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PC Audio Altec Lansing Fans Club (approaching 90 members), Sound Leadership For The Digital Age

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stan001
post Feb 27 2011, 12:01 AM

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hehe, another fellow hv the same crazy idea like me..

If you open the right speaker, you should be able to identify the L& R signal cable...

The right goes to the speaker and the left is the cable going out to the 3.5mm socket...

The other 3 cables.. I hv not trace them back to the PCB yet..

Do share if you discovered anything...


power911
post Feb 27 2011, 12:11 AM

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got pics to share? I wanna see biggrin.gif
SUSbeggarmaster2000
post Feb 27 2011, 02:51 AM

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Attached Image
have fun =)
Attached Image

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Feb 27 2011, 03:00 AM
power911
post Feb 27 2011, 02:54 PM

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oh lol that I know XD
capacitor pernah tengok d tongue.gif

I wanna see the sats hacked
Tim_HKG
post Feb 27 2011, 11:27 PM

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No idea of how to making independent sockets and buttons for the wires inside the 5-pin cable respectively. Perhaps the pictures below would be another alternative, or simply just an external box, but maybe they're too powerful for ACS 45.1!

user posted image
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Feb 27 2011, 11:38 PM
stan001
post Feb 28 2011, 02:39 AM

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What board are those ?

They look so cool in red PCB...


SUSbeggarmaster2000
post Feb 28 2011, 11:14 PM

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altecs use 4ohms driver... i don't think its suitable for those amps above.... try class D amp
power911
post Feb 28 2011, 11:22 PM

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QUOTE(beggarmaster2000 @ Feb 28 2011, 11:14 PM)
altecs use 4ohms driver... i don't think its suitable for those amps above.... try class D amp
*
hmm,why eh?
SUSbeggarmaster2000
post Feb 28 2011, 11:46 PM

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you don't just put monster tayar on your on your kancil?
if at this rate you going... its gonna be a franken shitz at the end
pair it correctly mar
stkong
post Mar 1 2011, 01:48 PM

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QUOTE(wongpeter @ Feb 16 2011, 12:11 PM)
sounds like a dry joint/loose connection issue esp if it starts working after you have given it a few thumps, whacks or kicks! tongue.gif
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QUOTE(power911 @ Feb 16 2011, 12:17 PM)
agree whistling.gif

if you got soldering skills... you can refresh those dry solder and it'll work
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QUOTE(stan001 @ Feb 19 2011, 12:33 PM)
I open up the satellite speakers, there is just the speaker itself with 2 push buttons for on/off & volume control and wires to left & right speakers..

You case is like my case previously... the subwoofer "sometimes" works and "sometimes" no subwoofer sound at all..

After I took a high resolution pic of the PCB front & back and posted here, bm2000 pointed out to me that the solder joint is broken on the amp chip, probably due to the fact that the chip is on the large heatsink and the large heatsink is being vibrated by the subwoofer for the past 10 years...

Anything being vibrated for long period, surely those solder joint all lose and give u intermitted connections..
Pls post yr picture here, hope bm2000 sharp eyes can help to spot the dry solder joint..
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guys, thanks for your information. Anyway, after the 1st time tried i was failed. doh.gif However, still not giving up just before send the things out for repair and give it another try on last Saturday. I tried to refresh almost all the solder points on the woofer's board, and the result if fail again. cry.gif Then i start target the satellite, open up and look so closely yet found nothing wrong. Since the tools all still on the desk and hot, just refresh the solder points too... who knows it works perfectly now.

Thank you very much for the information. U guys are the best! cool.gif cool.gif thumbup.gif thumbup.gif rclxms.gif rclxms.gif
stan001
post Mar 1 2011, 06:15 PM

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QUOTE(stkong @ Mar 1 2011, 01:48 PM)
guys, thanks for your information.  Anyway, after the 1st time tried i was failed. doh.gif   However, still not giving up just before send the things out for repair and give it another try on last Saturday.  I tried to refresh almost all the solder points on the woofer's board, and the result if fail again. cry.gif  Then i start target the satellite, open up and look so closely yet found nothing wrong.  Since the tools all still on the desk and hot, just refresh the solder points too... who knows it works perfectly now.

Thank you very much for the information. U guys are the best! cool.gif  cool.gif  thumbup.gif  thumbup.gif  rclxms.gif  rclxms.gif
*
rclxms.gif rclxms.gif Another ACS 45.1 revived !!!!


Added on March 1, 2011, 6:17 pm
QUOTE(beggarmaster2000 @ Feb 28 2011, 11:46 PM)
you don't just put monster tayar on your on your kancil?
if at this rate you going... its gonna be a franken shitz at the end
pair it correctly mar
*
Yeah.. no need to put another amp just into a PC speaker amp ... overkill solution..

We wanna mod & hacked it ... not make it into a monster... haha





This post has been edited by stan001: Mar 1 2011, 06:17 PM
KSDigital
post Mar 2 2011, 09:23 PM

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hello, im looking for a speaker, currently im using SAMSON studio dock 4i, music sounds incredible, but not good for gaming, bass too small.

I went to All IT give altec lansing IMT800 boombox a test with my ipod, i feel the sound is great too, and rich in bass, anybody can tell me is MX6021 any better than this boombox? can this boombox serve as PC speaker instead of just ipod speaker?

my requirement is superb sound clarity, good quality bass (no super loud bass).

This post has been edited by KSDigital: Mar 2 2011, 09:26 PM
power911
post Mar 2 2011, 09:27 PM

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QUOTE(KSDigital @ Mar 2 2011, 09:23 PM)
hello, im looking for a speaker, currently im using SAMSON studio dock 4i, music sounds incredible, but not good for gaming, bass too small.

I went to All IT give altec lansing IMT800 boombox a test with my ipod, i feel the sound is great too, and rich in bass, anybody can tell me is MX6021 any better than this boombox? can this boombox serve as PC speaker instead of just ipod speaker?
*
you can connect the boombox to your computer through AUX in smile.gif (or RCA in? I dunno)

it would be great but how are you gonna place it for your computer?

placing them behind your computer screen will block the sound.
placing them in front will bother the table too much.

space matters whistling.gif

the MX6021 is as amazing as this boombox smile.gif
Merlin23
post Mar 5 2011, 11:51 PM

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I posted in the main audio forum but think I might get more help here so...

I recently acquired some old Altec Lansing speakers... a pair of ACS31's with a subwoofer and a pair of ACS52's, along with two power bricks and a bunch of cables. But I can't find any manuals on the internet so I don't know which adapter goes with which pair of speakers.

I got one white adapter and one bigger black adapter, neither of which indicate which pair of speakers they goes with.

It may not matter but the adapters are quite different so I want to use the right one.

Can anyone help me out?

TIA
stan001
post Mar 6 2011, 05:23 PM

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A picture tells a thousand words...

Pictures and specs would be good info...

It is just speakers, cables and power supply, shouldn't be too complex to figure it out...


SUSbeggarmaster2000
post Mar 7 2011, 11:31 PM

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you probably not using the original power brick....
since the speakers so small, there shouldn't be an issue... just whack whatever....but if you are anal, the power ratings and voltages is indicated on the rear cover of the speaker itself, go figure which is the closest match =)
Tim_HKG
post Mar 8 2011, 01:48 AM

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QUOTE(stan001 @ Feb 28 2011, 02:39 AM)
What board are those ?

They look so cool in red PCB...
*
LM3866、TDA7293/4、LM1875、LM4766...so many choices! Either in the form of the pictures I'd posted up before or in this way!

user posted image

However, they're just too powerful for the 4 ohm speaker drivers of ACS 45.1 as the sellers said...sigh!


Added on March 8, 2011, 1:55 am
QUOTE(beggarmaster2000 @ Feb 27 2011, 02:51 AM)
Attached Image
have fun =)
Attached Image
*
For me, a newbie, would like to seperate the 5-pin socket which includes R, L, subwoofer, volume on/off, volume +/- into independent channels respestively. With that, I could have had all the poor-quality cables & wires changed, then some capacitors replaced. Unfortunately, still have no idea of how to seperate this 5-pin socket into independent channels! Could you tell with more pictures?

Besides, could you help me figuring out which of the capacitors should be replaced at least in order to have much more "clear signals" and "clear sound", and the specifications of the maximum V, UF for those capacitors I should buy.

Thanks in advance!

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 8 2011, 03:14 AM
SUSbeggarmaster2000
post Mar 8 2011, 08:45 PM

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hmmnn i don't have batteries in my camara right nao... =) need to go buy some laters... but you can easily trace the connections to respective end easily, first remove the original 5pin and solder your own cables to higher quality connectors... there is only 4 wires (including common ground) leading to volume micro switches and LED the other 2 L-R and also a common ground.

for CHEAP and good caps upgrade, go for Elna(bright sound) Panasonic (nice and cheap punchy bass) in the signal path(mostly 1uf and 2.2uf caps)
upgrade the 1000uf to 2200uf. change the power filters to nippon chemicon or panasonics for better stability, warmer bass and better volume control(10 000uf and 100uf)
don't worry about voltage in this set as long as you don't use lower than 16v

add the pics later i'm just got home nao =)
power911
post Mar 8 2011, 08:49 PM

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I always wonder where to get these Elna and Panasonic caps
maybe more Panasonic... I wanna improve my NAD amp XD
samosa
post Mar 12 2011, 10:39 AM

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hi, i have an altec lansing atp3, sadly the connection to the 7 pin wire to the right speaker is kinda loose.

so, i did take out the 7 pin connector and chopped the right speakers connector.

question is, where does this wire go to on the circuit board? i've been doing this for so long without a solution. help!

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