I already browse about a dozen site(including link in first page) about engine break in but i still confuse. Some site say to varies the RPM and use high RPM or full throttle yet they discourage hill climbing or carry pillion.Some recommend 1000KM break in yet some only 60KM after the seal is break in. Can someone create a simple of do and don't list?.It's very hard to follow the conflicting advice.Mototuneusa.com have the most comprehensive explanation about break in yet their break in method is not properly explain.

I hope you guys don't find me annoying as a new member and ask so many question.I already save more than a year and even didn't use my bonus this just to buy this bike.This is also my only asset that worth more than a thousand alone so this is going to be my precious.
Is the bike manual work like a car manual?. With manual car,when you release half the clutch,only half of the power is available and the rest is like high revving.Is it the same with motorcycle?.

new engine oil route for jack rod

How much the cost for 1st road tax n insurance renewal for lc135?

Was quoted rm368 by P & O. I feel its too expensive.

That is the cheapest bike insurance IINM. Try lower the insured amount? Or request quote from others. Your NCD should be still quite low?

How much the cost for 1st road tax n insurance renewal for lc135?

Was quoted rm368 by P & O. I feel its too expensive.

1st year renewal bro so still 0%.

Can use myeg to renew motorbike insurance?

I consider before to just rebuilt my wave but figure it would cause more than a thousand
-mileage already 991++ so definitely need to over haul with clutch pad and timing chain also damage
-Cover whole set with sticker and meter need to change(plastic now very goyang)
-Need to rewiring due to wiring
-Due to one time(first time in 4 years) accident that also lift up the back tyre,the steering navigation a little weird and feel no balance so need to fix
-Need to switch to sport rim to use tubeless tyre
-Front fork need to change because it seem to hit bottom when hard breaking
-Battery damage
I consider FZ before but at RM8+++ and no OTR price yet it is too expensive.Also with 150cc and naked design(no aerodynamic air flow) it would be oil guzzler plus the fuel injection sysyem is going to be EXPENSIVE should it broken unlike carburetor.

So is the 135lc is just like other bike like honda wave etc.Is the monoshock didn't give any improvement.I am speed demon so bike balance,stability,vibration is very important.It seem 135LC also have better aerodynamic look from the cover.

Maybe i should consider suzuki belang.It seems to be only bike better than LC.Just unforunately without manual clutch.

Still month to decide 135LC ES or Suzuki belang

Again, i know my sentences look like arguing but i'm not.No offence

thianz+1 for you. So high mileage the owner want to abandon the bike.

I think the insurance calculator is no longer accurate.The government no longer control the insurance market and it is now liberal so now the price will be determine by the insurance company if not mistaken.Expect the insurance  price to increase.Hope that currently crowded insurance company could at least control the increase.

Wave lack speed and power and stability.When cover(mud guard below side) goyang,motor also goyang.Sekarang mau corner pun takut.Even 0-100 take 30 second and barely reach 110 though when accelerate from traffic light not many can beat me .When i know it going to turn green,i'll rev the engine and press the break then release when turn green.Give me slight advantage and feel like riding clutch car
That's why want to test drive first.Belang handle seems to be quite low ,like a bike my abang ipar rode 20years ago with "pop pro pop pop pop" sound.Even want to test LC but Yamaha told me to ask dealer which i doubt the dealer will have this service.They didn't even reply my email about price inquiry.

You are right but I never heard any motorcycle shop that have test drive. At shop I just usually inquiry the price.

To be honest, wave does serve me well. A 2006 bike and I bought it on 2014. In 4 years I never change anything, never service anything. All I can remember changing engine related is sprocket twice, spark plug head once and CDI once. That's all. In first 2 years I know little about bike and I mistakenly use oil with wrong API which is SH when minimum is SJ. That time also change also oil around 1 1/2 month instead of mileage. I guess that takes a toll on engine.

As long as can jalan, I didn't bother to have the fork check. After all already want to switch bike so don't want to waste any more money. The accident is just a few months ago.

At forth gear at high speed sometimes the bike rev suddenly and it's hard to change gear instead of "chi chak" something "chi chak chak". Mostly from first to second gear. Mechanics says timing chain issue and probably clutch, price quoted RM1++ to RM2++. The wiring is a mess and burn wire and a lot bypass is done just to make sure it works. Cover is over RM2++and that doesn't include sticker which is RM1++.Ask a few shop and it's around same price.