Ok.

Anyway I already design the electric logic. Just post here.



For pump run,
1) Pressure switch high (PS) --> Pump off. (Ball valve top tank close)
2) Pressure switch low --> Pump on (Ball valve top tank open)
3) Floating Swicth high (FS) --> Pump on (Receiving tank water level high)
4) Floating Switch low --> Pump off (Receiving tank water level low)

Logic,
1) If PS high and FS high --> Pump off
2) If PS low and FS low --> Pump off
3) If PS high and FS low --> Pump off
4) If PS low and FS high --> Pump on

1) Entire system run in auto with 2 switch to detect water pressure and level. All switch at the pump side and receiving tank. No switch or any electrical ontop ceiling tank for easy maintenance and problem solving. Pump run in interval depend on water refill time and margin level set for the floating switch.

2) Indicator light for full, low level and pump error can be wired to indoor if require.

3) Timer (T) is to delay in sec for stabilize switch signal receiving. Timer (T1) is to delay in 10 over sec for flow detect error. (Incase the pump priming). Both can be adjustable timing.

4) Overload relay (TR) is to protect the motor pump incase run dry and hot. It is self reset.

5) Magnetic Contactor (MC) is for pump.

6) Last minute add on the Manual Over Ride Switch. For maintenance and priming of water pump.

The electrical logic are not perfect as it lack on safety prevention. It can be add in and modify.

looks a lot more complicated than what i have right now.

this is what the current system looks like.


the rest of the logic is software.
any modification to the control logic can be done remotely through network.
the system supports OTA update.

parking

If you know how to wiring, the circuit is consider easy and simple.

Sure of course you can put it into logic program with PIC, PLC or arduino. No problem at all. It take away 60% of the wiring. And easy modify the circuit anytime.

I m rusty with such circuit design. But fun to do once a while to recycle back my mind. Complicated wan, I move to PLC or arduino.

For running a pump at 1hp, I will not use the onboard relay to do switching. With the rapid interval switching cycle perday, that short life the relay. I will move it into motor relay or magnetic contactor with thermal relay (TR) as protection.

For outdoor use and box placing, I will not use 240v for contact control. For the micro controller is fine. But dealing with water and outdoor, I will place the switch, button and light into smaller DC volt.

environment monitoring, 3rd (current) iteration.

i've migrated the internet service provider from screamyx 4mbps that i had previously to digi infinite.
upside i could hit >30mbps, averaged at >20mbps consistently.
downside i lose port forwarding and exposed IP.
downside to that, i lose the ability to use dynamic dns and map the house IP to a domain.
and downside to all of that, is that i lose ability to remotely access the any of the internal servers, cctv and mqtt included.

so i can't send mqtt packets from remote monitoring nodes to the house mqtt server and logging server.


re-mapped the (local) mqtt server to bridge some particular topics to a public mqtt server.
so using the public broker to bounce messages back to the home network for logging.

it works. with some servers. some services prolly turned off mqtt bridges.
nvm that. re-acquired the ability to receive and log remote nodes that i have somewhere else through the internet.




also have 2 nodes sensing humidity parameter.
one at the roof area (has contact to outside air) and another one at my lab, 35km away enclosed in a room.

this is how one of the node looks like.
i'm using nodemcu modules based on the esp8266 microcontroller.
because it's cheap and comes with wifi capability. i like them.
not the cheapest tho. that would be the realtek rtl8591. i think. can't remember.

the node above connects to a bmp280, a switch (to remotely trigger the booster pump) and controls the irrigation valve through a darlington transistor array.

anyway the entire system is running on a single DC power supply at 19V output.
19V because i'm using a leftover laptop power brick that i have lying around.

the DC-DC buck converter that i have regulating power to the CCTV and other stuffs accepts max 24VDC.
so the system could work with anything up to 24v.
tried with 12v but too much voltage drop since i run the entire system off a PoE LAN. best is to have 48VDC in the system but 60V buck converters are too expensive for my blood.

sure it's off a breadboard.
but need to test mah. site implementation before i move to PCB.
needs design, test, implementation, correction, implementation, redesign, retest etc. takes a while.









because buying off the shelf items are too mainstream.

Hardcore stuff u got there haha:)
Lucky got lab to test.

Hi Paskal, I would like to build a power monitoring device, may I know where you buy the power measuring meter? Any recommendation in brand? How do you install into DB as I see the measuring device is socket type...

By the way... your project is neat

For energy monitoring can buy off the shelf like this

https://maevi.my

But for power , u mean pq rite? maybe need to survey more.

Thank you for your reply... That is very expensive stuff, a gateway + 1 energy meter cost RM900
Anyway, I found this sonoff china brand, wondering if it is ok?
http://sonoff.itead.cc/en/products/sonoff/sonoff-pow-r2
Anybody use before?

#throwbeg

#throwbeg

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#throwbeg

yeah yeah yeah
all this throwbeg wanna make you throw up.

so let's talk current.


this is current. 200 amp of current.
been contemplating on getting a multiprocess welder for quite some time now.
took me a year. nearly a year.


a multiprocess because i want need something small.
a full blown high freq TIG welder is too slow for the amount of continuous weld that i do. don't think i'm gonna use it much.

so a multiprocess welder that could do MIG and TIG and small would be a nice compliment to the collection.

trying the small welder for a few days i'm surprised at the result.



this is what i'm getting from the larger, workshop grade welder.
it's not as nice to look at. but that is done on a really thin 1.0mm mild steel square tubing.
most people will never even do a continuous weld on thin mild steel. not even workshops, they'd just spot weld the metal to avoid burn through.

that is not interesting. but this is:



this is what i'm getting on the small multiprocess welder.
the metal deposition from the small unit is not as smooth as the larger unit.
inductance control is also relatively worse.
weld pool progress also a bit harder to control on the smaller unit.

but damn, the weld looks nicer.
prolly the weld voltage can be reduced lower than the older unit.
it doesn't weld as nice for thicker metal, but thin material this unit welds better.

now need to build a cart for the unit.

i got it off aliexpress.
the current clamp is also available in ebay, gearbest, banggood, amazon, etc. i've posted the model before.

installed inside db because it's a current clamp, a non-intrusive to the circuit.


the sonoff uses a shunt resistor paired with a hlw8012 monitoring ic. the ic measures the current drop across the resistor.
it's an intrusive design where the line is inserted with that shunt resistor causing a voltage drop to happen across the resistor and measured by the ic.
not perfect if you consider the thermal drift on the resistor and thermal limit of the resistor with high load. but it'll work, suitable for low power devices.

the sonoff can be flashed to some other firmware that supports tweaking to the output messages, don't need to send it to sonoff server.
not well versed with sonoff since i don't use them. don't intend to use them since there's no exposed GPIO on sonoff pcb, which severely limit external sensors that be attached to the sonoff.

unrelated to the whole renovation/civil/building stuffs.
but will be used later on with sensors casing. and stuffs.

never had a 3d printer before.




bought the ender3 model from creality.
raving review on the net.
wanna try it mah, get a hang of it. see if works for my usage.

was contemplating on getting the cr10, but the really high build really need 2 z-axis lead screw.
that would require splurging on cr10s, and too expensive (for me) as a starter printer.

maybe later if i feel 220mmx220mmx250mm not enough.

Congrat. It is another kind of experience.

You can check out here https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2249129

Sorry I must have miss it, I gone through previous post but cannot find the current clamp modal. Can you please let me know the modal? Or if you have the product link is also ok.
Thank you.

Bro, just wondering, will the rm120 psf include bathroom items like sink, shower head, heater, etc?

Btw congrats on ur built!!