I am free again, so ciong hei opinion ranting (long post again). Feel free to skip.
My 2 cents for layman (not technical, just casual user) is I roughly evaluate a tint heat performance by putting the back of my hand under the tint in hot sun. How hot is it on the back of my hands. I think most layman do that, no technically accurate at all, really pasar style but.....it worked for most.
Heat will always build up overtime no matter what tint used if park for long hours under hot sun. A good tint slows down the heat penetration thus slows down the heat buildup in the car. A good tints will contribute to heat reduction ON skin while you are in the car with direct noon sunlight shining directly on you. You will feel the heat but you won't feel the painful sting on the skin.
Just an example of how I see a good heat resistance between a good one with a bad one is lets say during the start, the temp is 24 for both tints, after half an hour, a good tint is 28, a bad one 32, 1 hours, a good one 32, a bad 38, 2 hours, a good one 36, bad one cooking at over 40. After 3 hours, both cooking. Of course, the car body also absorb heat and add in the heat. We are just talking about direct heat penetration thru glass that contribute the most heat direct into the car. So if you stay in the car under super hot sun, idling, waiting for half and hour, an hour (did that so many times, wifey go buy stuff), that is where good tints heat resistant effect comes maximum into play, air cond also no need switch so high vs bad or nor no tint. Sunlight no sting on skin, still feel the heat but MUCH lesser vs lousy ones.
So some say not worth to premium ones but for some like me who wants MAXIMUM comfort under hot sun, it is worth it....a bit wasteful tho, I admit the money can be better spend elsewhere but that is how I spend it, no regret on the tints, just regret when I think I can go eat chicken so many times with the money I spend. Some comment, no need good tint, they don't sleep in car....I do...sometimes...hahaha.
That is besides the protection accorded to a good tint UV protection of leather, dashboard, plastic, etc inside the car over the years. I kept my cars for decade or 2, trust me when I say my dashboard still looks very new, practically little to no fading, always parked under hot sun. Also a good tint adds to anti-glare, at least to the Windscreen. Act exactly like the rear view mirror dimmer (some cars have rear view mirror anti-glare) darn cheapo Honda skipped that for most models, so this worked the same except the entire rear Windscreen act like anti-glare dimmer. All these are layman understanding that have no scientific data to backup...but that is how I see it.
Now why I preferred a good metallized tints over ceramic (might not be correct but that is how I generally understand them, in layman term), metalized sputter tints like VKool Elite and Irispro Elite, Diamond and DX series reflect heat. If using silver sputter like VKool and Irispro DX, it has the best metal heat reflection. Ceramic absorb heat and disperse them. The weakness for ceramic (at least IMO), is ceramic worked great while it is moving, the wind will help disperse the heat, so do aircond but heat still get absorbed (some into the car before air-cond disperse them). Metallized sputter reflect some of them (not all lar, just the basic metallized attribute), so while heat still get thru into the car, when compared with ceramic, much less will get into it in the first place (at least on the same quality comparison, again no hard data, just basic understanding).
That is my own layman understanding (might not be accurate but I believe it is generally like that). Of course improvement of nano ceramic tech will upgrade the heat resistance but so do nano metallized sputter improvement. Good metallized sputter are generally more expensive due to the real metal used but also depends on quality of sputter, metal. There are some cheap metallized sputter but I don't trust those coz in general market, good metallized sputter with high quality material and sputter process (some good sputter used 6 micro layers for each metal sputter layer) will definitely cost more to produced. Some do hike up pricing due to brand names (proven reliability tho) but some like Irispro trying to build their brand names and try to penetrate the market with lower pricing (for metallized sputter pricing lar, still even supposedly lowered, it is still darn premium pricing compared to other branded ceramics).
Of course I can't dispute some expert that are into tints or r&D and tried out many tints like dwRK....hehe...If you asked a mechanic, they will always think not worth to buy new car coz they truly understand and know the in and out of it...Same with sardine canner worker, they will likely never eat canned sardine, ever. Haha...
I am no mechanic, so I buy premium tints that I feel worked super great, maximized comfort on what I can afford, keep life simple, just spend money and eat real shit after..hahaha.
Good post. Others may use meters to take readings of tints, but I'm not bothered. People may say it's inaccurate or anything, but I judge based on entering the car and feeling the heat on my face. You have used the back of your hand. Layman way of doing, but it's still useful. The difference is obvious when I enter the car with the Totalgard and another car with Coolgard. The front windscreen is always most important as I judge based on the heat penetrating the front windscreen that's shining on my face. With the Totalgard, it's oven burning hot even though the air-cond is switched on, still need to wait 1+ minute for the whole car to cool down. With Coolgard or V-kool, although it's hot, it's not burning oven hot, still bearable.
Ok I have a meeting soon so can't write too much.
Jun 14 2024, 09:10 AM
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. I just helping lyn member here get better discount . 100% original film / fake film full refund guaranteed. 
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