There's no such thing as high performance oil filter? Ive tried Works Engineering but cant really gauge its performance due to miscommunication.

Got this engine oil unopened at Serdang for someone who need it as the rating is not suitable for my own use.

PM me offer.

I didn't get the Amsoil model so I can't tell you what he's on. Anyway I couldn't find any info on the Motul TRD either.

And I somewhat disagree with the warming up not being an issue. The longer it takes to warm up, the more wear there is although insignificant - wear is wear. And it also means I can't gun the car earlier mahh.. I'd prefer the oil get up to spec as quickly as possible. No?

In the case of my friends car, low temp thermostat doesn't help the cause. And he's paranoid about the knocking he's seeing when cold (FC Commander shows that apparently).

well, considering modern engine oils, you know how some of them clings really hard on the engine compartments and what not right?
like castrol magnatec advertisements lol.

the only time this may not be the case is the car has never started for weeks and the oil completely flows to the oil pan/sump; And even then, beyond the first minute or so all engine compartments should be properly lubricated.

Supposedly, the theory is that as engine parts expand (albeit very minor, especially in modern engine tolerances) due to heat, you would get more friction that's thankfully countered by supposedly higher flow rate of warmed up/heated up oil that's more fluid than it is being cold.
is this what you're getting at?

if so, low viscosity oils and the VII of modern day engine oils easily counteracts the need to "warm up the engine oil".
not to mention, notice how almost all modern day engine requires 0w20 anyways, and SAE is going to make 0w16 official within this/next year.

Hmm.. true.

Well then, it still boils down to the knocking my friend was observing when cold. That can't be good for the car regardless of oil technology! The faster it reaches optimum temp, the lesser the knocking. Which is weird. How the hell does one tune a car to run only at a certain temperature range? Or why would it knock when cold?

then it could be something related to the viscosity of the EO being used, or even mechanical/engine problems.
knocking (assuming pre detonation, how can you pre detonate something when everything is supposedly cold?) on cold is something that's very rare and i would lean more towards engine issues such as ignition timing and what not.

if your knocking is merely noise such as tappet noise, it will still fall down to using the viscosity, or proper valve clearance adjustments (if available).
most modern self adjusting valve clearance like my 4B10, no choice la, noisy as fuck as if i'm on a friggin diesel engine.
warm up or cold also same stupid "tappet" noise lol.

car "tuning" to a certain temperature range is a thing of the past.
most modern car specs/tolerances are so tight there's no room for "heat expansions" so you can't simply have "2 specs" (hot/cold) per say.
one of the example would be my 4g15 vs 4b10, 4g15 have hot/cold specs on many settings such as the carb, valve clearance, etc while 4b10, i think the only thing that mattered is the coolant/oil levels. (yes i know there's the exception if you're doing remapping to accommodate MIVEC timings on cold etc.)

personal advise: find out the EXACT source of the knocking, as well as performing UOA and see if there are increased metal wears assuming there's no visible ones upon oil drain. consider having a "filtration" on your oil drain just so you can catch any visible wear/particles, as UOA metal particles are in the microscopic level.
that's assuming your friend is really paranoid/perfectionist, and willing to spend la

Knock when cold is more a tuning issue and has nothing to do with the engine oil. Engine oil and coolant temp does not reflect the heat in the combustion chamber. The closest you can to measuring combustion is through the exhaust gas. If your friends car knocks when cold, that is more of a tuning issue than oil.

During cold starts the ECU will ignore most of the sensors and rely on a fixed fuel mapping. That is part was most probably tuned wrong. Your question should not be "How the hell does one tune a car to run only at a certain temperature range".. it should be "How did they get cold start tuning wrong."

ah this is definitely a much better reply/perspective at things.

much thanks

Oh. Thanks, will pass on the message. I know nuts about tuning.


Quazacolt : His is a Toyota, auto-adjusting tappets (forgot what the actual terminology is for the thingy) and the knocking is observed on the FC Commander. Not audible noise from the engine.

so really pre-detonation (knocking) la?
i'd go with sifu sleepwalker then

Every morning when I start my car, it gives rattling & shaking noise at the exhaust for about 20 seconds. Whilst the Rpm needle is also shaking a little up & a little down. The exhaust blows air (not visible smoke) like a hiccup for that 20 seconds. After that, the Rpm needle & exhaust sounds turn to normal & stabilize.

Dear all sifus, what is the real problem? Can someone clarify?
(Car is Altis 1zz Fe).

out of this topic:
make sure your cold start tuning/mapping is done properly
make sure no leaks/mechanical damage/failure.

in this topic:
consider using thinner viscosity engine oil that your engine/manufacturer recommends/allows.

can I mix old engine oil (opened but unused) with new one when changing engine oil

within 1-2 year time should be no issue.
do observe if the oil is still flowing normally with no material/solids separated/floating around.

Thank you Quazacolt.

Saw all this fully synthetic engine oil under promotion at Tesco until 18 March 2015. Normal price was RM 219 for all four engine oil. Promo price RM 129. Save RM 90.

Too bad just collect my car earlier this month which under warranty. Can't use engine oil other than the one sell at service center.

This post has been edited by far1470: Mar 16 2015, 01:51 AM

hi all, just saw Tesco Puchong selling semi synthetic oil 4W40 @rm75:

1. Mobile 5L
2. Shell 5L
3. Castrol 4L

offer a few days only.

I bought Mobil Super 2000 X1 semi syn. 5L manufactured Oct 2014.

Can anyone interpret the symbols from the two photos attached?


Attached thumbnail(s)

Look like symbols of multi languages. For example, D is Deutsch.

oh yeah, it has to be.

at photo 2, there's a line ACEA A3/B3; API SL. Is this much inferior to SM and SN?

Currently me using motul h-tech 100 plus 10w40 for testing