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PC Audio Altec Lansing Fans Club (approaching 90 members), Sound Leadership For The Digital Age

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MX510	Mar 16 2011, 09:50 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2701
Love Me Sin Hate Me Sinner Senior Member 4,038 posts Joined: Aug 2005 From: Earth	Add me MX5021
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SUSbeggarmaster2000	Mar 17 2011, 12:15 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2702
Regular Senior Member 1,254 posts Joined: Aug 2009	QUOTE(Tim_HKG @ Mar 16 2011, 09:50 PM) Have you ever succeeded in detaching the "black plastic cover from the PCB board? I've found it quite difficult to detach it from the PCB board for having any work at the 5-pin connector. As I'd mentioned before, I'd like to rebuild the independent R & L channels for the satellite speakers firstly. So, under such circumstance, would it possibly be the short cut to bybass it and just soldered wires onto the back of the PCB board as your picture shows? Thanks in advance! heh, no problem. i am just grumpy at times =) black plastik cover thingy is just glued there, unscrew and peel/pry it out.. no problem to put it back. you can be more hard it doesn't break easily. OH YEAH YOU NEED A LONG SCREWDRIVER to unscrew heatsink then only black plastic after removing the black plastic, it is much easier to see what goes where =) happy modding =) This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 17 2011, 12:17 AM
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stan001	Mar 17 2011, 01:31 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2703
On my way Senior Member 623 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Kuala Lumpur	Yeah, last time I also removed the black plastic cover before.. easy to put back.. But actually... why the "hell" the heatsink so damn big one .. is that chip so hot ?? Actually, any idea why are there so so many capacitors for... I tot the circuit is mainly power supply / transformers and the sound chip to amplify the sound with some capacitors to suppress the DC signals and big caps to reverse the power for powerful bass..
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nismo91	Mar 17 2011, 02:23 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2704
foobar2000 Senior Member 2,193 posts Joined: Jan 2007	lol. typical old altec lansing when it comes to heatsink. just see what they did with the ADA885. btw yes they get pretty hot that's why heatsink is needed.
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Tim_HKG	Mar 17 2011, 03:15 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2705
New Member Junior Member 39 posts Joined: Feb 2011	QUOTE(beggarmaster2000 @ Mar 17 2011, 12:15 AM) heh, no problem. i am just grumpy at times =) black plastik cover thingy is just glued there, unscrew and peel/pry it out.. no problem to put it back. you can be more hard it doesn't break easily. OH YEAH YOU NEED A LONG SCREWDRIVER to unscrew heatsink then only black plastic after removing the black plastic, it is much easier to see what goes where =) happy modding =) The big earthquake in Japan did affect the emotion in doing such a time-consuming and quite-useless work like modifications of speakers. Anyhow, this ACS 45.1 is just like Japan, they're heading to a no-return way, just hoping for a better new tomorrow...sigh! This part has been broken up by my violence However, still have to find out the channels to be soldering independent cables for building up the R, L, power on/off, volume +/- connections respectively. Besides, if I'm going to have had all the capacitors replaced, not including those brown and green ones, there are 35 pieces totally, not an easy task! This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 17 2011, 03:34 AM
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GrandReign1978	Mar 17 2011, 03:22 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2706
New Member Junior Member 8 posts Joined: Sep 2007	QUOTE(k_kokkhin @ Jun 3 2006, 08:11 PM) Welcome all altec lansing fans... discuss everything about altec lansing speakers here... official altec lansing website: http://alteclansing.com/ -- moderation: title fixed Altec Lansing Fanz Club Members: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « 1) k_kokkhin -> ada305, mx5021 2) yeah_guyz -> ada 305 3) mdzaboy -> avs500 4) torniquet -> 221 5) skyliner66 -> GT5051 6) kkv2k -> mx5021 7) sevendogz -> ?? 8) cucumber151 -> 221 9) hedfi -> headphone 10) razrv3 -> atp3 11) zeustronic -> 251 12) vervain -> 45.1 13) cklim85 -> ada885 14) eddychstu -> fx6021 15) yrh0413 -> atp3 16) xooper -> Acs 48. Acs 45.1 VS4121, Atp3, Acs 44, and Acs 340 17) thrust -> 45.1 18) yesorno -> mx5021 19) sifeizai -> 4100 20) ceo684 -> ada305 21) tj84 -> mx5021 22) dominant star -> vs4121 23) hafiz267@yahoo.com -> cs21 24) wk1168 -> ada305 25) jackdante22 -> VS2120 26) sukhoi37 -> ATP3, VS4121and AL621 27) guanteik -> 641 28) IvanKang -> vs4121 29) jacklsw86 -> vs4121 30) Nightstalker1993 -> vs4121 31) Allblack -> mx5021 32) r4ydc24 -> 45.1 33) ToGo -> ada885 34) sranua -> 45.1 35) kInOzAwA -> atp3, vs4221, vs4121 36) mdzaboy -> AVS500 37) yorae9 -> ada885 38) takezo88 -> 45.1 39) edison92133 -> vs4121 40) PcWork -> ACS295, atp3 41) jack36 -> atp3 42) jack36 -> vs4121 43) silllver -> 45.1 44) edministrator -> 45.1 45) amrantx3 -> atp3 46) takezo88 -> 45.1 47) blaxez -> atp3 48) zzlanx -> ada880 49) Zach.C -> vs4121 50) steventan85 -> atp3 51) edthrax -> ada890 52) Aquanox28 -> vs4121 53) karhoe -> 45.1 54) syazone -> vs4121 55) gmail -> atp3 56) angelgemini -> ada885 57) narkon -> cs21 58) skod -> ahs310, ada885 59) down_creek -> vs4121 60) asysar_85 - vs4121 modded 61) artakus_acacia > vs4121 62) godek -> mx5021 63) elico -> v4121 64) skydna -> xa3021 65) haylui -> acs45.1 & 4100 66) shinjun -> cs21 67) JY. -> vs4121 68) Faint -> mx5021 69) wills -> AHP10 & 251 70) mango27 -> CS21 71) mnm0139 -> mx5021 72) niceguyming -> MX5021, XA3021 73) climacool -> MX5021 74) wjie20 -> VS4121 75) jianhui -> vs4121 76) hihihehe -> vs4121 77) shift2 -> ada885 78) :+:[J]erR[y]:+: -> VS4121 79) Shalzkasbsp -> 3151R, FX6021, AHS 515 and ATP3 80) mzqee536 -> VS 3151-R 81) coldman86 -> vs4121 82) fo33il -> atp3 83) leroy87 -> ACS45.1, ATP3 84) tang -> atp3 85) HughieRmx -> ADA305 86) isildur88 -> vs4121 87) nazuaf -> ada885, acs45.1 (updated on : 28th June 2007) The solely distributor for Malaysia: Ban Leong Technologies Sdn Bhd Lot 1.09, Level 1, Wisma Academy Jalan 19/1, 46300 Petaling Jaya, Malaysia 603-79566300 603-79565911 Contact: Ms Wang Chin Chin chinchin@banleong.com.my Website: www.banleong.com p/s : PM me for new members or for edit purpose... And as thread starter, i would like to welcome all of you into this Altec Lansing big family... I am still using my reliable ATP5
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power911	Mar 17 2011, 09:09 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2707
Misguided Angel of Death Senior Member 6,513 posts Joined: May 2009 From: I'll follow wherever Tira goes	QUOTE(Tim_HKG @ Mar 17 2011, 03:15 AM) This part has been broken up by my violence mm... this is something I could help... go walk around the store and get yourself a 2-part epoxy and some sort of clamp to hold the broken piece safely... follow the instructions on mixing the glue(a small amount will do) and smear it ONLY on the snapped off leg... stick them together then use the clamp to hold and squeeze it tightly and wait till it dries rules for glue -always use just enough glue -always apply as much pressure as possible on it while it's curing This post has been edited by power911: Mar 17 2011, 09:10 AM
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SUSbeggarmaster2000	Mar 17 2011, 02:53 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2708
Regular Senior Member 1,254 posts Joined: Aug 2009	traced the R/L for you... get yourself one of this... it'll do the rest of the math for you and USE A SUCKER to remove the 5pin thingy powerfilter 10000 cost around 17-18 bucks each do this first! it'll be a noticable stability or use whatever else that rokcs your boat.... to answer your next question.... nope, i triesd. wasting good caps on speakers... use regulars instead..... you can change opamps, but i'll reccomend 4558 stock for this one (counterstrike sound)
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power911	Mar 17 2011, 02:57 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2709
Misguided Angel of Death Senior Member 6,513 posts Joined: May 2009 From: I'll follow wherever Tira goes	lol I love how guns and huge capacitors blend in that well XD
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Tim_HKG	Mar 17 2011, 03:52 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2710
New Member Junior Member 39 posts Joined: Feb 2011	4558? is it LM4558? Could the TDA7370 be replaced by this one without changing the others? Here's the list of the capacitors: 0.1uf 50v x1 0.47uf 50v x5 1uF 50v x3 2.2uf 50v x13 4.7uf 25v x4 10uf 16v x1 47uf 16v x1 100uf 16v x3 220uf 16v x1 1000uf 16v x2 10000uF 50v x1 So, which of the above capacitors should have been changed in order to have the best result? And, what will be the best uf, v for those capacitors I'm going to buy? Thanks in advance! This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 17 2011, 03:57 PM
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SUSbeggarmaster2000	Mar 17 2011, 09:18 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2711
Regular Senior Member 1,254 posts Joined: Aug 2009	4558 is the eight leg square... don't bother changing anything else, not value for money 16v and above... for all... depends on your pocket.... and availability for best result, change to a reputable brand. badcaps.net for reference what is good or bad 10000uf first (stability)RM17-18 1000uf to 2200uf (sats have better range) RM1 each 220uf (sub sound stability) 2.2uf and 1uf for signal path (clarity and punchier bass) my advice for practical best results. you should actually change all the cables (internal and external) before changing components inside =) also, it has the best value for money mod. it takes some time to burn-in. so the cables might make your set sound strange when newly changed AND DON'T SAY I DIDN'T WARN YOU THAT ALTEC TRACE COMES OFF EASILY careful, desoldering the parts out... use a sucker! This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 17 2011, 09:24 PM
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stan001	Mar 17 2011, 09:42 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2712
On my way Senior Member 623 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Kuala Lumpur	What the gun for ? The 10,000 uF, can use 10 x 1000uF wired in parallel on a perf board instead ? Cheaper mah... hehe Is the 10,000 uF for power reverse when suddenly needed high power for bass purpose ??
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kaoru	Mar 17 2011, 10:15 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2713
Casual Junior Member 353 posts Joined: Dec 2004	interested in MX5021 , how much is it now, where to get
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power911	Mar 17 2011, 10:22 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2714
Misguided Angel of Death Senior Member 6,513 posts Joined: May 2009 From: I'll follow wherever Tira goes	QUOTE(kaoru @ Mar 17 2011, 10:15 PM) interested in MX5021 , how much is it now, where to get discontinued model... you can get second hand mx5021 if you can find them good luck
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SUSbeggarmaster2000	Mar 17 2011, 11:36 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2715
Regular Senior Member 1,254 posts Joined: Aug 2009	10x1000uf small bird bass can lar.... when suck power big bass come that time mar BZZzztbrakc brack sound and smoke
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Tim_HKG	Mar 18 2011, 05:15 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2716
New Member Junior Member 39 posts Joined: Feb 2011	QUOTE(beggarmaster2000 @ Mar 17 2011, 09:18 PM) 4558 is the eight leg square... don't bother changing anything else, not value for money 16v and above... for all... depends on your pocket.... and availability for best result, change to a reputable brand. badcaps.net for reference what is good or bad 10000uf first (stability)RM17-18 1000uf to 2200uf (sats have better range) RM1 each 220uf (sub sound stability) 2.2uf and 1uf for signal path (clarity and punchier bass) my advice for practical best results. you should actually change all the cables (internal and external) before changing components inside =) also, it has the best value for money mod. it takes some time to burn-in. so the cables might make your set sound strange when newly changed AND DON'T SAY I DIDN'T WARN YOU THAT ALTEC TRACE COMES OFF EASILY careful, desoldering the parts out... use a sucker! Since I'm going to solder some wires onto them, do you have the full idea of what are these soldering points stand for? For examples, the +/- of the R&L speakers' wires, the power on/off wires, the volume +/- wires. Thanks in advance!
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SUSbeggarmaster2000	Mar 18 2011, 06:51 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2717
Regular Senior Member 1,254 posts Joined: Aug 2009	gRRrrRRRRrrr don't ask me if it blows up =) This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 18 2011, 06:56 PM
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nismo91	Mar 18 2011, 07:36 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2718
foobar2000 Senior Member 2,193 posts Joined: Jan 2007	why dont you pull of the right speakers directly? below the buttons there are digital circuits thats controls the volume and also have output for both left and right speakers. you can take it from there safely. (ACS 45.1)
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Tim_HKG	Mar 19 2011, 09:03 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2719
New Member Junior Member 39 posts Joined: Feb 2011	The 5-pin female connector from the pcb board has been removed, and another 5-pin male connector from the right-satellite speaker cut off too, it's really a no-return way! I did not dare to power on it yet, put it for your eyes first! This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 19 2011, 09:04 PM
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stan001	Mar 19 2011, 09:44 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #2720
On my way Senior Member 623 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Kuala Lumpur	Pls use the multimeter beeper / connectivity tester to check for short circuits...
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