If you are asking for help, pls post some clear pictures of yr circuit board and the 7 pin wire you mentioned..

At times, words can't really explain what you are trying to ask..

VS4621 user reporting!

satisfied with the bass!

heh, most of them are babies. they expect us to spoonfeed yhem immediately witout doing homework.

=) most don't even turn up when after request filled
best part about it is not even a thank you 90% of the time haha
unless you are following thread, don't request =)

ACS45.1 controls... trace the wires back to your board.. according to color

the thick RED, GREEN and BLACK is speaker right,left and ground

ATP3 has new version and old version, this is the new (cut cost) version.

yes, nao you just trace the wires back to the board using a multitester or batteries with led/lightbulb

desolder the 7pin thingy out first, attach it back to the plug, cut the wires, trace each wire color to destination

heh, grumpy. needed to open my sets up for you all. get your own pics next time!! =D

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 14 2011, 03:05 PM

Just wondering why Altec Lansing does not produce those high end speakers anymore. Maybe some 7.1 or 5.1 THX stuff like all those other crappy Creative speakers do.

cuz the new Altec Boss now loves to use cut cost parts right now

This post has been edited by power911: Mar 15 2011, 09:42 PM

rumors said after plantronics bought it, the long awaited HMX7051 plan was cancelled. it was supposed to sweep the Z5500, PM5.1 Ultra and Creative S750 with its 400W subwoofer - 10inch. digital decoder with USB, 2x optical and 1x coaxial. awesome. Press Release





- Serious volume! - 650 watt of continuous system power (RMS)
- THX Certified, Dolby Digital 5.1, DTS-Certifiable cinema quality sound.
- Massive Subwoofer - Feel the exceptional low-requency bass from a 10" front-firing woofer
- Easy to Use and Configure - Full-featured wireless remote and elegant on-screen user interface
Product Specifications

- Total Continuous Power: 650 Watts RMS
- Center and Satellite Speakers: 50 Watts per channel
- Subwoofer: 400 Watts
- Sound Pressure Level (SPL) 115 dB
- System Response: 25Hz - 20kHz (-10dB)
- Drivers Per Speaker: Two 3" midrange drivers and one 1" tweeter
- Subwoofer Driver: One 10" long-throw woofer

now don't even think about it.

This post has been edited by nismo91: Mar 15 2011, 09:49 PM

THAT'S KOOL!!!
But why cancelled?
dang... if given a lil more time, this baby would be out blasting in no time

oh well

This post has been edited by power911: Mar 15 2011, 09:54 PM

the news is released at March 2005. it was suppose to be available around May / June 2005. but at 11 July 2005 no such product exist, and Plantronics bought Altec Lansing for $166m.

so many guesses that due to the acquisition, the project was cancelled, as it was too expensive too manufacture. beside, 400W of subwoofer and no external heatsink? my 60W sub from ADA885 already get very hot even in standby that I put a small fan to cool it.

on top of that, in late 2009 it was announced that Plantronics sold AL for $18m to prophet equity. no wonder during Plantronics' time products become worse.

seriously, 1x USB, 1X coaxial, 2X optical and 2X analog... true high end PC speakers in 2005, well, even now!

This post has been edited by nismo91: Mar 15 2011, 10:10 PM

Thanks for the insight about AL ... this always happens to really good companies in the wrong hands... wrong decision.. wrong products..

But I think for a PC Multimedia speakers (that what they were called.. but I always hated the word multimedia...totally overused ), 650W could be too high price to pay ... ppl could just jump into some low end hifi stuff... unless it was priced very competitively..

fans will still buy them no matter how ridiculously priced they are...
look at Beats by Dre headphones... dayum~


oh... maybe that huge subwoofer had amazing tech behind it to cool down the amp? watercooling maybe?
some of the reasons why they delayed the release date so long till plantronics bought them and abandon the project because they think it's impossible to do so?


man... if these were out, Imma get them

erm jz wanna ask...im using MX5021 now...are there any ways to remove the netting on the speakers? there shudnt be much use rite?

i agree. especially during that time (2005), not so many techie stuff available like now. spending $500 speakers may not be reasonable for alot of people, even though it has top notch function and sound. if it is released now, i think there would be more people buying than 5 years ago.

you need to remove the fascia and cut from the inside. but then the glossy acrylic will be exposed and have lots of scratches.

dam...the only way is to cut then..?

satellites can try to unscrew the screws from the rear. for subwoofer try to pull the front plastic fascia. usually a small flathead screwdriver can help can dent the sides.

this is actually not bad for those who have white MX5021 which the nets become yellowish after some time.

OMG! loooks tempting wei!

pls... try your best to forget about this beauty T_T

haha come on guys... it's been out since 2005... i've been wondering why no AL fans posted it over here... oh well the thread was started in 2006...

lols sad... I wasn't a fan till 2010 XD

lucky me... If I was a fan back then I will suffer

hi guys,

i owned VS4121 with jumpy volume problem
im seeking for help from you gentlemen how to fix this problem
might be this issue has been discussed previously


thanks

Here's my ACS 45.1



Sorry for bothering you again, since I've already taken out the whole set of stuff from the subwoofer and stepped into the no-return way to the modifications of my ACS 45.1!

Have you ever succeeded in detaching the "black plastic cover from the PCB board? I've found it quite difficult to detach it from the PCB board for having any work at the 5-pin connector.

As I'd mentioned before, I'd like to rebuild the independent R & L channels for the satellite speakers firstly. So, under such circumstance, would it possibly be the short cut to bybass it and just soldered wires onto the back of the PCB board as your picture shows?


Thanks in advance!

This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Mar 16 2011, 09:52 PM