How to seperate the "R" & "L" speaker wires, power-controlling wires from the all-in-one 5-pin cable of Altec Lansing ACS 45.1? I'd really want to make them all independent as the initial modification. Thanks in advance!

No idea of how to making independent sockets and buttons for the wires inside the 5-pin cable respectively. Perhaps the pictures below would be another alternative, or simply just an external box, but maybe they're too powerful for ACS 45.1!








This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Feb 27 2011, 11:38 PM

LM3866、TDA7293/4、LM1875、LM4766...so many choices! Either in the form of the pictures I'd posted up before or in this way！



However, they're just too powerful for the 4 ohm speaker drivers of ACS 45.1 as the sellers said...sigh!

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Added on March 8, 2011, 1:55 amFor me, a newbie, would like to seperate the 5-pin socket which includes R, L, subwoofer, volume on/off, volume +/- into independent channels respestively. With that, I could have had all the poor-quality cables & wires changed, then some capacitors replaced. Unfortunately, still have no idea of how to seperate this 5-pin socket into independent channels! Could you tell with more pictures?

Besides, could you help me figuring out which of the capacitors should be replaced at least in order to have much more "clear signals" and "clear sound", and the specifications of the maximum V, UF for those capacitors I should buy.

Thanks in advance!

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 8 2011, 03:14 AM

Here's my ACS 45.1



Sorry for bothering you again, since I've already taken out the whole set of stuff from the subwoofer and stepped into the no-return way to the modifications of my ACS 45.1!

Have you ever succeeded in detaching the "black plastic cover from the PCB board? I've found it quite difficult to detach it from the PCB board for having any work at the 5-pin connector.

As I'd mentioned before, I'd like to rebuild the independent R & L channels for the satellite speakers firstly. So, under such circumstance, would it possibly be the short cut to bybass it and just soldered wires onto the back of the PCB board as your picture shows?


Thanks in advance!

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 16 2011, 09:52 PM

The big earthquake in Japan did affect the emotion in doing such a time-consuming and quite-useless work like modifications of speakers. Anyhow, this ACS 45.1 is just like Japan, they're heading to a no-return way, just hoping for a better new tomorrow...sigh!

This part has been broken up by my violence




However, still have to find out the channels to be soldering independent cables for building up the R, L, power on/off, volume +/- connections respectively.

Besides, if I'm going to have had all the capacitors replaced, not including those brown and green ones, there are 35 pieces totally, not an easy task!

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 17 2011, 03:34 AM

4558? is it LM4558? Could the TDA7370 be replaced by this one without changing the others?

Here's the list of the capacitors:
0.1uf 50v x1
0.47uf 50v x5
1uF 50v x3
2.2uf 50v x13
4.7uf 25v x4
10uf 16v x1
47uf 16v x1
100uf 16v x3
220uf 16v x1
1000uf 16v x2
10000uF 50v x1

So, which of the above capacitors should have been changed in order to have the best result? And, what will be the best uf, v for those capacitors I'm going to buy?

Thanks in advance!

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 17 2011, 03:57 PM

Since I'm going to solder some wires onto them, do you have the full idea of what are these soldering points stand for? For examples, the +/- of the R&L speakers' wires, the power on/off wires, the volume +/- wires.



Thanks in advance!

The 5-pin female connector from the pcb board has been removed, and another 5-pin male connector from the right-satellite speaker cut off too, it's really a no-return way!

I did not dare to power on it yet, put it for your eyes first!





This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 19 2011, 09:04 PM

I don't have such tools, by the way, I'm just a copycat of the information provided by beggarmaster2000...shame!

The 4 wires(I guess they're power on/off, power led, volume +/-) soldered onto the pcb board was originated from the 5-pin cable comes off from the right satellite speaker, so does it mean it has the same kind of signal? While the other two wires soldered on the pcb board are for independent R&L satellite speakers, to be connected to new connectors.

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 19 2011, 11:29 PM

After the first soldering job, I did power on it, fortunately no explosion! Without the heatsink attacted(quite dangerous?), I tested the R&L channels individually with just one satellite speaker, subwoofer not yet tested, IT SOUNDS, though seems not louder than before(weird?)!

Tonight, I re-soldered all the power-controlled wires connected on the pcb from downside to upside in order to make them coming out through the black plastic cover more easily, and changed the R&L internal speaker cables from copper to silver-material wires.

I haven't tested it again yet, and have it re-assembled to this stage as the pictures showed, hope it will work as before!

No matter it'll whether work again, I'd like to thank all the people here, especially "beggarmaster2000"! To your question, it's worthy of having a new account registered here, without doing it, I wouldn't have obtained the information from you. Thank you!

Very tired and haven't had my late late dinner yet, needed to take a break and have something to eat!







This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 22 2011, 12:48 PM

My ACS 45.1 is equipped with this kind of power cord, no ground wire? How can I change it to a standard and better power cord? To where will the ground wire be connected? Thanks in advance!

No such logo was found on the power cord, it doesn't matter! Anyhow, thank you!

Just came back with the new wires bought, need to get back to the final stage of the 1st-phase modification, report later!

Oh master, please don't let me be misunderstood(grin)! I do really want to inprove the sound quality rather than its appearance!

By the way, the 1st-phase modification has just been roughly COMPLETED, now just figuring out should I change the speaker connectors to another kind, and also the power cord.



About the replacement of capacitors, actually I have had nearly all the capacitors bought even before the modification started. One of the shops' boss did find me some Elna, Rubycon, Black Gate..., but they are just too big in size, out of my soldering skill level! While another shop selling cheaper ones succeeded in getting almost all of them for me.



From tomorrow on, I'll start listening to it, noticing what's the main change of the sound quality, and will proceed to the 2nd-phase modification, replacement of the capacitors later. However, more than 40 pieces needed to be replaced, not an easy soldering task for an unskilled man like me! How long does it take for me?

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 24 2011, 03:38 AM

Here's the list of the capacitors:
0.1uf 50v x1
0.47uf 50v x5
1uF 50v x3
2.2uf 50v x13
4.7uf 25v x4
10uf 16v x1
47uf 16v x1
100uf 16v x3
220uf 16v x1
1000uf 16v x2
10000uF 50v x1

So what is your recommendation? All ELNA? It's quite difficult to find all of them from the list, then which of them are the most important ones to buy first? Besides, I did notice there's red and black colours of ELNA, which is better? Thank you!

Sorry for bothering you again, do you know the exact names & specifications of the things squared with red & yellow colours? To save time, I'd like to have them replaced as well as other capacitors. Thanks in advance!

To: beggarmaster2000

Since I'm going to confirm the order for some ELNA's caps later today, I did remember last time you'd suggested me replacing the 1000uF caps with 2200uF caps.

So can you tell me what will be the advantages & disadvantages of doing that? Thanks in advance!

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 29 2011, 01:32 PM

Though it's too technical for me to understand, really thank you!

Besides, there's one 0.1uF 50V on my order list, I picked this one, also states 0.1uF 50V, but don't know whether it suits due to its relatively strange appearance. Is it just the same kind of caps? Thanks in advance!

A new set of caps has just arrived, I'll follow your instruction, change them in order, from the biggest uF down to the smallest value.

mail order from China.

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Added on April 2, 2011, 11:32 pmThank you so much! However, I don't even know their names & values for the purchase...shame!

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 2 2011, 11:32 PM

Yes, you're right! It needs to take some times to search and learn for a newbie like me, to look before leap. Thank you!


Yes, Mainland China is famous for her fake and imitation goods. Though I did pick the shop who has asked for relatively higher prices, and also comparatively those models in higher prices too, I do still have no idea of whether they are genuine or fake!

Perhaps you may take a look on them, I couldn't justify their genuineness!




Besides, is the bigger red one really 0.1uF 50V and could be used to replace the stock one? And, is this bigger red one better than the other smaller one?


This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 5 2011, 10:07 PM