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 DIY (smart, energy efficient) house building, another house from scratch. DIY style.

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SUSsupersound
post Aug 10 2014, 04:49 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Aug 10 2014, 03:07 PM)
and yet i don't see any of the housing development projects giving any warranty after 1-2 years.
this one is willing to cover 20 years if should there's any crack on the wall.

i see lots of housing over here have crack forming on the wall under a year.
some people say red clay brick have better insulation against heat by sunshine. better cooling effect.

wife says red clay bricks have better heat retention ability, thus frequently used in western countries. they absorb heat during the day, making the house cooler during the day but they excrete the stored heat during the night. thus heating the walls making it warmer. a welcomed trait for western countries where night time is very cold and it would reduce the heating costs.
not exactly an appealing proposition for the weather here.

anyway we're planning for AAC bricks for the west facing walls to improve the insulation. it's only ~60 feet of walls that face the evening sunshine. and the rest of the house probably the normal cement bricks. undecided yet.
*
Main structure and wall are different.
Walls warranty coverage is 18 months while main structure is lifetime.
This is government's requirement.
Also, red brick's quality also are quite poor, it will expand over the time, especially if it expose to water frequently.
evangelion
post Aug 10 2014, 05:56 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Aug 10 2014, 03:07 PM)
i see lots of housing over here have crack forming on the wall under a year.
some people say red clay brick have better insulation against heat by sunshine. better cooling effect.
I think these cracking is due to either workmanship, not enough vent for an extended period of time & external work which vibrates and shifts the alignment even so slightly. As far as workmanship is concerned, it will be best to refer to your friends' houses finishes.
I'm impressed and enjoying your work TS, keep it up.

QUOTE(paskal @ Aug 10 2014, 03:07 PM)
wife says red clay bricks have better heat retention ability, thus frequently used in western countries. they absorb heat during the day, making the house cooler during the day but they excrete the stored heat during the night. thus heating the walls making it warmer. a welcomed trait for western countries where night time is very cold and it would reduce the heating costs.
not exactly an appealing proposition for the weather here.

anyway we're planning for AAC bricks for the west facing walls to improve the insulation. it's only ~60 feet of walls that face the evening sunshine. and the rest of the house probably the normal cement bricks. undecided yet.
*
Personally, i prefer red brick, not sure whether red brick or cement is better.
U might use "double wall" to better vent the house.

Something to contribute, i find this site really useful:
http://www.yourhome.gov.au/passive-design/passive-cooling

SUSsupersound
post Aug 10 2014, 06:17 PM

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QUOTE(evangelion @ Aug 10 2014, 05:56 PM)
I think these cracking is due to either workmanship, not enough vent for an extended period of time & external work which vibrates and shifts the alignment even so slightly. As far as workmanship is concerned, it will be best to refer to your friends' houses finishes.
I'm impressed and enjoying your work TS, keep it up.
Personally, i prefer red brick, not sure whether red brick or cement is better.
U might use "double wall" to better vent the house.

Brick have problem, the sand/cement ratio not right and using poor quality sand.
Building a 22*75 double storey house only need rm90000-100000 max, if the materials are sourced in bulk, it will be cheaper by 20-30%
TSpaskal
post Aug 10 2014, 06:19 PM

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From: Darul Aman
thanks for the pointer guys.
will make more info available once we receive more reply from the contractors.
SUSsupersound
post Aug 10 2014, 08:10 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Aug 10 2014, 06:19 PM)
thanks for the pointer guys.
will make more info available once we receive more reply from the contractors.
*
Wall break the roof won't really collapse, but pillar breaks, you know what I mean.
BTW, I think I never ask you is the land flat and stable land or reclaim land?
ShadowR1
post Aug 11 2014, 02:20 AM

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QUOTE(evangelion @ Aug 10 2014, 05:56 PM)
U might use "double wall" to better vent the house.
*
I agree to this... the west wall.

Noobl3t
post Aug 11 2014, 09:53 AM

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This post has been edited by Noobl3t: Aug 11 2014, 09:54 AM
TSpaskal
post Aug 11 2014, 10:41 AM

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From: Darul Aman
QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 10 2014, 08:10 PM)
Wall break the roof won't really collapse, but pillar breaks, you know what I mean.
BTW, I think I never ask you is the land flat and stable land or reclaim land?
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it's previously a paddy field.
user posted image

QUOTE(ShadowR1 @ Aug 11 2014, 02:20 AM)
I agree to this... the west wall.
*
if AAC is cheaper i might just go with AAC blocks just for the west wall.
if not have to consider double bricking that wall as i did to the HT room.

if even that is too expensive i just consider double bricking the master bedroom wall. but seeing that we have lots of 7'x7' windows, brick cost can't be that much anyway.
ozak
post Aug 11 2014, 11:08 AM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Aug 11 2014, 10:41 AM)
if AAC is cheaper i might just go with AAC blocks just for the west wall.
if not have to consider double bricking that wall as i did to the HT room.

if even that is too expensive i just consider double bricking the master bedroom wall. but seeing that we have lots of 7'x7' windows, brick cost can't be that much anyway.
*
AAC not really expensive. Since it bigger size. I block of AAC equal to few pcs normal brick. I did plan to use AAC for the sun hitting wall side when do reno. It come in few thick dimension. Get the slighty thicker type.

But recently someone wrote here that AAC have some quality issue when it age. It become porous. Try search the infor here.

Beside better insulate, AAC also good for fire retention. It stand better in heat when fire happen. Won't collapse the wall compare normal brick. And you can use it as bearing load wall.

1 thing I not so sure is how good it can hang a load if drill and wall plug in.
SUSsupersound
post Aug 11 2014, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Aug 11 2014, 10:41 AM)
it's previously a paddy field.
user posted image
if AAC is cheaper i might just go with AAC blocks just for the west wall.
if not have to consider double bricking that wall as i did to the HT room.

if even that is too expensive i just consider double bricking the master bedroom wall. but seeing that we have lots of 7'x7' windows, brick cost can't be that much anyway.
*
Solid or not? That's more important.
CoffeeDude
post Aug 12 2014, 04:31 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Apr 29 2014, 08:19 AM)
if you engage an architect, insist that they do a site survey or site study.
it's the only way to check for sun movement and wind direction in the area. simple info that will make your house cooler and properly ventilated.

avoid orientating the largest wall in the house against sunshine as it will heat up the area inside. avoid arranging bedrooms directly facing the evening sun as it'll make your room hot at night.
and change the direction of your window opening to guide wind into your house, rather than deflecting them away.

user posted image
user posted image
can't find the complete 3D design since there's so many interation and revisions to the plan. it's in here, somewhere.
but the cheapest i got quoted for this plan is RM260k.
basic house, basic equipment, good build quality (from contractor past build history).

specs agreed for RM260k:
12 feet wall
metal deck (because roof pitch is only 5 degrees x 40 feet)
insulated roof
folding door, folding window
full plaster ceiling, 10 feet high
normal downlight, cfl bulb
normal ceiling fan with regulator
16" tile, entire house
full height tile in bathroom
normal paint, indoor and outdoor
normal bathroom finishing
no outdoor tile
no glass railing as in pic

IIRC 4 bathroom, 5 bedroom, 1 ht room, wet & dry kitchen, separated guest living room & dining area, family area, 2nd floor family area, 2 decks.
~3000 sqft interior floorspace.
translates to ~RM86-something psft

edit: (refer post below for accurate floorspace)
*
whoa I'm tracking this topic biggrin.gif

My target is to build a 3000sq ft single storey house in 5-10 years time biggrin.gif

Did you hire architect?
Do you need specialized contractor to do the HT room?
TSpaskal
post Aug 14 2014, 09:23 PM

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predicting that there's gonna be quite a problem with the room size.
room mode distribution is nice, distributed evenly throughout the spectrum. giving me this:
user posted image

but room simulation shows that the interaction between the walls and the planned listening position ~6 feet from the back, there's gonna be a null at 100hz in all listening position. and another null at 145hz. probably because of interaction from the back wall.
user posted image
should be able to take care of these by minidsp and arc, but the null directly at 100hz is worrying.
these nulls happen even though i had good distribution of the room modes. really perfect for the length. don't think you could get much better than that first graph.

anyway simulation shows that 14' 9" is gonna be better in all listening position:
user posted image

14' won't do much:
user posted image

increasing the ceiling to 9.5' is even worse:
user posted image

10' is the worst. not planning for a ceiling higher than 10' for the ht room, otherwise i'm gonna need more subs to pressurize it.
user posted image

have to consider increasing the ht room by another 9 inch. 14.5' looks better than the planned 13' 9":
user posted image

but that will reduce the porch length to 17 feet.
3 feet overhang from the roof, i should still get ~20 feet cover at the porch. hopefully my wife agrees haha. tongue.gif
SUSsupersound
post Aug 14 2014, 09:30 PM

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Tapped horn should able to solve your problems.
TSpaskal
post Aug 14 2014, 09:50 PM

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confirmed interaction with the rear wall. changing the crossover frequency also didn't do shit:
100hz xover
user posted image
90hz xover
user posted image

meanwhile changing xover freq for 14.5' did wonders:
user posted image
user posted image

also did wonders to 14' 9":
user posted image
user posted image

pretty much confirmed my fears. the planned size is gonna pose a problem with that huge null at 100hz. it doesn't happen at the middle of the room, but interaction with the rear wall at the listening position causes that huge null that's gonna be hard to correct with EQ.

not gonna risk it. ht room will be widen by 9 inch to 14' 6".
room mode distribution isn't as nice as 13.8', but the freq response at the LP is the absolute priority.

turns out you can't just design a room based on the mode distribution huh.
TSpaskal
post Aug 14 2014, 10:32 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 11 2014, 11:14 AM)
Solid or not? That's more important.
*
solid.

QUOTE(CoffeeDude @ Aug 12 2014, 04:31 PM)
whoa I'm tracking this topic biggrin.gif

My target is to build a 3000sq ft single storey house in 5-10 years time biggrin.gif

Did you hire architect?
Do you need specialized contractor to do the HT room?
*
nope. we suka suka draw draw and give it to the contractor for estimation.
nope. not gonna hire a dedicated contractor for the ht room. it's diy, remember? biggrin.gif

QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 14 2014, 09:30 PM)
Tapped horn should able to solve your problems.
*
care to explain why a horn setup will solve this null?
CoffeeDude
post Aug 14 2014, 11:24 PM

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Wow you did all the drawings yourself? shocking.gif

But for contractors don't they need the drawings for the internal wirings, water piping, air-con piping?

How about security - CCTV, alarm?
SUSsupersound
post Aug 15 2014, 01:23 AM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Aug 14 2014, 10:32 PM)
solid.
care to explain why a horn setup will solve this null?
*
Tapped horn are used to make a small woofer sound big. Like a 10" can sound like 15" with this concept.
Simulation won't be accurate most of the time.
Have to know that, music are dynamic, so I won't trust simulation most of the time, trust your ears.
TSpaskal
post Aug 15 2014, 10:34 AM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 15 2014, 01:23 AM)
Tapped horn are used to make a small woofer sound big. Like a 10" can sound like 15" with this concept.
Simulation won't be accurate most of the time.
Have to know that, music are dynamic, so I won't trust simulation most of the time, trust your ears.
*
a tapped horn will be even worse in this room. tapped horn have a fundamental null at 100hz-150hz. it's not suggested for rooms where freq above 100hz are required from the sub.

simulation is pretty accurate when it comes to soundwave. even tapped horn design process are heavily dependent on the hornresp predicted responses.
user posted image
see that null? it's not gonna improve the room null that's already there.

room response could be accurately predicted. refer the paper "Subwoofers: Optimum Number and Locations" by Todd Welti, Research Acoustician, Harman International Industries, Inc.
my own testing shows the room simulation could predict actual responses to a high degree of precision. findings are posted before in the audiophiles subforum.

can't trust my own ears as the room have yet to be built. so it's all simulation to avoid building a problematic room.
halcyon27
post Aug 15 2014, 11:11 AM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Aug 10 2014, 03:07 PM)
some people say red clay brick have better insulation against heat by sunshine. better cooling effect.

wife says red clay bricks have better heat retention ability, thus frequently used in western countries. they absorb heat during the day, making the house cooler during the day but they excrete the stored heat during the night. thus heating the walls making it warmer. a welcomed trait for western countries where night time is very cold and it would reduce the heating costs.
not exactly an appealing proposition for the weather here.

anyway we're planning for AAC bricks for the west facing walls to improve the insulation. it's only ~60 feet of walls that face the evening sunshine. and the rest of the house probably the normal cement bricks. undecided yet.
*
Yes, we've been using the wrong material in this land all this while. AAC is the way to go provided its obtained from the right source.
SUSsupersound
post Aug 15 2014, 12:06 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Aug 15 2014, 10:34 AM)
a tapped horn will be even worse in this room. tapped horn have a fundamental null at 100hz-150hz. it's not suggested for rooms where freq above 100hz are required from the sub.

simulation is pretty accurate when it comes to soundwave. even tapped horn design process are heavily dependent on the hornresp predicted responses.
user posted image
see that null? it's not gonna improve the room null that's already there.

room response could be accurately predicted. refer the paper "Subwoofers: Optimum Number and Locations" by Todd Welti, Research Acoustician, Harman International Industries, Inc.
my own testing shows the room simulation could predict actual responses to a high degree of precision. findings are posted before in the audiophiles subforum.

can't trust my own ears as the room have yet to be built. so it's all simulation to avoid building a problematic room.
*
If in this world all speakers having the same spec, sound same, all human ear are same then I'll agree with you on this.
Sound wave are travelling in wave form, so the placement of the microphone plays an important role. Not to mention is that microphone calibrated or not hmm.gif

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