Quazcolt : I came across an interesting situation with a friends car.

He discovered that the Amsoil oil he's using takes longer to warm up on startup compared to the TRD Motul oil he was on earlier. Any thoughts on why and how'd that affect the car?

Both are 5W40 and both are group III base stock. Or so the manufacturers claim. Amsoil is group III right? Or was it IV. Anyway the TRD Motul range is group III for sure.

This post has been edited by izso: Mar 6 2015, 03:46 PM

I didn't get the Amsoil model so I can't tell you what he's on. Anyway I couldn't find any info on the Motul TRD either.

And I somewhat disagree with the warming up not being an issue. The longer it takes to warm up, the more wear there is although insignificant - wear is wear. And it also means I can't gun the car earlier mahh.. I'd prefer the oil get up to spec as quickly as possible. No?

In the case of my friends car, low temp thermostat doesn't help the cause. And he's paranoid about the knocking he's seeing when cold (FC Commander shows that apparently).

Hmm.. true.

Well then, it still boils down to the knocking my friend was observing when cold. That can't be good for the car regardless of oil technology! The faster it reaches optimum temp, the lesser the knocking. Which is weird. How the hell does one tune a car to run only at a certain temperature range? Or why would it knock when cold?

Oh. Thanks, will pass on the message. I know nuts about tuning.


Quazacolt : His is a Toyota, auto-adjusting tappets (forgot what the actual terminology is for the thingy) and the knocking is observed on the FC Commander. Not audible noise from the engine.

Aiyo... read the first page and determine for yourself what is right and what is not la. It's like asking "Coke is for 20+ year olds only whilst beer is for 30+ year olds". That's not true anymore, even younger folks are drinking hard liquor (questionable btw) and old folks can drink coke. It doesn't matter. The question is which one is better for you? Can you afford it? That's it.

Since you have the time and money good for you lor.

For me I'd rather use good oil to ensure engine longevity and longer OCIs. I don't have time to change oil every month and rather do it every 3-6 months based on the oil OCI.

Why waste time doing oil changes when you can be out there making money/enjoying things.

This post has been edited by izso: Apr 16 2015, 11:11 AM

Let's see. I use Pennzoil fully syn (RM140) and a Nissan oil filter (RM18). I change every max 6 months, but for the benefit of the doubt I'll go with 4 months. You spend RM50 per month on oil and RM10 on a cheap filter. RM60 per month. In 4 months you'd have spent RM240 almost double of what I would have spent.

And I wasn't harping on about cost, I was talking about time spent doing all that.

But like I said - you have the time and money, good for you lor.


M-oil additives? What are you smoking? Whatever it is I want some!

Quazacolt and I don't condone additives and what the hell is "mugs"? Engine cholesterol? "Deal with carbon contents"? "Reduce viscosity of the engine oil"? Do you have any proof or evidence to backup what you're saying?

Unlike your hearsay, Exxonmobil has spent several million dollars (US) on R&D and they guarantee that their oil viscosity will not change unless it has either broken down due to age/shearing or something else was mixed in. Pennzoil, Motul, all have their own R&D on their products and they are market leaders in the oil industry. They do not simply make oils and claim the world from them.

The purpose of the engine oil is to lubricate full stop. The additives in the oils however help to clean varnish (not your furniture varnish, go read it up), reduce engine oil shearing, keep the oil temperature stable when under pressure and many other things.

Some mineral oils are capable of doing all that but I doubt the detergents in the cheap oil is capable of doing any cleaning. Since you change so often it's possible you never gave the varnish any time to develop and carbon deposits to settle. So that's all good for you but I'd challenge you to do a comparison of your engine internals with someone else who does longer OCI with more expensive fully synthetic oils. If it's the same, you'd just be wasting time and money doing so many frequent oil changes assuming you change prior to the 1k recommended OCI for mineral oils.

Whilst you are not wrong to change the way you do and since you decided to share your method and OCI, people will bound to do comparisons and there'll bound to be differences in opinion. It basically boils down to what I originally said to you :



This post has been edited by izso: Apr 17 2015, 09:06 AM

I think I understand why he said what he said. He doesn't know what Motul 300V is. He thinks it's an additive.

For his benefit since he doesn't seem to google much :

https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/oil...cants/range/car

I work for a company that does this sort of R&D for their oils. What's your point? Your claims are baseless since you have nothing to back it. R&D may not always have positive results - true, but when they do have results at least they have proof to back their claims. Unlike you. Nothing but hearsay.

And I did Google that - nothing? And what the hell is m-oil la? No one here is talking about 3rd party additives. I'm talking about all the additives found in normal engine oil formulations. Royal Purple oils have extremely good detergent additives in their oils, Mobil-1 (malaysia blend) has a lot of anti-shearing additives, etc. If you're saying all these formulated additives are useless, why are you using engine oil? Just pour in pure palm oil la. That will lubricate your engine and has zero additives. There are people in M'sia doing this now and even University Malaya is doing their R&D on using palm oil in as a lubricant.

Or are you just plain confused and don't know what you're talking about?

Rich people have a lot of cars? What are you smoking again? I'm not rich and my household has 5 cars. it's not more efficient to service the car in shorter OCI than my regular 10,000km intervals (I do not follow OCI in months). And my cars do not break down due to "bad road conditions". "Bad road conditions" just accelerate the wear on rubber bushes/suspension parts and possibly damage rims and tyres. I don't live in a jungle or desert that has extreme amounts of particles that might contaminate my oil nor do I travel in flood prone areas. The only time my cars break down is if some dumbass crashes into me. So again - your point is invalid.

And again - what the hell is m-oil additives la? Who said anything about using additives?

Before you reply - please research the topic a bit more because everything you say seems to be misinformed or just ignorant. Except for the part where you say it's your choice to service your car every month. That's your prerogative and no one can deny you that pointless activity.

This post has been edited by izso: Apr 20 2015, 09:33 AM

So... now you've got nothing to say and trying to change topic?

Let me see if I understand your logic. So you're saying that someone else who changes their oil with extended OCI will be slower to accelerate?

Sigh. The topic of diesel oils again.

Diesel oils have extremely high amounts of detergents in their formula mainly because diesel engines need it. On a petrol engine that's not a bad thing either. However diesel oils don't have as much of the other additives (if any) such as anti-shearing additives and high temperature resistance capabilities.

If you don't rev much, don't have a overly hot engine, change oils monthly like the other fella here, then you'll probably never have problems with your engine except for the average heavy price on the oil.

But if you are a heavy revver and change oils every 8000km then good luck to you.

Yup davidke20, I didn't condemn or say anything. I just said "good luck"

The question is why would you want to? Because racecar?

Problem with single weight oils is they only work best when heated to optimum temperature. Meaning when cold, the oil will be pretty useless which is why those GT300 or F1 or whatever usually get the oil intravenously fed into the engine after being warmed up separately in a warmer.

No point telling us heavy footer or not. Easier to tell what your budget is. I could recommend Motul or LiquiMoli, but if you can't afford the 200+/300+ price no point la. Then again I could recommend you the cheap and cheerful Pennzoil oil but you'd scold me saying that you're not that poor and want something better.

Feralee dude! You should know better than to give undescriptive posts laaaa.. tell what is so great about it la.

Exactly. After an oil change it'll definitely feel light.

That's cheap. From Tesco I assume? That's Europe blend. Monitor your oil quality and feel and keep the OCI below 8k. It most likely won't be able to last 10k.


And void warranty? Why would you want to risk that? Honda parts aren't cheap

Nope. Malaysian is different, catered for Malaysian weather and humidity. The packaging is different too.

Nah. Tesco and those big malls import their stock from their HQ in Europe. So their blend is Europe blend catering for their weather and humidity etc.

*facepalm*