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 Lightning protection, Lightning proctection in house

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TSashly
post Apr 18 2014, 12:14 PM, updated 12y ago

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Hi,

May I know anyone using any lightning protection in the house?
Is it good to have or nice to have?

Please advise.

Thank you.
ObeLIsK
post Apr 18 2014, 12:19 PM

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Depends whether you have any High-Tech or sensitive equipments that requires protection.

It'd be good to have for those that are constantly powered on 24/7.

TSashly
post Apr 18 2014, 12:34 PM

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QUOTE(ObeLIsK @ Apr 18 2014, 12:19 PM)
Depends whether you have any High-Tech or sensitive equipments that requires protection.

It'd be good to have for those that are constantly powered on 24/7.
*
I have TV, Astro, fridge, hood, air-cons, PCs and etc. Should I invest on this? hmm.gif
weikee
post Apr 18 2014, 12:39 PM

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I use cal-lab for equipments level protection. If you need entire house is a different setup.
TSashly
post Apr 18 2014, 02:04 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Apr 18 2014, 12:39 PM)
I use cal-lab for equipments level protection. If you need entire house is a different setup.
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Hi,

Is it 1 cal-lab for 1 equipment? Or 1 cal-lab can used for multiple equipments?


Thank you.
SUSsupersound
post Apr 18 2014, 02:07 PM

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Be a cheapskate, use lower rating ELCB.
Spend more on your ground, original grounding point provided by developer are not deep enough.
munchini
post Apr 18 2014, 02:10 PM

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QUOTE(ashly @ Apr 18 2014, 12:14 PM)
Hi,

May I know anyone using any lightning protection in the house?
Is it good to have or nice to have?

Please advise.

Thank you.
*
it's good to have. btw, your house always strike by lightning?
liawei
post Apr 18 2014, 02:16 PM

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QUOTE(ashly @ Apr 18 2014, 12:14 PM)
Hi,

May I know anyone using any lightning protection in the house?
Is it good to have or nice to have?

Please advise.

Thank you.
*
It is up to individual. Installing lightning surge protection is just like buying insurance. It is there to help you when you need it. If you have none, it is always too late when disaster happened.

In short, there are 2 general protection categories:
1) Outdoor protection- lightning rod, to protect the building structure from direct lightning strike
2) Indoor protection- SPD (Surge Protection Device), installed inside the Electrical DB (Distribution Board), to protect all electrical appliances

Frankly speaking, perhaps this is also Malaysians' mentality, 90% of my customers install the lightning surge protection only after the lightning strike disaster occurred. The damages are far more expensive than the cost of installing an indoor surge protection device. "I should have installed it earlier...." is what I heard most of the time. It is always too late for them to know that starting from RM500 to have the whole house protected by industrial grade professional lightning surge protection device. I'm not talking about those plug-n-play type of power extension with built-in surge protection function.

Check out my company website to understand the differences between those power extension and the professional protection.
www.LightningSurgeProtectionMalaysia.com




ObeLIsK
post Apr 18 2014, 02:18 PM

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QUOTE(ashly @ Apr 18 2014, 02:04 PM)
Hi,

Is it 1 cal-lab for 1 equipment? Or 1 cal-lab can used for multiple equipments?
Thank you.
*
Can be used for multiple, depending on how your equipment are layed.

I'd look into protecting TV, Astro and PC...hood not too sure sweat.gif

You can check it out there --> Cal-lab
weikee
post Apr 18 2014, 02:19 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 18 2014, 02:07 PM)
Be a cheapskate, use lower rating ELCB.
Spend more on your ground, original grounding point provided by developer are not deep enough.
*
ELCB won't prevent lightning. Only 2 days ago my colleague house had lightning attack and fry off his router, unify modem, cordless phone and autogate board. It happen when the lightning struck on the electric pole, and travel through the live / neutral wires, that fry all the above items i mention. Modem TM will replace foc, cordless phone and router all have to buy. Even with good grounding & roof lightning pole, lighting can come from other path.

The electric pole wires also have to be change after the strike.

This post has been edited by weikee: Apr 18 2014, 02:20 PM
weikee
post Apr 18 2014, 02:19 PM

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QUOTE(ashly @ Apr 18 2014, 02:04 PM)
Hi,

Is it 1 cal-lab for 1 equipment? Or 1 cal-lab can used for multiple equipments?
Thank you.
*
You can join it to extension. Don't overload.
SUSsupersound
post Apr 18 2014, 02:23 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Apr 18 2014, 02:19 PM)
ELCB won't prevent lightning. Only 2 days ago my colleague house had lightning attack and fry off his router, unify modem, cordless phone and autogate board. It happen when the lightning struck on the electric pole, and travel through the live / neutral wires, that fry all the above items i mention. Modem TM will replace foc, cordless phone and router all have to buy. Even with good grounding & roof lightning pole, lighting can come from other path.

The electric pole wires also have to be change after the strike.
*
Guess you make it wrong already.
For your friend case, it is coming through the phone line. Happen to me twice. I'm using lower rating ELCB.
PJusa
post Apr 18 2014, 02:23 PM

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whole house protection is a worthy investment. got that installed, a phone line surge protection and fine protection from belkin in front of the pc & office & tv equipment. has saved me serveral times before already (when my neighbours stuff was spoiled...) - i stay in a high risk area (elevated).
mrgoodgood
post Apr 18 2014, 02:30 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 18 2014, 02:23 PM)
Guess you make it wrong already.
For your friend case, it is coming through the phone line. Happen to me twice. I'm using lower rating ELCB.
*
No. Unifi signal comes through fibre optic cable, which is not susceptible to lightning.
exkaizen
post Apr 18 2014, 03:16 PM

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QUOTE(liawei @ Apr 18 2014, 02:16 PM)
It is up to individual. Installing lightning surge protection is just like buying insurance. It is there to help you when you need it. If you have none, it is always too late when disaster happened.

In short, there are 2 general protection categories:
1) Outdoor protection- lightning rod, to protect the building structure from direct lightning strike
2) Indoor protection- SPD (Surge Protection Device), installed inside the Electrical DB (Distribution Board), to protect all electrical appliances

Frankly speaking, perhaps this is also Malaysians' mentality, 90% of my customers install the lightning surge protection only after the lightning strike disaster occurred. The damages are far more expensive than the cost of installing an indoor surge protection device. "I should have installed it earlier...." is what I heard most of the time. It is always too late for them to know that starting from RM500 to have the whole house protected by industrial grade professional lightning surge protection device. I'm not talking about those plug-n-play type of power extension with built-in surge protection function.

Check out my company website to understand the differences between those power extension and the professional protection.
www.LightningSurgeProtectionMalaysia.com
*
interested on this... how much is the cost with installation for double story house with astro & streamyx? I have those belkin & cal-lab but if it can stop from surge at earlier stage much better and cost to buy belkin & cal-lab is not cheap as well if you need to buy more than one or two

This post has been edited by exkaizen: Apr 18 2014, 03:17 PM
weikee
post Apr 18 2014, 03:22 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 18 2014, 02:23 PM)
Guess you make it wrong already.
For your friend case, it is coming through the phone line. Happen to me twice. I'm using lower rating ELCB.
*
Unifi is fiber friend. And TNB came replace the burned wires on the TNB poles.
weikee
post Apr 18 2014, 03:24 PM

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QUOTE(exkaizen @ Apr 18 2014, 03:16 PM)
interested on this... how much is the cost with installation for double story house with astro & streamyx? I have those belkin & cal-lab but if it can stop from surge at earlier stage much better and cost to buy belkin & cal-lab is not cheap as well if you need to buy more than one or two
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I got 4 cal-labs.
TSashly
post Apr 18 2014, 03:26 PM

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QUOTE(munchini @ Apr 18 2014, 02:10 PM)
it's good to have. btw, your house always strike by lightning?
*
I don't wish my house always strike by lightning sweat.gif
But it happened to me in my current house, my modem, CPU and monitor gone... cry.gif

So I am thinking to add this protection in my new house icon_rolleyes.gif
Just want to know more for this as I seldom heard people putting this at their house hmm.gif
exkaizen
post Apr 18 2014, 03:27 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Apr 18 2014, 03:24 PM)
I got 4 cal-labs.
*
huiyoo.... yeah I got one... but if installing cal-lab much cheaper than those at db... then have to get more cal-lab... biggrin.gif
ObeLIsK
post Apr 18 2014, 03:58 PM

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QUOTE(exkaizen @ Apr 18 2014, 03:27 PM)
huiyoo.... yeah I got one... but if installing cal-lab much cheaper than those at db... then have to get more cal-lab... biggrin.gif
*
I think he mentioned somewhere it's RM500 onwards for those at db...

QUOTE(weikee @ Apr 18 2014, 03:22 PM)
I got 4 cal-labs.
*
I'm using 5 thumbup.gif
weikee
post Apr 18 2014, 03:59 PM

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QUOTE(exkaizen @ Apr 18 2014, 03:27 PM)
huiyoo.... yeah I got one... but if installing cal-lab much cheaper than those at db... then have to get more cal-lab... biggrin.gif
*
To me is not about cost. So far Cal-lab proven and safe me few round of hassle. Use belkin before, it fry the belkin and also my equipment. I like protect the equipment in modular and need to be i just change the specific area.
weikee
post Apr 18 2014, 03:59 PM

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QUOTE(ObeLIsK @ Apr 18 2014, 03:58 PM)
I think he mentioned somewhere it's RM500 onwards for those at db...
I'm using 5  thumbup.gif
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Ahh, you beat me...
SUSsupersound
post Apr 18 2014, 04:41 PM

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QUOTE(mrgoodgood @ Apr 18 2014, 02:30 PM)
No. Unifi signal comes through fibre optic cable, which is not susceptible  to lightning.
*
Is it? So signal transfer using optical don't have current hmm.gif

QUOTE(weikee @ Apr 18 2014, 03:22 PM)
Unifi is fiber friend. And TNB came replace the burned wires on the TNB poles.
*
Fiber optic or copper, it is just used to transfer data. And you need current to transfer data. You no need to have much, just extra 10-20A surge are more than enough to fry your appliance.
And if that extra surge of current are really going through electric pole, the damage done won't be just unifi equipment only. You will need to change 50% of the house appliances.

QUOTE(ashly @ Apr 18 2014, 03:26 PM)
I don't wish my house always strike by lightning sweat.gif
But it happened to me in my current house, my modem, CPU and monitor gone...  cry.gif

So I am thinking to add this protection in my new house  icon_rolleyes.gif
Just want to know more for this as I seldom heard people putting this at their house  hmm.gif
*
Use wireless modem and don't use network cable.
Now Streamyx TM improve the system already, their junction box now comes with auto reset ELCB(think unifi don't have yet), whenever there's thunder storm in my area, I sure can't go online. And once over, I can use it back.
liawei
post Apr 18 2014, 04:54 PM

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QUOTE(exkaizen @ Apr 18 2014, 03:16 PM)
interested on this... how much is the cost with installation for double story house with astro & streamyx? I have those belkin & cal-lab but if it can stop from surge at earlier stage much better and cost to buy belkin & cal-lab is not cheap as well if you need to buy more than one or two
*
Exactly. Blocking the surge current at the 1st entry point is definitely more effective.

Imagine this:

Belkxx or others:
1) protects only 1 power socket, how about those direct connections (not using socket) such as air-conditioner, water heater, CCTV, alarm panel, autogate? You can't protect them.
2) to protect more sockets, you need to buy more. Accumulated cost is even higher than whole house lightning surge protection.
3) surge current travelling from power DB --> MCB --> ELCB --> CB --> travel around the house --> meets the Belkxx --> Belkxx divert surge current via earth wire --> earth wire surge current travels back to socket --> DB --> Earth wire --> Earth pit...........Can you imagine: the thieves already broke into your house then only you chase them out?

Professional Surge Protection Device (SPD):
1) Protects everything uses electricity, be it plug/socket or direct connection
2) Imagine this: Block the thieves from entering your house

You know which method make more sense.

Srtarting from RM500 including professional installation with 16mm2 cable, and soil resistence test, electrical safety test by trained professionals to ensure your whole house is protected.

Please leave your details at Professional Lightning Surge Protection, we will come back to you with practical and affordable lightning surge protection solution.

This post has been edited by liawei: Apr 18 2014, 05:02 PM
mrgoodgood
post Apr 18 2014, 04:59 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 18 2014, 04:41 PM)
Is it? So signal transfer using optical don't have current hmm.gif
Fiber optic or copper, it is just used to transfer data. And you need current to transfer data. You no need to have much, just extra 10-20A surge are more than enough to fry your appliance.
And if that extra surge of current are really going through electric pole, the damage done won't be just unifi equipment only. You will need to change 50% of the house appliances.
Use wireless modem and don't use network cable.
Now Streamyx TM improve the system already, their junction box now comes with auto reset ELCB(think unifi don't have yet), whenever there's thunder storm in my area, I sure can't go online. And once over, I can use it back.
*
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/question402.htm

Fibre optic uses light, not current, to transfer data.
liawei
post Apr 18 2014, 05:37 PM

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There are some misconceptions here. Let me explain:

1) ELCB is designed to cut off power in the event of current leakage, not surge current. It is not designed to arrest/divert surge current. Perhaps you had the ELCB tripped during lightning strike and you were just plain lucky that the surge current was not strong. In developed countries, it is mandated to have ELCB and SPD (surge protection device) installed in order to get CF for new houses. But in Asia countries, only ELCB made compulsory but SPD is not mandated.

Forget about the rocket science explanation, just remember in short:
ELCB : To protect human
SPD: To protect electrical items
Outdoor lightning rod: To protect building structure

2) Unifi (fiber optic) is immune to lightning surge

3) Streamyx (copper) is very prone to lightning surge damage. Surge current travel through the telephone copper wire and damage your modem, and further downstream. RJ11 surge protection is a must.

4) All surge protection devices rely heavily on the condition of earth connection. The best lightning surge protection is useless if the earth grounding is bad.

5) Don't be surprised, 20% of the houses I visited have electrical safety problems. Some example of the problems:
- earth resistance very high.
- missing earth continuity from socket to DB
- wrong polarity in the socket
- wrong selection of CB, ELCB
- many more.......

People simply take safety for granted.

This is Bolehland, endless possibilities.
SUSsupersound
post Apr 18 2014, 05:43 PM

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QUOTE(mrgoodgood @ Apr 18 2014, 04:59 PM)
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/question402.htm

Fibre optic uses light, not current, to transfer data.
*
Still, it need to do conversion, right?
mrgoodgood
post Apr 18 2014, 05:51 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 18 2014, 05:43 PM)
Still, it need to do conversion, right?
*
Yes, and the electrical current doesn't appear from nowhere. It comes from, guess what, the electrical poles.

You should really eat the humble pie and accept a new knowledge/concept here.
liawei
post Apr 18 2014, 05:57 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 18 2014, 05:43 PM)
Still, it need to do conversion, right?
*
Since the fiber optic doesn't carry any currents from the port (the TM green box) outside your house to your fiber termination unit inside your house, you are safe. Any decoding/conversion done within your house is safe.
SUSsupersound
post Apr 18 2014, 08:14 PM

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QUOTE(liawei @ Apr 18 2014, 05:57 PM)
Since the fiber optic doesn't carry any currents from the port (the TM green box) outside your house to your fiber termination unit inside your house, you are safe. Any decoding/conversion done within your house is safe.
*
But why just the phone related stuffs only fried?
This is something we really look in to it.
As said, if it is from the main electric cable, the damage will be more, but if the damage like isolated like this, I highly doubt it.
If we don't make it clear then same sheet will happen again.
Till today, I fried 4 motherboards, 4 display cards, 4 power supply, 3 modems and 1 cordless phone. All of them are covered under warranty, so FOC, MBs only the network port fried which affecting display card and power supply.
An electrician when have a first glance check already can tell from where the frying job starts.
weikee
post Apr 18 2014, 08:22 PM

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Auto gate board also fried. Fridge usually won't fry easy because less electronic board. Best of all he using belkin protect the network equipments... It proof again the reliable of belkin.

Fiber will not transmit current or voltage because is only transmit light.

QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 18 2014, 08:14 PM)
But why just the phone related stuffs only fried?
This is something we really look in to it.
As said, if it is from the main electric cable, the damage will be more, but if the damage like isolated like this, I highly doubt it.
If we don't make it clear then same sheet will happen again.
Till today, I fried 4 motherboards, 4 display cards, 4 power supply, 3 modems and 1 cordless phone. All of them are covered under warranty, so FOC, MBs only the network port fried which affecting display card and power supply.
An electrician when have a first glance check already can tell from where the frying job starts.
*
SUSsupersound
post Apr 18 2014, 08:31 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Apr 18 2014, 08:22 PM)
Auto gate board also fried. Fridge usually won't fry easy because less electronic board. Best of all he using belkin protect the network equipments... It proof again the reliable of belkin.

Fiber will not transmit current or voltage because is only transmit light.
*
Yup, fiber optic does not transmit current during digital stage.
But it will be interesting to know the actual cause on this.
Autogate board need to check the operating voltage, if low voltage type, sure it will blow fast.
And if the lightning really strike the pole, the TNB digital meter will be first to go. Happen to my house once which ended up I got 75% of discount for my bill.
weikee
post Apr 18 2014, 08:51 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 18 2014, 08:31 PM)
Yup, fiber optic does not transmit current during digital stage.
But it will be interesting to know the actual cause on this.
Autogate board need to check the operating voltage, if low voltage type, sure it will blow fast.
And if the lightning really strike the pole, the TNB digital meter will be first to go. Happen to my house once which ended up I got 75% of discount for my bill.
*
If using non electronic meter it will survive lightning strike.
SUSsupersound
post Apr 18 2014, 09:05 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Apr 18 2014, 08:51 PM)
If using non electronic meter it will survive lightning strike.
*
Yup, but TNB now are slowly phasing out analog meters.
Even the reading blown, once reset the main fuse, I still have power thumbup.gif
soR
post Apr 18 2014, 09:26 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Apr 18 2014, 03:24 PM)
I got 4 cal-labs.
*
how is the setup of this cal lab?
weikee
post Apr 19 2014, 08:04 AM

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QUOTE(soR @ Apr 18 2014, 09:26 PM)
how is the setup of this cal lab?
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No need to setup, just plug between the wall socket and your equipment. If need more points, just put the extension between the wall socket and the extension.
soR
post May 3 2014, 01:13 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Apr 19 2014, 08:04 AM)
No need to setup, just plug between the wall socket and your equipment. If need more points, just put the extension between the wall socket and the extension.
*
socket - calLab - equiment?
is it like an extension?
weikee
post May 3 2014, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(soR @ May 3 2014, 01:13 PM)
socket - calLab - equiment?
is it like an extension?
*
Yes, make sure tour house / socket earth is working.
exkaizen
post May 12 2014, 08:29 PM

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Got my house installled with SPD.. hopefully it wilk protect all equipment in my house.
megahertz
post May 12 2014, 08:38 PM

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any1 know how much need to spend if i want SPD installed in my house?
exkaizen
post May 12 2014, 10:08 PM

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QUOTE(megahertz @ May 12 2014, 08:38 PM)
any1 know how much need to spend if i want SPD installed in my house?
*
you can try to get quotation from here...
http://www.lightningsurgeprotectionmalaysia.com/
silent_killer
post May 28 2014, 03:53 AM

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QUOTE(megahertz @ May 12 2014, 08:38 PM)
any1 know how much need to spend if i want SPD installed in my house?
*
i would recommend http://tokai.com.my/solutions/esp.html they r the first company in Malaysia that started lightning & earthing industry. Developers nowadays want to maximise profit and save cost, so lightning protection installed by developers is very minimum.
ozak
post May 28 2014, 09:21 AM

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QUOTE(silent_killer @ May 28 2014, 03:53 AM)
i would recommend http://tokai.com.my/solutions/esp.html they r the first company in Malaysia that started lightning & earthing industry. Developers nowadays want to maximise profit and save cost, so lightning protection installed by developers is very minimum.
*
I don't see any developer in here that have install surge protector for your house. Even minimum level. Or an expensive bangle.
petlu28
post May 28 2014, 09:41 AM

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Do you think this product will help? I heard any products also can't help when heavy lightning comes.

QUOTE(ozak @ May 28 2014, 09:21 AM)
I don't see any developer in here that have install surge protector for your house. Even minimum level. Or an expensive bangle.
*
ozak
post May 28 2014, 10:34 AM

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QUOTE(petlu28 @ May 28 2014, 09:41 AM)
Do you think this product will help? I heard any products also can't help when heavy lightning comes.
*
Yes. it help. That is already few experience that my belkin surge protector did do the job. While also have bad experience which I didn't use the surge protector.

Majority of the lightning is not direct strike to your house. It come from the line. Any line that have voltage running currently during strike.
agas3i
post May 28 2014, 10:40 AM

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Hi all,

I just moving in my new house in Nilai. Regret that, the ELCB always trip during the thunderstorm/lightning. Almost everyday after coming back from work, ELCB trip. MCB did not trip.

The electrician who installed the fan/lamp said the house is using 40A ELCB. He advice to change for a higher rating i.e 60Amp.

I suspect that the grounding is not good enough.

Any advice/idea on how to overcome this problem. Im afraid it will effect others electrical appliances.

Thanks guys.
petlu28
post May 28 2014, 10:57 AM

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wow! that good. I plan buy 2 unit belkin surge protector when have internet later.

QUOTE(ozak @ May 28 2014, 10:34 AM)
Yes. it help. That is already few experience that my belkin surge protector did do the job. While also have bad experience which I didn't use the surge protector.

Majority of the lightning is not direct strike to your house. It come from the line. Any line that have voltage running currently during strike.
*
GaryLBV
post May 28 2014, 01:22 PM

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I've installed SPD Type 2 for my house 2 weeks ago.Very affordable & professional installation...Contact in the link below

http://lightningsurgeprotectionmalaysia.com/
liawei
post May 28 2014, 02:12 PM

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QUOTE(agas3i @ May 28 2014, 10:40 AM)
Hi all,

I just moving in my new house in Nilai. Regret that, the ELCB always trip during the thunderstorm/lightning. Almost everyday after coming back from work, ELCB trip. MCB did not trip.

The electrician who installed the fan/lamp said the house is using 40A ELCB. He advice to change for a higher rating i.e 60Amp.

I suspect that the grounding is not good enough.

Any advice/idea on how to overcome this problem. Im afraid it will effect others electrical appliances.

Thanks guys.
*
Your electrician is not solving the problem.
1) he did it right to change to 62A ELCB, which is common for residential in Malaysia. 40A was too small.
2) however, frequent tripping has nothing to do with 40A or 62A.
3) frequent tripping can be caused by:
A) poor earth connection as you suspected.
B) weak wire insulation somewhere in your house.
C) leakage current from some electrical appliances.

You can do:
1) identify which circuit breaker trip or is it random
2) get professional to measure earth value

You must not do:
1) don't simply listen to any electricians ask you to replace 100mA ELCB to a 300mA ELCB. This will reduce the sensitivity of ELCB trip but compromise on safety. This action is not solving the root cause and added the risk of electrocution.


liawei
post May 28 2014, 02:21 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ May 28 2014, 09:21 AM)
I don't see any developer in here that have install surge protector for your house. Even minimum level. Or an expensive bangle.
*
99% of houses in Malaysia don't have SPD. Developer will not add such additional cost unless it's an RM2mil and above property then slightly higher chance it will have the SPD.

Tokxx is big company working with developers, and expect big price from them as residential is not their key focus.

ozak
post May 28 2014, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(liawei @ May 28 2014, 02:21 PM)
99% of houses in Malaysia don't have SPD. Developer will not add such additional cost unless it's an RM2mil and above property then slightly higher chance it will have the SPD.

Tokxx is big company working with developers, and expect big price from them as residential is not their key focus.
*
I have seen those new banglo which cost RM2-3mil at some new housing area. Those house is at the very very high percentage of kena lightning area. But didn't see any SPD in the house. Probably hide somewhere.

The developer only setup few lightning pole with like a metal ball ontop the pole. Place at some house garden several area.

Mostly I use OKAYA. Which is also japan surge product maker. But not famous in here.
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post May 28 2014, 03:07 PM

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QUOTE(petlu28 @ May 28 2014, 10:57 AM)
wow! that good. I plan buy 2 unit belkin surge protector when have internet later.
*
Your house still no line? There is also others like Cal lab that does a good job too.

AV equipment also need to protect. This are sensitive equipment.
petlu28
post May 28 2014, 04:41 PM

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Still waiting telepone line & internet. doh.gif doh.gif

QUOTE(ozak @ May 28 2014, 03:07 PM)
Your house still no line? There is also others like Cal lab that does a good job too.

AV equipment also need to protect. This are sensitive equipment.
*
silent_killer
post May 28 2014, 05:47 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ May 28 2014, 09:21 AM)
I don't see any developer in here that have install surge protector for your house. Even minimum level. Or an expensive bangle.
*
Yes they install and conceal in the building itself, I have seen their work, but because the cable size they use is too small so when lightning strikes it cannot withstand such immense power going through therefore doesn't serve any purpose.

For surge protection, they only seems to install in big bungalows, for normal house they wouldnt bother

This post has been edited by silent_killer: May 28 2014, 05:59 PM
agas3i
post May 28 2014, 07:22 PM

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QUOTE(liawei @ May 28 2014, 03:12 PM)
Your electrician is not solving the problem.
1) he did it right to change to 62A ELCB, which is common for residential in Malaysia. 40A was too small.
2) however, frequent tripping has nothing to do with 40A or 62A.
3) frequent tripping can be caused by:
    A) poor earth connection as you suspected.
    B) weak wire insulation somewhere in your house.
    C) leakage current from some electrical appliances.

You can do:
1) identify which circuit breaker trip or is it random
2) get professional to measure earth value

You must not do:
1) don't simply listen to any electricians ask you to replace 100mA ELCB to a 300mA ELCB. This will reduce the sensitivity of ELCB trip but compromise on safety. This action is not solving the root cause and added the risk of electrocution.
*
Tq liawei. I have contacted http://lightningsurgeprotectionmalaysia.com/ and they are willing to look into my problem.
tengster
post May 28 2014, 07:46 PM

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QUOTE(silent_killer @ May 28 2014, 05:47 PM)
Yes they install and conceal in the building itself, I have seen their work, but because the cable size they use is too small so when lightning strikes it cannot withstand such immense power going through therefore doesn't serve any purpose.

For surge protection, they only seems to install in big bungalows, for normal house they wouldnt bother
*
Even for bungalow, no developer will install surge protector. No developer is such a nice soul in the world.

The one possible place to have it installed if the bungalow come with lift in which lift panel is very prone to surge-related damage. This surge protector is only good for surges. For proper lightning protection system, a good Faraday Cage is required.
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post May 28 2014, 07:47 PM

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QUOTE(silent_killer @ May 28 2014, 03:53 AM)
i would recommend http://tokai.com.my/solutions/esp.html they r the first company in Malaysia that started lightning & earthing industry. Developers nowadays want to maximise profit and save cost, so lightning protection installed by developers is very minimum.
*
Beside Tokai, Pekat teknologi is another competent contractor. Basically they use similar products i.e. furse, novaris and approved equivalent.....
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post May 28 2014, 07:50 PM

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QUOTE(exkaizen @ May 12 2014, 08:29 PM)
Got my house installled with SPD..  hopefully it wilk protect all equipment in my house.
*
Make sure you protect both power line and data line....
tengster
post May 28 2014, 07:55 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ May 28 2014, 02:47 PM)
I have seen those new banglo which cost RM2-3mil at some new housing area. Those house is at the very very high percentage of kena lightning area. But didn't see any SPD in the house. Probably hide somewhere.
THere is no corelation between incident and new housing area. There are only corelation between incident to location, building height, protection level and maintenance.

Location = Malaysia has at least 200+ lightning day per year. Certain area in MY are more prone.

Building height = the higher you are, the closer you are to the clouds where lightning originated.

Protection level = look at Faraday cage....ESE is not reliable despite whatever the suppliers claim. Go Singapore NationAL Science Centre to check out the effectiveness of a proper Faraday Cage... Protection level also includes the three tier surge protection level.

Maintenance = Seen anyone maintain those lightning protection system or SPD?
petlu28
post May 28 2014, 10:36 PM

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My contractor have install this for me when I request.

QUOTE(ozak @ May 28 2014, 03:07 PM)
Your house still no line? There is also others like Cal lab that does a good job too.

I plan buy belkin protect AV equipment.

AV equipment also need to protect. This are sensitive equipment.
*
QUOTE(silent_killer @ May 28 2014, 05:47 PM)
Yes they install and conceal in the building itself, I have seen their work, but because the cable size they use is too small so when lightning strikes it cannot withstand such immense power going through therefore doesn't serve any purpose.

How about this? Can protect?

For surge protection, they only seems to install in big bungalows, for normal house they wouldnt bother
*
QUOTE(tengster @ May 28 2014, 07:55 PM)
THere is no corelation between incident and new housing area. There are only corelation between incident to location, building height, protection level and maintenance.

Location = Malaysia has at least 200+ lightning day per year. Certain area in MY are more prone.

Building height = the higher you are, the closer you are to the clouds where lightning originated.

Protection level = look at Faraday cage....ESE is not reliable despite whatever the suppliers claim. Go Singapore NationAL Science Centre to check out the effectiveness of a proper Faraday Cage... Protection level also includes the three tier surge protection level.

Maintenance = Seen anyone maintain those lightning protection system or SPD?
*


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GaryLBV
post May 29 2014, 08:51 AM

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QUOTE(petlu28 @ May 28 2014, 10:36 PM)
My contractor have install this for me when I request.
*
Take note that the SPD is max at 40ka
Would recommend at least 80 ka
ozak
post May 29 2014, 09:28 AM

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QUOTE(petlu28 @ May 28 2014, 10:36 PM)
My contractor have install this for me when I request.
*
Should be ok la. Till your next equipment KFC. tongue.gif

How much is this?
Longshot
post May 29 2014, 11:28 AM

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QUOTE(GaryLBV @ May 28 2014, 01:22 PM)
I've installed SPD Type 2 for my house 2 weeks ago.Very affordable & professional installation...Contact in the link below

http://lightningsurgeprotectionmalaysia.com/
*
Click the link and i got this:

Bandwidth Limit Exceeded
GaryLBV
post May 29 2014, 01:33 PM

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QUOTE(Longshot @ May 29 2014, 11:28 AM)
Click the link and i got this:

Bandwidth Limit Exceeded
*
Just clicked on it...yup...Bandwidth exceeded' Try this FB link

https://www.facebook.com/LightningSurgeProt...onMalaysia/info

or call the guy directly

Wayne

016 233 0400


aquaria87
post May 29 2014, 02:07 PM

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How much the cost..how they http://www.lightningsurgeprotectionmalaysia.com make the calculation? based on power socket or how? or number of fuse in the DB?
petlu28
post May 29 2014, 04:28 PM

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why need 80 ka?

QUOTE(GaryLBV @ May 29 2014, 08:51 AM)
Take note that the SPD is max at 40ka
Would recommend at least 80 ka
*
my contractor didn't charge me this equipment. That means ok or not 40ka? hmm.gif hmm.gif
May I know beside surge protector blue color & test button for what.

QUOTE(ozak @ May 29 2014, 09:28 AM)
Should be ok la. Till your next equipment KFC.  tongue.gif

How much is this?
*
This post has been edited by petlu28: May 29 2014, 11:55 PM
hebronep
post May 29 2014, 05:10 PM

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QUOTE(tengster @ May 28 2014, 07:47 PM)
Beside Tokai, Pekat teknologi is another competent contractor. Basically they use similar products i.e. furse, novaris and approved equivalent.....
*
I used Pekat Teknologi to install Surge Protection and Lightning Protection for Setia Eco Park home as the home (3 storey high with lift) is higher than the 2 storey homes nearby. Expensive but with lightning flashing around during thunderstorms ... (Weather is not like when I was a young man. Nowadays heavier rains and frequent close-by lightning strikes.)

This post has been edited by hebronep: May 29 2014, 05:11 PM
tengster
post May 29 2014, 05:18 PM

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QUOTE(hebronep @ May 29 2014, 05:10 PM)
I used Pekat Teknologi to install Surge Protection and Lightning Protection for Setia Eco Park home as the home (3 storey high with lift) is higher than the  2 storey homes nearby. Expensive but with lightning flashing around during thunderstorms ...  (Weather is not like when I was a  young man. Nowadays heavier rains and frequent close-by lightning strikes.)
*
hebronep - So far, any problems....any damage incurred? I think the weather is the same lah. Just that nowadays we have more sensitive equipment that are prone to surge damage. Last time, we still swim naked in river or ex-ming pool despite thunder clapping kau kau...or we are still playing bola sepak lumpur till dusk ro gelap. tongue.gif

Theorectically, yearly maintenance is required to verify the earthing conductivity, continuity of the Faraday cage (from top to ground) and also to check on the SPD......This may cost some money.
hebronep
post May 29 2014, 05:27 PM

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QUOTE(tengster @ May 29 2014, 05:18 PM)
hebronep - So far, any problems....any damage incurred? I think the weather is the same lah. Just that nowadays we have more sensitive equipment that are prone to surge damage. Last time, we still swim naked in river or ex-ming pool despite thunder clapping kau kau...or we are still playing bola sepak lumpur till dusk ro gelap. tongue.gif

Theorectically, yearly maintenance is required to verify the earthing conductivity, continuity of the Faraday cage (from top to ground) and also to check on the SPD......This may cost some money.
*
No problems so far ( 3+ years). I also installed a lighting monitor (on-top of copper cable from roof to ground copper rods) which reads how many direct lightning strike on the home. I will read next time I am in Eco Park home.

Surge protection will filter out all the power line communication signals. No use to use power line communications if you intend to install surge
protection. Better to position the wireless router in optimum location such that reasonable signals can be received in all parts of the home.
tengster
post May 29 2014, 05:35 PM

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QUOTE(hebronep @ May 29 2014, 05:27 PM)
No problems so far ( 3+ years).  I also installed a lighting monitor (on-top of copper cable from roof to ground copper rods) which reads how many direct lightning  strike on the home.  I will read next time I am in Eco Park home.

Surge protection will filter out all the power line communication signals. No use to use power line communications if you intend to install surge
protection. Better to position the wireless router in optimum location such that reasonable signals can be received in all parts of the home.
*
hmmm..lightning counter is good for lightning. this little device clamped onto the copper tape may not read surge attack...but good to have...


liawei
post May 29 2014, 07:57 PM

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QUOTE(aquaria87 @ May 29 2014, 02:07 PM)
How much the cost..how they http://www.lightningsurgeprotectionmalaysia.com make the calculation? based on power socket or how? or number of fuse in the DB?
*
The pricig of the SPD based on:
1) maximum surge current needed- 20/40/60/80/100/120/150kA
2) classification of surge protection- class 1/2/3
3) Brand- price varies very much with different brand and technology
4) single phase or 3 phase power line.

Usually the price range from RM400-RM2500, depending on the selection of the above criterias.

big or small house doesn't matter.
Electricity consumption doesnt matter.


liawei
post May 29 2014, 08:06 PM

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QUOTE(Longshot @ May 29 2014, 11:28 AM)
Click the link and i got this:

Bandwidth Limit Exceeded
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The site is up now.
GaryLBV
post May 30 2014, 10:39 AM

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QUOTE(petlu28 @ May 29 2014, 04:28 PM)
why need 80 ka?
my contractor didn't charge me this equipment. That means ok or not 40ka?  hmm.gif  hmm.gif
May I know beside surge protector blue color & test button for what.
*
If FOC, ok la...the blu/test button is on the ELCB (Earth Leak Circuit Breaker). Recommended to push the button monthly to ensure that the eLCB turns off. If you press the button and the elcb does not cut off, time to change a new one.
GaryLBV
post May 30 2014, 10:40 AM

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QUOTE(aquaria87 @ May 29 2014, 02:07 PM)
How much the cost..how they http://www.lightningsurgeprotectionmalaysia.com make the calculation? based on power socket or how? or number of fuse in the DB?
*
It's based on the supply ( single/3 phase)
petlu28
post May 30 2014, 11:23 AM

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Oh. Just test ELCB have functioning or not? I didn't push it when start staying there until now. biggrin.gif biggrin.gif

QUOTE(GaryLBV @ May 30 2014, 10:39 AM)
If FOC, ok la...the blu/test button is on the ELCB (Earth Leak Circuit Breaker). Recommended to push the button monthly to ensure that the eLCB turns off. If you press the button and the elcb does not cut off, time to change a new one.
*
Lerner
post May 30 2014, 03:25 PM

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we should go for Greater kA or the smaller kA in the SPD ?


exkaizen
post May 30 2014, 04:58 PM

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QUOTE(GaryLBV @ May 29 2014, 01:33 PM)
Just clicked on it...yup...Bandwidth exceeded' Try this FB link

https://www.facebook.com/LightningSurgeProt...onMalaysia/info

or call the guy directly

Wayne

016 233 0400
*
yup... I've installed mine from him... thumbup.gif
N73
post May 30 2014, 06:57 PM

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QUOTE(exkaizen @ May 12 2014, 08:29 PM)
Got my house installled with SPD..  hopefully it wilk protect all equipment in my house.
*
Hi xekaizen, how much you pay for the SPD?
exkaizen
post May 31 2014, 09:42 AM

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QUOTE(N73 @ May 30 2014, 06:57 PM)
Hi xekaizen, how much you pay for the SPD?
*
450 if not mistaken
westom
post Jun 1 2014, 05:19 AM

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QUOTE(Lerner @ May 30 2014, 11:25 AM)
we should go for Greater kA or the smaller kA in the SPD ?

Learn what an effective SPD does? This was first demonstrated by Franklin in 1752.

Lightning (and other surges) seeks earth ground. A best connection to earth is via a wooden church steeple. Because wood is a better electrical conductor than air. Unfortunately, wood is a poor conductor. So a 20,000 amp lightning strike would create a high voltage. 20,000 amps times a high voltage is high energy. Church steeple damaged.

Franklin connected lightning to earth via a better conductor - often called a lightning rod. That conductor is a better conductor. So a 20,000 amp lightning strike creates a near zero voltage. 20,000 amps times a near zero voltage is near zero energy. No damage.

That is protection of a structure. We do same to protect appliances.

Lightning seeks earth ground. A best connection to earth is via appliances. Unfortunately appliances are poor conductors. So a massive current would create a high voltage inside the appliance. That high current times a resulting high voltage is high energy. Appliance damaged.

For over 100 years, informed consumers connected lightning to earth via a better conductor. Usually a direct hardwire connection. Otherwise a next best solution is implements: a 'whole house' protector. Then 20,000 amps connected low impedance (ie 'less than 3 meters') to earth creates a near zero voltage. The resulting near zero voltage means no energy dissipates destructively in appliances. No appliance damaged.

A protector adjacent to the appliance does not do this. The protector at the service entrance must be sized to connect even direct lightning strikes to earth. And not fail. So a minimal 'whole house' protector is 50,000 amps. If a surge damaged that protector, then a 100,000 amp protector is needed in that venue.

Described is what effective protectors work, why they work, and relevant numbers such as 50,000 amps. Because any protector that fails did not provide effective protection. Protectors must not fail even after many direct lightning strikes.

What should also be obvious is what is more important than a protector. Protection is defined by the quality and connection to earth ground. Both for structure protection and for appliance protection. Most of your attention should focus on THE most important component in every protection 'system': earth ground. Since that is always where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate.

This post has been edited by westom: Jun 1 2014, 05:22 AM
paskal
post Jun 1 2014, 06:50 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Jun 1 2014, 05:19 AM)
Learn what an effective SPD does?  This was first demonstrated by Franklin in 1752.

Lightning (and other surges) seeks earth ground.  A best connection to earth is via a wooden church steeple.  Because wood is a better electrical conductor than air.  Unfortunately, wood is a poor conductor.  So a 20,000 amp lightning strike would create a high voltage.  20,000 amps times a high voltage is high energy.  Church steeple damaged.

Franklin connected lightning to earth via a better conductor - often called a lightning rod.  That conductor is a better conductor.  So a 20,000 amp lightning strike creates a near zero voltage.  20,000 amps times a near zero voltage is near zero energy.  No damage.

That is protection of a structure.  We do same to protect appliances.

Lightning seeks earth ground.  A best connection to earth is via appliances. Unfortunately appliances are poor conductors.  So a massive current would create a high voltage inside the appliance.  That high current times a resulting high voltage is high energy.  Appliance damaged.

For over 100 years, informed consumers connected lightning to earth via a better conductor.  Usually a direct hardwire connection.  Otherwise a next best solution is implements: a 'whole house' protector. Then 20,000 amps connected low impedance (ie 'less than 3 meters') to earth creates a near zero voltage.  The resulting near zero voltage means no energy dissipates destructively in appliances.  No appliance damaged.

A protector adjacent to the appliance does not do this.  The protector at the service entrance must be sized to connect even direct lightning strikes to earth.  And not fail.  So a minimal 'whole house' protector is 50,000 amps.  If a surge damaged that protector, then a 100,000 amp protector is needed in that venue.

Described is what effective protectors work, why they work, and relevant numbers such as 50,000 amps.  Because any protector that fails did not provide effective protection.  Protectors must not fail even after many direct lightning strikes.

What should also be obvious is what is more important than a protector.  Protection is defined by the quality and connection to earth ground. Both for structure protection and for appliance protection.  Most of your attention should focus on THE most important component in every protection 'system': earth ground.  Since that is always where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate.
*
yes westom. you're more knowledgeable than IEEE.
say westom, are you familiar with the local wiring scheme? do you know that us over here is required BY LAW to implement earth grounding into the structural wiring?

and we here are indeed talking about diversion and dissipation of the lightning energy safely to the earth grounding THROUGH SURGE PROTECTION DEVICES. and while i could argue with your whole voltage this, voltage that, no energy no current zero voltage crap, i'm gonna let it slide.

enough with your endeavour to discredit the use of SPD and electronics surge protectors.
westom
post Jun 1 2014, 10:05 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Jun 1 2014, 02:50 PM)
do you know that us over here is required BY LAW to implement earth grounding into the structural wiring?

Apparently important numbers were ignored. That ground in a wall receptacle is not earth ground. Codes require a safety ground. Electrical characteristics such as 'less than 3 meters', no sharp wire bends, no splices, and ground wire separated from other non-grounding wires are critically important. Please grasp important references to low impedance to appreciate a difference between 'safety' ground and 'earth' ground.

Lightning is best connected to earth via a direct hardwire connection. A next best solution implements the same low impedance, earth ground connection via a 'whole house' protector. Then 20,000 amps connects low impedance (ie 'less than 3 meters') to earth; creates a near zero voltage. A resulting near zero voltage means no energy dissipates destructively in appliances. No appliance damaged.

Protectors adjacent to appliances cannot earth that energy. Too close to appliances and too far from earth ground electrodes. These devices must somehow block or absorb energy. This different device, also called a surge protector, does not claim to protect from destructive surges. Instead, it only claims to protect from surges typically so small as to be made irrelevant by protection already inside appliances.

Sometimes a surge too tiny to harm an appliance will destroy a grossly undersized and adjacent protector. A failed protector did not do protection. The appliance protected itself.

Concepts such as wire bends and wire length can subvert an earth ground connection. For example, connect a 200 watt transmitter to a long wire antenna. Touch one part of that long wire to feel near zero volts. Touch another part to be shocked by over 100 volts. Why two voltages on the same wire? These electrical characteristics explain why a wall receptacle's safety ground is not earth ground.

Effective protector must be located adjacent (ie 'less than 3 meters') to a single point earth ground. Last four words also have electrical significance. A protector too far from single point earth ground (ie connected to a wall receptacle) is not earthed. And does not even claim to do what an effective 'whole house' protector does.

Rather than ignore relevant numbers, appreciate these electrical concepts even defined in IEEE standards. What many mistake as an earth ground is really only a safety ground. This difference explains why best protectors are distant from appliances (ie up to 50 meters) and as close to earth ground as practicable. Please do not ignore the expression 'low impedance'. Protectors without that 'low impedance' connection do not claim to protect appliances from destructive surges. Ignoring that voltage discuss implies you did not understand an important concept: impedance.

This post has been edited by westom: Jun 1 2014, 10:08 PM
tengster
post Jun 2 2014, 11:03 AM

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QUOTE(westom @ Jun 1 2014, 10:05 PM)
Apparently important numbers were ignored.  That ground in a wall receptacle is not earth ground.  Codes require a safety ground.  Electrical characteristics such as 'less than 3 meters', no sharp wire bends, no splices, and ground wire separated from other non-grounding wires are critically important.  Please grasp important references to low impedance to appreciate a difference between 'safety' ground and 'earth' ground.

Lightning is best connected to earth via a direct hardwire connection.  A next best solution implements the same low impedance, earth ground connection via a 'whole house' protector. Then 20,000 amps connects low impedance (ie 'less than 3 meters') to earth; creates a near zero voltage.  A resulting near zero voltage means no energy dissipates destructively in appliances.  No appliance damaged.

Protectors adjacent to appliances cannot earth that energy.  Too close to appliances and too far from earth ground electrodes.  These devices must somehow block or absorb energy.  This different device, also called a surge protector, does not claim to protect from destructive surges.  Instead, it only claims to protect from surges typically so small as to be made irrelevant by protection already inside appliances.

Sometimes a surge too tiny to harm an appliance will destroy a grossly undersized and adjacent protector.  A failed protector did not do protection.  The appliance protected itself.

Concepts such as wire bends and wire length can subvert an earth ground connection.  For example, connect a 200 watt transmitter to a long wire antenna.  Touch one part of that long wire to feel near zero volts.  Touch another part to be shocked by over 100 volts.  Why two voltages on the same wire?  These electrical characteristics explain why a wall receptacle's safety ground is not earth ground.

Effective protector must be located adjacent (ie 'less than 3 meters') to a single point earth ground.  Last four words also have electrical significance.  A protector too far from single point earth ground (ie connected to a wall receptacle) is not earthed.  And does not even claim to do what an effective 'whole house' protector does.

Rather than ignore relevant numbers, appreciate these electrical concepts even defined in IEEE standards. What many mistake as an earth ground is really only a safety ground.  This difference explains why best protectors are distant from appliances (ie up to 50 meters) and as close to earth ground as practicable.  Please do not ignore the expression 'low impedance'.  Protectors without that 'low impedance' connection do not claim to protect appliances from destructive surges.  Ignoring that voltage discuss implies you did not understand an important concept: impedance.
*
notworthy.gif good sharing...

Can share with you how to size SPD accordingly? Let say for a bungalow nod.gif
westom
post Jun 2 2014, 06:55 PM

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QUOTE(tengster @ Jun 2 2014, 07:03 AM)
Can share with you how to size SPD accordingly?

A protector must not fail. So what will be a typically largest surge? Lightning is typically 20,000 amps. So a minimal SPD should be rated at least 50,000 amps.

SPDs have an indicator light that only reports one type of failure. If its indicator light reports any failure, then the SPD was grossly undersized. Then a 100,000 amp protector is probably necessary.

SPD is only one part of a 'system'. SPD must be sized to not fail over many decades. The 'system's effectiveness during each surge is defined by the other and more important component - earth ground. 'System' effectiveness for each surge is defined by the quality of and connecton to single point earth ground.

Protectors are simple science. Earthing is an 'srt'.

tengster
post Jun 2 2014, 07:00 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Jun 2 2014, 06:55 PM)
A protector must not fail.  So what will be a typically largest surge?  Lightning is typically 20,000 amps.  So a minimal SPD should be rated at least 50,000 amps.

SPDs have an indicator light that only reports one type of failure.  If its indicator light reports any failure, then the SPD was grossly undersized.  Then a 100,000 amp protector is probably necessary.

SPD is only one part of a 'system'.  SPD must be sized to not fail over many decades.  The 'system's effectiveness during each surge is defined by the other and more important component - earth ground.  'System' effectiveness for each surge is defined by the quality of and connecton to single point earth ground.

Protectors are simple science.  Earthing is an 'srt'.
*
Why are we using SPD to protect our appliances from direct lightning exposure? Arent deviate from the intention? Lightning Protection System such as Faraday cage is protect our appliances from direct lightning. I seriously think there are no SPD that can protect one from direct hit...

SPD is normally used to protect more sensitive equipment from lightning-induced surved or other form of surges.

note - SPD = surge protection device
westom
post Jun 2 2014, 07:18 PM

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QUOTE(tengster @ Jun 2 2014, 03:00 PM)
I seriously think there are no SPD that can protect one from direct hit...

So how often is your town without phone service for four days after each storm? A typical bulding may suffer a major surge every seven years. But the telco's computer is connected all over town. Thefore it suffers about 100 surges per storm. And without damage. Because protection from direct lightning strikes has been that routine for that long.

If protection from direct strikes could not exist, then telephone operators would remove headsets and leave the room with each storm. Reality. Even 100 years ago, that was unnecessary. Because protection from direct strikes was that well understood that long ago.

Protection uses a proven concept similar to a Faraday cage. But a Faraday cage is compromised if even one wire in any cable does not first connect to what performs a Faraday cage effect - single point earth ground. That is what a protector does. Protection is compromised if a protector does not make that low impedance (ie 'less than 3 meters') connection to single point earth ground.

A 'more sensitive' equipment is virtually every household appliance. That includes the dishwasher, air conditioner, dimmer switches, CFL bulbs, and clocks. Most every appliance now contains electronics. And all appliances are now as or more robust than that appliance was 40 years ago. Homeowners are only just learning about what was standard 50 years ago in facilities that could never have damage.


This post has been edited by westom: Jun 2 2014, 07:25 PM
tengster
post Jun 2 2014, 07:25 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Jun 2 2014, 07:18 PM)
So how often is your town without phone service for four days after each storm?  A typical bulding may suffer a major surge every seven years.  But the telco's computer is connected all over town.  Thefore it suffers about 100 surges per storm.  And without damage.  Because protection from direct lightning strikes has been that routine for that long.

If protection from direct strikes could not exist, then telephone operators would remove headsets and leave the room with each storm.  Reality.  Even 100 years ago, that was unnecessary.  Because protection from direct strikes was that well understood that long ago.

Protection uses a proven concept similar to a Faraday cage.  But a Faraday cage is compromised if even one wire in any cable does not first connect to what performs a Faraday cage effect - single point earth ground.  That is what a protector does.  Protection is compromised if a protector does not make that low impedance (ie 'less than 3 meters') connection to single point earth ground.
*
Afaik, KL has not experienced 4 days downtime on phone service.

I am getting more confused with your post. Just now, you are talking about SPD sizing and now you talking about my town, building, protection...Faraday cage that is compromised.....Faraday Cage mostly used copper tape from top to bottom.....only very limited occassion, they use cable.

I think I have to stop reading your post to avoid confusion. Pemikiran berserabut, payah pembaca. icon_rolleyes.gif
paskal
post Jun 2 2014, 07:26 PM

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whole house protector like what?
any wiring diagram? anything to show? any example?

you could place your trust in this westom over here. zero voltage here, zero voltage there, boom no lightning strike.
or you could follow the recommendation from IEEE here.
or if that's too much to read, there's a simpler one over here.

yeah i'll use SPD. whatever westom might say about it.
westom
post Jun 2 2014, 07:34 PM

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QUOTE(tengster @ Jun 2 2014, 03:25 PM)
Afaik, KL has not experienced 4 days downtime on phone service.
Of course not - as I said. KL must have long used a 'whole house' solution. Their switching computer is threatened by about 100 surges with each storm - without damage. Because surge protection routinely makes direct lightning strikes irrelevant.

If you read something the first time and understand it, then it did not introduce anything new. If a concept is this new, then it should be reread at least three times. You misunderstand (misread) an example of direct lightning strikes without damage.

I never said KL suffered 4 days of downtime. Please read what was posted. I said KL never experiences 4 days of downtime because protection from direct lightning strikes is routine. So routine that damage is traceable to a human mistake.

This post has been edited by westom: Jun 2 2014, 07:37 PM
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post Jun 2 2014, 07:37 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Jun 2 2014, 07:34 PM)
Of course not - as I said.  KL must have long used a 'whole house' solution.  Their switching computer is threatened by about 100 surges with each storm - without damage.  Because surge protection routinely makes direct lightning strikes irrelevant.

If you read something the first time and understand it, then it did not introduce anything new.  If a concept is this new, then it should be reread at least three times. You did not understand a simple example of direct lightning strikes without damage.

I never said KL suffered 4 days of downtime.  Please read what was posted.  I said KL never experiences 4 days of downtime because protection from direct lightning strikes is routine.  So routine that damage is traceable to a human mistake.
*
my apology.
westom
post Jun 2 2014, 08:00 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Jun 2 2014, 03:26 PM)
you could place your trust in this westom over here. zero voltage here, zero voltage there, boom no lightning strike.
IEEE is a source of what I have summarized. For example, IEEE Std 142 is entitled 'Static and Lightning Protection Grounding:
QUOTE
Lightning cannot be prevented; it can only be intercepted or diverted to a path which will, if well designed and constructed, not result in damage.  Even this means is not positive, providing only 99.5-99.9% protection.  ...
Still, a 99.5% protection level will reduce the incidence of direct strokes from one stroke per 30 years ... to one stroke per 6000 years ...  Protection at 99.5% is the practical choice.

Suitable protection is nearly always provided by the installation of air terminals, down conductors, and grounding electrodes.

Standard 1100 says:
QUOTE
It is important to ensure that low-impedance grounding and bonding connections exist among the telephone and data equipment, the ac power system's electrical safety-grounding system, and the building grounding electrode system.  ...
Failure to observe any part of this grounding requirement may result in hazardous potential being developed between the telephone (data) equipment and other grounded items that personnel may be near or might simultaneously contact.

Summarized here are the principles that all industry professionals discuss for protection. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground.

Another IEEE Standard says
QUOTE
In actual practice, lightning protection is achieve by the process of interception of lightning produced surges, diverting them to ground, and by altering their associated wave shapes.


IEEE Standard 80 says:
QUOTE
Secondary arresters will be used only for low-voltage services at munitions areas and buildings which house computer and sensitive electronics equipment. Arresters will be located as close to the electrical service entrance as possible and a separate ground conductor from the secondary service entrance will be bonded to the building ground ring. Range of voltage ratings is 0.175 kV to 0.650 kV.
What is that secondary arrester? The 'whole house' protector. Secondary protection is located at the service entrance. A primary protection layer is installed by the utility.

One can criticize. Or one can first comprehend their technical sources. IEEE and I say same. Another forget to read what the IEEE says.

paskal
post Jun 3 2014, 10:06 AM

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QUOTE(westom @ Jun 2 2014, 08:00 PM)
Summarized here are the principles that all industry professionals discuss for protection.  A protector is only as effective as its earth ground.
*
so now the protector is highly dependent on earth ground? you said the ground inside the receptacle is not earth ground?
and i quote:
QUOTE
Apparently important numbers were ignored. That ground in a wall receptacle is not earth ground. Codes require a safety ground. Electrical characteristics such as 'less than 3 meters', no sharp wire bends, no splices, and ground wire separated from other non-grounding wires are critically important. Please grasp important references to low impedance to appreciate a difference between 'safety' ground and 'earth' ground.

is that cable going from the distribution box to the earth? the large copper cable?

oh yes we already have those in our distribution box. how is that different from your suggestion? your 3 meter rule? move the service entrance/distribution box? so you're suggesting that we move our DB to somewhere where it doesn't breach your 3 meter rule? how about if i live in a condo?

QUOTE(westom @ Jun 2 2014, 08:00 PM)
IEEE Standard 80 says:  What is that secondary arrester?  The 'whole house' protector.  Secondary protection is located at the service entrance.  A primary protection layer is installed by the utility.
*
primary protection = installed by utility, correct?
secondary protection = lightning arrestor, correct?
westom
post Jun 3 2014, 12:47 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Jun 3 2014, 06:06 AM)
so now the protector is highly dependent on earth ground? you said the ground inside the receptacle is not earth ground?

Correct. So why the confusion? This was explained repeatedly because it is new and therefore difficult to grasp.

Or maybe another fundamental fact, posted previously, was misunderstood. Electricity is never same at both ends of a wire. Earth ground and safety ground are electrically different. I don't understand why this fundamental fact was not read. Was that long wire antenna example unread?

Receptacle safety ground is not earth ground. Why is that confusing?

A ballpark three meter rule comes from basic circuit theory. One protector is best because it has no earth ground connection. Instead, that protector mounts ON earth ground. Zero meters to earth means better protection.

Correct. Primary protection is provided by the utility. A picture demonstates what does that protection:
http://www.tvtower.com/fpl.html

Secondary protection is not a lightning arrestor (lightning rod or protector). Those are only connecting devices. Each layer of protection is defined by what absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules. A protector only connects to that other 'system' component: earth ground. Earth ground (not an arrestor) is the protection. Due to advertising myths and hearsay, this concept is extremely hard to grasp.

A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Same is also true for lightning rods. Lightning rod is for protection of a structure. 'Whole house' protector is for protection of appliances. In every case and in every layer of protection: the only component that must always exist and that does the protection is earth ground.

This post has been edited by westom: Jun 3 2014, 12:48 PM
liawei
post Jun 3 2014, 01:10 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Jun 3 2014, 10:06 AM)
so now the protector is highly dependent on earth ground? you said the ground inside the receptacle is not earth ground?
and i quote:

is that cable going from the distribution box to the earth? the large copper cable?

oh yes we already have those in our distribution box. how is that different from your suggestion? your 3 meter rule? move the service entrance/distribution box? so you're suggesting that we move our DB to somewhere where it doesn't breach your 3 meter rule? how about if i live in a condo?
primary protection = installed by utility, correct?
secondary protection = lightning arrestor, correct?
*
Utility companies never installed any so called "primary protection" for you.

Primary protection is the SPD installed at the 1st entry point, that is in the DB. In Malaysia, 99% buildings do not have it. Don't mistakenly assume the ELCB as SPD. In advanced countries, ELCB+SPD must be installef in order to get CF. Too bad in Malaysia and other SEA countries, SPD has been omitted due to poor awareness.

Secondary protection is the additional protection installed at the point of use.

Both primary and secondary protections are heavily relying on good earthing. "3 meter rule" is just a layman term guideline. In reality you can hardly see the earth path that is less than 3 meters.What important is the soil resistivity. You may have > 3 meters earth wire but as long as it is thick enough and connected to a earth rod with <5 ohm earth resistance, it is perfectly fine.
paskal
post Jun 3 2014, 08:49 PM

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QUOTE(liawei @ Jun 3 2014, 01:10 PM)
Utility companies never installed any so called "primary protection" for you.

Primary protection is the SPD installed at the 1st entry point, that is in the DB. In Malaysia, 99% buildings do not have it. Don't mistakenly assume the ELCB as SPD. In advanced countries, ELCB+SPD must be installef in order to get CF. Too bad in Malaysia and other SEA countries, SPD has been omitted due to poor awareness.

Secondary protection is the additional protection installed at the point of use.

Both primary and secondary protections are heavily relying on good earthing.  "3 meter rule" is just a layman term guideline. In reality you can hardly see the earth path that is less than 3 meters.What important is the soil resistivity.  You may have > 3 meters earth wire but as long as it is thick enough and connected to a earth rod with <5 ohm earth resistance, it is perfectly fine.
*
didn't you read? westom already said the primary protection is already installed by the utility.
and i quote:
QUOTE
Correct. Primary protection is provided by the utility. A picture demonstates what does that protection:
http://www.tvtower.com/fpl.html

and i quote another one:
QUOTE
IEEE Standard 80 says:  What is that secondary arrester?  The 'whole house' protector.  Secondary protection is located at the service entrance.  A primary protection layer is installed by the utility.

he's right. so you must be wrong.


paskal
post Jun 3 2014, 09:03 PM

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i'm quite tired of this whole debacle.
search on the net about westom and his entire plight against surge protectors.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=westom+surge+protector

he went on this mission to discredit the use of surge protectors. he registers himself at various forums and post all the technical jargon suggesting his whole house protection without giving any clear advice on how to actually implement this protection of his. got into the nerves of quite some people.
he previously came inside the discussion about belkin and cal-lab in home theatre and discredited their use.

the problem is, even IEEE recommends the use SPD and any other form of surge protectors. even appliance level SPD is explained inside IEEE guide.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

but sure, you guys could place your trust to some random guy posting in some random internet forum.
westom
post Jun 3 2014, 09:53 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Jun 3 2014, 05:03 PM)
i'm quite tired of this whole debacle.
No debate exists. Provided was the science. You openly deny using wild speculation, hearsay, and by ignoring 100 years of proven science. If it was a debate, then your beliefs are supported by facts and numbers. You have yet to post even one manufacturer specification number that defines effective protection. Honesty also provides facts with numbers. Lies and myths are quickly identified by subjective (qualitative) denials.

Look. I did this stuff for decades. And you clearly did not. Direct lightning strikes without damage. Others are warning about the naive who make recommendations only because advertising taught them. Provided are basic concepts and numbers that define protection. You tire only because you cannot dispute over 100 years of well proven science. And refuse to admit hearsay easily manipulated you. So now you would attack the messenger rather than admit to being a victim.

IEEE recommend tiny additional protectors only with the 'whole house' solution. IEEE and other professionals are bluntly clear about that. One brochure even shows a protector earthing a surge 8000 volts destructively through an adjacent TV. Becase the 'whole house' solution was not implemented and earthed. Please stop reading IEEE material selectively. IEEE says what works by also saying where hundreds of thousands of joules harmelessly dissipate.

Why, in every reply, do you ignore that reality? It is not a debate. It is science exposing parables and fables. If you know this stuff, then quote the specific electrical concepts and numbers from your own citations. You cannot. An honest reply quotes the relevant point. But you really do not understand what is relevant. You you throw mud on the wall hoping that something might stick. Please stop denying over 100 years of well proven science.

A protector is only a connecting device to what does protection. What does protection is what harmlessly absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules. That simple science could not be easier. Only solution in facilities that cannot have damage has always been a "low impedance" connection to earth ground. For over 100 years, the proven solution has always said where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate. Rather than vent emotions, why not answer the fundamental question? Where do hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate?

There is no debate. The question, that you refuse to answer, is asked repeatedly. Where does that energy dissipate?

A plug-in protector has a purpose. It may provide an additional 0.2% protection. But only when used in conjunction with the 'whole house' solution. It does what its spec numbers says it will do. It does not claim and cannot protect from typically destructive surges that occur maybe once every seven years. Those are realities provided with numbers.

Protection is always about earth ground - where hundreds of thousands of joules are harmlessly absorbed. Each protection layer is defined by what harmlessly absorbs energy - earth ground. Some protection systems have no protectors. But every protection layer always has the one item that defines protection - earth ground. Always. Advertising will not discuss earth ground. No profit in it. Over 100 years of science and experience is why every facility that cannot have damage upgrades and inspects THE most important component in the protection system - earth ground. They inspect, learn of, and fix potential problems. And do not tire by remaining attached to lies and myths.

Where do hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate? A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Each protection layer is only defined by what absorbs the energy - earth ground. Reality does not change because you remain in denial.

This post has been edited by westom: Jun 3 2014, 10:05 PM
paskal
post Jun 3 2014, 11:01 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Jun 3 2014, 09:53 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

There is no debate.  The question, that you refuse to answer, is asked repeatedly.  Where does that energy dissipate? 
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
to the earth ground, where else?
that's the sole reason why the earth ground exist in your distribution box. that's why it's wired through a copper clamp, to a copper pole right into the ground. why it exist near the distribution box, not wired 200 meters away to the other edge of the house.

should i take a picture of the distribution box to you and label where is the earth connection?

QUOTE(westom @ Jun 3 2014, 12:47 PM)
Receptacle safety ground is not earth ground. Why is that confusing?
*
QUOTE(westom @ Jun 3 2014, 12:47 PM)
Earth ground and safety ground are electrically different.  I don't understand why this fundamental fact was not read.  Was that long wire antenna example unread?
*
so westom, explain to us, how is the earth ground and safety ground different?
user posted imageuser posted image
assuming i didn't read your whole long wire antenna analogy, copy paste it here so i can finally understand the difference between the earth ground and the safety ground that we have in the 3 pin receptacle.

please westom, please elaborate how it's different?
silent_killer
post Jun 3 2014, 11:05 PM

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QUOTE(GaryLBV @ May 29 2014, 08:51 AM)
Take note that the SPD is max at 40ka
Would recommend at least 80 ka
*
care to elaborate why 80 ka is the minimum?
liawei
post Jun 4 2014, 12:09 AM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Jun 3 2014, 08:49 PM)
didn't you read? westom already said the primary protection is already installed by the utility.
and i quote:

and i quote another one:

he's right. so you must be wrong.
*
Ok, I'm so wrong. smile.gif
Go ask TNB what kind of primary protection they have put in for you.
westom
post Jun 4 2014, 12:04 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Jun 3 2014, 07:01 PM)
so westom, explain to us, how is the earth ground and safety ground different?

Concepts such as impedance are taught to first semester students. If impedance is unknown, then you have no business denying what has been well proven for over 100 years. Why impedance is significant was discussed repeatedly.

Why grounds are different was explained many times; using multiple reasons. Impedance is one. Since this is new, then do what was (should have been) taught in school. Something this new requires multiple rereads. Go back and read those many paragraphs that apparently you ignored. Then post what you understand. Followed by where you become confused. It was explained repeatedly. But you have to do the work - first read it.

Electricity is always different at both ends of every wire. How that difference is relevant was explained multiple times - sometimes with numbers. Electrical concepts make obvious that various grounds are electrically different. A repeatedly posted number (you could not miss it) even defines this: 'less than 3 meters'.

This post has been edited by westom: Jun 4 2014, 12:46 PM
GaryLBV
post Jun 4 2014, 12:51 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Jun 4 2014, 12:04 PM)
Concepts such as impedance are taught to first semester students.  If impedance is unknown, then you have no business denying what has been well proven for over 100 years. Why impoedance is significant was discussed repeatedly.

Why grounds are different was explained many times; using multiple reasons. Impedance is one.  Since this is new, then do what was (should have been) taught in school  Something this new requires multiple rereads.  Go back and read those many paragraphs that apparently you ignored. Then post what you understand.  Followed by where you become confused.  It wasl explained repeatedly.  But you have to do the work - first read it.

Electricity is always different at both ends of every wire.  How that difference is relevant was explained multiple times - sometimes with numbers.  Electrical concepts make obvious that various grounds are electrically different.  A repeatedly posted number (you could not miss it) even defines this: 'less than 3 meters'.
*
Well folks, this is where democracy lies. Westom can present a whole 100 volumes on why we don't need SPD. The choice is clear,

-Place your trust in a 'professor' who has no practical experience, just a bunch of technical jargon to confuse folks. Feel good that you can save the $$$ needed for SPD.

- Install SPD & be rest assured that you're 99.5% protected. Remaining 0.5% is considered 'An act of God'. A good example will be like buying a medical insurance/ Buy it when you don't need it yet. Buying it only when you need it, well, its just too late....


westom
post Jun 4 2014, 01:37 PM

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QUOTE(GaryLBV @ Jun 4 2014, 08:51 AM)
Well folks, this is where democracy lies. Westom can present a whole 100 volumes on why we don't need SPD.

Helpful would be to read what was posted rather than read what your emotions want to see. Clearly SPDs were repeatedly recommended. But only effective ones from more responsible manufacturers.

How do you write when you cannot read?

paskal
post Jun 5 2014, 08:06 AM

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QUOTE(silent_killer @ Jun 3 2014, 11:05 PM)
care to elaborate why 80 ka is the minimum?
*
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

page 18 and 19, IEEE Guide for Surge Protection of Equipment

that rating is for the service entrance SPD mounted inside your distribution box. not the recommended rating for the equipment level plug point protector as those are rated lower.

later some dumb guy come in and use the rating to discredit cal-lab and those cheap belkin.
QUOTE(liawei @ Jun 4 2014, 12:09 AM)
Ok, I'm so wrong. smile.gif
Go ask TNB what kind of primary protection they have put in for you.
*
erm wait. erm let me see.
erm.. (looking at the DB)
erm.. (looking at the tnb pole)

erm... NONE. wait but what?
but but westom said they tnb already installed for mine.

he's right, so i'm obviously wrong. maybe i'm blind since i can't find it. yes, that must be it.

QUOTE(GaryLBV @ Jun 4 2014, 12:51 PM)
Well folks, this is where democracy lies. Westom can present a whole 100 volumes on why we don't need SPD. The choice is clear,

-Place your trust in a 'professor' who has no practical experience, just a bunch of technical jargon to confuse folks. Feel good that you can save the $$$ needed for SPD.

- Install SPD & be rest assured that you're 99.5% protected. Remaining 0.5% is considered 'An act of God'. A good example will be like buying a medical insurance/ Buy it when you don't need it yet. Buying it only when you need it, well, its just too late....
*
bwahahaha. professor.
more like an art teacher trying to understand the concept of electricity and be all technicaly.

some of us here actually has an EE background.
ozak
post Jun 5 2014, 08:31 AM

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I didn't read the whole thing. Theory vs pratical bla bla bla... rclxub.gif

Anyway just install the damn surge protector if you think it protect.

I've been dealing and solving this surge for more than 10yrs with surge protector. Over some sensitive old electronic equipment. It still have bad news and good news even after install.
westom
post Jun 5 2014, 10:46 AM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Jun 5 2014, 04:06 AM)
but but westom said they tnb already installed for mine.

Please read what is posted. Nobody said tnb installed a protector. Again you read only what you want to believe. An EE need not reread those paragraphs. Since concepts were taught to every first year EE. You do not even understand ground differences. This layman simple concept identifies which protectors protect from destructive surges.

Obvious was what tnb installed. With insufficient EE knowledge, you even confused a protector and protection. And did not even know what impedance is. Any first year EE would know that.

You were asked to reread what you ignored. Define what you understood. And then ask about concepts that confused you. You refused to even do that. It would expose no EE training. So you attack the messenger. Any EE would know why various grounds are electrically different. Would know why different voltages can exist on the same wire. And would immediately grasp why a 'whole house' solution is routine in every structure that cannot have damage. Instead, your disparaging remarks now become cheapshots.

A properly earthed 'whole house' solution is required with or without adjacent protectors. Since protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate. Always. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Fundamental to any reader who asked for effective protection.

Homeowners should also inspect their AC utility installed protection (as described in an earlier post). Do not let naysayers confuse you with cheapshot attacks. And claims devoid of basic EE knowledge (ie no numbers). A protector connected within meters to single point earth ground is the only solution found in every structure that cannot have damage. This best solution is also a least expensive solution.

liawei
post Jun 6 2014, 11:41 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Jun 5 2014, 10:46 AM)
Please read what is posted. Nobody said tnb installed a protector.  Again you read only what you want to believe.  An EE need not reread those paragraphs.  Since concepts were taught to every first year EE.  You do not even understand ground differences.  This layman simple concept identifies which protectors  protect from destructive surges.

Obvious was what tnb installed.  With insufficient EE knowledge, you even confused a protector and protection.  And did not even know what impedance is.  Any first year EE would know that.

You were asked to reread what you ignored.  Define what you understood.  And then ask about concepts that confused you.  You refused to even do that.  It would expose no EE training.  So you attack the messenger.  Any EE would know why various grounds are electrically different.  Would know why different voltages can exist on the same wire.  And would immediately grasp why a 'whole house' solution is routine in every structure that cannot have damage. Instead, your disparaging remarks now become cheapshots.

A properly earthed 'whole house' solution is required with or without adjacent protectors.  Since protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate. Always.  A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Fundamental to any reader who asked for effective protection.

Homeowners should also inspect their AC utility installed protection (as described in an earlier post).  Do not let naysayers confuse you with cheapshot attacks.  And claims devoid of basic EE knowledge (ie no numbers).  A protector connected within meters to single point earth ground is the only solution found in every structure that cannot have damage.  This best solution is also a least expensive solution.
*
Westom, I do appreciate the info you have shared and I'm totally agree with your comments. Just that not many people understand your technical languages.

For the sake of layman readers, may I help you to summarize:

High rating SPD (only those installed in the DB) + good earth (your so called "3 meters rule" or I call it <5ohm) = 99.5% protected.

Agree?
westom
post Jun 7 2014, 10:45 AM

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QUOTE(liawei @ Jun 6 2014, 07:41 PM)
Agree?

That summary does not say what to do. Only says effective protection is about something completely different. Provides nothing for a consumer to act upon. Therefore may remain deceptive.

For example: less than 5 ohms may be insufficient. A 'less than 3 meter' rule is not about low resistance. Protection is about low impedance. That may appear complex, But is so layman simple as to be understood even 100 years ago. Is it too complex because no magic box was recommended? Consumers who all but want to be scammed do not want to know why. They want a magic box recommendation. No magic box will disuss impedance. Meanwhile impedance and resistance are somehow confused. An example that what really matters still remains so new to others. But those reasons why remain necessary.

Some of the layman simple rules. A properly sized protector should be at least 50,000 amps. Every incoming wire from every utility cable must connect low impedance via a protector or directly via a hardwire. That ground must be a single point earth ground. All four words have significance. These rules become simpler once 'reasons why' expose other popular fables. Since effective protection is always about where hudnreds of thousands of joules are harmlessly absorbed. Another simple rule that defines protection.

Another concept is summarized. Size a protector so as to remain functional after many surges. Install earth ground to make the 'system' effective during each surge. Protector is selected for its life expectancy. Earthing defines protection during each surge.

paskal
post Jun 7 2014, 04:38 PM

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Bwahaha. The amount of bull$hit and assumptions in this thread is amusing.
liawei
post Jun 7 2014, 09:53 PM

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Professor likes to make it complicated......
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QUOTE(westom @ Jun 5 2014, 10:46 AM)
...
A protector connected within meters to single point earth ground is the only solution ...
As a layman I couldn't understand above sentence.

Simple question : what should I tell my electrician to install ?

This post has been edited by easywin3: Jun 15 2018, 09:17 AM
clickNsnap
post Apr 5 2019, 12:22 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jun 5 2014, 09:31 AM)
I didn't read the whole thing. Theory vs pratical bla bla bla...  rclxub.gif

Anyway just install the damn surge protector if you think it protect.

I've been dealing and solving this surge for more than 10yrs with surge protector. Over some sensitive old electronic equipment. It still have bad news and good news even after install.
*
Hi Ozak,

Based on your past experience with surge protector, does it really work? I am thinking of "indoor - surge protection device" + "lightning conductor at rooftop and full earthing system"...what do you think?

Thanks in advance!
westom
post Apr 5 2019, 05:07 AM

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QUOTE(clickNsnap @ Apr 4 2019, 08:22 PM)
Based on your past experience with surge protector, does it really work?

Any layman can read specification numbers. A transient that is hundreds or thousand joules is routinely made irrelevant by protection already inside all appliances. How many joules does that "indoor - surge protection device" claim to 'block' or 'absorb'? A transient that will not damage an appliance can also destroy that indoor device. Sometimes even create fires. One need only read that spec number.

Why would anyone spend so much money on such as tiny (near zero joule) device? Hearsay, advertising, wild speculation, and feelings somehow justify a recommendation.

Effective protection always answers this question. Where do hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate? Only informed consumers read many paragraphs to learn what works and why. Any recommendation (for anything) that does not say why and is not tempered by numbers is often a scam.

That is about protection of appliances inside a structure. A lightning strike many blocks down the street is a direct strike incoming to all household appliances. Only a properly earthed 'whole house' solution protects from typically destructive transients.

Protection of the structure means something completely different. "lightning conductor at rooftop and full earthing system". Properly earthed lightning rods do nothing to protect appliances. And properly earthed 'whole house' protection does nothing to protect the structure.

What do both always required to be effective? Earth ground. Earth ground makes a lightning rod effective. Earth ground means a 'whole house' protector is effective. Ben Franklin demonstrated this over 250 years ago. And yet so many still do not get it. Earth ground is where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate. A protector or a lightning rod is only as effective as its earth ground.

No "indoor - surge protection device" has an earth ground connection, will not even discuss it, and does not claim to effectively protect any appliance. But it sure does have an obscene profit margin that pays for a massive advertising program. So it must be better - spec numbers be damned. They said it is better; so it must be better.

This post has been edited by westom: Apr 5 2019, 05:08 AM
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Over dinner with a friend, he told me of lightning strike on lamp post next to him whilst being stationary in a crawl at one portion of the KESAS E37 expressway.

Naturally the shock from the instantaneous thunder report up close after the lightning strike was quite frightful.

The lamp post fried and smoking. I wonder what kind of protection is used for such equipment. Can't imagine a strike taking out the whole stretch of lamps along the highway or what would have happened if say there is a bus stop with ppl taking shelter underneath next to that lamp post.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Apr 5 2019, 02:37 PM
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post Apr 5 2019, 10:22 AM

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If there is a electric cable post outside your house that is supposed to conduct lightning. There should be a small lightning catcher at the top which is connected to the pole support cable. The cable carries the lightning into the ground at the anchor point. Assuming its done properly.
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post Apr 5 2019, 10:31 AM

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QUOTE(clickNsnap @ Apr 5 2019, 12:22 AM)
Hi Ozak,

Based on your past experience with surge protector, does it really work? I am thinking of "indoor - surge protection device" + "lightning conductor at rooftop and full earthing system"...what do you think?

Thanks in advance!
*
You can follow Westom advise. But you have to be rocket science to understand what he said. biggrin.gif

Do not put a "lightning conductor at rooftop". You will extract the lightning strike the rod. Will KFC all your electrical appliances.

Only 3 thing can do.

The important is grounding rod. Plung another grounding rod at the garden side. As deep as possible. Pull the ground wire to the DB. Than another grounding rod behind the house. If you extend the kicthen already, plung it at outside the kitchen. Pull the wire to the nearest wall socket point. Or pull up to the upper floor nearest wall socket. The important point is, have a full grounding for wall socket that too far to be protected.

2nd, change the RCCB in the db box to better wan. Like ABB model FH202 AC-63/0.1 is good.

3rd Install a SPD in the DB. Wire it after RCCB. ABB OVR T2-1N-40-275 P is good.

With all this done, the tripping will reduce alot. My experiene so far like 1-2 trip peryrs from more than a dozen trip.

But without a good grounding, all this device will not work. So pay attention to the grounding 1st.

Won't cost you much. My total spend with DIY is about RM500.




clickNsnap
post Apr 5 2019, 01:56 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Apr 5 2019, 06:07 AM)
Any layman can read specification numbers.  A transient that is hundreds or thousand joules is routinely made irrelevant by protection already inside all appliances.  How many joules does that "indoor - surge protection device" claim to 'block' or 'absorb'?  A transient that will not damage an appliance can also destroy that indoor device.  Sometimes even create fires.  One need only read that spec number.

Why would anyone spend so much money on such as tiny (near zero joule) device?  Hearsay, advertising, wild speculation, and feelings somehow justify a recommendation.

Effective protection always answers this question. Where do hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate? Only informed consumers read many paragraphs to learn what works and why.  Any recommendation (for anything) that does not say why and is not tempered by numbers is often a scam.

That is about protection of appliances inside a structure.   A lightning strike many blocks down the street is a direct strike incoming to all household appliances.  Only a properly earthed 'whole house' solution protects from typically destructive transients.

Protection of the structure means something completely different.  "lightning conductor at rooftop and full earthing system".  Properly earthed lightning rods do nothing to protect appliances.  And properly earthed 'whole house' protection does nothing to protect the structure.

What do both always required to be effective?  Earth ground.  Earth ground makes a lightning rod effective.  Earth ground means a 'whole house' protector is effective.  Ben Franklin demonstrated this over 250 years ago.  And yet so many still do not get it. Earth ground is where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate.  A protector or a lightning rod is only as effective as its earth ground.

No "indoor - surge protection device" has an earth ground connection, will not even discuss it, and does not claim to effectively protect any appliance.  But it sure does have an obscene  profit margin that pays for a massive advertising program.  So it must be better - spec numbers be damned.  They said it is better; so it must be better.
*
Thanks for the details advise, although I am not really 100% understand.

QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 5 2019, 11:31 AM)
You can follow Westom advise. But you have to be rocket science to understand what he said. biggrin.gif

Do not put a "lightning conductor at rooftop". You will extract the lightning strike the rod. Will KFC all your electrical appliances.

Only 3 thing can do.

The important is grounding rod. Plung another grounding rod at the garden side. As deep as possible. Pull the ground wire to the DB. Than another grounding rod behind the house. If you extend the kicthen already, plung it at outside the kitchen. Pull the wire to the nearest wall socket point. Or pull up to the upper floor nearest wall socket. The important point is, have a full grounding for wall socket that too far to be protected.

2nd, change the RCCB in the db box to better wan. Like ABB model FH202 AC-63/0.1 is good.

3rd Install a SPD in the DB. Wire it after RCCB. ABB OVR T2-1N-40-275 P is good.

With all this done, the tripping will reduce alot. My experiene so far like 1-2 trip peryrs from more than a dozen trip.

But without a good grounding, all this device will not work. So pay attention to the grounding 1st.

Won't cost you much. My total spend with DIY is about RM500.
*
Thanks Ozak.

My house installed grounding rod...about 10-12 feet below the ground, it was near the DB area in my last renovation in 2015. But not sure how good is the grounding reading? How can we check ourself?

I received a quote to install a SPD (class 1) and grounding check at about RM1k, SPD (class 2) + groundimg check at around RM500.

I wish I can do DIY like you...cost saving smile.gif

This post has been edited by clickNsnap: Apr 5 2019, 03:22 PM
westom
post Apr 5 2019, 08:58 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 5 2019, 06:31 AM)
Only 3 thing can do.
Anyone who understands what Ben Franklin did can understand what works. The electric current goes from a cloud (ie 3 kilometers up) to earth borne charges (ie 4 kilometers distant). Why is that complicated? Either that electric current makes that 7 kilometer connection inside a building. Or it makes the same connection outside via that earth ground rod. It was always that layman simple - as first explained in primary school science.

Now, how good is that connection. If lightning wants to use the building, then a lightning rod connects it to earth on a path that remains outside the structure. No damage to a structure.

If lightning wants to use appliances inside a building, then a 'whole house' protector connects it to earth on a path that remains outside the structure. No damage to appliances. Why is that so hard?

If a protector's earth ground is not single point earth ground, then one has invited lightning to be inside - destructively via appliances. Multiple earth grounds (ie plung another grounding rod at the garden side) makes appliance damage likely. A surge, incoming on AC utility wires will use the other ground rod to connect to distant earthborne charges. That connection will be destructively through appliances.

No protector does protection. Without a good grounding in earth, the device will not work; will not be effective. Because no protector does protection. This is very hard for people educated by advertising. A plug-in protector does not have that low impedance (ie less than 3 meter) connection to earth. So it does significantly less or no effective protection. And can even make appliance damage easier. A protector must connect low impedance (ie hardwire has no sharp bends) to single point earth ground. To the one and only earth ground electrode that all incoming utility cables connect to.

If any incoming utility cable does not first connect to that same earth ground (ie directly or via a protector), then appliance protection is compromised.

Lightning rods never make lightning strikes more likely. That has always been an urban myth promoted by scammers who promote useless products such as ESE devices. Lightning rods are always implemented everywhere that lightning damage cannot harm a building. That direct strike is going to happen with or without that lightning rod. A building owner decides to let it strike the building or to connect to earth harmlessly via a lightning rod. Only ESE scams and other outright lies deny what lightning rods have done successfully for over 250 years. Connect the inevitable direct lightning strike to earthborne charges on a path that is not destructive.

If any of this is complex, then 1) it is new, and 2) one has not yet read it at least three times. Even a genius never understand something new until after, at least, three rereads. It may take more rereads if one was educated by lies from plug-in protectors, ESE manufacturers, advertising, wild speculation, or hearsay.

Why do we teach what Ben Franklin demonstrated in primary school science? Concepts of lightning protection have alwaus been that simple. However, if educated by lies (ie plug-in protectors), then comprehension is harder. Unlearning those lies (from plug-in protectors or ESE manufacturers) makes learning challenging.

Protection is always about the path a current will take from cloud to earthborne charges. Only a human makes that decision - to either have damage or to connect that current on a path that causes no damage. We know this for both lightning rods and for protectors. Both are only as effective as its earth ground electrode. Facilities that cannot have damage routinely earth hardwire connections or protectors on a low impedance (ie hardwire must not be inside metallic conduit) path to single point earth ground. Anything that does not connect that transient low impedance (ie less than 3 meters) to single point earth ground will never answer the relevant question. Where do hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate? It is only hard when one has been scammed by advertising and myths that promote scams (ie plug-in protectors).

Wall 'power point' safety ground is not, cannot be, and never will be earth ground. Difficult for many to grasp. That wall receptacle safety ground is not and will never be an earth ground. Better is even more electrodes at the same common point. Protectors must have a low impedance (ie less than 3 meter) connection to single point earth ground. Otherwise a protector does nothing useful.

westom
post Apr 5 2019, 09:06 PM

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QUOTE(clickNsnap @ Apr 5 2019, 09:56 AM)
My house installed grounding rod...about 10-12 feet below the ground, it was near the DB area in my last renovation in 2015. But not sure how good is the grounding reading? How can we check ourself? 

How far is the connection from each utility cable to that electrode - either by hardwire or via a protector. If more than 3 meters, then it does human protection and compromises appliance protection.

Does every wire inside every incoming cable connect to that one earth ground rod? If not, then appliance protection has been compromised. An AC utility demonstrates these concepts in good, bad, and ugly (preferred, wrong, and right) solutions at:
https://www.duke-energy.com/energy-educatio...ality/tech-tips
then select Tech Tip 8.

One electrode is usually sufficient. But that is dependent on the soil and other geological features. For example, sand is a poor conductor. So more electrodes are necessary.

Repeated because it is that critical. Each connection to that electrode must be low impedance. Ie less than 3 meters, no splices, not inside metallic conduit, no sharp bends, separated from other non-grounding conductors. Inspection goes a long way into learning what is sufficient.

This post has been edited by westom: Apr 5 2019, 09:07 PM
clickNsnap
post Apr 5 2019, 11:55 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Apr 5 2019, 10:06 PM)
How far is the connection from each utility cable to that electrode - either by hardwire or via a protector.  If more than 3 meters, then it does human protection and compromises appliance protection.

Does every wire inside every incoming cable connect to that one earth ground rod?  If not, then appliance protection has been compromised.  An AC utility demonstrates these concepts in good, bad, and ugly (preferred, wrong, and right) solutions at:
https://www.duke-energy.com/energy-educatio...ality/tech-tips
  then select Tech Tip 8.

One electrode is usually sufficient.  But that is dependent on the soil and other geological features.  For example, sand is a poor conductor.  So more electrodes are necessary.

Repeated because it is that critical.  Each connection to that electrode must be low impedance.  Ie less than 3 meters, no splices, not inside metallic conduit, no sharp bends, separated from other non-grounding conductors.  Inspection goes a long way into learning what is sufficient.
*
Thanks for the info.

I think my house's wires are connected to the DB with ELCB and attached to one earth rod, the rod is about 3-4 meters from the DB.

I am arranging an electrician to install a SPD in the DB, check the quality of earth grounding next week, hope the appointed electrician is well knowledgeable on the power surge protection.

This post has been edited by clickNsnap: Apr 5 2019, 11:57 PM
westom
post Apr 6 2019, 08:13 AM

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QUOTE(clickNsnap @ Apr 5 2019, 07:55 PM)
I think my house's wires are connected to the DB with ELCB and attached to one earth rod, the rod is about 3-4 meters from the DB

Follow that wire from DB to electrode. For example, if it goes up over a foundation and down to an earthing electrode, then protection is compromised. It is unnecessary too long. It has sharp bends over the foundation. And it is best routed away from other non-grounding wires.

Better would also put another electrode maybe somewhere before the original one. Since those are cheap and it would expand and make more conductive that earth ground.

Whether that is necessary is a function of neighborhood history. For example, a transient typically happens once every seven years. Ten or twenty years of neighborhood history would better quantify risk.

Even the ELCB must be protected. Better is to connect an incoming transient to earth so that it does not go through the ELCB. An electrician can better determine what local codes also require.
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post Apr 6 2019, 02:36 PM

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QUOTE(clickNsnap @ Apr 5 2019, 01:56 PM)
Thanks Ozak.

My house installed grounding rod...about 10-12 feet below the ground, it was near the DB area in my last renovation in 2015. But not sure how good is the grounding reading? How can we check ourself?

I received a quote to install a SPD (class 1) and grounding check at about RM1k, SPD (class 2) + groundimg check at around RM500.

I wish I can do DIY like you...cost saving smile.gif
*
Every new house has a ground rod which is a must state in the country electrical rule.

What we do is add an additional ground rod around the house to get fully (or more) protect. An advantage if the developer doesn't do a good job on the ground rod.

I see a very poor job in my house ground rod when I get the house. They just wrap the copper wire around the steel rebar which is not a proper grounding rod. And the wire is 4mm size which is not a proper size.

If your house ground is landfill, the deep might not be enough. It has a high resistance. Plung as deep as possible. The contractor has the earth meter to check the proper grounding. And not in the rainy day to test. Dry earth have higher resistance.

I don't have the equipment to check. Costly. What I can do and check is the resistance wire to the rod by multimeter. Makesure low enough ohm. And a min of 6mm wire size. Rod deep as possible and connection. I solder weld the wire to the rod. The only way to confirm my grounding DIY done a good job is by the 2pcs Belkin surge protector Led light. Now it always light up to tell me the earthing is good.

That RCCB I mention above have a nuisance trip prevention which causes by lightning. It will not easily trip by lightning even it has a sensitivity of 100mA.

SPD doesn't function at all (or limited) without the shortest earth wire to the grounding rod. It has a limited radius length of protection. I forget the wire limited length. Something like 10m-20m. Any wire that longer than this range will require another SPD and nearer earth wire to another grounding rod to get protected.

SPD job is to get the lightning energy (surge voltage) as fast as possible to the grounding rod. If the surge is from the Live and neutral wire. (From TNB if you put in the class 1 SPD). MCB, RCCB or fuse in the DB box don't have the earth wire connection. So if the lightning surge coming from TNB, where will it go to unable it travel to the ground? It have to go through your equipment which have earthing protection. And from your equipment earthing body, travel to the earth wire and last to the ground rod. Which might already damage the equipment.

So don't complain if you put a bunch of SPD and cannot protect. Grounding is still important.
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post Apr 6 2019, 03:01 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Apr 5 2019, 08:58 PM)
Anyone who understands what Ben Franklin did can understand what works.  The electric current goes from a cloud (ie 3 kilometers up) to earth borne charges (ie 4 kilometers distant).  Why is that complicated?  Either that electric current makes that 7 kilometer connection inside a building.  Or it makes the same connection outside via that earth ground rod.  It was always that layman simple - as first explained in primary school science.

Now, how good is that connection.  If lightning wants to use the building, then a lightning rod connects it to earth on a path that remains outside the structure.  No damage to a structure.

If lightning wants to use appliances inside a building, then a 'whole house' protector connects it to earth on a path that remains outside the structure.  No damage to appliances.  Why is that so hard?

If a protector's earth ground is not single point earth ground, then one has invited lightning to be inside - destructively via appliances.  Multiple earth grounds (ie plung another grounding rod at the garden side) makes appliance damage likely.  A surge, incoming on AC utility wires will use the other ground rod to connect to distant earthborne charges.  That connection will be destructively through appliances.

No protector does protection.  Without a good grounding in earth, the device will not work; will not be effective.  Because no protector does protection.  This is very hard for people educated by advertising.  A plug-in protector does not have that low impedance (ie less than 3 meter) connection to earth.  So it does significantly less or no effective protection.  And can even make appliance damage easier.  A protector must connect low impedance (ie hardwire has no sharp bends) to single point earth ground.  To the one and only earth ground electrode that all incoming utility cables connect to.

If any incoming utility cable does not first connect to that same earth ground (ie directly or via a protector), then appliance protection is compromised.

Lightning rods never make lightning strikes more likely.  That has always been an urban myth promoted by scammers who promote useless products such as ESE devices.  Lightning rods are always implemented everywhere that lightning damage cannot harm a building. That direct strike is going to happen with or without that lightning rod.  A building owner decides to let it strike the building or to connect to earth harmlessly via a lightning rod.    Only ESE scams and other outright lies deny what lightning rods have done successfully for over 250 years.  Connect the inevitable direct lightning strike to earthborne charges on a path that is not destructive.

If any of this is complex, then 1) it is new, and 2) one has not yet read it at least three times.  Even a genius never understand something new until after, at least, three rereads.  It may take more rereads if one was educated by lies from plug-in protectors, ESE manufacturers, advertising, wild speculation, or hearsay.

Why do we teach what Ben Franklin demonstrated in primary school science?  Concepts of lightning protection have alwaus been that simple.  However, if educated by lies (ie plug-in protectors), then comprehension is harder.  Unlearning those lies (from plug-in protectors or ESE manufacturers) makes learning challenging.

Protection is always about the path a current will take from cloud to earthborne charges.  Only a human makes that decision - to either have damage or to connect that current on a path that causes no damage.  We know this for both lightning rods and for protectors.  Both are only as effective as its earth ground electrode.  Facilities that cannot have damage routinely earth hardwire connections or protectors on a low impedance (ie hardwire must not be inside metallic conduit) path to single point earth ground.  Anything that does not connect that transient low impedance (ie less than 3 meters) to single point earth ground will never answer the relevant question.  Where do hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate?  It is only hard when one has been scammed by advertising and myths that promote scams (ie plug-in protectors).

Wall 'power point' safety ground is not, cannot be, and never will be earth ground.  Difficult for many to grasp.  That wall receptacle safety ground is not and will never be an earth ground.  Better is even more electrodes at the same common point.  Protectors must have a low impedance (ie less than 3 meter) connection to single point earth ground.  Otherwise a protector does nothing useful.
*
Lightning strike your house is very very rare. But install the rod ontop the house is increase the percentage. Our house here is not a big house. And all the wire is conceal in the wall. If the rod it not enough to take the strong lightning, it will travel all over the house wiring.

If want to install the lightning rod, install a safe distance away from the house. It will like the rod than the house if it prefer to strike.

I have see this problem from a developer container office before. Thing still fried even the rod ontop take the lightning surge to the ground.

My nearer housing area high ground which is all is a banglo house have a very high chance for strike. They place few lightning pole around the area. Not ontop the house roof.
Richard
post Apr 6 2019, 03:54 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 6 2019, 03:01 PM)
Lightning strike your house is very very rare. But install the rod ontop the house is increase the percentage. Our house here is not a big house. And all the wire is conceal in the wall. If the rod it not enough to take the strong lightning, it will travel all over the house wiring.

*
The conventional design for a building lightning protection system is a rolling sphere approach with Franklin rods. The lightning rods at the highest points of the structure connection via 25x3mm2 copper tape straight down the structure to an 16mm dia min earth copper rod to an earth impedance of below 50 Ohm.
Sometimes your electrical supplier can advise you as these are standard JKR building design.

The minimum earth conductor is 10mm2 for a 40 Amp main incoming and 16mm2 for 63Amp mains. For residential design.

You can refer to the attached guidelines or to Malaysian Building By-Law 1984 for confirmation as for me this all was a long time ago.

Hopefully I've uploaded the right attachement but note the Bahasa Malaysia version is the latest and my copy is an old code but should still be applicable.

Best wishes.

This post has been edited by Richard: Apr 6 2019, 04:48 PM


Attached File(s)
Attached File  guidelines_for_electrical_wiring_in_residential_buildings_.pdf ( 427.2k ) Number of downloads: 63
ozak
post Apr 6 2019, 04:11 PM

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QUOTE(Richard @ Apr 6 2019, 03:54 PM)
The conventional design for a building lightning protection system is a rolling sphere approach with Franklin rods. The lightning rods at the highest points of the structure connection via 25x3mm2 copper tape straight down the structure to an 16mm dia min earth copper rod to an earth impedance of below 10 Ohm.
Sometimes your electrical supplier can advise you as these are standard JKR building design.

The minimum earth conductor is 10mm2 for a 40 Amp main incoming and 16mm2 for 63Amp mains. For residential design.

You can refer to the attached guidelines or to Malaysian Building By-Law 1988 for confirmation as  for me this all was a long time ago.

Hopefully I've uploaded the right attachement but note the Bahasa Malaysia version is the latest and my copy is an old code but should still be applicable.

Best wishes.
*
Thanks Richard.

What we want to know is, it is advisable to install the lightning rod ontop of your house roof? Or better away from the house.

A 10mm size earth wire to the grounding rod you mean ? I think many developer failed to do that.
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post Apr 6 2019, 04:29 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 6 2019, 04:11 PM)
Thanks Richard.

What we want to know is, it is advisable to install the lightning rod ontop of your house roof?  Or better away from the house.

A 10mm size earth wire to the grounding rod you mean ? I think many developer failed to do that.
*
Yes, at the highest point and usually the TV and Radio antenna s are directly grounded. You will notice the tape around any government high structures or poles

Lightning protection is via copper tape is 25mnX3mm not 10mm2. The larger size to cater for lightning strike

DB home earthing can be a minimum 10mm2 pvc green wire
The sizing is calculated for the short circuit current
It's an estimate actually

Yes many housing development do not bother as there isn't too many people aware of this code and how to check the DB earth's impedance.

Maybe it's all old school.

Nice to see brother Westom still around. Hahaha

This post has been edited by Richard: Apr 6 2019, 04:42 PM
ozak
post Apr 6 2019, 06:10 PM

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QUOTE(Richard @ Apr 6 2019, 04:29 PM)
Yes, at the highest point and usually the TV and Radio antenna s are directly grounded. You will notice the tape around any government high structures or poles

Lightning protection is via copper tape is 25mnX3mm not 10mm2. The larger size to cater for lightning strike

DB home earthing can be a minimum 10mm2 pvc green wire
The sizing is calculated for the short circuit current
It's an estimate actually 

Yes many housing development do not bother as there isn't too many people aware of this code and how to check the DB earth's impedance.

Maybe it's all old school.

Nice to see brother Westom still around. Hahaha
*
Yup. My parent apartment outside end lot wall have this copper tape running down the building. With a pvc pipe cover at the ground floor wall.

Still fried many equipment during storm.
Richard
post Apr 6 2019, 06:40 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 6 2019, 06:10 PM)
Yup. My parent apartment outside end lot wall have this copper tape running down the building. With a pvc pipe cover at the ground floor wall.

Still fried many equipment during storm.
*
Conventional wisdom is to install an SPD (per DB rated kA or higher) before the DB to dissipate to mass of earth the lightning surge current. However I'm no expert so get a second opinion if you can.

The home DB's earth pit impedance must be as low as possible to maintain shortest path to earth mass. For landed properties only.

I would suspect your parents building earth pits are too high impedance thus the lightning surge randomly hit so many equipment

I would suggest you get a certified electrical contractor to check the structure electrical earthing pit (preferably 10 Ohm or better) system.

Edit* Anyway here's an easy way to check whether your home has good earthing.

Use your multimeter to measure the Voltage between Phase/Earth, if you get the same(or about 5V diff) voltage as between Phase/Neutral then you have good earthing. Fluctuates according to current weather/ground conditions.

Otherwise have your earthing checked by a certified electrician
If only you continually experience damaged equipment due to lightning strikes.
My house earthing is bad (I've checked) but no lightning damaged so I don't bother.

This post has been edited by Richard: Apr 7 2019, 06:47 AM
westom
post Apr 6 2019, 09:13 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 6 2019, 12:11 PM)
What we want to know is, it is advisable to install the lightning rod ontop of your house roof?  Or better away from the house.
A FL house suffered repeat lightning strikes to one wall. So they installed lightning rods. And suffered another strike to that wall.

Lightning is a connection from cloud to distant earthborne charges. That wall contained bathroom (plumbing) pipes that connected to deeper limestone. Lightning rods were connected to 2.4 meter electrodes only in sand. An inferior connection.

Solution. Longer electrodes were driven into that deeper limestone. That lightning rod made a better connection to those distant earthborne charges. That bathroom wall suffered no more strikes.


For protection of appliances or for protection of a structure. It is always defined and about the connection to and quality of earth ground.

BTW, many only use specuation to assume lightning rods with sharp points are better. Research was clear. Blunt rods are more effective than pointed ones.

RoyalGaston
post Apr 8 2019, 07:38 AM

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Too much technical terms for an idiot layman like me. Not sure if this is still LYN or what.

Anyway;

1. Check grounding first (cost +/- RM500)
2. Solve your grounding issue if any. (Don’t know the cost)
3. Install SPD if the grounding is OK for secondary protection. (cost +/- RM500)

That’s all my brain could take.
Hopefully this is correct.
westom
post Apr 8 2019, 08:06 AM

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QUOTE(RoyalGaston @ Apr 8 2019, 03:38 AM)
1. Check grounding first (cost +/- RM500)
2. Solve your grounding issue if any. (Don’t know the cost)
Which ground? That was a major point. Motherboard ground, floating ground, mains ground, receptacle safety ground, chassis ground, virtual ground, analog ground, or static electric ground beneath shoes? All are different.

A relevant ground has at least two words - earth ground. All incoming wires must make a low impedance (ie less than 3 meter) connection to that one and only ground. Why is that hard? (A question that expects an answer because I just do not get it.) A homeowner is responsible for inspecting and maintaining that ground. Just another reason why that ground should not be complex ... if you are the homeowner.

Apparently this is all new. So it will not begin to make sense without at least three rereads. It really is quite simple. How does that current connect to earthborne charges maybe 4 kilometers away without going through any appliance or the structure?

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post Apr 8 2019, 05:22 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Apr 6 2019, 09:13 AM)
Follow that wire from DB to electrode.  For example, if it goes up over a foundation and down to an earthing electrode, then protection is compromised.  It is unnecessary too long.  It has sharp bends over the foundation.  And it is best routed away from other non-grounding wires.

Better would also put another electrode maybe somewhere before the original one.  Since those are cheap and it would expand and make more conductive that earth ground.

Whether that is necessary is a function of neighborhood history.  For example, a transient typically happens once every seven years.  Ten or twenty years of neighborhood history would better quantify risk.

Even the ELCB must be protected.  Better is to connect an incoming transient to earth so that it does not go through the ELCB.  An electrician can better determine what local codes also require.
*
QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 6 2019, 03:36 PM)
Every new house has a ground rod which is a must state in the country electrical rule.

What we do is add an additional ground rod around the house to get fully (or more) protect. An advantage if the developer doesn't do a good job on the ground rod.

I see a very poor job in my house ground rod when I get the house. They just wrap the copper wire around the steel rebar which is not a proper grounding rod. And the wire is 4mm size which is not a proper size.

If your house ground is landfill, the deep might not be enough. It has a high resistance. Plung as deep as possible. The contractor has the earth meter to check the proper grounding. And not in the rainy day to test. Dry earth have higher resistance.

I don't have the equipment to check. Costly. What I can do and check is the resistance wire to the rod by multimeter. Makesure low enough ohm. And a min of 6mm wire size. Rod deep as possible and connection. I solder weld the wire to the rod. The only way to confirm my grounding DIY done a good job is by the 2pcs Belkin surge protector Led light. Now it always light up to tell me the earthing is good.   

That RCCB I mention above have a nuisance trip prevention which causes by lightning. It will not easily trip by lightning even it has a sensitivity of 100mA.

SPD doesn't function at all (or limited) without the shortest earth wire to the grounding rod. It has a limited radius length of protection. I forget the wire limited length. Something like 10m-20m. Any wire that longer than this range will require another SPD and nearer earth wire to another grounding rod to get protected.

SPD job is to get the lightning energy (surge voltage) as fast as possible to the grounding rod. If the surge is from the Live and neutral wire. (From TNB if you put in the class 1 SPD). MCB, RCCB or fuse in the DB box don't have the earth wire connection. So if the lightning surge coming from TNB, where will it go to unable it travel to the ground? It have to go through your equipment which have earthing protection. And from your equipment earthing body, travel to the earth wire and last to the ground rod. Which might already damage the equipment.

So don't complain if you put a bunch of SPD and cannot protect. Grounding is still important.
*
QUOTE(Richard @ Apr 6 2019, 07:40 PM)
Conventional wisdom is to install an SPD (per DB rated kA or higher) before the DB to dissipate to mass of earth the lightning surge current. However I'm no expert so get a second opinion if you can.

The home DB's earth pit impedance must be as low as possible to maintain shortest path to earth mass. For landed properties only.

I would suspect your parents building earth pits are too high impedance thus the lightning surge randomly hit so many equipment

I would suggest you get a certified electrical contractor to check the structure electrical earthing pit (preferably 10 Ohm or better) system.

Edit* Anyway here's an easy way to check whether your home has good earthing.

Use your multimeter to measure the Voltage between Phase/Earth, if you get the same(or about 5V diff) voltage as between Phase/Neutral then you have good earthing. Fluctuates according to current weather/ground conditions.

Otherwise have your earthing checked by a certified electrician
If only you continually experience damaged equipment due to lightning strikes.
My house earthing is bad (I've checked) but no lightning damaged so I don't bother.
*
Thanks for sharing. My electrician is coming to inspect the earth grounding and install SPD tomorrow. Hope all goes well smile.gif

Btw, the earth ground reading should be 10 Ohm or lower, right?

Richard
post Apr 8 2019, 05:41 PM

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QUOTE(clickNsnap @ Apr 8 2019, 05:22 PM)
Thanks for sharing. My electrician is coming to inspect the earth grounding and install SPD tomorrow. Hope all goes well smile.gif

Btw, the earth ground reading should be 10 Ohm or lower, right?
*
Yes

Ask to witness his earth testing method. He must use an earth tester to test your earth rod with a result of 10 Ohm or below

Let him setup his earth tester with a clamp to your earth rod. The remainder voltage/current spikes will be a few metres away.

Witness the 10 Ohm reading on his tester. Done.
.
Easiest way I know to get that reading is to locate your rod next to drain so it's wet most of the time. Anyway that is where I put in my earth rod and chamber. Just sharing.

Edit* Refer 8.2.4 the earth resistance testing method in the ST guidelines.

Attached JKR specs for lightning protection system


This post has been edited by Richard: Apr 9 2019, 06:39 AM


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Attached File  guidelines_for_electrical_wiring_in_residential_buildings_.pdf ( 427.2k ) Number of downloads: 83
Attached File  JKR_LPS_Chap17.pdf ( 885.55k ) Number of downloads: 97
Richard
post Apr 9 2019, 06:55 AM

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Earth impedance value

Transformer Neutral (star) pt and body - 1 Ohm or below

Residential electrical DB earthing pit - 10 Ohm or below

Residential Lightning protection system pit - between 5 to 50 Ohm or below
depending on soil conditions and consultant design.

Problem was some areas almost impossible to get the earth reading due to budget constraints. Needed to explain to the client and design engineer.

This post has been edited by Richard: Apr 9 2019, 07:34 AM


Attached File(s)
Attached File  4346628a_en_EarthGround_tutorial_e__1_.pdf ( 6.88mb ) Number of downloads: 76
westom
post Apr 9 2019, 09:31 AM

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QUOTE(clickNsnap @ Apr 8 2019, 01:22 PM)
  Btw, the earth ground reading should be 10 Ohm or lower, right?
Earth ground would be low ohm resistance. The connection to earth ground must be low ohm impedance. Electrician would not have any equipment to measure impedance. And most probablly do not know what impedance is.

But we make it simple. A low impedance connection is short (ie less than 3 meters), has no sharp bends, is not inside metallic conduit, and has no splices.

Generally, many electrician cannot measure earth ground resistance. So most simply install two electrodes. One is more than sufficient to protect human life. More (sufficiently spaced apart) are necessary to protect appliances.

Rather than measure ground resistance, a decision for earth ground may be determined by geology. Sandy soil needs an enhanced ground. Earth of fine particles that stays moist (therefore is more electrically conductive) means one or two electrodes are probably sufficient.

This post has been edited by westom: Apr 9 2019, 10:58 AM
clickNsnap
post Apr 9 2019, 05:42 PM

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QUOTE(Richard @ Apr 9 2019, 07:55 AM)
Earth impedance value

Transformer Neutral (star) pt and body - 1 Ohm or below

Residential electrical DB earthing pit - 10 Ohm or below

Residential Lightning protection system pit - between 5 to 50 Ohm or below
depending on soil conditions and consultant design.

Problem was some areas almost impossible to get the earth reading due to budget constraints. Needed to explain to the client and design engineer.
*
QUOTE(westom @ Apr 9 2019, 10:31 AM)
Earth ground would be low ohm resistance.  The connection to earth ground must be low ohm impedance.  Electrician would not have any equipment to measure impedance.  And most probablly do not know what impedance is.

But we make it simple.  A low impedance connection is short (ie less than 3 meters), has no sharp bends, is not inside metallic conduit, and has no splices.

Generally, many electrician cannot measure earth ground resistance.  So most simply install two electrodes.  One is more than sufficient to protect human life.  More (sufficiently spaced apart) are necessary to protect appliances.

Rather than measure ground resistance, a decision for earth ground may be determined by geology.  Sandy soil needs an enhanced ground.  Earth of fine particles that stays moist (therefore is more electrically conductive) means one or two electrodes are probably sufficient.
*
Thanks Richard & Westom.

My house installed the SPD and inspect earth grounding today, the SPD is an unknown brand (electrician replace with own company logo), it comes with 3 years warranty. The boss provides prompt reply on my enquiries, the installer did a nice job, the earth grounding reading is 1.3 Ohm... hope all goes well thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by clickNsnap: Apr 11 2019, 12:15 AM


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Momo33
post Jul 27 2020, 01:32 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 6 2019, 07:10 PM)
Yup. My parent apartment outside end lot wall have this copper tape running down the building. With a pvc pipe cover at the ground floor wall.

Still fried many equipment during storm.
*
Need some advice here..on SPD .

I am lookin to install a SPD surge device at the DB box /single phase /63A for my landed house.

What kA rating shall i chose ?

i see in shopee there is 20kA to 120kA choice.
is chosing a 100kA SPD better than 40kA

Thanks..


ozak
post Jul 27 2020, 01:40 PM

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QUOTE(Momo33 @ Jul 27 2020, 01:32 PM)
Need some advice here..on SPD . 

I am lookin to install a SPD  surge device  at the DB box /single phase /63A    for  my landed house.

What kA  rating  shall  i chose ? 

i see in shopee  there is  20kA to 120kA  choice.
is chosing a 100kA  SPD better than  40kA

Thanks..
*
Std is 20ka to 40ka.

It's capacity current it can absorb.

It's better with additional earth rod.
Momo33
post Jul 27 2020, 02:36 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jul 27 2020, 02:40 PM)
Std is 20ka to 40ka.

It's capacity current it can absorb.

It's better with additional earth rod.
*
thanks ..
the price for 60kA and 100kA is about 98rm to 108 rm .
Any issues if i go for higher current capacity .

https://www.lazada.com.my/products/schneide...3660056082.html?


ozak
post Jul 27 2020, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(Momo33 @ Jul 27 2020, 02:36 PM)
thanks  ..
the price  for 60kA  and 100kA  is about  98rm to 108 rm .
Any issues if i go for higher current capacity . 

https://www.lazada.com.my/products/schneide...3660056082.html?
*
Forget already.

It got to do with sensitivity and the placement of the SPDA. Either the type protect the incoming (External) before the MB or protect the internal (after the MB).
Momo33
post Jul 27 2020, 03:11 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jul 27 2020, 03:58 PM)
Forget already.

It got to do with sensitivity and the placement of the SPDA. Either the type protect the incoming (External) before the MB or protect the internal (after the MB).
*
yaa Ok ... me too forgot theory , reading up but still blur ..

these days lots of lightning in KV ,,,hence time to check this out ...

Any power experts can shed some light . Thanks..

from google sweat.gif
KUALA LUMPUR: Subang which lies in the centre of a lightning dense triangle in the Meteorological Department's map for lightning density has one of the highest number of lightning incidences in the world.According to the department, Subang experiences lightning a minimum of 240 days a year.
This translates to between 25 and 40 lightning ground flashes per sq km in the area a year.
Subang resident Teoh Teik Hoong, who runs the community paper SJ Echo, said having his house tripped by lightning and seeing streaks of lightning across the sky was common.



This post has been edited by Momo33: Jul 27 2020, 03:18 PM
babybaby1988
post May 10 2021, 10:48 PM

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is the above a recommended for lightning protection?
SUSceo684
post May 10 2021, 11:09 PM

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QUOTE(babybaby1988 @ May 10 2021, 10:48 PM)


is the above a recommended for lightning protection?
*
Wrong tool for the job. RCD (the test button is giveaway) protect against current imbalance. T2 SPD works in 8/20microseconds.

T2 SPD is always standby 24/7 with nothing to do for the user, no buttons to press, no switches to flip. Only inspect once in awhile there is still enough "life" in the window.

Example of three phase Type 2 SPD:
Attached Image

Whole house Type2 SPD (indirect strike) is usually what you will need.
Proper ones like Hager SPM240E/440E or ABB OVR-T2 or Schneider iPRD is supposed to be installed in the DB box, AFTER whole house MCB and BEFORE whole house RCD.

30 dollar china made unknown brand "toys" may not work well.
Generally, a good T2 SPD for single phase about 200-230 bucks, 3 phase 400-500 bucks

50cm rule of total max cable length apply for installation of T2 SPD.

QUOTE
RCD should only trip if there is an imbalance between the phase and neutral on the circuits/rings that are connected. The only way that it would trip in a thunderstorm were if a surge voltage due to lightning were to be induced on either the phase or neutral thus causing an imbalance. -

per https://www2.theiet.org/forums/forum/messag...&threadid=50221

Further reading on SPD..start with https://www.electrical-installation.org/enw...on_Device_(SPD)

Lots of things to read on SPD. By the time finish reading all, MCO 3 over jor laugh.gif

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 10 2021, 11:22 PM
6942nole
post May 13 2021, 07:00 AM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ May 10 2021, 11:09 PM)
Wrong tool for the job. RCD (the test button is giveaway) protect against current imbalance. T2 SPD works in 8/20microseconds.

T2 SPD is always standby 24/7 with nothing to do for the user, no buttons to press, no switches to flip. Only inspect once in awhile there is still enough "life" in the window.

Example of three phase Type 2 SPD:
Attached Image

Whole house Type2 SPD (indirect strike) is usually what you will need.
Proper ones like Hager SPM240E/440E or ABB OVR-T2 or Schneider iPRD is supposed to be installed in the DB box, AFTER whole house MCB and BEFORE whole house RCD.

30 dollar china made unknown brand "toys" may not work well.
Generally, a good T2 SPD for single phase about 200-230 bucks, 3 phase 400-500 bucks

50cm rule of total max cable length apply for installation of T2 SPD.
per https://www2.theiet.org/forums/forum/messag...&threadid=50221

Further reading on SPD..start with https://www.electrical-installation.org/enw...on_Device_(SPD)

Lots of things to read on SPD. By the time finish reading all, MCO 3 over jor laugh.gif
*
Thanks for sharing....

I looked into it, from JW below, this is just a simple device and should not break a bank.


ReadySteadyGo
post May 30 2021, 02:48 PM

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When I bought my house it was already post renovated and the grounding area outside the house is already overlaid with concrete. How much is it to install a new copper grounding rod?
Zack Styler
post Dec 13 2021, 12:25 AM

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am looking for SPD installation in Penang..is it any electrician can do it?

is this company still exists and recommended?

http://lightningsurgeprotectionmalaysia.com

MacSoSoft P
post Dec 16 2021, 11:58 AM

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my electrician just changed mine to Schneider Electric. previous brand not so sure
SUSceo684
post Dec 17 2021, 03:10 AM

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QUOTE(Zack Styler @ Dec 13 2021, 12:25 AM)
am looking for SPD installation in Penang..is it any electrician can do it?

is this company still exists and recommended?

http://lightningsurgeprotectionmalaysia.com
*
Any electrician should be able to handle it.
Roughly its like this:


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Zack Styler
post Dec 17 2021, 07:29 PM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Dec 17 2021, 03:10 AM)
Any electrician should be able to handle it.
Roughly its like this:
*
thanks..is it for 3 phase DB? for 1 phase is it the same too?


SUSceo684
post Dec 18 2021, 01:02 AM

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QUOTE(Zack Styler @ Dec 17 2021, 07:29 PM)
thanks..is it for 3 phase DB? for 1 phase is it the same too?
*
Yes 3 phase. 1 phase delete L2 and L3.
Max
post Dec 20 2021, 11:56 AM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Dec 17 2021, 03:10 AM)
Any electrician should be able to handle it.
Roughly its like this:
*
regarding the SPD. i see some 10-20kva, 20-40kva, 30-60kva.
which 1 is suitable to use ? any rough calculation need to be done? hmm.gif
1phase, double-storey terrace house.
my house receiving a 250(+-5v) line.
SUSceo684
post Dec 20 2021, 01:57 PM

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QUOTE(Max @ Dec 20 2021, 11:56 AM)
regarding the SPD. i see some 10-20kva, 20-40kva, 30-60kva.
which 1 is suitable to use ? any rough calculation need to be done?  hmm.gif
1phase, double-storey terrace house.
my house receiving a  250(+-5v) line.
*
Single phase buy a 2P 40kA spec "two module width size"
The 4P "four module width size is for three phase"
Do not buy elcheapo one from china.

At minimum, also go for local brand maxguard
https://shopee.com.my/product/15390731/1108027522

Mau cantik ABB OVR T2, Hager SPM240E, Schneider
https://shopee.com.my/product/386581856/13033166073 or official mall https://shopee.com.my/product/403384113/10169243255

https://shopee.com.my/product/226439918/7961546468
https://shopee.com.my/product/311767359/8524543680

All will work fine
Then order RED BLACK GREEN mega kabel loose cut. 1 meter for each colour.
https://shopee.com.my/product/482509406/13428192556 4mm

https://shopee.com.my/product/129202704/5132067326 6mm

4mm or 6mm see SPD model say what size. But 4mm already can use lah..lightning surge is very high voltage and very low current.

Max
post Dec 20 2021, 04:01 PM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Dec 20 2021, 01:57 PM)
Single phase buy a 2P 40kA spec "two module width size"
The 4P "four module width size is for three phase"
Do not buy elcheapo one from china.

At minimum, also go for local brand maxguard
https://shopee.com.my/product/15390731/1108027522

Mau cantik ABB OVR T2, Hager SPM240E, Schneider
https://shopee.com.my/product/386581856/13033166073 or official mall https://shopee.com.my/product/403384113/10169243255

https://shopee.com.my/product/226439918/7961546468
https://shopee.com.my/product/311767359/8524543680

All will work fine
Then order RED BLACK GREEN mega kabel loose cut. 1 meter for each colour.
https://shopee.com.my/product/482509406/13428192556 4mm

https://shopee.com.my/product/129202704/5132067326 6mm

4mm or 6mm see SPD model say what size. But 4mm already can use lah..lightning surge is very high voltage and very low current.
*
thank u for the information.. thumbsup.gif
IMF2025
post Dec 20 2021, 10:55 PM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Dec 20 2021, 01:57 PM)
Single phase buy a 2P 40kA spec "two module width size"
The 4P "four module width size is for three phase"
Do not buy elcheapo one from china.

At minimum, also go for local brand maxguard
https://shopee.com.my/product/15390731/1108027522

Mau cantik ABB OVR T2, Hager SPM240E, Schneider
https://shopee.com.my/product/386581856/13033166073 or official mall https://shopee.com.my/product/403384113/10169243255

https://shopee.com.my/product/226439918/7961546468
https://shopee.com.my/product/311767359/8524543680

All will work fine
Then order RED BLACK GREEN mega kabel loose cut. 1 meter for each colour.
https://shopee.com.my/product/482509406/13428192556 4mm

https://shopee.com.my/product/129202704/5132067326 6mm

4mm or 6mm see SPD model say what size. But 4mm already can use lah..lightning surge is very high voltage and very low current.
*
Hello sifu, current set up I don’t have SPD, but if wanna add this device can just add-on? Any rewiring works needed? Could you pls explain to me the process of adding such a device pls ? Thank you!
SUSceo684
post Dec 20 2021, 11:41 PM

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QUOTE(IMF2025 @ Dec 20 2021, 10:55 PM)
Hello sifu, current set up I don’t have SPD, but if wanna add this device can just add-on? Any rewiring works needed? Could you pls explain to me the process of adding such a device pls ? Thank you!
*
It adds on in the main DB box. Refer 3:11 for the general diagram https://youtu.be/oa_a4HTVqoQ?t=191

Depending on what supply (1 phase or 3 phase), you need some room in the DB box (of either 2 modules width, or 4 modules width).
To create room, this may require moving around some MCB's; or if the DB box is full, a new bigger box preferably with similar layout need to be installed.

Similar layout meaning if currently u are using a 12x2 row (24 slot)
----------
----------

expand to something like a 16x2 row (or 16x3 row).
-------------
-------------

If you expand to a 27x 1 row format
------------------------------

yes, it give u 3 more slots space as 27>24
but the problem is I dont think your existing wiring lengths can stretchhhhh that much (mostly it is just nice only, no slack).
Hence if its 12x2 row in the beginning then u need to get something that follows along the same format as the old box.

The SPD still need a bit of kung fu to do properly although its install location is confined to within the DB box.
Technically the connection is the easy part but that's assuming the customer DB box has sufficient space else need to upgrade bigger box and/or remove unused MCB to fit and move out existing MCB as the "wong wai" is closest possible to the main MCB [50cm max = shortest bestest].

https://library.e.abb.com/public/76853add5a...olutions_EN.pdf
pages 19, 21, 22, 23, 30 (see TNS/TT system diagram, Malaysia use TT).


Back-up protection dedicated to the SPD = At bare minimum, SPD must be behind at least the main MCB (for indirect strike/T2).

It is recommended to have another MCB dedicated just for the SPD alone (whilst the main MCB will take care of shorts, but additional one MCB still not expensive to implement) in case the SPD totally failed due to damage (and created a short circuit) after kena too many strikes.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 21 2021, 12:31 AM
Max
post Dec 22 2021, 10:12 AM

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My SmartLife extension plug 'sacrifice itself' after some midnight thunderstorm.. even Main mcb and rccb also trip.. sweat.gif
power for Tv, Speaker and Fire Cube - all saved.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


WhitE LighteR
post Dec 22 2021, 10:31 AM

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QUOTE(Max @ Dec 22 2021, 10:12 AM)
My SmartLife extension plug 'sacrifice itself' after some midnight thunderstorm.. even Main mcb and rccb also trip..  sweat.gif
power for Tv, Speaker and Fire Cube - all saved.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
amen thumbup.gif
IMF2025
post Jan 3 2022, 09:32 AM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Dec 20 2021, 11:41 PM)
It adds on in the main DB box. Refer 3:11 for the general diagram https://youtu.be/oa_a4HTVqoQ?t=191

Depending on what supply (1 phase or 3 phase), you need some room in the DB box (of either 2 modules width, or 4 modules width).
To create room, this may require moving around some MCB's; or if the DB box is full, a new bigger box preferably with similar layout need to be installed.

Similar layout meaning if currently u are using a 12x2 row (24 slot)
----------
----------

expand to something like a 16x2 row (or 16x3 row).
-------------
-------------

If you expand to a 27x 1 row format
------------------------------

yes,  it give u 3 more slots space as 27>24
but the problem is I dont think your existing wiring lengths can stretchhhhh that much (mostly it is just nice only, no slack).
Hence if its 12x2 row in the beginning then u need to get something that follows along the same format as the old box.

The SPD still need a bit of kung fu to do properly although its install location is confined to within the DB box.
Technically the connection is the easy part but that's assuming the customer DB box has sufficient space else need to upgrade bigger box and/or remove unused MCB to fit and move out existing MCB as the "wong wai" is closest possible to the main MCB [50cm max = shortest bestest].

https://library.e.abb.com/public/76853add5a...olutions_EN.pdf
pages 19, 21, 22, 23, 30 (see TNS/TT system diagram, Malaysia use TT).
Back-up protection dedicated to the SPD = At bare minimum, SPD must be behind at least the main MCB (for indirect strike/T2).

It is recommended to have another MCB dedicated just for the SPD alone (whilst the main MCB will take care of shorts, but additional one MCB still not expensive to implement) in case the SPD totally failed due to damage (and created a short circuit) after kena too many strikes.
*
After reading up on SPD it seems like it’s recommended especially if your house is on a high point and just last month have experienced quite large Lightnings around the area. Spoke to my Electricient and he said that no many people install SPD in Msia and that it might not help much. Not sure why, got me confused. Good quality/brand SPDs are not cheap. I understand if kena direct strike it won’t 100% guarantee safety, in fact SPDs are not meant to protect from direct hits. Best is still lightning rod but I got no budget for that.

Any advice if it’s worth it or not ? Thanks!

Momo33
post Jan 3 2022, 10:03 AM

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QUOTE(IMF2025 @ Jan 3 2022, 10:32 AM)
After reading up on SPD it seems like it’s recommended especially if your house is on a high point and just last month have experienced quite large Lightnings around the area. Spoke to my Electricient and he said that no many people install SPD in Msia and that it might not help much. Not sure why, got me confused. Good quality/brand SPDs are not cheap.  I understand if kena direct strike it won’t 100% guarantee safety, in fact SPDs are not meant to protect from direct hits. Best is still lightning rod but I got no budget for that.

Any advice if it’s worth it or not ? Thanks!
*
Look at MAX s posting about his power strip burnt . possible his TV would have blown if he didnt have a surge protector .

Lightning /Power surges are always happening on your power lines hence you need
add a layer of surge protection to safe guard your TV , routers etc...

1 phase SPD for whole house protection cost about 200rm . is cheap lah ... vs a burnt TV .

Direct hit on house is rare . Lighting rods are for direct hit.
SPD T2 are for suppression of power surge on the Line . which is more common happening.
Power strips like Belkins are SPD type 3 , easy to use , most are less than 5kA protection.

some statement not true.
After reading up on SPD it seems like it’s recommended especially if your house is on a high point

my answer . where ever the Lightning hits high point any anypoint ... the power surge gets into the tnb power lines and get into houses within that area . the surge is typical in about 20kA .
1 direct Lightning hits 1 house but the power surge can hit 500 houses in that area.

the mention electrician need to go back to School . nod.gif


This post has been edited by Momo33: Jan 3 2022, 10:34 AM
IMF2025
post Jan 3 2022, 10:40 AM

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QUOTE(Momo33 @ Jan 3 2022, 10:03 AM)
Look at MAX s posting about his  power strip burnt .  possible his TV would have blown if he didnt have a  surge protector .

Lightning /Power surges  are always happening on your power lines hence you need
add  a layer of  surge protection to safe guard  your TV , routers  etc...

1 phase SPD  cost about 200rm .  is cheap lah ...  vs  a burnt TV .

Direct hit on house is rare .  Lighting rods  are for direct hit.
SPD T2  are for suppression  of power surge  on the Line . which is  more common happening.
Power strips like Belkins  are SPD type 3 ,    easy to use  , most are less than 5kA protection.

some statement not true.
After reading up on SPD it seems like it’s recommended especially if your house is on a high point

my answer .    where ever the Lightning hits  high point  any  anypoint ...  the  power surge  gets into the tnb power lines  and  get  into houses  within that area .  the surge is typical in about 20kA  .
1 direct Lightning hits  1 house  but the  power surge  can hit  500 houses in that area. 

the mention electrician  need to go back to School .  nod.gif
*
thanks for the explanation and agree with you on the cost of SPDs vs potential damage. Btw 3 phase it’s 450-500 for SPD. Yes I also have adaptor surge protectors. Was thinking to have two lines of Defence for sensativr appliances and the whole house SPD for fridge, ovens, lights, all other devices etc.

The other thing I’m quite confused about is the “kA” rating. Is a 40kA whole house SPD ok?
Momo33
post Jan 3 2022, 11:53 AM

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QUOTE(IMF2025 @ Jan 3 2022, 11:40 AM)
thanks for the explanation and agree with you on the cost of SPDs vs potential damage. Btw 3 phase it’s 450-500 for SPD. Yes I also have adaptor surge protectors. Was thinking to have two lines of Defence for sensativr appliances and the whole house SPD for fridge, ovens, lights, all other devices etc.

The other thing I’m quite confused about is the “kA” rating. Is a 40kA whole house SPD ok?
*
yes 40 kA is fine. mean it can handle peak 40kA current in a surge condition / microseconds.
the clamp voltage is important . lower the better .

look for the ones with a status window. if it goes dead the window will turn red. so need to change or replace the module. my guess is about 10 years life unless you get a really big surge.



Max
post Jan 3 2022, 08:19 PM

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After reading some info, diy .. etc..
I bought some MOV Varistors (14D471) and soldered them inside my another replacement extension plugs.
Replaced with 5A fuse in the main plug.

Hopefully it will 'work' if got strike.. 😅
Mov have lifetime.. the more it received surge/spike, even in normal use, it will shortens its life..

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Momo33
post Jan 4 2022, 03:14 AM

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QUOTE(Max @ Jan 3 2022, 09:19 PM)
After reading some info, diy .. etc..
I bought some MOV Varistors (14D471) and soldered them inside my another replacement extension plugs.
Replaced with 5A fuse in the main plug.

Hopefully it will 'work' if got strike.. 😅
Mov have lifetime.. the more it received surge/spike, even in normal use, it will shortens its life..

oh good idea. thumbsup.gif
I want to try

can you comment/ check this data if suitable for as like your application . TQ

https://shopee.com.my/Varistor-Metal-Oxide-...087.10322710509


This post has been edited by Momo33: Jan 4 2022, 03:20 AM
Max
post Jan 4 2022, 11:46 AM

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QUOTE(Momo33 @ Jan 4 2022, 03:14 AM)
oh  good idea.  :thumbsup:
  I want to try 

can you comment/ check  this data  if  suitable for as like your application  . TQ

https://shopee.com.my/Varistor-Metal-Oxide-...087.10322710509
*
Should be ok.
Overal its all generic mov.
Saw its from sabah, u in sabah?

Im using this one.
https://shopee.com.my/product/135112285/104...53-1641267822.9

Also bought the generic cheaper blue one.
Momo33
post Jan 4 2022, 01:31 PM

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QUOTE(Max @ Jan 4 2022, 12:46 PM)
Should be ok.
Overal its all generic mov.
Saw its from sabah, u in sabah?

Im using this one.
https://shopee.com.my/product/135112285/104...53-1641267822.9

Also bought the generic cheaper blue one.
*
I am from Subang J. KV. nod.gif

i select that 1 cos the advert has spec details that i feel are good. The other with no specs normally i skip.

Type: Metal Oxide Varistor (MOV)
Manufacturer: Nippon Chemi-con
Part Number: TNR12V471K
Element Diameter : 12MM
Max. Allowable Voltage: AC 300Vrms / DC 385V
Max. Peak Current: 4,200A @20µs
Max. Energy: 60J @2ms
Rated Wattage: 0.4W
Max Clamping Voltage: 775V @ 25A
Capacitance Typical : 345pF @1kHz
Varistor Voltage V1mA: 470V (423 ~ 517)V , ±10%

now after search again i saw this , and have chat the seller who is manufacturer as the datasheet link show many .
https://shopee.com.my/1pcs-Varistor-05D471K...1804.6578019841



Max
post Jan 4 2022, 02:46 PM

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QUOTE(Momo33 @ Jan 4 2022, 01:31 PM)
I am from  Subang J.  KV.  nod.gif

i select that 1 cos  the advert  has spec details  that i feel are good.  The other  with no specs normally  i skip.

Type: Metal Oxide Varistor (MOV)
Manufacturer: Nippon Chemi-con
Part Number: TNR12V471K
Element Diameter : 12MM
Max. Allowable Voltage: AC 300Vrms / DC 385V
Max. Peak Current: 4,200A @20µs
Max. Energy: 60J @2ms
Rated Wattage: 0.4W
Max Clamping Voltage: 775V @ 25A
Capacitance Typical : 345pF @1kHz
Varistor Voltage V1mA: 470V (423 ~ 517)V , ±10%

now after search again  i  saw this ,  and have  chat the seller  who is  manufacturer  as the  datasheet link show many .
https://shopee.com.my/1pcs-Varistor-05D471K...1804.6578019841
*
Should be ok as long as from reputable elektronik component manufacturer.. or with 'electrical standard'
IMF2025
post Jan 18 2022, 11:13 AM

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QUOTE(Momo33 @ Jan 3 2022, 11:53 AM)
yes 40 kA  is  fine.    mean it can handle  peak 40kA  current  in a surge condition / microseconds.
the clamp voltage is important . lower the better .

look for the ones  with  a  status window.  if it goes dead  the window will turn red. so need to change or replace the module.  my guess is  about 10 years life  unless you get a really big surge.
*
ive been reading up and trying to find out whats the difference between installing a type 2 SPD upstream vs downstream of the RCD/RCCB. Could anyone explain this to me? I understand that typically SPDs are suppose to be installed between the main CB and RCD/RCCB. Is it considered wrong to install it downstream of an RCD/RCCB? what happens when its install downstream, does it provide the necessary protection?


havent been able to find alot of info on this.
Momo33
post Jan 18 2022, 12:53 PM

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QUOTE(IMF2025 @ Jan 18 2022, 12:13 PM)
ive been reading up and trying to find out whats the difference between installing a type 2 SPD upstream vs downstream of the RCD/RCCB. Could anyone explain this to me? I understand that typically SPDs are suppose to be installed between the main CB and RCD/RCCB. Is it considered wrong to install it downstream of an RCD/RCCB? what happens when its install downstream, does it provide the necessary protection?
havent been able to find alot of info on this.
*
the recommended is between the tnb main fuse and the RCCB .
but do follow the manufacturer install guide that comes when you buy 1.

the SPD clamps the surge and bring the surge currents to ground .
this is to avoid RCCB tripping or at least minimize the trips. . if you place it before the RCCD.

if placed downstream the SPD will still function plus for sure the RCCB will also trip.

the SPD response is faster in microsec due to fully electronics compare to RCCB has relay/ slower response.


SUSceo684
post Jan 18 2022, 01:58 PM

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QUOTE(IMF2025 @ Jan 18 2022, 11:13 AM)
ive been reading up and trying to find out whats the difference between installing a type 2 SPD upstream vs downstream of the RCD/RCCB. Could anyone explain this to me? I understand that typically SPDs are suppose to be installed between the main CB and RCD/RCCB. Is it considered wrong to install it downstream of an RCD/RCCB? what happens when its install downstream, does it provide the necessary protection?
havent been able to find alot of info on this.
*
ABB, Hager, Eaton got publish a lot of SPD literature.
Basically ensure the SPD is downstream of an MCB in case it short open.
SPD put upstream of RCD because you want to shunt off the excess power. The RCD may be damaged if RCD upstream of SPD.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jan 18 2022, 01:59 PM
IMF2025
post Jan 19 2022, 12:11 PM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Jan 18 2022, 01:58 PM)
The RCD may be damaged if RCD upstream of SPD.
*
for this, SPD will still function as usual and provide protection to all plugs and appliances etc right? understand that RCD could be damanged so long as everything after RCD is safe.
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post Jan 19 2022, 09:31 PM

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QUOTE(IMF2025 @ Jan 19 2022, 12:11 PM)
for this, SPD will still function as usual and provide protection to all plugs and appliances etc right? understand that RCD could be damanged so long as everything after RCD is safe.
*
Based on ST literature

Therefore, the following is recommended:
1. In general, to install SPDs upstream of RCDs (RCDs installed
upstream of SPDs may operate on the expected surge currents);
2. If SPDs are installed downstream of RCDs, the expected surge
currents to earth should not exceed the immunity value of the RCD.

Based on Hager literature

Should RCD’s be required in the installation as additional
protection or to ensure the requirements of fault protection
are satisfied, then the SPD will need to be installed upstream
of the RCD. Where this cannot be avoided, the RCD should
be of the time-delayed or S-type.

I think it is best to follow the experts rather than experimenting because usual RCD type AC is instant trip, we don't use S type or time delayed in residential
IMF2025
post Jan 19 2022, 10:37 PM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Jan 19 2022, 09:31 PM)
Based on ST literature

Therefore, the following is recommended:
1. In general, to install SPDs upstream of RCDs (RCDs installed
upstream of SPDs may operate on the expected surge currents);
2. If SPDs are installed downstream of RCDs, the expected surge
currents to earth should not exceed the immunity value of the RCD.

Based on Hager literature

Should RCD’s be required in the installation as additional
protection or to ensure the requirements of fault protection
are satisfied, then the SPD will need to be installed upstream
of the RCD. Where this cannot be avoided, the RCD should
be of the time-delayed or S-type.

I think it is best to follow the experts rather than experimenting because usual RCD type AC is instant trip, we don't use S type or time delayed in residential
*
Thank you. Very complicated haha

fishermanG
post Feb 22 2022, 11:59 PM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Dec 20 2021, 11:41 PM)
It adds on in the main DB box. Refer 3:11 for the general diagram https://youtu.be/oa_a4HTVqoQ?t=191

Depending on what supply (1 phase or 3 phase), you need some room in the DB box (of either 2 modules width, or 4 modules width).
To create room, this may require moving around some MCB's; or if the DB box is full, a new bigger box preferably with similar layout need to be installed.

Similar layout meaning if currently u are using a 12x2 row (24 slot)
----------
----------

expand to something like a 16x2 row (or 16x3 row).
-------------
-------------

If you expand to a 27x 1 row format
------------------------------

yes,  it give u 3 more slots space as 27>24
but the problem is I dont think your existing wiring lengths can stretchhhhh that much (mostly it is just nice only, no slack).
Hence if its 12x2 row in the beginning then u need to get something that follows along the same format as the old box.

The SPD still need a bit of kung fu to do properly although its install location is confined to within the DB box.
Technically the connection is the easy part but that's assuming the customer DB box has sufficient space else need to upgrade bigger box and/or remove unused MCB to fit and move out existing MCB as the "wong wai" is closest possible to the main MCB [50cm max = shortest bestest].

https://library.e.abb.com/public/76853add5a...olutions_EN.pdf
pages 19, 21, 22, 23, 30 (see TNS/TT system diagram, Malaysia use TT).
Back-up protection dedicated to the SPD = At bare minimum, SPD must be behind at least the main MCB (for indirect strike/T2).

It is recommended to have another MCB dedicated just for the SPD alone (whilst the main MCB will take care of shorts, but additional one MCB still not expensive to implement) in case the SPD totally failed due to damage (and created a short circuit) after kena too many strikes.
*
Thanks for the info.

My DB doesn't have enough space to install another 4P SDP. If I pull all the 4 wires (3L + N) from (after the main MCB but before the RCCB) out of the main DB, into another small db box so I can install a new MCB (dedicated for SDP)+ the 4P SPD, does the 50cm rule apply from where I pull the 4 cables out, or from the 2nd MCB?

Saw these on Shopee; will this work? The length of those cables (3L + N + E) definitely exceeds 50cm already, unless you measure from that 2nd MCB on the right

user posted image

user posted image

This post has been edited by fishermanG: Mar 19 2022, 09:22 PM
SUSceo684
post Feb 23 2022, 03:11 AM

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QUOTE(fishermanG @ Feb 22 2022, 11:59 PM)
Thanks for the info.

My DB doesn't have enough space to install another 4P SDP. If I pull all the 4 wires (3L + N) from (after the main MCB but before the RCCB) out of the main DB, into another small db box so I can install a new MCB (dedicated for SDP)+ the 4P RCCB, does the 50cm rule apply from where I pull the 4 cables out, or from the 2nd MCB?

Saw these on Shopee; will this work? The length of those cables (3L + N + E) definitely exceeds 50cm already, unless you measure from that 2nd MCB on the right

user posted image

user posted image
*
Well FWIW, think I better place my trust in SPD mfgs who have a test lab to simulate lightning arcs..than someone selling on shopee.
Its kind of a rule for proper SPD installation, else they wouldn't bother to state the total length <50cm all over.
refer https://www.beama.org.uk/asset/1FE338CE-496...37F3DEA6C683C6/ page 53 onwards

How about replacing the DB box with a bigger one? Let's see what's the current configuration (share pic) first.
WhitE LighteR
post Feb 23 2022, 12:47 PM

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QUOTE(fishermanG @ Feb 22 2022, 11:59 PM)
Thanks for the info.

My DB doesn't have enough space to install another 4P SDP. If I pull all the 4 wires (3L + N) from (after the main MCB but before the RCCB) out of the main DB, into another small db box so I can install a new MCB (dedicated for SDP)+ the 4P RCCB, does the 50cm rule apply from where I pull the 4 cables out, or from the 2nd MCB?

Saw these on Shopee; will this work? The length of those cables (3L + N + E) definitely exceeds 50cm already, unless you measure from that 2nd MCB on the right

user posted image

user posted image
*
wow. so neat wiring. really ocd wireman. thumbup.gif
fishermanG
post Mar 18 2022, 07:08 PM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Feb 23 2022, 03:11 AM)
Well FWIW, think I better place my trust in SPD mfgs who have a test lab to simulate lightning arcs..than someone selling on shopee.
Its kind of a rule for proper SPD installation, else they wouldn't bother to state the total length <50cm all over.
refer https://www.beama.org.uk/asset/1FE338CE-496...37F3DEA6C683C6/ page 53 onwards

How about replacing the DB box with a bigger one? Let's see what's the current configuration (share pic) first.
*
user posted image

Was thinking of replacing it with a bigger metal clad one but unsure about the cost for upgrading the db box.

Had a huge lightning strike couple days ago - kitchen hood's board fried, couple ceiling LEDs fried.

Just bought this 3+1N T2 SPD from Saltek (FL Group is the distributor) for RM225. Czech brand, a company that specialises in SPD. I guess this is probably better than some SPD from Shopee. ABB/Hager is out of my budget. To my surprise, this is one of the few SPDs I found available in MY to have Uc of 275V, EPS has 420V, Maxguard has 340V, Scheinder 350V. Only the expensive ones like ABB/Hager has 275v. :s

user posted image
user posted image

I think for now, I will probably get this SPD and a dedicated MCB for this installed in a 10way DB box adjacent to it, feeding the incoming from the main MCB (before the RCCB). And, also gonna add an intermediate earth terminal block at the db box to keep it less than 50cm. All cables are of 4mm thickness.

This post has been edited by fishermanG: Mar 18 2022, 07:22 PM
yeefung
post Nov 4 2024, 02:31 PM

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I am replacing tiles of my car porch and my earthing chamber is at car porch and not shielded. My contractor is suggesting to put a floor trap above the chamber instead of fully covered with tiles. I thought it would be better to waterproof the chamber by just installing tiles on it and covered it. If touch wood access to chamber is needed, no choice but hack the tiles.

Appreciate comments. Thanks.

 

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