nice 1 paskal.. been waiting long enuf.. haha... any update on the project?
keen to know the progress

so i've built an energy monitoring system based on the EmonLib library.
with a little bit of changes here and there to suit my requirement.

tested the long term accuracy for 24/7 operation with a cheap ESP8266 off aliexpress and the ADC loses its precision here and there causing erroneous spikes in the measurement.
also tested the ESP8266 with an external ADC through ADS1015 and ADS1115 and but the measurement lags here and there because of the ESP SDK messes around with the response.

got a good result using an arduino that acts solely as the measurement node and an ESP that is used solely for the data transmission.



calibrated the sensor response to a water kettle with a PF of 1.0

and proceeded to install the prototype inside my DB.



measurement is taken off the neutral line to get a total sum of the entire 3 phases.




data transmitted using MQTT to a central server through wifi.

House completed?

fair enough resolution.
able to detect the fridge compressor being turned on and off with the waterpump spikes, instant boiler and everything else with acceptable accuracy.


also able to detect the house external lighting power requirement.
the house have a 100w energy budget for outdoor lighting that is turned on every night from 8pm-6am (1kW budget for 10 hours, 30 cents everyday, rm9 budget monthly)

well that's not interesting.
this is what's interesting.

this is 3 bedroom airconds being turned on one after the next.

see this?

this is the main bedroom aircond being throttled down within a few minutes of it being turned on.

this is the effect of inverter airconds.
it will save you money so long as you don't set it to freezing temperatures.

this is the aircond being set to 26 degrees, with ceiling fan turned on, in a room facing the evening sun.

Nice work.

What sensors are you using to supply the data to Arduino?

refer to the graph.

this is normal consumption in my house with 3 bedroom airconds running.

once the temperature reaches saturation point, the usage is about A. around 3.3A (759W)
759 watt is fricking low considering there's 3 aircond running that is rated at 900W+ each.

B is when i decide to go out from my study room and go make coffee.
so B is me making coffee.

then you get C which is higher compared to the saturation point at A because the door is opened, compressor has to be run at higher load to reach back saturation temp.


anyway once the set temp is reached. i turned off the AC to check how much it costs to keep the AC at the temp preset.

the current goes down from 3.69A to 3.05A.
meaning one of the AC is only using (3.69-3.05) * 230V = 0.64A * 230V = 147W

~150W of power to keep the room temp at 26 degrees after the set temp is reached.
so no, you don't need 8 hours of run time for an inverter AC to save energy.

provided that your AC is installed correctly, and there is absolutely no air inside the AC system which will cause the AC to run at reduced efficiency.


this vacuum evacuation process is imperative in ensuring the AC gas line is free from air before the system is charged.
but nobody does it.

Current transformer lor.

Maybe my question not detail enough, i am more keen on good grade device, and good accuracy model. Tried few china version the variance between two same device can >10% offset.

Don't have any better quality from the west ?

Somehow, you need to calibrate it and fine tune the prg for each sensor install.

Unless the sensor can be tune.

this is an article on the effects of air trapped inside the refrigerant line.


air particle will insulate the gas lines causing excess pressure making the system less efficient and uses more energy to reach the same cooling power.
https://www.achrnews.com/articles/93443-pur...eration-systems

it requires calibration for each device.

i'm using YHDC SCT-013
the accuracy have been tested and measured so it's well known.
https://learn.openenergymonitor.org/electri...t-sensor-report
https://learn.openenergymonitor.org/electri...t-sensor-report

if you need higher accuracy with simpler interface can consider the fluke voltage output current clamp. it has internal conversion and amplification.
pricey though.

moved in.
now completing the rest of the integration. and stuffs

not fully complete.
it'll take at least 5 more years to complete.

Thanks, i saw this model from the website you share earlier. I don't have oscilloscope to calibrate the accuracy. If its already +-3%, i am good with it.

The future of Tony Stark house

What is the address of your blog?

So after 4 years, what are the myths and what are the real truths that you have learned from the project?

the entire house is mostly using these panasonic ceiling fan.

a 3 blade ceiling fan has the best energy efficiency per air moved. there's a study on this.
but looks too old school and wife don't want. the 5 blade is too pricey.
so bought the 4 blade since wife is okay with it.

but nevermind that.
the well known problem with these remote controlled KDK and panasonic fan is that they generate motor whine (or some kind of whining noise) after a while.
mine starts giving the same problem. most of the unit is affected.

i tot it's the coil whine. some people says it's the coil.
the coil loosen up after a while and must be glued down or tied down. opened the unit during operation and it does sound like coming from the PCB.


so i've glued down the coils and capacitors.

nope. didn't work. still whining.
i've swapped the PCB to a unit that doesn't whine.
doesn't work either. the new PCB instantly generates whining noise right after.

some people are saying to remove the bottom cover, foam tape the covers etc etc.
helps a bit, but doesn't solve the whine.


this solves it.
tie down the wires.
this completely removes the whining noise.

seems like there's no general rule to it.
one unit tied down in the same manner as another silent one still generates noise.
i need to tie down one part. then turn it on. if there's still noise, tie down another part, then turn it on. then repeat until all noise is gone.

and too much clamping seems to be worse compared to less. so less is more.

hope it helps you guys with the same problem.

Nice one, i had this problem with my fans in living room and master bedroom, while i replace a new one in my master bedroom and yet to replace the other. I will try out your method.

The sound feel like the motor is heated up and some bearing noise.

How does the whinning sound like ?

My KDK 4 blades sound like tuk, tuk tuk. Some mechanism touch while spinning. And a start up whinning sound too.

I change the capacitor in the board. All the sound gone. I have post in the ceiling fan side.

Got planning to installed solar panel at roof or nearby ur house

Mine is like a faulty bearing sound. only happen after 15-20mins on.