasn't stock so the requirements for the car probably was a little more demanding than a stock wira. So perhaps I probably shouldn't have used a semi.

Where did you get your oils from at that price?

Yeah why not? It might perhaps wear out faster but that really depends on environment, usage, etc.

The additive package is different no matter how you look at it comparing the AP and EU blends. What the exact differences are, I wouldn't be able to tell you. But the claim is AP blends with our weather and humidity (etc) in mind, so technically the AP blend is better. But that's not saying the EU blend is useless here. It'll still protect your engine but the question is to what extent? So perhaps the AP blend can last 12k km, the EU one maybe no more than 8k before your engine starts feeling sluggish.

It's hard to say. I'm not a chemist so can't really tell you much and even if I were, I'd be contract bound to secrecy even though I work in Exxon.

Personally this is my sequence when choosing oil

1. Fully Synthetic
2. Correct viscosity
3. Supposed additive package.

In this case if both the pureplus and non pureplus oils are both FS, I'd just go with the 5W30. Whilst in most cars the 10 difference won't be much, in some more sensitive cars like those internally balanced, lightened, tight tolerance cars, better to stick to the recommended viscosity.

Because my current car isn't a heavily modified car nor is it turbo charged and is a japanese almost-bullet-proof engine, I'd go for the fully syn 5W40. But if it were my previous modified Wira with high comp setup, balanced internals etc etc I'd go with the 5W30 mineral and just target to swap it out 5k oci or 6k max.

Let's talk reality here. Whether I pour 5W30 FS Motul or 5W30 FS Pennzoil in for your car, you're not going to feel a difference between the two since yours is probably a daily driver. Between the two you'll probably feel it in your wallet only. Long term (10 years or more) perhaps you might see the difference in terms of wear and tear parts, but it won't be so significant that it warrants RM300 5W30 Esther based oil changes every 8000km.

So just find the right viscosity, if you can afford FS then go for it, otherwise semi is fine and go with shorter OCI vs FS. Personally 8000km for semi and 10-12k km for FS is pretty reasonable for me. But once the car starts to feel sluggish or your FC starts to get affected, it's time to change oils. Take note of the mileage travelled and just stick with that OCI for future oil changes since it's your cars characteristics.

Wallet takes priority la. Unless you're talking about a race car that you own and drive regularly, then that's a different story.

This post has been edited by izso: Nov 5 2015, 05:00 PM

Mineral????????? nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Go for the cheapest reputable FS is better than Mineral. Bardhal is crap though cheap so avoid that. Just go for the cheap and cheerful Pennzoil FS 5W30. It sells for about RM126 or just get the AEON 5W30 Shell RM136. Buy from spare parts shops, they are cheaper than retail most of the time and they don't normally sell fake oils.

Fair point. I've used their semi and fully syn oils in my own car. They seem to last quite long before the 'sluggish' feel from the engine kicks in.

Oh well I've been on FS most of the time for the lifespan of this car, so not gonna start minerals either way.

Brand mixing ok la, not a race car shouldn't be a huge problem.

And if it's leaking that bad, you better get it fixed. Head gasket, valve guides, piston rings, etc. Check and replace.

Ester are group 5 base oils. The method of extracting these group 5 base oils is expensive so the stock itself is expensive to begin with before blending into an engine oil. Then there's the additives, expensive additives and that'll jack up the price even more.

It breaks down fast. But what is true for me may not be true for you. Just keep your senses open for any differences in engine performance.

And you must be damn unlucky, I saw a lot of 5W30 Shell 1L bottles at Aeon and then a lot of Elf semis at Tesco. And did you come across any Pennzoil brand oil at the spare parts shops? Perhaps you have one of those faces that look like you're a waterfish?

I'm currently using the gold Titanium Kendall 5W30 FS. First impressions after running a few hundred KM now is how light it appears to be. A lot of people using Kendall have claimed better mileage and it's somewhat apparent on my car. But then again it's too early to tell and should let the oil run for at least 2000km before really making any judgement.

At RM40 a quart, it's not too expensive too. Cheaper than the ZIC mentioned earlier

True and not true. The engine will still get "dirty" to some extent, good oils will be able to clean that. But depending on your environment there's a chance it'll still get dirty enough to leave deposits or varnish from shearing or late OCI or whatever. So dumping this 'dirty' oil and filling with a good one will probably 'dirty' the new oil faster than normal since draining the old oil is never 100%, there's bound to be 10%-20% of the old oil or deposits left behind. That's the best I can explain based on what I've experienced anyway.

Personally I flush every time I change oils. But I'll admit that's overkill and probably unnecessary but I'm OCD so that's ok with me.

Depends on the flush type you're using. If you're using alcohol based then sure. But have a look at BlueChem. I wrote about it in Zerotohundred sometime ago : http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/fea...stem-clean.html

It's not quite the same thing as those off-the-shelf flushes. Also, as I said - I'm OCD. I usually use 3 bottles of new flush oil, the flush and one final fill oil. Method of flushing :

1. Drain old oil. Fill new flush oil (same viscosity) + flush.
2. Run for 15 minutes and drain.
3. Fill new flush oil again and run for 15 minutes and drain.
4. Change oil filter and fill flush oil again and run for 15 minutes and drain.
5. Fill with choice of oil.

So that 10%-20% doesn't really quite apply to me. Bahahahaha.. but overkill la.. yalah, I know.

I'm still medium when it comes to OCD, I know a guy who uses Royal Purple as his flush oil minus the flush additive. That fella is rich AND ocd.

No not him. He too much already. Flush until the oil comes out clear then only final fill. Someone else uses the RP as flushing oil

Already bought, just use. But keep a lookout for leaks and stuff. I'm assuming your gaskets (head gasket, oil seals etc) have never been changed before? If you've been on semi all this time, you should be relatively safe from leaks. No harm even if you do find leaks though. Better you remediate the issue now rather than finding out later when the leak becomes a waterfall.

I only do that when I change to a different brand of oil so I give the oil a fair chance when I review it. Otherwise it's just drop and fill with the same oil I used before. Same la - Mahalnya!


Butt feel la. Eventually around 10k or so, you might start to feel the car is feeling sluggish or mushy. That's when you need to change.

I'm not a believer of additives. Sort of. If you look after the GB well enough, you shouldn't ever need additives. Motul GB oil will cost you a lotta money, adding a RM90 bottle of additive is supposed to help how exactly?

Incidentally, if you're changing ATF soon, make sure you change the ATF filter. ATF very rarely will change colour since it's a closed system. If it does change colour you have a leak somewhere or is overcooking your GB too often and need a cooler.


using a 40 weight for a car that demands 30 weight will affect your FC to some extent. Stick to 30 weight la. Elf is a reputable brand, just stick with the right viscosity.

Never heard of booster sorry. Cannot comment nor would I use. Is the Elf oil brand that bad that it needs an additive to work optimally? That's kinda sad.