u belum tau .... mineral is more gooding thn fully yyet .....

pls dun full throttle ..... all the way ....... and pls pour 1L straight into engine .. dun kedekut 850ml ........ rmb stop at R&R for a break .... sayang ur bike = sayang ur wallet ....

EO still so clean need to change??

or this is for the first time only?

The maintenance schedule is in there. Refer to that.

demons88That's the AX5. It's good for the purpose.

OTR 7.5k baught at Kajang Sg.Chua Sing Motor. Picture as post above entry #845~
i always like to drive Clutch becoz i can control when the power should come and when its not, i know that auto clutch can doo that as well by stepping on the gear lever, but prefer hand clutch more, and its 5 speed. and rear disc brake... so far so good, just arrive here from kajang to midvalley, roughly 30km+ ride.


i am still in break-in process so avoiding fully syn for now until 5000km as recommend by alexei.


Thanks~ i thought so, becoz my bengkel very kedekut one only got shell and motul. do not want to sell other EO dont know why.

This post has been edited by demons88: Feb 28 2015, 12:54 PM

Hi-rev 632 is the only one at 10W-30 in that brand.
Even mineral oil doesn't mean it needs to be changed that regularly, 3000km is fine. 5000km if the bike regularly goes long distance and runs hot frequently.

When you get ur bike, try full throttle on highway and let us know how long per tank goes. See if u can beat my RGV, 280km @ 5 liter.

not becoz kedekut ......
1.mayb the shop dun want pening ..... sell those laku brand enough
2.mayb the brand salesman tarak bagi " kang tau " harga tarak cantek , credit term too short .. mostly dun want ...


changing every 1000km bukan kedekut .. cuma sedikit bazir jer ..... just check the EO level weekly ..... becoz new bike nowaday EO cepat kering .. i duno why ...

Alhamdulillah, finish overhaul before night come. But need berkorban a lot on $$$$. But satisfied. But sad a bit. but fell happy. But but but T.T










This post has been edited by deining: Feb 28 2015, 09:35 PM

deiningwhat did you have to fix?
babylongreece100R service at 1000km? Seriously?

Found a dumb video, someone test top speed of 150R. Reach 180kmh GPS speed with superman.



This post has been edited by alexei: Mar 2 2015, 09:45 AM

Fix and change:
-rod
-piston
-clutch sho (as you can see, already makan besi)
-all clutch part
(all standard)
Additional:
-fz block ori

Btw guys got advice for me? As guy 1st time overhaul moto that been use 6/5 years on my Lc135

Hehe

takde fairing .... patutlah 180km/h jer

jgn gatal pergi sentuh sentuh ...... std cukup ....

Again, show some proof or reference of CR 10.9 needing RON100 other wise this is not a valid discussion.

u isi ron 95 , 97 .. both mix keh ... pun wont have any problem .....

My engine is currently running at 12:1 CR, RON95 also can use. RON97 gives a lil difference at higher rpm range only (8k above)

Kumpul duit, kumpul duit.. Hehehe.
Who's plan on this bike next??
(just for fun =))) )

Yes bro, I try.. Hahaha TQ.. =)

If follow that table, cars from the 80s will not have suitable petrol to use. That time all carburetor with no management system at CR 9. Lol.

Anyhow, I understand what you have read but I'd say don't worry about it.

today found something interesting. Has been using RON97 with 1.75 turns on pilot air screw. Today try back RON95, feel the engine gets heavier. So try out with 2 turns on pilot air screw. The power is back like RON97 !

This explain something. In typical car ECU, low-mid rpm will use about 14.x AFR, and high rpm will use about 12.x AFR (seen numerous dyno chart on stock cars). Hence, people reporting RON97 gives better power at higher rpm range (due to better utilization of 'rich' setting), while RON95 has a more responsive low rpm feel.

So, using different fuel will need some minor tuning on the carburetor. RON95 needs leaner setup, while RON97 needs richer setup.

This post has been edited by charge-n-go: Mar 5 2015, 01:01 PM

R95 ignites faster than R97. Engine setting must use same fuel all the time.
Some R97 may have higher energy density but minor difference.
When I use R95 and switch brand also need to change like 1/16 of a turn, since I'm using bigger pilot air jet, more sensitive. I use off throttle response and 1/8 throttle RPM to determine carb setup. After optimum I'll normally lean out another 1/16 of a turn.

At high RPM, usually the fuel map will determine the AFR to command. Stock fuel map will command high AFR to burn rich at high RPM, WOT and high engine load, but once throttle is reduced together with engine load the AFR will go up to stoich. Of course that's over simplified.

An example here:


This post has been edited by alexei: Mar 5 2015, 09:32 PM

yup. Shell RON95 needs a bit of adjustments. BHP and Caltex same, as long as they are RON95. bigger difference on RON97.
and nice example u had there. That explains why I had an AF map like this on a recent tuning for the best dyno result (esp high rpm):




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