I'm using the Honda (Idemitsu) oil on my Myvi too. Myvi manual says 5W30, but nothing wrong using a thinner oil since it's a daily putter and not a heavy foot drive car. Monitoring for FC improvements.

Sorry - I forgot clarify I'm using the Honda 0W20 fully syn oil on my Myvi.

I've used 0W20 on my Nissan but it wasn't that great cuz I'm a heavy footer. At the top end the engine response was lacking like it it was running on water. I don't know how to explain that in better terms.

Anyway if you're tracking the engine oil temp and pressure, you'll see that thinner oils run hotter when redlined and pressure is surprisingly higher when revved hard. You're better off with slightly thicker oils with good a base and efficient temp additives.

Personal experience on the Sepang track in a non-standard Wira NA :

- Pennzoil highest recorded temperature was 160 deg Celsius. Which is bad. Changed out the oil due to poor engine performance right after that track day.

- Rock oil maintained a constant 120 deg Celsius no matter how much I revved. Lasted another 1k km after that before I had to change the oil out.

- Ravenol highest recorded temperature was 130 deg Celsius too. Lasted 1k km after that track day.

- Lastly Adnoc Image highest recorded temp was 140 deg Celsius.

All using 5W30 weight and all fully syn. So just by looking at my 4 case studies above, the more expensive the oil the better it is for hard revving drivers with hot engines. (I guess)

highly unscientific I know - but instead of throwing around figures and facts at each other why not just share experiences? But the condition to this sharing is that the oil is minimally TUV or API certified. Otherwise the result from the oil may not be consistent.

Feeling is very unpredictable. Do you have meters or gauges to monitor?


Just use whatever you can afford la. Go fully syn though.

Yeah, I actually have to agree with the P2 oil, the Petronas oils are actually quite decently good. Value for money. As for where to do forged 4EFTE.. I have no idea what that even is. Corolla ke?

Usually about 10-15 bucks

Oh.. I don't know too many shops that handle old cars like that. Maybe you can start your own post somewhere and wait for someone with experience to reply you.

- Well, I consider temperature and pressure has some form of significance since they are indirectly related to oil shearing. The stability of the oil has an effect on the cars performance no? But I guess on normal days you'd never reach that level of oil fatigue compared to track days.

- UOA is good but not everyone is going to fork out RM200+ everytime just to analyse their used oils. I for one am too lazy to collect and too broke to send.

- Well, TUV tests are as stringent if not more than API. Whilst API has more followings, TUV is respectable in their own right so to me if an oil is TUV certified I'm perfectly ok that it's not API certified. Either or will work for me.

Haiya.. this has been discussed a thousand times all over the internet. Tesco imports their stock from Tesco HQ in Europe. So it's Euro blend. And because of the sheer volume they buy their prices are pretty attractive. The only real difference between Tesco Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 from Malaysia is the packaging and additive contents. Mobil 1 M'sia packaging has been updated and looks different. Their formulation is suited for Malaysian weather so OCI claims of 10k km is believable. Euro blend is for Euro scenario. Not saying it won't work here in KL, it will but don't expect the same performance. But most people won't be able to tell the difference unless you are Quazacolt and send your used oil for analysis every time.


That doesn't mean anything. Any engine can idle with a thin layer of oil in it. In fact you can use Palm Oil or cooking oil and the engine will idle like that also. Try driving without engine oil and see what happens to it.

There are other brands out there who claim their cars can run brand X oil, drain it and still drive. But they never show the condition of the engine internals after their oil-less run. Then you'll never see the same car in their tests ever again after that.

All bullshit marketing hype.

Redline is a brand. You want to use the right type of transmission fluid. Any brand also ok, just use the right type. So if the Redline Transmission fluid says it's compatible with Toyota Type-IV oil, then yes you can use it.

This post has been edited by izso: Jun 18 2015, 11:22 AM

Whatever semi/fully syn oil you can afford that has an API stamp of approval

Fuuuuuuuh.. 1A.. that's expensive like hell

Group UOA.. I want in

As it's been probably said a few times before, Tesco takes their stock from Europe. Most of their cars there use 5L or more oil so it would make sense for them to sell 5L bottles.

How much is Tesco selling 5W40 FS 5L?

wait wait.. my previous oil was crap. My current one is too new. Earliest I'll join is either after a track day (which will be impossible since my car isn't made for track abuse) or after 4-6 months when my OCI is due.

Is that the Tection series? But 20W50 probably means it's mineral. I can't find any info on this. But looks suspiciously like the Tection Extra series, usually used on trucks and buses.

Good things are meant to be shared. Share the price and source please. I wouldn't mind some cheap API certified oil

How much and where to buy?

I think I found out who Magna is. They are from United Oils who distribute Repsol amongst other brands.

Um... it's an engine oil. Therefore it's for engines?


Curious - why? Malaysian Mobil 1 vs Mobil 1 Europe are different blend in terms of additives to cater for different environmental conditions. Why is this sort of blending bad?

That's pretty cheap. Where'd you get that price if you don't mind sharing?

I never thought about it in the cost down perspective. I happen to be in the O&G industry and as far as the big companies are concerned, I've never seen them cut costs by spec-ing down their oils. Well, that's for Exxon and Shell anyway. I don't know about other companies.


Huh? Import? I can walk into any spare parts shop near my house and walk out with crates of this oil. It's abundant la, nothing special about it and I pity those Myvi owners. That oil if i'm not mistaken costs something like RM65 or 70 only.

Erm.. no. If the oil says 10W50 that means it's 50 viscosity at 100 deg Celsius. It'll never go "down" to 30. Once a 50, always a 50. And that's a cheap mineral 50. It's not a suitable oil for the Myvi regardless! Unless he's turbo charged, then maybe.

The manufacturer uses 5W30, stick with 5W30 la. 0W30 / 5W30 / 10W30 all is fine. I personally wouldn't use Total and personally I think Petronas oils are quite good. Just over priced like Mobil 1.