QUOTE(matrixation @ Jul 3 2017, 10:04 AM)
So I went to Eumayco, Audrey's, De Beers, Tiff & Co, Tomei, Habib, and then back to Wa Chan - all to see their signature diamonds - so called better than common GIA triple excellent.
Would like to verify my understanding, is it safe to say the super ideal diamonds (Habib's hearts on fire, Tomei's Lumiere, and the likes) are just triple ex diamonds with extremely good proportions? like the crown & pavilion angles, and depts, and cut symmetry is very good to produce optimal fire, brilliance, and scintillation? Assuming what I understand above is correct, this would mean, I can also get similar grade diamonds elsewhere (like wa chan or online) cheaper; albeit unbranded?
FYI to other friends here:
1. de beers claim to go beyond 4C, and have 7C (cannot remember what the other 3Cs stand for, but basically mean fire, brilliance, and scintillation) I was also given a show on how their proprietary IRIS scanner is used to detect diamonds that fits de beers' 7C standard. They also only have internal certification for <0.99 carat diamonds; only 1 and above will have GIA certification
2. tiff & co do not have GIA certification, the sales consultant told me tiff & co certification process is stricter than GIA. didn't get a very good service in tiff & co, it felt more like regular jewelry shopping, than engagement ring/diamond understanding
3. Eumayco's Mr.Eu seem very knowledgeable and was very kind to share alot of information. I am interested in the fact that they do custom ring designs (they also hold classes for these). but their diamond selection seem limited. they are not keen to only do setting, and prefers to sell the diamond + setting as a whole. They will still design the setting for me (in the event I bought my diamond elsewhere), but at a different price point, with no after sales service such as polishing, resizing
4. I didn't spend alot of time in Audrey's, the sales consultant didn't tell me angything new that I didn't already know. Didn't see any real diamonds - he only open the audrey's site and went through some potential diamonds online with me; we also spoke a little on setting design and customisation is possible. They are open for me to bring my own diamond, and they will help with setting design, with full after sales service
5. Wa Chan will also help design settings with my own diamond.
Finally, I have 90% decided on what specs I want:
a) 0.7 carat
b) GIA triple excellent
c) D-F colur
d) SI1 and above clarity
and saw 2 diamonds within this specs, @kambingkoh sifu, what is your opinion on them?


Would like to verify my understanding, is it safe to say the super ideal diamonds (Habib's hearts on fire, Tomei's Lumiere, and the likes) are just triple ex diamonds with extremely good proportions? -> Yes. Also, if you view from the bottom of the diamond, you will see a clear picture of Hearts & Arrows. This indicates the diamond's precision. Remember, the numbers you view on the certificates are the average number resulted from the amount of angles taken into consideration. We have to remember that diamond cutting is a handcraft, the precision of each angles may differ slightly. Hence, the average will be the result showed on the certificate. To better understand things, refer to the website below/image attached below:
https://www.whiteflash.com/about-diamonds/d...lytics-1535.htm
While AGS does not round up the average numbers, GIA does, meaning the average will always be rounded to the nearest "x" degree. So for example, for crown angle, GIA will round up to the nearest 0.5 degree, so for example, 34.3 degree crown angle will be averaged up to 34.5 degree. While for pavilion angle, GIA will round up to the nearest 0.2 degree, so for example , 40.7 degree pavilion angle will be averaged up to 40.8 degree. So, in terms of accuracy, I would say AGS wins. Anyway, GIA is still a world-renowned lab and you will should take both GIA/AGS graded diamonds into consideration. Refer below:
https://diamondcut.gia.edu/06_estimating_a_cut_grade.html
Using the proprietary cut score calculator by Enchanted Diamonds:
https://enchanteddiamonds.com/cut-score-calculatorFor the two diamonds you picked, 2186826647 has a cut score of 94.4, while 3215447623 has a cut score of 97.2. For 2186826647, the crown angle is at 36 degrees, which is considered over-steep. So that is probably where the diamond loses score. For 3215447623, it is cut to slightly deep at 62.6%. Safe rule is to make sure diamond max around 62%. So, that is probably where the diamond loses score.
However, based on the image you provide, which one looks more appealing? Personally, I think is diamond 2186826647. The image is clear. However, not all arrows are similar in size with each other. Also, the "backside" of most arrows are not that balanced. Also, look at the 12 o'clock position, the arrow head is tilted to the left.
For 3215447623, this is strange. The right hand side is obviously darker than the left. I am not sure why but it could indicate that the cut quality is not that good. Maybe a little too deep at that area. So in this case, I would prefer the look of 2186826647 more, despite the numbers on the cert 3215447623 is not as good.
Good thing is, I believe you have seen the diamonds personally, which one looks more appealing to you? Can you request the sales assistant to show you the diamonds under normal fluorescent light? It will be best to see them under normal light because you will know whether the diamond can perform out of the shop.
Lastly, price is another important factor to consider, so it will be best if we can have the price to see whether it is a good buy or not. For example, Hearts on Fire may be a safe buy, but the price is crazy. However, despite the proportions and cut of another diamond is not as good, but the deal is good, sometimes it is worth to consider, if you don't need a super ideal. It all boils down to individual preference.